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new movement new watch

Raddave

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see the smaller balance wheel ?

irwEZf6.jpg

hi-beat-2813.jpg
 
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Raddave

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I'm guessing you didn't see my previous post?

Have you put yours on a timegrapher and verified the beat?

I did not , sorry
 

KJ2020

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see the smaller balance wheel ?

irwEZf6.jpg

hi-beat-2813.jpg

Yikes you have exceedingly low amplitude (normal range around 270 -310) and what about power reserve?

https://wahawatches.com/watch-talk-w...%20the%20watch.

It's cool that you have one of these bro, but it isn't something I would buy into. IDK where you could even get one. I looked pretty extensively and unsuccessfully at one time before finding so many negative things about them.

Edit: A common cause of low amplitude is a weak main spring which is cheap to replace but unfortunately on the DGs to get it out you have to remove the train bridge. Doing that is like opening one of those gag gift boxes that pops out springs and confetti, lol. I just replaced an ETA mainspring last night without taking the movement out of the watch.
 
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Raddave

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Yikes you have exceedingly low amplitude (normal range around 270 -310) and what about power reserve?

https://wahawatches.com/watch-talk-w...%20the%20watch.

It's cool that you have one of these bro, but it isn't something I would buy into. IDK where you could even get one. I looked pretty extensively and unsuccessfully at one time before finding so many negative things about them.

That was as soon as i got it , was just for the BPM check

ive since adjusted the BE down to .2
power reserve i dont know ive never checked it, but once on the wrist it doesnt stop
and fully wound amplitude is now 250 ish

ive had it for 3 years now
 
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KJ2020

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That was as soon as i got it , was just for the BPM check

ive since adjusted the BE down to .2
power reserve i dont know ive never checked it, but once on the wrist it doesnt stop
and fully wound amplitude is now 250 ish

ive had it for 3 years now

Very nice. You got a good one it appears. A movement freak among freak movements, haha.
 
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Raddave

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Very nice. You got a good one it appears. A movement freak among freak movements, haha.

Im thinking the ones stamped 1813 are not made by DG , but yea im not sure where to even source these other than trhough a TD (if thats even possible)
 
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KJ2020

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Im thinking the ones stamped 1813 are not made by DG , but yea im not sure where to even source these other than trhough a TD (if thats even possible)

Yes, the Reddit post talks about those stamped 1813. They are made by Starking who bought the patent from DG when DG gave up on the 4813s. The poster said he got some tech sheets and saw no difference from the 4813s despite Starking claiming otherwise.
 

Raddave

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KJ2020

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this isnt a 4813 , its a 2813-2S i think

Yeah, there were several different iterations and naming conventions used with hb DG's. If I could source a known good one like yours I have one watch in particular I would do it on. But I think it's too risky to try it with as many bad reports there are about reliability. It's also WAY too easy to snap the second hand pinion on a DG (.17mm) when removing and replacing the hand. I've done it several times and then you pretty much toss the whole movement since it's such a bitch to put the train wheels and bridge back together. Replacing the center wheel would be an easy fix otherwise but these are no fun to work on.
 

Raddave

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Yeah, there were several different iterations and naming conventions used with hb DG's. If I could source a known good one like yours I have one watch in particular I would do it on. But I think it's too risky to try it with as many bad reports there are about reliability. It's also WAY too easy to snap the second hand pinion on a DG (.17mm) when removing and replacing the hand. I've done it several times and then you pretty much toss the whole movement since it's such a bitch to put the train wheels and bridge back together. Replacing the center wheel would be an easy fix otherwise but these are no fun to work on.

well youre the expert , i retract my suggestion
 

Halien

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this thread is an rollercoaster of emotions for me :D is there any way i could get 28,800 beat in my watch now? from what ive read now replacing movement with 2836-2 and sourcing hands + dw right? i now feel like selling it and going for arf would be betteras you suggested
 

YellowFin

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this thread is an rollercoaster of emotions for me :D is there any way i could get 28,800 beat in my watch now? from what ive read now replacing movement with 2836-2 and sourcing hands + dw right? i now feel like selling it and going for arf would be betteras you suggested

Haha... that's what happens to me with each rep model thread I read. :hi:

First eight pages: mhmmm, mhmmm, aha, I see... oh, really?
Page 34-45: ... but wait, why can't it have CHS? And isn't VSF/ARF/Noob better? But what about the "5" marker?
Last page (sees wristshot): niiiiiice - let's order that thang!
 
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johloo

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Haha... that's what happens to me with each rep model thread I read. :hi:

First eight pages: mhmmm, mhmmm, aha, I see... oh, really?
Page 34-45: ... but wait, why can't it have CHS? And isn't VSF/ARF/Noob better? But what about the "5" marker?
Last page (sees wristshot): niiiiiice - let's order that thang!

95% of RWI threads summarized
 

SaltyChief

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I must say for 150 this is a really good looking rep. The ARF would be the easier way forward for what you are looking for. If the movement failed you could swap it out with a higher quality movement easily.
 

KJ2020

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IMO the watch is really nice as is. If it were mine I would wear it without worrying about its shortcomings and when you are ready for something better sell this one and put the money toward the new one. You will almost always have something about a rep that you are not completely happy with. This will give you a chance to learn flaw tolerance without risking throwing money away on an uncertain upgrade or ruining a nice rep.
 

Halien

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IMO the watch is really nice as is. If it were mine I would wear it without worrying about its shortcomings and when you are ready for something better sell this one and put the money toward the new one. You will almost always have something about a rep that you are not completely happy with. This will give you a chance to learn flaw tolerance without risking throwing money away on an uncertain upgrade or ruining a nice rep.

I will try to source the eta movement for stability and just wear it as it is you guys added me a lot of confidence
 

Invetero

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Yes, the Reddit post talks about those stamped 1813. They are made by Starking who bought the patent from DG when DG gave up on the 4813s. The poster said he got some tech sheets and saw no difference from the 4813s despite Starking claiming otherwise.

Actually starkings 4813 received one jewel for the main spring which probably helps with power reserve, and 4 more for the tini tiny autowinding gear to improve efficiency, these movements were regarded as unreliable in the past but starking has been producing watches for 2 years now with great feedback (as I can see from aliexpress) So I think they are now a great alternative to convert a 2813 rep into a high beat without having to swap hands and movement holder.