2836-2 vs 3186 Version

[RacksOnRacks]

Yes, I am saying that the Asian Clone 2836-2 is the best choice.
Just so you know, there is a promotion on this watch for RWI members. And MR is offering this watch for $178. It's exactly the same and I personally recommend MR.

In regard to Wiz, well I don't understand but he might be suggesting he only works on the Asian 3135 Rolex "Clone" I would ask him would he work on the Asian ETA clone. I would be surprised if he wouldn't! And if he said no the Clone then he would say no the "Swiss" version too. But just so you know, as this watch ($178 from MR, and less from TS Promotion) is quite cheap it may just work out better if it ever did break to just get another rep. Chances are you'll want a different one!

"Like the ultimate version" That could be either the ETA-Clone or the Rolex-Clone version. Just so you know, the Rolex clone version is a ETA clone, that is decoreated to look like the Rolex movement. But no one will be fooled.

Where can I find this watch and how do I order?

Where can I find this watch and how do I order?

NM, I found it. How do you know this is a 2836-2 and not a 2836 and does it really matter?

If it were any other watch I wouldn't care, but it seems like the GMT is prone to problems and I just want to make sure I get the best option, the first time.

 

[KenD]

316L stainless contains less carbon and iron than 316F. Both contain the same amount of 'white' metals such as chromium and nickel. 316F contains more phosphorus and sulfur than 316L. Because 316L contains 75% more Molybdenum than 316F it appears to be slightly darker in color - only 2 or 3%, so with only a negligible difference between the two, 316F is lighter in color.

316F is much easier than 316L to machine and is also better able to get a high polish finish.

316F is the 'free machining' version of 316L, and this is the most likely reason for the rep factories introducing it. It is easier to machine and to polish = quicker manufacturing turnover and it looks slightly better to the eye as it is a "whiter" metal.

 

[dsevo]

316L stainless contains less carbon and iron than 316F. Both contain the same amount of 'white' metals such as chromium and nickel. 316F contains more phosphorus and sulfur than 316L. Because 316L contains 75% more Molybdenum than 316F it appears to be slightly darker in color - only 2 or 3%, so with only a negligible difference between the two, 316F is lighter in color.

316F is much easier than 316L to machine and is also better able to get a high polish finish.

316F is the 'free machining' version of 316L, and this is the most likely reason for the rep factories introducing it. It is easier to machine and to polish = quicker manufacturing turnover and it looks slightly better to the eye as it is a "whiter" metal.

Do all of the V3 GMT's come with 316F, or only the ones with the 3186 movement? The way the websites are written, it seems like only the watches with the 3186 come with the 316F SS, but that doesn't make much sense to me.

Anyways, I am ordering one of the TS specials right now, so we'll see how it looks.

 

[d4m.test]

Here is the link for MR, price is $188 - http://www.marvellousreplica.com/Product_Detail.aspx?ProductID=201106141421

 

[sneed12?]

NM, I found it. How do you know this is a 2836-2 and not a 2836 and does it really matter?

As I've already explained to you, the "2836 vs 2836-2" distinction is pretty much one you made up. There is effectively no difference between "Asian 2836" and "Swiss 2836-2" the asian movement is an exact copy of the Swiss movement.

There does not exist any modern rep that actually has a 2836 non-2 movement unless it's an old movement from the 70's. IIRC the -2 nomenclature indicates that the movement has the regulator asymmetric screw (the non-2 had just an arm that you move) and that the hack lever was standard, as well as a few other incredibly minor differences that most people would not notice.

In other words--there is no difference, besides the one you just made up in your head. Please stop asking that question. You'll confuse people

 

[karesz501]

Here is the link for MR, price is $188 - http://www.marvellousreplica.com/Product_Detail.aspx?ProductID=201106141421

One more question (for now... ): is this MR the same version as the one in the TS promotion with a2836?!?!

 

[levelmanroger]

Regarding 316L vs 316F steel being offered by dealers:

Chinese marketing gurus, aka rep dealers, will say all kinds of things to part you with more money.
"Ultimate version" = +$40
"316F Steel" = +$25
"Made using a gen watch as an example ", "1:1", "Grade AAA++", "Water tight", etc are all used just to close the deal.

It's mostly BS. You can pour over 5 watches from 3 dealers trying to determine if you should pay $40 more for a gen movement, or $50 more for "better steel, or just pay $100 more for an Ultimate version, and so on.
Before you know it, you've paid $478 plus shipping for the same Sub you could get for $188 from any dealer.
But you THINK you have the best rep on the market! One that could even fool the Rolex Service Center (because you paid extra for the 31XX movement).
Just buy the stupid watch and quit obsessing over over minor detail. You are just going to drive yourself insane.

 

[RacksOnRacks]

As I've already explained to you, the "2836 vs 2836-2" distinction is pretty much one you made up. There is effectively no difference between "Asian 2836" and "Swiss 2836-2" the asian movement is an exact copy of the Swiss movement.

There does not exist any modern rep that actually has a 2836 non-2 movement unless it's an old movement from the 70's. IIRC the -2 nomenclature indicates that the movement has the regulator asymmetric screw (the non-2 had just an arm that you move) and that the hack lever was standard, as well as a few other incredibly minor differences that most people would not notice.

In other words--there is no difference, besides the one you just made up in your head. Please stop asking that question. You'll confuse people

I didn't make this up. I am going by what is advertised. I have also read other threads comparing the two movements. Please compare the following links:

Asian copy 2836
http://timesshop.net/product.php?id_product=6430

Swiss eta 2836
http://timesshop.net/product.php?id_product=6431

Swiss eta 2836-2 with the option of choosing Asian clone 2836-2
http://timesshop.net/product.php?id_product=8189

If this distinction is "made up" why are they advertising differences with differences in price? I understand there is no point in paying more for "Swiss ETA", but what about 2836 vs. 2836-2? If the 2836 is an old movement from the 70s that no one uses any more, I should just order the least expensive 2836 version knowing I will get the latest 2836-2?

 

[d4m.test]

Regarding the two watches you have found (I'm not going to comment on the Swiss movement option as I personally do not recommend wasting this money when you are most likely going to get a clone anyway)

I think the promotion watch is the same one as the other, however you may find that the bezel may not be as aligned or the bracelet may not be scratch free. However this is just my speculations as to why the price difference. I am sure if you ask TS they will be able to tell you. I am sure I did read on here that someone asked that very question and the reply was to buy the one on promotion.

However if like me, if you are a little paranoid when it comes to price differences - may I suggest trying another dealer. I have put a link here for the dealer I personally recommend (however there are more and others will recommend others) and the price is only slightly more than the promotion, but less than the full price offered by other dealers. I took the middle and the QC photos I think mean I did very well.

Aligned bezel, +/-5 seconds, aligned date. I should be getting it this week and I will post photos when I do!

 

[sneed12?]

I didn't make this up. I am going by what is advertised. I have also read other threads comparing the two movements. Please compare the following links:

:facepalm:

OK fine. Order them both, tear the movements down, and report back what the "differences" are.

 

[d4m.test]

I don't think that's needed Sneed... I can see the poster is new and understandably confused. Let's give him a break! It has been explained now and I think the issue has been cleared up

Something for all to think about maybe - is you get what you pay for. I do wonder why one is offering it so cheap, another at a more fair price, and then the rest with - how convienently - the same price...

 

[sneed12?]

I don't think that's needed Sneed... I can see the poster is new and understandably confused. Let's give him a break! It has been explained now and I think the issue has been cleared up

That's what I thought the last two times but you're right. Sorry for the snarky attitude.

@Racks: There IS NO difference between a "2836" and a "2836-2" as advertised on any rep site. Period. If you look closely at the links you put up, two are for RWI Promotion (IE, sale price) watches and one is the regular price.

I have torn down a lot of movements, and I can put together a list of exactly what the differences are between a 2836 and a 2836-2. They stopped making non-2 movements back in the 70's I think. The last non-2 movement I saw was from an Enicar I was using for a movement swap.

Once again: there IS NO difference in the context of any modern rep.

 

[levelmanroger]

That's what I thought the last two times but you're right. Sorry for the snarky attitude.

@Racks: There IS NO difference between a "2836" and a "2836-2" as advertised on any rep site. Period. If you look closely at the links you put up, two are for RWI Promotion (IE, sale price) watches and one is the regular price.

I have torn down a lot of movements, and I can put together a list of exactly what the differences are between a 2836 and a 2836-2. They stopped making non-2 movements back in the 70's I think. The last non-2 movement I saw was from an Enicar I was using for a movement swap.

Once again: there IS NO difference in the context of any modern rep.

Exactly!

 

[Kerbus]

I had a GMT with a "Swiss" 2836 that worked fine for over three years, granted I didn't wear it every single day. I wound up just replacing it, with a clone version. It ought to be reliable for a decent amount of time. I'm not going to fret when it exhibits sign of needing servicing or repair. When I come to that bridge, I'll decide if I should just get another again like I wound up doing this time around. By that time, a better movement may be available any how. I say pick you watch, buy and enjoy. I'm not going to factor out the fun I'm supposed to get from collecting these things.

 

[karesz501]

I had a GMT with a "Swiss" 2836 that worked fine for over three years, granted I didn't wear it every single day. I wound up just replacing it, with a clone version. It ought to be reliable for a decent amount of time. I'm not going to fret when it exhibits sign of needing servicing or repair. When I come to that bridge, I'll decide if I should just get another again like I wound up doing this time around. By that time, a better movement may be available any how. I say pick you watch, buy and enjoy. I'm not going to factor out the fun I'm supposed to get from collecting these things.

+1, YESS

 

[RacksOnRacks]

:facepalm:

OK fine. Order them both, tear the movements down, and report back what the "differences" are.

Why the gesture? If you don't know the answer, just let someone else help instead of trying to increase your post count.

I was hoping to find information on this. That is the whole point of the thread. I just want to get one the best option the first time as far as reliability goes. Please offer helpful information, links or suggestions only.

That's what I thought the last two times but you're right. Sorry for the snarky attitude.

@Racks: There IS NO difference between a "2836" and a "2836-2" as advertised on any rep site. Period. If you look closely at the links you put up, two are for RWI Promotion (IE, sale price) watches and one is the regular price.

I have torn down a lot of movements, and I can put together a list of exactly what the differences are between a 2836 and a 2836-2. They stopped making non-2 movements back in the 70's I think. The last non-2 movement I saw was from an Enicar I was using for a movement swap.

Once again: there IS NO difference in the context of any modern rep.

Thank you. Was that so hard? I wish I had the tools and knowledge of you guys and the ability to repair and service my own watches. Unfortunately I don't and I have to conduct the proper research before I spend my hard earned money.

Thanks again

 

[dsevo]

I ordered a TS RWI special GMT with the asian clone, so we'll see how good it looks. I'll try to post some good pics when I receive it. Thanks for all of your help guys, its much appreciated.

 

[sneed12?]

Why the gesture?

Perhaps because you totally ignored my last two attempts to answer your question?

If you don't know the answer, just let someone else help instead of trying to increase your post count.

You're kidding, right?

I was hoping to find information on this. That is the whole point of the thread. I just want to get one the best option the first time as far as reliability goes. Please offer helpful information, links or suggestions only.

Well if you look back at the previous page, I gave the EXACT SAME ANSWER that I gave on this page. I also gave the exact same answer in the other thread that you started about this question.

I don't give a rat's ass about my post count, I'm trying to help. You know what they say about leading a horse to water.

Thank you. Was that so hard?

Now that I know I have to repeat everything three times for you, I guess not.

 

[dsevo]

Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but why can't one buy the cheap 21J watch since it is a good rep, and then have a genuine ETA 2836 movement swapped in. I know it is very unlikely to get a good ETA movement from one of the watch makers, so swapping one in seems like a good choice to me. I found a GMT ETA movement on the Bay for $150. Is there a reason that won't work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/GENUINE-Swiss-E...ltDomain_0&hash=item4aac90d073#ht_2438wt_1141

 

[sneed12?]

Not a stupid question at all.

That seller also sells reps (helenarou), first of all, so that movement is exactly the same one that you'd be getting if you ordered an ETA powered watch.

In order to swap, you'd need hands (the hole sizes are different) and a new stem at minimum. Realistically, you'd want a new dial (the feet are in a different place) and datewheel overlay, and a movement ring. Doing the swap just isn't cost effective.