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ZF 15400 - First pictures

Repworld

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Neither will be perfect, it is a matter of which is less flawed.
As you likely will agree, in most X vs Y factory scenarios, one will have advantage over the other in specific aspects. It is rare for any one model to completely dominate the other in every area.
I am not saying that this will not be a possibility here, but there will likely be areas which each model is better in. A combination of both models may be necessary to get the "best" replica money can buy without going franken.

JF for sure.


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Dr Fun Socks

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Rotor has still the wrong color :D

Theyre actually brass underneath, im considering trying to polish one up and see how it looks. Cant be further away than the wrong bloody colour! Anyone got any ideas of a material harder than gold but softer than brass? Has to be higher than 2.5 but lower than 3 on mohs scale...
 
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legend

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Theyre actually brass underneath, im considering trying to polish one up and see how it looks. Cant be further away than the wrong bloody colour! Anyone got any ideas of a material harder than gold but softer than brass? Has to be higher than 2.5 but lower than 3 on mohs scale...

Too much research and effort involved IMHO because:

1. Movement details aren’t seen when watch is on the wrist

2. Engraving details on rotor are still off VS gen even if you get the color correct.

3. Movement decoration details, as well as position of balance wheel, and finishing of plates and jewels are all tells the moment you flip the watch over.

So yes you can in theory get the rotor color sorted out. But it’ll be a tell resolved in a sea or tells. I’m sure your helpful talents can be put to better use for the rest of the community. :)


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Glaude

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Theyre actually brass underneath, im considering trying to polish one up and see how it looks. Cant be further away than the wrong bloody colour! Anyone got any ideas of a material harder than gold but softer than brass? Has to be higher than 2.5 but lower than 3 on mohs scale...

I would say it doesn't really have to be softer than brass, as long as you go gentle and slow, once you hit brass, you'll barely damage it.
Steel wool, even though being harder, with very fine grit could also help without really damaging the brass underneath

Or browse in here : https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm

Hard part will be to find a tool suitable in one of the materials !
 
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Dr Fun Socks

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I get its probably the last thing i should be worrying about but if its a quick and easy fix its something id like to try! I might give it a go with some copper later. I dont have a copper brush but ill figure something out. Main problem is the engravings. They might be wrong but they look a ton better than if i mangle the hell out of them... not sure if steel wool will get to the bottom of the engraving channels as its quite puffy.
 
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legend

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I get its probably the last thing i should be worrying about but if its a quick and easy fix its something id like to try! I might give it a go with some copper later. I dont have a copper brush but ill figure something out. Main problem is the engravings. They might be wrong but they look a ton better than if i mangle the hell out of them... not sure if steel wool will get to the bottom of the engraving channels as its quite puffy.

Of course, you decide the worth of your time and efforts ultimately!
Just a curious question though, why copper?
 
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Dr Fun Socks

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Of course, you decide the worth of your time and efforts ultimately!
Just a curious question though, why copper?

Ive got too much spare time haha. Lucky to have a job i dont work long or hard enough for the money they pay me :) my theory is its harder than gold but softer than brass... i mean you dont get brass rawhide mallets, its always copper, hence its softer than brass. There arent a lot of things that are metal that arent harder than gold. Therefore hopefully it will remove the shitty rose gold finish but leave the brass underneath unscathed.... im thinking take some electrical wire and take out the copper and hope for the best because no one seems to make pure copper brushes! The real problem i guess is what do they really use to plate it because i doubt very much its real gold but we’ll see!
 
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rayz20

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Neither will be perfect, it is a matter of which is less flawed.
As you likely will agree, in most X vs Y factory scenarios, one will have advantage over the other in specific aspects. It is rare for any one model to completely dominate the other in every area.
I am not saying that this will not be a possibility here, but there will likely be areas which each model is better in. A combination of both models may be necessary to get the "best" replica money can buy without going franken.

Yes, I completely agree on that.
Nothing I could add here.
 

legend

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Ive got too much spare time haha. Lucky to have a job i dont work long or hard enough for the money they pay me :) my theory is its harder than gold but softer than brass... i mean you dont get brass rawhide mallets, its always copper, hence its softer than brass. There arent a lot of things that are metal that arent harder than gold. Therefore hopefully it will remove the shitty rose gold finish but leave the brass underneath unscathed.... im thinking take some electrical wire and take out the copper and hope for the best because no one seems to make pure copper brushes! The real problem i guess is what do they really use to plate it because i doubt very much its real gold but we’ll see!

wow, that is some wicked theorizing there! Thank you for sharing, I really appreciate it.
Do share the results of your experiment with us Dr Fun Socks
 
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Dr Fun Socks

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wow, that is some wicked theorizing there! Thank you for sharing, I really appreciate it.
Do share the results of your experiment with us Dr Fun Socks

Will do mate ill post some pics later. I see what you mean about the shoddy detailing on the rotor. I mean the gen is in a different league. I briefly considered trying to to something about it but im not an artist and that is some seriously small engraving haha!
 
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legend

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Will do mate ill post some pics later. I see what you mean about the shoddy detailing on the rotor. I mean the gen is in a different league. I briefly considered trying to to something about it but im not an artist and that is some seriously small engraving haha!

Even if you perfect the color, finishing and details of the rotor, you need to remember that it sits on a shoddy looking miyota movement, and it will be a little like putting a gold necklace on a goose lol.
It will make far more sense to improve the looks of the watch on the wrist, but hey, I am still looking forward to see what you do for the rotor!
 

Dr Fun Socks

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Even if you perfect the color, finishing and details of the rotor, you need to remember that it sits on a shoddy looking miyota movement, and it will be a little like putting a gold necklace on a goose lol.
It will make far more sense to improve the looks of the watch on the wrist, but hey, I am still looking forward to see what you do for the rotor!

Man if you’ve got any ideas about what could be sorted im all ears! Ive learned about the thinning, it feels great now, apart from the time it takes it wasnt super hard. Ive considered trying to do something about the pimples (i have a v2) but short of machining them off and having to re colour and paint the dial im at a bit of a loss. Im not even going to attempt to rebrush it because i know that wont go well. I might get a cheapo dh gate 15400 to experiment with brushing at a later date but i know how hard it will be to get right. Every goose deserves a gold necklace though :)
 

kobe24

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ZF swiss hand set, very very good.

WX20191105-182944-2x.jpg
 

Dr Fun Socks

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I've been thinking of doing exactly that as well. Maybe we could trade notes at some point to speed up the learning curve.

How are you thinking of doing it? My approach is looking like polish the sides, then get a 240 grit wet and dry belt for my belt sander and hope for the best. Ive read in other threads the bezel has a 240 grit brush so im thinking thats the way forward.
 
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asuwere

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How are you thinking of doing it? My approach is looking like polish the sides, then get a 240 grit wet and dry belt for my belt sander and hope for the best. Ive read in other threads the bezel has a 240 grit brush so im thinking thats the way forward.

I was thinking that the problem in my eyes is that the bezel and top of the case need long, unbroken brush lines. But when you move it side to side like this over the belt that produces a "noisy" brush pattern. That pattern is supposed to be on the sides and bracelet, just not on the bezel. So I was thinking to create a holder and move it in a perfectly straight line over the sanding surface by hand. I'm not sure what grit though. It might need two different grits. One to cut the lines and the other to soften it up a bit.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhHT29zh...=1g2gwwez76aeh
 
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