Best replica models of the particular factories

[chronomate]

Next update to follow. I go with the recommendation of Daywatch and won't include modders since this is a level too high for the intention of this thread.

 

[chronomate]

Update:

Still unanswered: Is here anyone who has experience with that maker worth sharing?

Added PAM suggestions from Daywatch.

Always latest versions:

Noob
- Rolex
-- Submariner 116610 Blue, Green, Black Bezel (ceramic)
-- Submariner 116613 (bicolor, blue ceramic bezel)
-- Submariner 114060 (no date / ceramic bezel)
-- Sea Dweller V2 116600 (ceramic bezel)
-- Sea Dweller Deep Sea V2 116660 (ceramic bezel)
-- Explorer 216570 (white and black dial)

- Breitling Avenger Skyland

- Panerai
-- PAM 243
-- PAM 029
-- PAM 292 (Radiomir)

- AP Chronographs (not as good as JF but lower in price)

- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

- Omega Planet Ocean

V6F / KW
- Panerai
-- PAM 127 (Fiddy)
-- PAM 312
-- PAM 346 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 359
-- PAM 388 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 417
-- PAM 504 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 505 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 508 (Luminor Submersible)

- Omega
-- CRPO (Planet Ocean)
-- Seamaster 300m Co-Axial

- HUBLOT Big Bang diverse models

TC
- Yachtmaster 116622
- Submariner 16610 LN / LV (non-ceramic)

H-Maker:
- PAM 288 (Radiomir)
- Breitling Steelfish

TF
- AP 15400 (TF only made the 15400 but best of all)

JF
- Audemars Piguet
-- ROO Chronos (little better than Noob but more expensive)
-- Diver V7

-Rolex
-- Yachtmaster 16622
-- Daytona 116520 and all other models to that reference number

BP
- Rolex
-- Dweller 16600 (pre ceramic)
-- Datejust II (41 mm diameter)

WM9
- Submariner 16613 (bicolor, blue bezel) - out of production

ZF
- Tudor Heritage Black Bay V

LF
- Explorer 1 214270(SA3132 movement - takes gen dial & hands, fits gen case)


GENERAL INFO CONCERNING RLX

Submariner & Sea Dweller:

- Ref.-No. starting with "double 1" stand for ceramic bezel
- Ref.-No. beginning with "single 1" refer to non-ceramic bezels

All models:

-> all 6 digit refs = ceramic bezel
-> 5 digit refs point out non-ceramic bezels

LN = Black bezel
LV = Green bezel (often referred to as "Hulk" if the dial is green, too)
LB = Blue bezel (referred to as "Smurf" if the dial is blue as well)
LR = Red bezel
Pepsi = Red & blue bezel (GMT Master)

 

[chronomate]

Since nobody answered the LF question, I figuered it out myself. And now this becomes a "who has the best sub"-short-guide :laugh:

TC: Best one, but with aluminum insert in the bezel

Noob: Best out of the box Sub with ceramic bezel

LF: Good rep for a very reasonable price. But I guess, you get a just good Sub for a reasonable price on Ali as well.

If that goes for the Sub, it'll surely also go for the LF Explorer.

Therefore I'll take the LF out of the list with the next update.

 

[atgm]

For your bezel list, might be good to add:

Batman: Black and blue
Coke: Black and red

And maybe the French names behind the abbreviations (Lunette Noir, Verde, Bleu, Rouge)

Edit: KW/V6F seems to have the best Tudor Pelagos by general appearance due to the accuracy on the bezel number kerning vs ZF.

Edit 2: Maybe edit the first post, or make a read-only Google spreadsheet or something?

Edit 3: You're not including modders, but you're including TC/BP?

 

[QueTip]

JF
-Rolex
-- Yachtmaster 16622
GENERAL INFO CONCERNING RLX

Submariner & Sea Dweller:

- Ref.-No. starting with "double 1" stand for ceramic bezel
- Ref.-No. beginning with "single 1" refer to non-ceramic bezels

All models:

-> all 6 digit refs = ceramic bezel
-> 5 digit refs point out non-ceramic bezels

LN = Black bezel
LV = Green bezel (often referred to as "Hulk" if the dial is green, too)
LB = Blue bezel (referred to as "Smurf" if the dial is blue as well)
LR = Red bezel
Pepsi = Red & blue bezel (GMT Master)

JF Yachtmaster still is 116622.

Also not all 6 digit refs refer to ceramic models. They refer for the modern (current) generation.

Would also be good I think to add the original meanings of the color schemes.

LN = Lunette noire
LV = Lunette verte
LB = Lunette bleu
LR = Lunette rouge
BLNR = Lunette bleu et noire
BLRO = Lunette bleu et rouge (Pepsi)
Coke = Black red

 

[everythingwithmod-eration]

Yes: LN = Lunette Noir (French for "black crescent")
LV = Lunette Verte (French for "green crescent")

Crescent refers to the round shape of the bezel insert.

Others include Bleu (for Blue), Rouge (for Red), etc.


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That awkward moment when you realize that you know nothing... I've wondered about that since I joined here and RWG. Thank you!

 

[R2L]

That awkward moment when you realize that you know nothing... I've wondered about that since I joined here and RWG. Thank you!

At one time we were all where you are, so don't feel bad! Through reading, asking questions, and Google, you can pick up a lot of info! This forum is a great place to hang out and increase your knowledge base.


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[MNS3030]

This is awesome! Thank-you "uhrenmagich", this information is very helpful. Great Job!!

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[Champagne iH]

Sorry if I was seeming like a thread hater, as all info is good, but
I will add some more food for thought.
Rolex, Phong makes the best stuff but way over $1000, and you can get a Yuki rep 3135 movement. so many good mads that can be done to watches making them so much better.

Noob ade a great diver V5..... But with 5.3, which I bought and was very lucky, as all but the first batches had lume connecting the 50 mark on the inner bezel. If you didn't have this problem the Noob AP diver is great.

The rolex threads are huge, I get that and steered clear of them for a long while, but strangely I am starting to like the better Rolex models again. I have a Noob No date sub-C that is great in every way, Jus a few things I plan on changing like a gen crown and crown tube.

The H factory makes a lot of good Panera, or at least they did, but it depends on you definition of better than Noob. They had better hour markers but if you have the watches with the seal guys on the front its a toss up. casebooks mean a lot, and with Omega
I wouldn't recommend any speedsters, but the Bond SMPs were very good for the most part. I have no idea who made my Bond 50th anniversary but its a super rep by far. I had 3 gen Omegas over time. I would give the LMPO a good score too, but when printing on the back comes off, thats a negative but solid back PO are so much better especially if they have a good seamonster engraving, laser or however its done.

Movements again are something there is tons of disagreements on. I don't like Miyota because they are not hacking movements, but the 9015 is a good quality movement, but that being said if I wanted a rep that only came with Miyota 80xx series I would probably buy a gen eTA movement, available at Ofrie and on the parts list on many forums. I would put the decorated rotor on it if I could modify it, but I won't by any more flyback cases. They just make no sense on divers.



I do need to apologize for my serious typos, but a lot of my nut is done through a smart phone while soaking in a hot tub, for treating headaches. Big fingers and horrible apple autocorrect replace make things almost unreadable. Thanks for struggling through it.



Franck Muller has some good reps that were made and some are still made, if you can deal with the hazards of 18k plated Rose Gold. In the real world buy SS or PVD/DLC reps but if you want to get a gold product you really need to invest some time in moving equipment. Plenty of cheap quartz watches and broken batches to practice on. I can tell you that lume is an art and you will pay large for it, but it makes so much look great. Back to gold, again type as I think, but I bought the Franck Muller Casablanca in 18K rose Gold with a 7753 movement and its a really nice rep. what you don't learn until its too late or somebody explains it to you, gold even 14k yellow gold is thin even at 5 microns. Its a very soft metal 18k is even more easy to scratch or scuff. so I invested in an expensive jewelers grade electroplating machine. Almost $300. Then you have the solutions. RG isn't nearly as expensive as Rhodium but you need to plate steel with nickel first as the chromium in steel messes up the gold plating, so a 3rd metal is needed. Plus taking down a watch, removing crystal, pushers, movement.... Is time consuming. But the FM is that good, its worth it if you desire to beef up some skills and have some time for projects.

another Franck Muller that is great but out of production was their Long island Crazy Hours. I put one together with parts from helpful RWI members and its an instant conversation starter. It jumps 5 hour movements ahead every time the minute hand changes from 59 to 00. The curves model is available and still a pretty good rep in Stainless or PVD.

The Conquistador King Cortez also very hard to get ahold of, is a very good rep, but really I have no idea who makes these. I know some EU members have watchmakers that can find parts and make them for you custom and somebody makes them because Trevor and Toro bravos can source some Franck Muller.

Trevors site was really good as he actually categorized his offering by factory and buy brand. He like others have had sites seized but if you get a chance he has great pictures. I have to say that both trevor and sead, just don't let bad products chosen from the factories. QC is important but so is repeat business.


I know i am rambling a bit, but really the best reps are what you can get put of the box as well as ones that are so close that minimal modification can be done to make it a super rep.

Rolex SD4000 and the non ceramic from TC are amazingly great. I think BK sells SD4000 from Noob but makes sure things are just right, but you pay a steep price. However if you don't want to even try to modify, then they are worth their money.


In Thailand, former moderator for Rep Geek Nembo can get some really nice and inexpensive Thai reps, but like WK most of his movements are 21J, but 21J movements were the workhorses of the industry for almost 25 years. Again finding a great rep with a cheap movement, can have that moment switched out if the feet are compatible, or there are some dials that are okay adhering to the movement with double sided tape. Tudor, No dates and a few others.

On some Panarei I really like the simplicity and good lume of H-factory. Like any brand people get very caught up in crown guards and most of the tine that isn't a make or break as it can be fixed if needed.

Ill try to think of more to share as this thread has grown big so people are reading.

 

[chronomate]

Wow, that is a lot to chew. But very good!

Thanks for your expertise! :thumbup:

Rep points given :smile:

Your post, [MENTION=77135]Champagne iH[/MENTION] , shows exactly why I started this thread - e.g. I never heard of Phong before. Those reps seem to be rather rare, which is not surprising according to their price. But quality has its price - only that no noob would ever know that without intensive reading the forum before. And most new members come for the simple reason reason that they wanna buy a specific rep: Right now, best even within the next 30 mins since they just got infected by it :wowa:

So my motivation for this thread is, that it may help some others to avoid the mistakes I made when I bought my first reps without really having an idea what's right and what's wrong. And I'm glad that so many experienced members keep this thread alive now.

...you really don't want to see the first (crap-)rep I ever bought. :laugh: ...this, btw, could also be a good new thread: "Worst rep you ever bought" :happy:

 

[chronomate]

...Next update will come tomorrow, including all the additinal advise since the last one.

Thanks everyone for supporting this!

 

[Pammy123]

Good thread!

 

[chronomate]

Good thread!

Thanks mate, hope it helps giving newbies some orientation in the wide world of reps.

 

[chronomate]

Update:

Added corrections and additions of QueTip, atgm & Champagne iH
Phong
- Rolex: Specialized in Rolex and supposed to be the best maker for Rolex reps by far - but very expensive (over 1k$)

Noob
- Rolex
-- Submariner 116610 Blue, Green, Black Bezel (ceramic)
-- Submariner 116613 (bicolor, blue ceramic bezel)
-- Submariner 114060 (no date / ceramic bezel)
-- Sea Dweller V2 116600 (ceramic bezel)
-- Sea Dweller Deep Sea V2 116660 (ceramic bezel)
-- Explorer 216570 (white and black dial)

- Breitling Avenger Skyland

- Panerai
-- PAM 243
-- PAM 029
-- PAM 292 (Radiomir)

- AP Chronographs (not as good as JF but lower in price)
- AP Diver (V5)

- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

- Omega Planet Ocean

V6F / KW
- Panerai
-- PAM 127 (Fiddy)
-- PAM 312
-- PAM 346 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 359
-- PAM 388 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 417
-- PAM 504 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 505 (Radiomir)
-- PAM 508 (Luminor Submersible)

- Omega
-- CRPO (Planet Ocean)
-- Seamaster 300m Co-Axial

- HUBLOT Big Bang diverse models

- Tudor Pelagos

TC
- Yachtmaster 116622
- Submariner 16610 LN / LV (non-ceramic)
- Sea Dweller 4000

H-Maker:
- PAM 288 (Radiomir)
- Breitling Steelfish

TF
- AP 15400 (TF only made the 15400 but best of all)

JF
- Audemars Piguet
-- ROO Chronos (little better than Noob but more expensive)
-- Diver V7

-Rolex
-- Yachtmaster 116622
-- Daytona 116520 and all other models to that reference number

BP
- Rolex
-- Dweller 16600 (pre ceramic)
-- Datejust II (41 mm diameter)

WM9
- Submariner 16613 (bicolor, blue bezel) - out of production

ZF
- Tudor Heritage Black Bay V


GENERAL INFO CONCERNING RLX

Submariner & Sea Dweller:

- Ref.-No. starting with "double 1" stand for ceramic bezel
- Ref.-No. beginning with "single 1" refer to non-ceramic bezels

All models:

-> all 6 digit refs = current versions
-> 5 digit refs point phased-out versions

LN = Black bezel - Lunette noir
LV = Green bezel - Lunette verte (often referred to as "Hulk" if the dial is green, too)
LB = Blue bezel - Lunette bleu(referred to as "Smurf" if the dial is blue as well)
LR = Red bezel - Lunette rouge
BLRO = Red & blue bezel - Lunette bleu et rouge (GMT Master, often referred to as "Pepsi")
BLNR = Black & blue bezel (GMT Master, often referred to as "Batman")
Black & red bezel (GMT Master, often referred to as "Coke")

 

[chronomate]

For your bezel list, might be good to add:

Batman: Black and blue
Coke: Black and red

And maybe the French names behind the abbreviations (Lunette Noir, Verde, Bleu, Rouge)

Edit: KW/V6F seems to have the best Tudor Pelagos by general appearance due to the accuracy on the bezel number kerning vs ZF.

Edit 2: Maybe edit the first post, or make a read-only Google spreadsheet or something?

Edit 3: You're not including modders, but you're including TC/BP?

TC and BP are modders? I thought they weren't. Please someone clear me up. Thanks! :smile:

Perhaps it's a question of definition: I'd say modders buy fully assembled watches from a maker and modify / improve it. Makers make or buy components, assemble them and deliver the complete watch.


And WTH is an read-only Google spreadsheet? It's not only that I've got no idea about the rep world - I'm even worse with computers :laugh:

 

[chronomate]

JF Yachtmaster still is 116622.

Also not all 6 digit refs refer to ceramic models. They refer for the modern (current) generation.

Would also be good I think to add the original meanings of the color schemes.

LN = Lunette noire
LV = Lunette verte
LB = Lunette bleu
LR = Lunette rouge
BLNR = Lunette bleu et noire
BLRO = Lunette bleu et rouge (Pepsi)
Coke = Black red

Thanks mate! Corrections and additions posted with the last update.

I researched the web for the abbreviation of the Coke-bezel. Logically this would have to be NRRO or RONR, follwoing the system. But there obviously is no code like this for the Coke. Am I right?

 

[QueTip]

Thanks mate! Corrections and additions posted with the last update.

I researched the web for the abbreviation of the Coke-bezel. Logically this would have to be NRRO or RONR, follwoing the system. But there obviously is no code like this for the Coke. Am I right?

Correctamundo


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[Raddave]

Hmmmm.......A modder per say would take your existing watch and ......modify it, IMO.
Bk does do mods but only on new units which he sells....
And TC does not do modding......he builds

 

[chronomate]

Correctamundo


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Muchas gracias, senor :happy:

 

[chronomate]

Hmmmm.......A modder per say would take your existing watch and ......modify it, IMO.
Bk does do mods but only on new units which he sells....
And TC does not do modding......he builds

Thanks Sheriff, Sir!

And BP still is a maker, as well as TC. BK is not part of the list, so I believe it's correct then.