A2824-2 cannon pinion

[Steven]

I asked this elsewhere but I think it's more suitable here...

What all is involved in changing a stock (H2 I think) cannon pinion to H3 or H4 to allow more clearance for the hands from the dial? Many thanks.

 

[Alexander]

Hi Billy,
take a look at cousinsUK. They have a scheme about components of 2824-2, 2836-2 etc and there you can find all you need to do that change.
These are the parts you need (to get a H4):
- Cannon Pinion With Drive Wheel, Height 2.70mm (ETA2500242H270)
- Fourth Wheel Centre Seconds, Height 5.55mm (ETA2801227H555)
- Hour Wheel, Height 1.76mm (ETA2600255H176)

Of course you must have a little bit knowledge about movements.

 

[Steven]

Knowledge would be helpful!

If this is all I need I can gather the parts and have someone do it. I think I can do it though. Is the job very difficult?

 

[KBH]

The 4th wheel center seconds change involved taking a good portion of the movement apart.

You have to remove the autowind bridge and the gear train bridge. The only thing tricky is getting the gear train back together without breaking anything. The other two are easier.

 

[watchman12345]

Just be careful. You can destroy the dial and hands removing them if you don't have experience.

 

[Steven]

Thanks for the tips guys. If I keep it, this is something I want to do. Worst-case I ruin it and buy a real swiss mvmt. It's really more that I want to learn what's going on in there than correcting the aesthetic problem. I'm slowly acquiring tools and reading as much as possible. I'm not above paying someone to do it but I'm not to that point yet.

 

[watchman12345]

Be sure to protect the dial and use good tools. The hands bend very easily and the dial can chip at the edges if you put it unevenly back into the case. Getting spare parts can be a pain.

 

[Steven]

Duly noted.

 

[Steven]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I completed this swap last week.

I salvaged the gear set from a 2836 so I assume it was H4. I was so excited that I forgot to put the calipers on one of the gears to confirm but I knew they were taller.

The job was not bad but the gear train (thanks KBH for the heads-up) did require the most patience but finally the stars aligned and all was good.

I think you get more height when using this set on 2824 because of the thinner movement. I seem to have more clearance than a 2836 rep.? It looks good though.

Pics to follow.

 

[KBH]

Congratulations. Next one will be much easier.

 

[Steven]

Congratulations. Next one will be much easier.

I'm looking forward to it. I did buy a beater 2824 and did a few practice runs with it first. Definitely calmed the nerves...

My goal was to get straight hands and I did that. I think it looks good for a short-timer.

 

[pete195]

H4 parts are very hard to find and very expensive

 

[Steven]

FWIW:

H4 height for the cannon pinion is 5.55mm, costs $12.95 but is out of stock. (can be ordered)


H4 height for the hour wheel is 1.75mm, costs $8.95 and is in stock.



H4 SS Fourth Wheel = 5.55mm, runs $13.95 and is in stock

per:
Henry Livesay Jr
Livesay's Inc. Tampa FL

 

[SUMIKITO]

It's all about the height of the hands above the dial folks. That's why TC uses an H4 canon pinion ETA in his Subs. As a Gen should be. Makes the hands 'float' above the dial when looked at sideways. Great pointers to be learned here from all posters !! Rep on !!

 

[pete195]

these parts are now obsolete ?

 

[sicilianu]

I cannot find this part ETA2600255H176Is there any webside where I can find it because Cousins does not have it?

 

[davidmac]

I know this is an old thread but you need these parts from the cousins website.

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[ItalianSub]

resurrecting an old post here...but I'm a bit confused about a 2836-2 even needing the full H4 upgrade. Ofrei.com states that an ETA 2836-2 movement comes with H4 4th wheel stock. Anyone confirm or deny this on clone movements? Wouldn't this conversion be super simple if it only required cannon pinion and hour wheel change to convert to full h4?