16610 Franken build - early tritium model!

[HulkyGalore]

Since my first ever 16610 replica from the 90s I have always liked this model.

After some time on here learning the basics I decided to build my ideal watch. I have learned a lot from people on here including how to source parts, and who to rely on for casework.

Yes, a TC would be nice but what I really enjoy is building and learning about the best parts for a build, it might cost more but when spread over a period of time its bearable. It takes patience, though! There is some enjoyment in the wait, sourcing the right parts.

I wasn't sure which section to post in, so thought I would post in this section showing the process and what tools I used. Maybe someone else will be able to do the same, which is a way of reducing the cost compared to buying one ready built.

The parts I have acquired, have been from all over the world, including Usa, Vietnam, China, Canada, Germany, Holland, England and France, maybe some other regions too. A truly international build. Mostly gen parts or gen spec at least.

The tools I have acquired over a period of time since I started this hobby. I am only doing a "basic" level of work so only have basic tools but things like a decent press to put crystal retaining rings in place are necessary for this sort of assembly (caution, though - a later picture will explain).

Anyway - here is the first picture of the parts collected:

 

[KJ2020]

Which movement bro?

 

[Jackster]

I'm going to enjoy this.... VR3135?

 

[HulkyGalore]

Which movement bro?

I thought you might ask that - I had a VS3135 but the date sat too low. I then found an old (SH?) from an ARF DJ which would stop working randomly. I was going to use it for spares so I stole the date plate from it and upon replacement on the VS the date didn't click over properly. After some messing about I decided to use a VR. I hope to fix that VS at some point, but currently I am still on a learning curve about the causes of non perfect date flipping...

I have also learned that changing datewheels may not always result in perfect function, due to the thickness variations and friction (I think).

For anyone interested in KJ's mod to fix the low date on VS's here it is:

A fix for CLEAN low VS3135 datewheel

A couple years ago CLEAN switched to using the awesome VS3135 in some of their Subs. I got a 116613LB, the Bluesy. So my DW sat a little low and I finally got around to fixing it. What I found was a little surprising so I thought I'd mention it here in case others run into this batch of...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[HulkyGalore]

I'm going to enjoy this.... VR3135?

Yes, and here it is with the new open 9 DW:

 

[HulkyGalore]

I fitted the insert to the bezel, but at first it wouldn't click straight in. Maybe I am used to the slightly looser tolerances / larger ARF bezels.

So I heated the bezel in boiling water and was then able to fit it - even though the expansion would have been minimal maybe the water had a lubricating effect. In any case I don't think the insert will drop out!

 

[Jackster]

Clever... as I said, I'm going to enjoy this! Great tip!

 

[KJ2020]

I fitted the insert to the bezel, but at first it wouldn't click straight in. Maybe I am used to the slightly looser tolerances / larger ARF bezels.

So I heated the bezel in boiling water and was then able to fit it - even though the expansion would have been minimal maybe the water had a lubricating effect. In any case I don't think the insert will drop out!

If your insert alignment (triangle lower tip vs 60 minute tic) is OK, great. But sometimes it can be off (between clicks) which is so annoying.

You really can't know if it is going to be OK until the dial is mounted and the movement is installed. Fortunately a 5 digit bezel and insert are a lot easier to deal with than a 6 digit so multiple removals and replacements aren't so bad.

A couple of techniques I use may be useful to you and others.

With everything installed to the case but the insert I lay the top half of the insert into the bezel and nudge rotate it to where it looks right. I am hugely left eye dominant and wear my magnification on my left eye. This creates parallax and easily throws off what I see from where it really is. When an insert alignment is perfect it has to look a smidge off center right to my eye. I've gotten pretty good at knowing how much a smidge is lol, but that almost never achieves perfection first time around.

So I take pics. I have a side edge bubble level app to hold my phone level. After I take the pic I use the phone's generic photo software to rotate the pic level using dial text, then use the grid lines to evaluate the insert alignment. I know this sounds like a lot of work but like everything it gets way fast and becomes routine with repetition.

With a 6 digit bezel you can press or tape the insert right away once it's aligned but often the 5 digit bezel has to be removed to re-press the insert. I put Sharpie marks on the bezel so I can press the insert exactly how it needs to go. Then reinstall the bezel and verify with another pic. You can do this right in one set of efforts and love it forever or miss the mark and always hate it.

Here's one I did recently. First pic is my best effort without marking the bezel. Second one is after corrections using markings. It can help to have at least the upper bracelet half installed to provide another reference point.

Here's a 6 digit example

 

[HulkyGalore]

KJ this is very good advice - thankyou for the detail. I usually put the insert in once the bezel is installed on the retaining ring - and think this is how it should be done once I get around to the final stages of assembly. That way the lining up can be done properly.

With me having assembled that part already, unless I am really lucky, it probably won't line up. It may be easier to press the insert in place with the whole assembly to push against compared to trying to force it into a thin skinny metal ring!

 

[HulkyGalore]

The dial next to the insert. It is a dial I searched for a while, and eventually found it in Canada.


Could it be that the whiteness retained on the tritium is due to it being exposed to less sunlight over the years? The tritium in the pearl matches really well, fortunately.

 

[Yellowsubmarine]

Nice to see this finally coming together mate!
Following your updates, nice haul of parts

 

[HulkyGalore]

Nice to see this finally coming together mate!
Following your updates, nice haul of parts

Thanks, appreciate the comments. That dial is interesting because in different light you can see the surface finish which is more matt than gloss. Anyway in the meantime here is the dial on the movement:

 

[HulkyGalore]

Did I say I would post some tool shots? Here is one of my best tools:

 

[HulkyGalore]

Here is a shot of the unique surface finish on the dial:

 

[HulkyGalore]

The hands took a while to find - there were lots of degraded, delicate or part missing lume hands around. I even saw some which could have been put together from different parts, where the lume did not match on the hour, minute and second hands. Eventually I found these ones which are a good match for the dial and insert.

 

[HulkyGalore]

I will get to more details on the case, which came from Vietnam sourced by @tripdog who did the casework to make it a well looked after 30+ year old watch with typical wear. He sorted the contours, lugs, tube threads for a gen tube, but most of all throughout the process he helped answer my questions as I learned. I can't thank him enough for that and he comes highly recommended. He is very experienced and often my assumptions were wrong - which he politely pointed out to avoid me making too many mistakes. Usually the mistakes I made were because I hadn't asked a question... but learning happens through your own experience as well as the experience of others, right?

I got some new gasket seals and they fitted perfectly. I will use silicone grease before assembly. Here is the back of the case and retaining ring.

Here is the case after his excellent rework, ready for the gen parts:

 

[Joshuamodi]

I will get to more details on the case, which came from Vietnam sourced by @tripdog who did the casework to make it a well looked after 30+ year old watch with typical wear. He sorted the contours, lugs, tube threads for a gen tube, but most of all throughout the process he helped answer my questions as I learned. I can't thank him enough for that and he comes highly recommended. He is very experienced and often my assumptions were wrong - which he politely pointed out to avoid me making too many mistakes. Usually the mistakes I made were because I hadn't asked a question... but learning happens through your own experience as well as the experience of others, right?

I got some new gasket seals and they fitted perfectly. I will use silicone grease before assembly. Here is the back of the case and retaining ring.

Here is the case after his excellent rework, ready for the gen parts:

That case is crispy!!
This will be turn out very nice, good luck!

 

[Joshuamodi]

Did you go with the bezel from the viet case or gen bezel?

 

[HulkyGalore]

Did you go with the bezel from the viet case or gen bezel?

For now the viet bezel will be used. It fits the retaining ring well, and the insert. I preferred to invest in gen dial/hands/insert/crystal/tube/crown/stem first, and may get a gen bezel at a later stage. But it is not bothering me enough to look for one.

 

[Joshuamodi]

For now the viet bezel will be used. It fits the retaining ring well, and the insert. I preferred to invest in gen dial/hands/insert/crystal/tube/crown/stem first, and may get a gen bezel at a later stage. But it is not bothering me enough to look for one.

Good call. The viet is just fine.