- 24/12/11
- 67,017
- 18,800
- 113
-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
1675 build: getting that Hangzhou glued on the spacer
- Thread starter Poecilotheria
- Start date
It's always interesting to hear different opinions on modding techniques. Personally, I've had a higher success rate with dial dots than I have with gluing feet onto the dial. But as I said earlier, that's probably because I'm terminally clumsy - which is why this thread and KJ detailing his successful approach was an interesting read.
The only HEV I need to work properly is the one worn by Gordon Freeman. Any other HEV can be glued solid IMO.
The only HEV I need to work properly is the one worn by Gordon Freeman. Any other HEV can be glued solid IMO.
- 12/3/18
- 37,543
- 80,257
- 113
I do use dial dots, but only temporarily. They are perfect for holding the dial spacer in place while adjusting the position of a slow cure epoxied DWO. As previously mentioned, I use the actual movement and dial when doing this and it can sometimes take a dozen dial placements and removals to get all the numbers centered. I don't check every single number after every adjustment, usually checking halfway around the overlay will reveal a problem if there is one.
It would be maddening to have to deal with a spacer placement on each of these iterations, so I anchor the spacer to the movement with two landscape oriented rectangular dial dots placed vertically, half on the spacer edge and half on the movement. This step is a huge benefit in making that process less aggravating.
I have used this same approach a time or two when gluing a dial to the spacer, to keep the two bonded pieces firmly attached to the movement. I find it a viable technique as well, and would use four thin 3-4mm ribbons of JB Weld between the dial and the spacer. It's not as convenient for dial removal as gluing on dial feet IMO, as that requires removing and replacing the sticky dots vs simply loosening the dial feet clamps. But it does eliminate any bulk thickness issues dial dots can create since none are used in a horizontal flat orientation.
It would be maddening to have to deal with a spacer placement on each of these iterations, so I anchor the spacer to the movement with two landscape oriented rectangular dial dots placed vertically, half on the spacer edge and half on the movement. This step is a huge benefit in making that process less aggravating.
I have used this same approach a time or two when gluing a dial to the spacer, to keep the two bonded pieces firmly attached to the movement. I find it a viable technique as well, and would use four thin 3-4mm ribbons of JB Weld between the dial and the spacer. It's not as convenient for dial removal as gluing on dial feet IMO, as that requires removing and replacing the sticky dots vs simply loosening the dial feet clamps. But it does eliminate any bulk thickness issues dial dots can create since none are used in a horizontal flat orientation.