Any difficulty doing it or was it a simple swap? I heard stem heights might be different.Yes possible, done it myself.
Any difficulty doing it or was it a simple swap? I heard stem heights might be different.
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I don't know why one would do this. The Rolex real 3285 moves as an ETA does. It doesn't move like an 31XX. So why would one use a 3185/86 on them.
Example. When you move to adjust the hands on the new Rolex 32XX movements and you move the crown clockwise the hands go anti-clockwise where a 31XX would go the same direction you move the crown. ETA has always been opposite.
I think the reason would be to get a more reliable CHS movement. You cant see the adjustment directikn while wearing wheras it is possible to see the HandStack.
If the vr gmt movement really is more reliable than the chs eta timebomb movement is yet to be proven but tbh I would also rather have the vr than the eta
And in case something breaks you can get gen spare parts and Upgrade the movement.
occb2 :blink:..uh...um........Although I really want to pretend like I understand what you're saying....I just simply don't have enough watch knowledge as much as you do to understand all you have said....sorry LOL
I mean...the only reason why I wanted to put VR3185 into noob blro was because I don't feel secure about having time bomb movement in blro.
Should I not?
great.......sounds like I just wasted my money on buying VR3185... :laughing::laughing::laughing:
I wouldn't say that - it's a cutting edge movement. We are barely crawling yet on what and how to use these things.
While I agree, If look is what one is after It would be a lot more simple to build a 3175. Parts are around $300 and you would have correct hand stack and quickset. All it takes is a 3135 rep and 4 parts. 5 if you want to change the winding bridge to read 3175.
That would be the most reliable right now.
I have all of them. The VR is nice. But the GMT hands is loosing time with the hour hand. I serviced it and there is a part that is a must that needs to get changed. 3185-660 that seems to handle to problem as per other watch makers. I am still waiting on my part.
Now the AR I have not serviced. At the time both the ARF and VRF I wanted to use the ARF as was because it was reading better on the timegrapher. I wore it for a week maybe two with out issue. It wasn't till I set it down and let it uncharge. When I went to adjust the hour bhandd to jump the date a week forward the spring broke. It still keeps great time. I just can't jump the hour hand. Again I ordered those parts too to repair.
So if one is looking for a reelable CHS do what I suggested over a year ago. Grab any 116610 3135 case. ARF would be my choice because they have a little bit of an indentation where the bezel sits. Get a Car crystal and a Rolex 116710 crystal ring and bezel and dial. Grab your favorite 3135 rep.
I will cut and paste how to do it. Here it is.
"Take a 3135 remove the date wheel and take the date plate off. Replace the Intermediate date wheel (3175-670) Replace 12 hour wheel and 24 hour wheel and 24 hour min wheel parts (3175-280-284-260) put the date plate back on. Make sure you line up the pinion on the intermediate date wheel or you will crush it and be SOL. Put on your date wheel. Flip the movement over and remove the stem and then winding bridge that saids 3135 on it and transfer the crown wheel and bearing and screw and replace on the 3175 winding bridge put it back on and put your stem back in. Put dial on the movement. Align midnight snap. Press hands put watch together. LOL. That is it. A proper hand stack either real 3175 or clone 3175. You can save $ leaving the 3135 rep winding bridge but after all that work I would go all out! But don't forget. You need a 16700 dial. The 16710 dial you are suppose too have jumping hour hand and no quickset and adjustable GMT hand."
Those are all the parts needed. Period. CHS Rolex 3175 movement will fit any 3135 case.
Now that aside. The VRF and the ARF are not to the point where I would spend a crazy amount of money building and cutting dial feet and so on. They have been out for a month or two. We need info and lots of it. Lets get them fixed or figure out how to make them amazing.
Im just excited that we have 2 Rolex spec case that takes a 3185/86.
Trust me. I want a batman. The VRF case is already marked 126710 so it will rule while the ARF case is marked 116710. You can't go wrong. So lets have fun!!!!
I swear I've seen this topic been discussed somewhere, but can't find it.
So, let me ask. Is this possible? putting VR3185 into Noob BLRO?
Has anyone done this swap yet?
sorry, late to the game. yeah it is possible but there is a couple things to remember. first the dial won't fit, you'll have to cut the feet and center it yourself. next the hands won't fit, 3185 has a different pinion size not related to eta, so source some 3185 hands. next movement stem height. its not a deal breaker but the stem height is different on the 3185 clone so putting it into a case with an eta crown height may put some unwelcome strain on the movement keyless. otherwise goodluck on the project, the game is a foot.....
While I agree, If look is what one is after It would be a lot more simple to build a 3175. Parts are around $300 and you would have correct hand stack and quickset. All it takes is a 3135 rep and 4 parts. 5 if you want to change the winding bridge to read 3175.
That would be the most reliable right now.
I have all of them. The VR is nice. But the GMT hands is loosing time with the hour hand. I serviced it and there is a part that is a must that needs to get changed. 3185-660 that seems to handle to problem as per other watch makers. I am still waiting on my part.
Now the AR I have not serviced. At the time both the ARF and VRF I wanted to use the ARF as was because it was reading better on the timegrapher. I wore it for a week maybe two with out issue. It wasn't till I set it down and let it uncharge. When I went to adjust the hour bhandd to jump the date a week forward the spring broke. It still keeps great time. I just can't jump the hour hand. Again I ordered those parts too to repair.
So if one is looking for a reelable CHS do what I suggested over a year ago. Grab any 116610 3135 case. ARF would be my choice because they have a little bit of an indentation where the bezel sits. Get a Car crystal and a Rolex 116710 crystal ring and bezel and dial. Grab your favorite 3135 rep.
I will cut and paste how to do it. Here it is.
"Take a 3135 remove the date wheel and take the date plate off. Replace the Intermediate date wheel (3175-670) Replace 12 hour wheel and 24 hour wheel and 24 hour min wheel parts (3175-280-284-260) put the date plate back on. Make sure you line up the pinion on the intermediate date wheel or you will crush it and be SOL. Put on your date wheel. Flip the movement over and remove the stem and then winding bridge that saids 3135 on it and transfer the crown wheel and bearing and screw and replace on the 3175 winding bridge put it back on and put your stem back in. Put dial on the movement. Align midnight snap. Press hands put watch together. LOL. That is it. A proper hand stack either real 3175 or clone 3175. You can save $ leaving the 3135 rep winding bridge but after all that work I would go all out! But don't forget. You need a 16700 dial. The 16710 dial you are suppose too have jumping hour hand and no quickset and adjustable GMT hand."
Those are all the parts needed. Period. CHS Rolex 3175 movement will fit any 3135 case.
Now that aside. The VRF and the ARF are not to the point where I would spend a crazy amount of money building and cutting dial feet and so on. They have been out for a month or two. We need info and lots of it. Lets get them fixed or figure out how to make them amazing.
Im just excited that we have 2 Rolex spec case that takes a 3185/86.
Trust me. I want a batman. The VRF case is already marked 126710 so it will rule while the ARF case is marked 116710. You can't go wrong. So lets have fun!!!!
Exactly. It was one of the first thoughts I had when the VR/AR GMT movements came out, that hopes of transplanting it into the Noob BLRO were quickly dashed.
No idea how thinker1 did his movement swap as he claimed though..
The way I see it is to use the VRF case, since it has the 126710 marking already anyway (although both my LN and Batman were marked 116710, I don't have proof of this but maybe the new owners can chime in) or as Rob said it use any 3135 case?