- 16/8/09
- 7,845
- 75
- 48
What I'm going to do here is put together a tuto thats as easy and painless to follow as possible. It is designed for noobs doing this for the first time and even guys who have done it many times before.
Lets get the team together.
REMOVING / CHANGING A STRAP
Simple as taking the correct sized "flat blade" screwdriver and removing the screwbars. They run the entire lenght of the lugs unlike Pre-V bars wich have small screw heads on either end of a threaded tube.
You can see here that a Panerai strap weather leather or rubber should be fitted with tubes for functionality
The buckle is removed the same way but has no tube.
REMOVING CROWN GAURD
Simple as opening the lever and taking the correct sized "flat blade" screwdriver and removing the 2 screws.
UNCASING
CASE BACK REMOVAL
Lots has been said about horbs but I love mine. You can use a correct tool here but I have not needed one yet.
STEM REMOVAL
Here is where things get a little technical, but trust me, if you've gotten this far all you need now is a little patience.
Pull the crown out to the time setting position and set the time to 12. (makes hand removal easier later) Slowly turn this screw out about half a turn.
Your crown and stem should just pull out effortlessly. If it does not try another 1/4 turn. If, for some reason you turned out this screw too far, the keyless will need to be reset. Don't fret, we will get to that in a bit.
Congrats. Your station should look like this now.
Set aside the case back o-ring for now.
MOVEMENT TAB REMOVAL
Find the correct size driver for the movement tab screws. These are the bane of many modders the first dozen or so times you have to deal with these little buggers.
Remove both screws and tabs and set aside in a parts tray. You can pick up a mini paint tray at the dollar store for this.
Some watches will have more than one tab under the screw to apply more downward pressure to the dial if it is a thinner than normal dial. More on that later.
Here is a shot of the movement tab. You will notice once its out that it will be bent slightly. This is also to increase / decrease pressure on the dial when the movement is secured later. Pay attention to wich way it is bent ---- up or down.
ACTUAL UNCASING
Most guys place a "pad" upside down over the back of the watch like so. It's a great thing to invest in and comes with most watch tool kits.
Flip it over and remove the case.
Now is a great time the thread the case back onto the empty case so no dust gets in there.
If you didnt set the time to 12 before or it has moved due to a tensioned spring slide the stem back in and set the time to 12. No need to tighten the keyless to set the time here.
HAND REMOVAL
I have seen tutos using different dial protectors in the past and you can indeed use paper and such but the 3 dollar investment in a proper dial protector was worth it.
Slide the dial protector under the hand stack and pull the hands with a hand puller. Getting inventive with tools that are not correct here will just end up with damaged hands and dials.
DIAL REMOVAL
Flip the movement over and locate the dial feet screws. They are directly behind the movement tab screw holes.
This part was hard to photograph or explain so I'll try my best. The heads of the feet screws are shaped like capital Ds. The dial foot sits on a hole drilled through the case and directly beside the screw head. When the head is turned so the flat part of the screw head is beside the foot the dial can be lifted off. When the screw is turned so the rounded part is squashing into the foot the dial is secured to the movement.
Turn the screw to the correct orientation and remove the dial.
There will be a brass hour wheel washer between the dial and movement. Be sure not to loose it and it's orientation is of little concern.
You can see in this picture at the top right, the brass washer is on the hour wheel.
SECONDS HAND REMOVAL
If by chance you are turning a seconds at 9 Panerai like a 111 into a base like a 112 there are a few tutos on that around. I know for a fact most builders just file the seconds output down. You should really take your time and make sure nothing gets into your movement or go crazy like the guy who built this watch. (NOT me BTW)
CHANGE OUT SWAN NECK SCREW TO A LONGER ONE
This is the simplist and hardest mod wrapped up into one. Just change a screw right? Mostly, you'll see when you do it that you need an extremly steady hand for this.
Pull out a long screw from an H-factory or equivalent movement and the short one.
Here is a comparison shot of both
Here is the "longer" screw installed in the Noob movement
"RE-SETTING" A KEYLESS
The nice thing about this is the movement does not have to be disassembled to re-set it.
Place your movement dial side up. Get a driver, some tweezers and your finger ready.
You can see here that the "arm" has come out of the time setting gear because the keyless screw was turned until the small plate on bottom right here that was attached to the screw no longer is.
First up is remove the one screw that holds the large plate on. There are several things under tention under there so hold it down as you loosen out the screw.
SLOWLY lift up the plate until the U shaped spring "springs". Hopefully it didn't go flying. Remove the large plate, the U shaped spring and the arm that wasn't in the right spot and set them aside.
You can now "re-set" the keyless. Thread the release screw back into the small plate. Don't tighten it, just get it started. Reinstall the crown. You will see a small narrowing in the crown and this where the pin that sits UNDER the small plate will sit.
These pictures will illustrate the importance of this step to help you understand how the keyless actuly works.
Crown out
Crown in
Here is a little video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=48XhK5h4JrM
Now you can reinstall the parts. First place the arm back on it's pivot and into the corect spot on the kyless.
With the crown out
With the crown in
Now maybe the most tricky part. Installing the damn spring. You will have to hold down the arm with your finger while you set the spring with your tweezers. It should look like this when your done.
Then slowly place the top plate. Once it's down hold it there with your finger and pull back the small arm on the large plate to mate with the TOP pin on the small plate. Install and tighten the screw.
Here is the same picture from earlier but you can see what I described above.
Here is a video to show a working keyless.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLUIir0OPw0&feature=youtu.be
INSTALLING DIAL
Don't forget to install your brass washer. Reverse steps from removing dial section.
INSTALLING HANDS
It is good idea to get a proper hands tool so you don't scratch the hands. I install my hands at 3 o clock. I find it easiest but then check them at 12 and 6 to be sure the alignment is great.
Hold up the movement to make sure the hands are flat to the dial then spin them around to verify clearance at all positions.
RE-CASE AND LUBRICATION
Clean everything with compressed air. Getting a watch back together without dust in it is a real trick. You may have to recase your watch several times to get it done without dust.
Line up the movement in the case and slide in the stem. Don't tighten it yet, you need to install the movement tabs first.
Slide a tab into the slot cut into the case, then start to thread the screw but don't tighten it. It's harder than it sounds but with practice isn't that bad. Do the same with the other tab. Once both screws are started then you can tighten them both.
Lubricate the case back o-ring and crown gasket with silicone grease. I've found the kind sold at SCUBA stores is identical to watch makers siliclone and a fraction of the cost.
Reverse steps from before and re-install your crown and tighten then stem screw.
Tighten down your case back, and don't forget to add some purple loctite to your strap, buckle and crown gaurd threads.
Install your favorite strap and your done!
Lets get the team together.
REMOVING / CHANGING A STRAP
Simple as taking the correct sized "flat blade" screwdriver and removing the screwbars. They run the entire lenght of the lugs unlike Pre-V bars wich have small screw heads on either end of a threaded tube.
You can see here that a Panerai strap weather leather or rubber should be fitted with tubes for functionality
The buckle is removed the same way but has no tube.
REMOVING CROWN GAURD
Simple as opening the lever and taking the correct sized "flat blade" screwdriver and removing the 2 screws.
UNCASING
CASE BACK REMOVAL
Lots has been said about horbs but I love mine. You can use a correct tool here but I have not needed one yet.
STEM REMOVAL
Here is where things get a little technical, but trust me, if you've gotten this far all you need now is a little patience.
Pull the crown out to the time setting position and set the time to 12. (makes hand removal easier later) Slowly turn this screw out about half a turn.
Your crown and stem should just pull out effortlessly. If it does not try another 1/4 turn. If, for some reason you turned out this screw too far, the keyless will need to be reset. Don't fret, we will get to that in a bit.
Congrats. Your station should look like this now.
Set aside the case back o-ring for now.
MOVEMENT TAB REMOVAL
Find the correct size driver for the movement tab screws. These are the bane of many modders the first dozen or so times you have to deal with these little buggers.
Remove both screws and tabs and set aside in a parts tray. You can pick up a mini paint tray at the dollar store for this.
Some watches will have more than one tab under the screw to apply more downward pressure to the dial if it is a thinner than normal dial. More on that later.
Here is a shot of the movement tab. You will notice once its out that it will be bent slightly. This is also to increase / decrease pressure on the dial when the movement is secured later. Pay attention to wich way it is bent ---- up or down.
ACTUAL UNCASING
Most guys place a "pad" upside down over the back of the watch like so. It's a great thing to invest in and comes with most watch tool kits.
Flip it over and remove the case.
Now is a great time the thread the case back onto the empty case so no dust gets in there.
If you didnt set the time to 12 before or it has moved due to a tensioned spring slide the stem back in and set the time to 12. No need to tighten the keyless to set the time here.
HAND REMOVAL
I have seen tutos using different dial protectors in the past and you can indeed use paper and such but the 3 dollar investment in a proper dial protector was worth it.
Slide the dial protector under the hand stack and pull the hands with a hand puller. Getting inventive with tools that are not correct here will just end up with damaged hands and dials.
DIAL REMOVAL
Flip the movement over and locate the dial feet screws. They are directly behind the movement tab screw holes.
This part was hard to photograph or explain so I'll try my best. The heads of the feet screws are shaped like capital Ds. The dial foot sits on a hole drilled through the case and directly beside the screw head. When the head is turned so the flat part of the screw head is beside the foot the dial can be lifted off. When the screw is turned so the rounded part is squashing into the foot the dial is secured to the movement.
Turn the screw to the correct orientation and remove the dial.
There will be a brass hour wheel washer between the dial and movement. Be sure not to loose it and it's orientation is of little concern.
You can see in this picture at the top right, the brass washer is on the hour wheel.
SECONDS HAND REMOVAL
If by chance you are turning a seconds at 9 Panerai like a 111 into a base like a 112 there are a few tutos on that around. I know for a fact most builders just file the seconds output down. You should really take your time and make sure nothing gets into your movement or go crazy like the guy who built this watch. (NOT me BTW)
CHANGE OUT SWAN NECK SCREW TO A LONGER ONE
This is the simplist and hardest mod wrapped up into one. Just change a screw right? Mostly, you'll see when you do it that you need an extremly steady hand for this.
Pull out a long screw from an H-factory or equivalent movement and the short one.
Here is a comparison shot of both
Here is the "longer" screw installed in the Noob movement
"RE-SETTING" A KEYLESS
The nice thing about this is the movement does not have to be disassembled to re-set it.
Place your movement dial side up. Get a driver, some tweezers and your finger ready.
You can see here that the "arm" has come out of the time setting gear because the keyless screw was turned until the small plate on bottom right here that was attached to the screw no longer is.
First up is remove the one screw that holds the large plate on. There are several things under tention under there so hold it down as you loosen out the screw.
SLOWLY lift up the plate until the U shaped spring "springs". Hopefully it didn't go flying. Remove the large plate, the U shaped spring and the arm that wasn't in the right spot and set them aside.
You can now "re-set" the keyless. Thread the release screw back into the small plate. Don't tighten it, just get it started. Reinstall the crown. You will see a small narrowing in the crown and this where the pin that sits UNDER the small plate will sit.
These pictures will illustrate the importance of this step to help you understand how the keyless actuly works.
Crown out
Crown in
Here is a little video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=48XhK5h4JrM
Now you can reinstall the parts. First place the arm back on it's pivot and into the corect spot on the kyless.
With the crown out
With the crown in
Now maybe the most tricky part. Installing the damn spring. You will have to hold down the arm with your finger while you set the spring with your tweezers. It should look like this when your done.
Then slowly place the top plate. Once it's down hold it there with your finger and pull back the small arm on the large plate to mate with the TOP pin on the small plate. Install and tighten the screw.
Here is the same picture from earlier but you can see what I described above.
Here is a video to show a working keyless.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLUIir0OPw0&feature=youtu.be
INSTALLING DIAL
Don't forget to install your brass washer. Reverse steps from removing dial section.
INSTALLING HANDS
It is good idea to get a proper hands tool so you don't scratch the hands. I install my hands at 3 o clock. I find it easiest but then check them at 12 and 6 to be sure the alignment is great.
Hold up the movement to make sure the hands are flat to the dial then spin them around to verify clearance at all positions.
RE-CASE AND LUBRICATION
Clean everything with compressed air. Getting a watch back together without dust in it is a real trick. You may have to recase your watch several times to get it done without dust.
Line up the movement in the case and slide in the stem. Don't tighten it yet, you need to install the movement tabs first.
Slide a tab into the slot cut into the case, then start to thread the screw but don't tighten it. It's harder than it sounds but with practice isn't that bad. Do the same with the other tab. Once both screws are started then you can tighten them both.
Lubricate the case back o-ring and crown gasket with silicone grease. I've found the kind sold at SCUBA stores is identical to watch makers siliclone and a fraction of the cost.
Reverse steps from before and re-install your crown and tighten then stem screw.
Tighten down your case back, and don't forget to add some purple loctite to your strap, buckle and crown gaurd threads.
Install your favorite strap and your done!
