Guys,
I have been receiving on a daily basis questions regarding the Royal Oaks (and other models and brands) and so I am starting this FAQ thread which I feel can be useful for the newer guys starting out on AP and/or is interested to get a rep Royal Oak. Remember though this is my opinion, so please feel free to make your own observations and conclusions. I do not intend this to be definitive, but I hope to save some time replying to PMs for repeated questions. So here you go, in no particular order, are the questions I receive frequently and my replies to them.
1. What AP Royal Oak do you recommend?
I will recommend either the APSF/ZF 15500, the APSF 15400, and the ZF15202. The new APSF 15450 has potential as a quality rep too.
2. If you can only choose one, which Royal Oak will you purchase and why?
I will choose the APSF 15500. Either black or blue dial. I like the clone 4302 movement, the instant date change and the overall appearance of the watch.
3. Is there such thing as a 1:1 AP Royal Oak replica?
No there isn't. But haven't said that, majority of the differences are academic and evident in pics on the forum rather than real life. Remember that rep watches should always be accompanied by gen attitude.
4. What mods do you recommend?
Strictly speaking, mods are NOT necessary but the following could be beneficial for the discerning owner to improve their watches over the factory replica watches:
- Service and regulation, for reliability of movement
- Dial refinish, to improve the finish and texture of the dial visually over stock. It does NOT change the tapisseries construction vs gen obviously.
- Bevel and polish case and bracelet edges (to define the bevels in the case and bracelet edges, to give the bevels a high mirror polish and to make the inner edges softer and more comfortable to wear
- Alignment (lateral and vertical) and polish of bezel screws, where necessary. Not every watch needs it.
- Rebrush of watch to gen spec: Again, not every watch needs it. Some watches come well-finished. Others sometimes come in a finish which is too satin. I have also seen "over brushed" watches done by modders. There is a specific finish employed by AP and this is defined by a range and not a specific one. Even between batches on gens, the differences in finish are evident, but I own, and have seen enough Royal Oaks to know what is and isn't AP.
- waterproof and pressuretest: This is self-explanatory for most
- Cleaning and refinish of markers, logo and hands: There is no need to replate the rep markers and hands in Rhodium, but a cleaning and light polish will bring that extra sheen to the markers and hands.
- Alignment of logo, markers, self-explanatory and when needed
- Alignment of datewheel, to center the date as much as possible, but given the movement/datewheel print and alignment tolerance the date may not always end up dead center.
- Smoothen the winding for the "close to gen feel" especially for the 4302. The gen winding for this caliber is very smooth and refined.
- Of course, where possible, an array of gen parts like dials, hands, bezels, datewheels etc can be added to the watch to improve the aesthetics and reliability
5. Can the ZF15202 be thinned to 8.1mm as per gen?
Yes it can.
6. Are gen bracelets sharp?
Not always but they can be at times. They vary from watch to watch.
7. Are the Royal Oak replicas in general indistinguishable from gen on the wrist in real life?
For me yes. The wearer attitude makes the most difference. Think about it, we are talking details being crammed into 40-50mm of space in real life. If anyone cares to scrutinize your watch to check for flaws, it is either he is a replica watch enthusiast or owner, OR your attitude is not convincing enough. You cannot control the former but you can definitely work on the latter.
8. Are gen hands needed for the Royal Oak reps in general?
For the 15202, I will recommend them if the owner desires visual accuracy, but no for the 15500, or latest APSF 15400. They are good as they come and perhaps just need that cleaning and refinish.
9. Is the Miyota 9015 used in a lot of Royal Oak replicas reliable?
Yes in general, but they sound like tin cans filled with coffee beans when shaken, and the hairspring is prone to entanglement. They are however easy to silence, and maintain. The Miyota 9015 is a sensible movement choice for Royal Oak replicas.
10. Is the clone 4302 movement reliable?
Yes in general but I will recommend a service within 6 months of receiving the watch, as there is always invariably dirt/grit in the movement, or it could be dry or have parts misaligned. Letting the watch run extensively under these non-optimal states could (but not always) lead to more serious issues for the movement.
11. Do the factory watches come waterproofed?
Toss a coin for this one, but in general, yes they are good for handwashing and rain showers. If you intend to swim with them in the swimming pool, at least get it pressuretested. If you intend to swim with it in the sea, you are on your own. Even if pressuretested, the gaskets may or may not hold up to prolonged exposure to the corrosive salts in the sea water.
12. How rude can you get, really? (and its endless variations)
It all depends but I try not to be whenever approached. What you perceive as rude may be subjective.
13. If I drop the watch, what do I have to do to remedy it
After you are done blaming yourself and the concrete floor, understand that any drop more than 30cm will warrant at least a realignment and regulation of the parts. Check and note the impact area for damage, try to show your watchsmith or modder the damages and after placing the blame on the family dog or reckless cyclist, get it sorted out calmly. Do not fret, what is done is done. Be thankful that it is not a gen.
14. Which dial color is the best typically? (15500, 15400, 15450)
Typically black is closest. Blue for the 15500 has potential. Grey is typically off for all models and silver is good for the old JF 15450 and 15400 but too matte for the 15500.
15. Can gen dials be fitted into the replica Royal Oaks
Yes for the 15500, 15400, 15450, 15202, 15300, 67650 (these are what I have worked on for gen dials)
One thing to note that is that for miyotas, the dial feet will need to be clipped. For clone movements, the feet and movement groove alignments may sometimes be off. Adjustments may be needed or one or both dial feet clipped. But yes gen dials will fit.
16. Can I wear my replica Royal Oak to a gen watch gathering/the brand boutique/to my grandmother's house/to meet the President/to a social event without getting called out?
Yes you can possibly. But you will always know that it is a rep, and the mental deterrence works more strongly than any social "call outs" IMHO. My advice is not to do so when there is a chance that someone will focus on the watch and ask to see it off the wrist. As a mark of respect, please do not wear it to the AP boutique as well. You can, but please try not to.
17. Are the crystals on the replica Royal Oaks in general good enough?
IMHO yes they are. Gens have single AR crystals (or no AR for the vintage models). The rep crystals are good enough for me.
18. I have $500 to spend. What should I do with the watch to improve it?
Fold the bills and stick the $500 out of your front pocket. Buy confidence and then wear the watch as it is.
19. Is it really true that the gen steel Royal Oak cases are made from 316 steel, like the rep?
Yes and no. The gens and reps are both made from 316 steel but they have slight variations in the metal composition (from the color which are at times visible) and the finish. Needless to the say the gen finish is a lot more refined.
20. How is the lume on the replica Royal Oaks?
The gen Royal Oaks are not known for strong or long lasting lume. They work sufficiently well and you will forget about the lume faster than the lume fades. The rep lume is consistent with the gen. These are not Panerai. So don't worry about the lume.
I have been receiving on a daily basis questions regarding the Royal Oaks (and other models and brands) and so I am starting this FAQ thread which I feel can be useful for the newer guys starting out on AP and/or is interested to get a rep Royal Oak. Remember though this is my opinion, so please feel free to make your own observations and conclusions. I do not intend this to be definitive, but I hope to save some time replying to PMs for repeated questions. So here you go, in no particular order, are the questions I receive frequently and my replies to them.
1. What AP Royal Oak do you recommend?
I will recommend either the APSF/ZF 15500, the APSF 15400, and the ZF15202. The new APSF 15450 has potential as a quality rep too.
2. If you can only choose one, which Royal Oak will you purchase and why?
I will choose the APSF 15500. Either black or blue dial. I like the clone 4302 movement, the instant date change and the overall appearance of the watch.
3. Is there such thing as a 1:1 AP Royal Oak replica?
No there isn't. But haven't said that, majority of the differences are academic and evident in pics on the forum rather than real life. Remember that rep watches should always be accompanied by gen attitude.
4. What mods do you recommend?
Strictly speaking, mods are NOT necessary but the following could be beneficial for the discerning owner to improve their watches over the factory replica watches:
- Service and regulation, for reliability of movement
- Dial refinish, to improve the finish and texture of the dial visually over stock. It does NOT change the tapisseries construction vs gen obviously.
- Bevel and polish case and bracelet edges (to define the bevels in the case and bracelet edges, to give the bevels a high mirror polish and to make the inner edges softer and more comfortable to wear
- Alignment (lateral and vertical) and polish of bezel screws, where necessary. Not every watch needs it.
- Rebrush of watch to gen spec: Again, not every watch needs it. Some watches come well-finished. Others sometimes come in a finish which is too satin. I have also seen "over brushed" watches done by modders. There is a specific finish employed by AP and this is defined by a range and not a specific one. Even between batches on gens, the differences in finish are evident, but I own, and have seen enough Royal Oaks to know what is and isn't AP.
- waterproof and pressuretest: This is self-explanatory for most
- Cleaning and refinish of markers, logo and hands: There is no need to replate the rep markers and hands in Rhodium, but a cleaning and light polish will bring that extra sheen to the markers and hands.
- Alignment of logo, markers, self-explanatory and when needed
- Alignment of datewheel, to center the date as much as possible, but given the movement/datewheel print and alignment tolerance the date may not always end up dead center.
- Smoothen the winding for the "close to gen feel" especially for the 4302. The gen winding for this caliber is very smooth and refined.
- Of course, where possible, an array of gen parts like dials, hands, bezels, datewheels etc can be added to the watch to improve the aesthetics and reliability
5. Can the ZF15202 be thinned to 8.1mm as per gen?
Yes it can.
6. Are gen bracelets sharp?
Not always but they can be at times. They vary from watch to watch.
7. Are the Royal Oak replicas in general indistinguishable from gen on the wrist in real life?
For me yes. The wearer attitude makes the most difference. Think about it, we are talking details being crammed into 40-50mm of space in real life. If anyone cares to scrutinize your watch to check for flaws, it is either he is a replica watch enthusiast or owner, OR your attitude is not convincing enough. You cannot control the former but you can definitely work on the latter.
8. Are gen hands needed for the Royal Oak reps in general?
For the 15202, I will recommend them if the owner desires visual accuracy, but no for the 15500, or latest APSF 15400. They are good as they come and perhaps just need that cleaning and refinish.
9. Is the Miyota 9015 used in a lot of Royal Oak replicas reliable?
Yes in general, but they sound like tin cans filled with coffee beans when shaken, and the hairspring is prone to entanglement. They are however easy to silence, and maintain. The Miyota 9015 is a sensible movement choice for Royal Oak replicas.
10. Is the clone 4302 movement reliable?
Yes in general but I will recommend a service within 6 months of receiving the watch, as there is always invariably dirt/grit in the movement, or it could be dry or have parts misaligned. Letting the watch run extensively under these non-optimal states could (but not always) lead to more serious issues for the movement.
11. Do the factory watches come waterproofed?
Toss a coin for this one, but in general, yes they are good for handwashing and rain showers. If you intend to swim with them in the swimming pool, at least get it pressuretested. If you intend to swim with it in the sea, you are on your own. Even if pressuretested, the gaskets may or may not hold up to prolonged exposure to the corrosive salts in the sea water.
12. How rude can you get, really? (and its endless variations)
It all depends but I try not to be whenever approached. What you perceive as rude may be subjective.
13. If I drop the watch, what do I have to do to remedy it
After you are done blaming yourself and the concrete floor, understand that any drop more than 30cm will warrant at least a realignment and regulation of the parts. Check and note the impact area for damage, try to show your watchsmith or modder the damages and after placing the blame on the family dog or reckless cyclist, get it sorted out calmly. Do not fret, what is done is done. Be thankful that it is not a gen.
14. Which dial color is the best typically? (15500, 15400, 15450)
Typically black is closest. Blue for the 15500 has potential. Grey is typically off for all models and silver is good for the old JF 15450 and 15400 but too matte for the 15500.
15. Can gen dials be fitted into the replica Royal Oaks
Yes for the 15500, 15400, 15450, 15202, 15300, 67650 (these are what I have worked on for gen dials)
One thing to note that is that for miyotas, the dial feet will need to be clipped. For clone movements, the feet and movement groove alignments may sometimes be off. Adjustments may be needed or one or both dial feet clipped. But yes gen dials will fit.
16. Can I wear my replica Royal Oak to a gen watch gathering/the brand boutique/to my grandmother's house/to meet the President/to a social event without getting called out?
Yes you can possibly. But you will always know that it is a rep, and the mental deterrence works more strongly than any social "call outs" IMHO. My advice is not to do so when there is a chance that someone will focus on the watch and ask to see it off the wrist. As a mark of respect, please do not wear it to the AP boutique as well. You can, but please try not to.
17. Are the crystals on the replica Royal Oaks in general good enough?
IMHO yes they are. Gens have single AR crystals (or no AR for the vintage models). The rep crystals are good enough for me.
18. I have $500 to spend. What should I do with the watch to improve it?
Fold the bills and stick the $500 out of your front pocket. Buy confidence and then wear the watch as it is.
19. Is it really true that the gen steel Royal Oak cases are made from 316 steel, like the rep?
Yes and no. The gens and reps are both made from 316 steel but they have slight variations in the metal composition (from the color which are at times visible) and the finish. Needless to the say the gen finish is a lot more refined.
20. How is the lume on the replica Royal Oaks?
The gen Royal Oaks are not known for strong or long lasting lume. They work sufficiently well and you will forget about the lume faster than the lume fades. The rep lume is consistent with the gen. These are not Panerai. So don't worry about the lume.
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