Also if ordering one it looks like don’t order from Puretime because they’re selling their Noob v2 with the old dial, so buy one from inTime? Also where would I source an ARF v2 bezel from, a TD?
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116500 White Dial 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, ARF V1, V2 & Noob V1 & V2 Evaluation
- Thread starter ssouthall6
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Also if ordering one it looks like don’t order from Puretime because they’re selling their Noob v2 with the old dial, so buy one from inTime? Also where would I source an ARF v2 bezel from, a TD?
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M Scott
Renowned Member
- 22/9/18
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InTime, Chasing, and Trusty have all listed a "New updated" V2 White Noob 116500 dial on their websites, but all the pictures still look like the same dial that Noob has been using since last fall.
I think that they’re ALL selling their Noob v2 with the old dial, but some are calling it new, based on all of pictures that I have seen.
The V2 Black Noob 116500 Dial is new and there have been MANY pictures posted clearly showing this.
I canceled my order with PureTime due to their “V2” being really batch #2 and not revised dial.
With that said, I just got my QC from Ryan and what’s throwing me off is the “O” in Rolex. It appears thick all around and I’m now questioning the dial... am I wrong in questioning? Picture quality is pretty good. No complaints there.
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With that said, I just got my QC from Ryan and what’s throwing me off is the “O” in Rolex. It appears thick all around and I’m now questioning the dial... am I wrong in questioning? Picture quality is pretty good. No complaints there.
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M Scott
Renowned Member
- 22/9/18
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Just my opinion, but both of these pictures from Intime (Ryan) still look like the same dial that Noob has been using since last fall, and not a "revised" dial.
The overall quality may be a little better with a newer batch, but the design and layout of the dial looks unchanged.
.
Just my opinion, but both of these pictures from Intime (Ryan) still look like the same dial that Noob has been using since last fall, and not a "revised" dial.
The overall quality may be a little better with a newer batch, but the design and layout of the dial looks unchanged.
.
Interesting, and that’s what Angus has been preaching. Rest of the watch looks good. Hmm... what to do.
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If you want to be sure of getting the right dial, ask for high resolution pictures and just compare them to this chart.
I've pointed out really clearly what the differences are and how to see them, I leave it to you guys from here, you can use an app called 'layout' and zoom right in if you need to be really sure.
The problem you have, is that the people putting together the watches, the dealers, none of them can probably actually tell and nor do they really care. There's no real v2, v3, v9.5. Nor do they come with time and date of production stamps. So it's impossible saying only buy from intime or whatever, they really don't know what to look for. And they deliberately send these low res pictures that makes it difficult to see flaws, it's part of the game.
It's only OCD freaks like us that do. It's only because I love this watch that I teach myself this stuff. If you give me ap, I can't tell. But when someone says to me, look, this 42mm ap roo they get the spacing between the date and the tachy wrong on the rep, then I know. And that's why I create this guide for you guys, so you can work it out yourselves, because I will tell you now you can't rely on the dealers. Many watches pass through their hands, they have no desire nor need to know every model inside out. They just make sure they work and there's no glaring QC problems
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I've pointed out really clearly what the differences are and how to see them, I leave it to you guys from here, you can use an app called 'layout' and zoom right in if you need to be really sure.
The problem you have, is that the people putting together the watches, the dealers, none of them can probably actually tell and nor do they really care. There's no real v2, v3, v9.5. Nor do they come with time and date of production stamps. So it's impossible saying only buy from intime or whatever, they really don't know what to look for. And they deliberately send these low res pictures that makes it difficult to see flaws, it's part of the game.
It's only OCD freaks like us that do. It's only because I love this watch that I teach myself this stuff. If you give me ap, I can't tell. But when someone says to me, look, this 42mm ap roo they get the spacing between the date and the tachy wrong on the rep, then I know. And that's why I create this guide for you guys, so you can work it out yourselves, because I will tell you now you can't rely on the dealers. Many watches pass through their hands, they have no desire nor need to know every model inside out. They just make sure they work and there's no glaring QC problems
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SuperLory
Well-Known Repist
- 22/10/15
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I'm going with accepting it...the thing is if you are a TD you can show all other TD websites and all you see is a stated V2 yet showing what WE call v1 dial
Also the difference for white dial is so minute they are laughing (or loathing) at us.
I'm also pushed by the motivation of being paying a premium hence wanting what I should get, but it's the first time I'm rejecting watches based on principles and not based on being an unacceptable watch. Because f hell that still looks damn good
Last edited:
kopite81
Active Member
- 2/12/18
- 268
- 127
- 43
Hi All
Would you all say this is a V2 Noob?
I’ve pulled the trigger as it all looks good to me but you experts may know otherwise.
I’m thinking about doing the ARF bezel/gasket, ARF dial and the clasp.
Your opinions on this QC are appreciated all the same
Thanks.
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Would you all say this is a V2 Noob?
I’ve pulled the trigger as it all looks good to me but you experts may know otherwise.
I’m thinking about doing the ARF bezel/gasket, ARF dial and the clasp.
Your opinions on this QC are appreciated all the same
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tschacko
Active Member
- 1/8/18
- 484
- 184
- 43
Hi All
Would you all say this is a V2 Noob?
I’ve pulled the trigger as it all looks good to me but you experts may know otherwise.
I’m thinking about doing the ARF bezel/gasket, ARF dial and the clasp.
Your opinions on this QC are appreciated all the same
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, Subdials look like V2. Is that Lucy ?
kopite81
Active Member
- 2/12/18
- 268
- 127
- 43
Tschacko
Active Member
- 1/8/18
- 484
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- 43
- 11/7/16
- 2,432
- 2,358
- 113
Absolutely adore my Noob with ARF dial. Best of both worlds. Thanks OP for putting together all of that information though.
Part of what drew me to the 116500 was seeing it out in the wild - the thin subdial rings were really cool to look at.
Part of what drew me to the 116500 was seeing it out in the wild - the thin subdial rings were really cool to look at.
Absolutely adore my Noob with ARF dial. Best of both worlds. Thanks OP for putting together all of that information though.
Part of what drew me to the 116500 was seeing it out in the wild - the thin subdial rings were really cool to look at.
I'm happy to help my friend
- 11/3/18
- 716
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I received mine today and I have to say it is very very impressive.
I have seen a lot of pandas and this is very close on the wrist the subdials on the version 1 were substantially fatter this was more evident on the black version and you could easily tell it was a fake. Even with not much knowledge.
This is a whole different kettle of fish the sub dials are near as dammit on point on wrist nobody will be able to tell even next to the genuine article I doubt anybody could tell the difference I am hopefully going to be able to get some side-by-side pictures with the gen
My theory with this subdial malarkey is that people are thinking about older versions of the stainless steel Daytona which had ridiculously thin subdials. Other faces also had thin or different subdials. The genuine 2019 panda does have fatter sub dials than stainless steel i.e. no ceramic bezel versions.
Then Noob messed it up with the fat sub- dial problem. Now. In my opinion, this dial is good enough there is no need to buy an ARF dial and go through the process of milling it down to size et cetera or God forbid buying a genuine face for about $1000 so you can get subdials that are .3 of a millimetre thinner.
I have had quite a few replicas through my hands and this is an incredible replica. The
SA4 130 movement is buttery smooth the pushers and everything is pretty much perfect.
Considering this watch in STAINLESS STEEL is going for well north of $20,000 and it's not much cheaper than the solid gold version. This is a bargain obviously you can't fake gold very easily but STAINLESS STEEL wise this is pretty much one-on-one.
I have seen a lot of pandas and this is very close on the wrist the subdials on the version 1 were substantially fatter this was more evident on the black version and you could easily tell it was a fake. Even with not much knowledge.
This is a whole different kettle of fish the sub dials are near as dammit on point on wrist nobody will be able to tell even next to the genuine article I doubt anybody could tell the difference I am hopefully going to be able to get some side-by-side pictures with the gen
My theory with this subdial malarkey is that people are thinking about older versions of the stainless steel Daytona which had ridiculously thin subdials. Other faces also had thin or different subdials. The genuine 2019 panda does have fatter sub dials than stainless steel i.e. no ceramic bezel versions.
Then Noob messed it up with the fat sub- dial problem. Now. In my opinion, this dial is good enough there is no need to buy an ARF dial and go through the process of milling it down to size et cetera or God forbid buying a genuine face for about $1000 so you can get subdials that are .3 of a millimetre thinner.
I have had quite a few replicas through my hands and this is an incredible replica. The
SA4 130 movement is buttery smooth the pushers and everything is pretty much perfect.
Considering this watch in STAINLESS STEEL is going for well north of $20,000 and it's not much cheaper than the solid gold version. This is a bargain obviously you can't fake gold very easily but STAINLESS STEEL wise this is pretty much one-on-one.
Last edited:
I received mine today and I have to say it is very very impressive.
I have seen a lot of pandas and this is very close on the wrist the subdials on the version 1 were substantially fatter this was more evident on the black version and you could easily tell it was a fake. Even with not much knowledge.
This is a whole different kettle of fish the sub dials are near as dammit on point on wrist nobody will be able to tell even next to the genuine article I doubt anybody could tell the difference I am hopefully going to be able to get some side-by-side pictures with the gen
My theory with this subdial malarkey is that people are thinking about older versions of the stainless steel Daytona which had ridiculously thin subdials. Other faces also had thin or different subdials. The genuine 2019 panda does have fatter sub dials than stainless steel i.e. no ceramic bezel versions.
Then Noob messed it up with the fat sub- dial problem. Now. In my opinion, this dial is good enough there is no need to buy an ARF dial and go through the process of milling it down to size et cetera or God forbid buying a genuine face for about $1000 so you can get subdials that are .3 of a millimetre thinner.
I have had quite a few replicas through my hands and this is an incredible replica. The
SA4 130 movement is buttery smooth the pushers and everything is pretty much perfect.
Considering this watch in STAINLESS STEEL is going for well north of $20,000 and it's not much cheaper than the solid gold version. This is a bargain obviously you can't fake gold very easily but STAINLESS STEEL wise this is pretty much one-on-one.
Beautiful!
I'm ready to order one of this beauty!!