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I am just starting this thread to get some opinions and track progress throughout this build.
I was lucky enough to snag an old AP 14790 by BP. This was a popular Royal Oak that was 36mm x 8mm, and had a long running from the 80s through the mid 2000s. BP factory did a replica that was okay but not amazing.
It's the same width (36mm), but is 9.5mm thick, and features what appears to me to be a gen ETA 2824, or one with genuine parts.
However, due to lack of significant recent interest in this model, this is what I have to play with.
Some measurements - I noticed I didn't take a pic of the width, but it is 36mm without crown.
Now, onto the important part (in my opinion) - the dial. The Stern family made the dials for these watches, and I really wanted to get my hands on a genuine Stern dial that had the older style logo with all caps, but I could not find a 36mm version of the dial that had that style font and the word "Automatic" above the 6. The dials that were available during my 3 month search like that were for the AP 4100 - which was the style just prior to the 14790 and utilized the same Cal 2225 movement, but the case was 1mm smaller at 35mm.
I also settled on a white dial, as I have acquired a genuine black dial for the 15300, and blue is either impossible to find, or expensive.
There were 2 variants of the 14790 dial (edit: there were 3, but it was like the 4100 dial below) - short and long indexes, with the short index being more modern, and having an updated date font (kind of like the BP rep date wheel). That being said, I prefer the long indexes as it's a classic look, and it just looks better to me.
The 4100, however, has the more aesthetically pleasing dial (to my eyes) than even the 14790 long index. Here's a comparison:
As much as I longed to get a 4100 dial into my 14790, I just REALLY don't think it will fit into the BP case. There are two reasons.
1. Dial size: The 4100 dial is 25.3mm. The 14790 dial is 26.5mm. The dial opening on the case is 25.6mm, so the 4100 dial would be 0.3mm smaller than the opening. Because the rep dial is 27.1mm, the only dial that could fit similarly is the 14790 dial at 26.5mm
^^ Taking measurements of 0.6mm to see if the dial would look bad
2. The dial being smaller than the opening wouldn't be as big of an issue if the movement was secured in place with tabs or something similar. However, there are no tabs, the movement and everything is held in place via pressure from the caseback, the crown, and the dial. Evidence of the pressure on the dial can be seen in the pics below. I spent a lot of time trying to see if the dial could feasibly fit.
^^ The dial under macro as it fits in the case
^^ Some wear at the 50 mark
^^ Finally the nail in the coffin - see the wear at 45 is really apparent where the pressure is on the dial and seemingly necessary to fit.
^^ Here is how the movement fits into the case. Note that there are no tabs keeping it in place.
So, I need a 14790 dial for sure.
Now, on to the date disc. There are, in my estimation, probably 4 different variants for the cal 2225 and cal 2325 that the 14790 utilized in its life, but luckily they are all the same size. I found a nice, much older vintage style date disc for a reasonable price.
^^ notice the curved "4" and "7", a feature that was revised as AP progressed into the late 90s and early 2000's.
^^Thankfully the date disc is only 0.20mm thick. The 5402 date disc for the cal 2121 is 0.4mm thick, which is beastly. By comparison, the overlay made by Keylog and spongebob is 0.17-0.18mm thick, so this should be a fine overlay.
So, with my decisions seemingly made for me, I waited to see what kind of deals would pop up on a dial. One did. This 'dial for repair' showed up, and I bought it. It is for the 36mm Quartz movement (notice that there is no 'AUTOMATIC' above the 6). It is the same size at the 14790 dial at 26.5mm, and the date window is in the same place.
^^ with the date disc test fitted.
^^ Trying it in the case
After consulting with legend, who graciously gave his insight and knowledge, the markers appear to be made with a brass alloy due to the corrosion, and I am not interested in plating my hands to be a brass color. So unfortunately I made the decision to keep this dial for another day. My question (to those of you still reading) - would this look okay with stainless steel hands?
So with the decision made - due to the lack of "AUTOMATIC" and the brass markers, I was going to go back to my original decision and get a white dial. eBay luckily sent me a nice 20% off coupon code so I got this dial and it is now on the way.
I am still debating if I pay the extra dough to have the BP Case thinned (or if it even can), or just keep it as 9.5mm is still quite thin.
Also, I am missing some links, so I've ordered a rep bracelet off of AliExpress as it's the only place that has 23mm AP bracelets. Genuine extra links are $250-350 a piece.
Also, a MAJOR shoutout to LuminorReptar who helped a ton with ideas, and encouraging this wonderful hobby/money pit/whatever you want to call it.
Anyways, please give feedback, and let me know what you think!
I was lucky enough to snag an old AP 14790 by BP. This was a popular Royal Oak that was 36mm x 8mm, and had a long running from the 80s through the mid 2000s. BP factory did a replica that was okay but not amazing.
It's the same width (36mm), but is 9.5mm thick, and features what appears to me to be a gen ETA 2824, or one with genuine parts.
However, due to lack of significant recent interest in this model, this is what I have to play with.
Some measurements - I noticed I didn't take a pic of the width, but it is 36mm without crown.
Now, onto the important part (in my opinion) - the dial. The Stern family made the dials for these watches, and I really wanted to get my hands on a genuine Stern dial that had the older style logo with all caps, but I could not find a 36mm version of the dial that had that style font and the word "Automatic" above the 6. The dials that were available during my 3 month search like that were for the AP 4100 - which was the style just prior to the 14790 and utilized the same Cal 2225 movement, but the case was 1mm smaller at 35mm.
I also settled on a white dial, as I have acquired a genuine black dial for the 15300, and blue is either impossible to find, or expensive.
There were 2 variants of the 14790 dial (edit: there were 3, but it was like the 4100 dial below) - short and long indexes, with the short index being more modern, and having an updated date font (kind of like the BP rep date wheel). That being said, I prefer the long indexes as it's a classic look, and it just looks better to me.
The 4100, however, has the more aesthetically pleasing dial (to my eyes) than even the 14790 long index. Here's a comparison:
As much as I longed to get a 4100 dial into my 14790, I just REALLY don't think it will fit into the BP case. There are two reasons.
1. Dial size: The 4100 dial is 25.3mm. The 14790 dial is 26.5mm. The dial opening on the case is 25.6mm, so the 4100 dial would be 0.3mm smaller than the opening. Because the rep dial is 27.1mm, the only dial that could fit similarly is the 14790 dial at 26.5mm
^^ Taking measurements of 0.6mm to see if the dial would look bad
2. The dial being smaller than the opening wouldn't be as big of an issue if the movement was secured in place with tabs or something similar. However, there are no tabs, the movement and everything is held in place via pressure from the caseback, the crown, and the dial. Evidence of the pressure on the dial can be seen in the pics below. I spent a lot of time trying to see if the dial could feasibly fit.
^^ The dial under macro as it fits in the case
^^ Some wear at the 50 mark
^^ Finally the nail in the coffin - see the wear at 45 is really apparent where the pressure is on the dial and seemingly necessary to fit.
^^ Here is how the movement fits into the case. Note that there are no tabs keeping it in place.
So, I need a 14790 dial for sure.
Now, on to the date disc. There are, in my estimation, probably 4 different variants for the cal 2225 and cal 2325 that the 14790 utilized in its life, but luckily they are all the same size. I found a nice, much older vintage style date disc for a reasonable price.
^^ notice the curved "4" and "7", a feature that was revised as AP progressed into the late 90s and early 2000's.
^^Thankfully the date disc is only 0.20mm thick. The 5402 date disc for the cal 2121 is 0.4mm thick, which is beastly. By comparison, the overlay made by Keylog and spongebob is 0.17-0.18mm thick, so this should be a fine overlay.
So, with my decisions seemingly made for me, I waited to see what kind of deals would pop up on a dial. One did. This 'dial for repair' showed up, and I bought it. It is for the 36mm Quartz movement (notice that there is no 'AUTOMATIC' above the 6). It is the same size at the 14790 dial at 26.5mm, and the date window is in the same place.
^^ with the date disc test fitted.
^^ Trying it in the case
After consulting with legend, who graciously gave his insight and knowledge, the markers appear to be made with a brass alloy due to the corrosion, and I am not interested in plating my hands to be a brass color. So unfortunately I made the decision to keep this dial for another day. My question (to those of you still reading) - would this look okay with stainless steel hands?
So with the decision made - due to the lack of "AUTOMATIC" and the brass markers, I was going to go back to my original decision and get a white dial. eBay luckily sent me a nice 20% off coupon code so I got this dial and it is now on the way.
I am still debating if I pay the extra dough to have the BP Case thinned (or if it even can), or just keep it as 9.5mm is still quite thin.
Also, I am missing some links, so I've ordered a rep bracelet off of AliExpress as it's the only place that has 23mm AP bracelets. Genuine extra links are $250-350 a piece.
Also, a MAJOR shoutout to LuminorReptar who helped a ton with ideas, and encouraging this wonderful hobby/money pit/whatever you want to call it.
Anyways, please give feedback, and let me know what you think!
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