*Picture credit AskMeAgain*
INTRODUCTION - Rolex Replicas 101
Welcome to Rolex Replicas 101, where we will take you through your first steps in understanding Rolex replicas. We will discuss some of the abbreviations that you will come across as well as some basics of cost vs. quality. You will find very quickly that there is a broad spectrum of accuracy in all different Rolex replicas.
The questions that we hear most often are;
- Who has the best sub?
- Can someone help me find the best version of this Rolex?
- How do I find BK or TC?
- What is the difference between Swiss or Clone movement?
- Should I buy a 21j or 2836 version?
- Is this a good dealer to buy from??
If this is your first time visiting the forum then I suggest that you start here (New Members and Welcome Area).
Within here you can find general discussion section, noobie guides and FAQs
And of course a list of all our RWI Trusted Dealers.
Beginners Guide on how to find the Best Replica Watch by Thinkbachs
For a comprehensive overview of the Rolex brand please have a read though this thread
100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger
*Compiled by justloungin*
~ WIKI Directory ~
Rolex Daytona - History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
Rolex Yacht-Master I & II - History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
Rolex Day-Date I & II / Datejust I & II + Turn-O-Graph - History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
Explorer I & II / Milguass - History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
GMT Master I & II - History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
Rolex SeaDweller and DSSD- History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
Rolex Submariner- History / Function / Genuine models and Replica availability
Rolex & Tudor Vintage Guide - History / Function / DIY Guides / Parts information
ABBREVIATIONS - Glossary of terms
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you try to search the forum using the standard search tool you will not be able to search for abbreviations or words shorter than four letters. This means that searching for 'TC' or 'WM9' will yield no results.
Solution: Scroll to the bottom of your screen, change the style of the forum to VB Standard. Scroll again to the bottom of the screen and there is now a Google search bar. You can use this to search for shorter words.
Master Forum Terms & Abbreviations list
*Credit Fakemaster
- AR - Anti-reflective: denoting a chemical coating on the crystal (or cyclops) that reduces glare and reflections.
- Bezel Insert - Aluminium or Ceramic ring installed in the bezel
- BK (BKLM) - BKLM1234 is a low volume dealer who supplies modified Noobfactory and TW (Taiwan) case sets (BK's Repertorium Section)
- BP - BP factory, or Big Pilot factory produces Ceramic submariners and DSSD with excellent quality.
- CG - Crownguards; protect the crown from damage
- Clark - Supplier of aftermarket Rolex crystals and parts (Clark Watch Parts eBay store)
- Click Spring - Small ratchet spring installed underneath a bezel to provide single or dual way rotation
- CP - Canon Pin/Pinion; portion of watch mechanism that connects the hands to the movement.
- Cyclops - Magnifying lens attached to the crystal; genuine magnification = 2.5x
- DW - Datewheel
- DWO - Datewheel overlay; a printed overlay attached to the regular datewheel to give correct alignment or font
- Easylink - Clasp found on GMTIIc, Explorer I 39mm, Milguass and Daytona
- End-Link - Portion of the bracelet that connects to the case; sometimes hollow, sometimes solid
- Fliplock - Clasp found on Submariner 16610 and other older models
- Franken - Franken watches are those with additional genuine parts added, ie Crown/Crystal/Dial
- GMT - In reference to Explorer II, GMT I & II with the fourth hand running round face once every 24 hours.
- Glidelock - Clasp on DSSD and Ceramic Submariner
- Keyless Works - Gearing that allows you to set the time and date via the crown
- LEC - Laser Etched Crown: small Rolex crown visible at the 6 o'clock position of the sapphire crystal
- Mid-Link - Centre section of the bracelet; sometimes hollow sometimes solid
- Noobfactory - One of the major Rolex building factories, credited also with very accurate Panerai
- Pearl - Luminous 'dot' installed in some Rolex bezel inserts
- QC - Quality Control (The Purpose of QC Pics)
- Rehaut - The portion of case visible between the dial and the crystal, in newer models this is engraved
- Sean - AKA ETASwiss, small volume high end case sets ETA Swiss (AKA Sean)
- SEL - Solid End Links; portion of the bracelet that connects to the case
- SS - Stainless Steel (SS 316L vs. 316F vs. 904L- A technical study *Award winning post*)
- Sternkreuz - Supplier of aftermarket Rolex crystals and parts
- TC - TC is a low-volume dealer supplying high end Submariner and Yacht-Master case sets (TCs independant blog/website)
- WM9 - High accuracy pieces with ability to take gen parts, no longer in production. For more information on this please read this thread by BKLM1234 (Here's what happened to WM9)
~ Who are all these dealers? ~
Quite often on the forum you will hear dealers referred to by their names or shortened names. This can sometimes be confusing for new people to the forum so here's a list of the ones that you will hear most frequently (including some modders).
- Shorthand name - Username - Forum Section
- Andrew - Not on RWI - Not on RWI - aka Cartel
- Angus - Puretime - Puretime Watches
- BK - BKLM1234 - BKs Repertorium
- Jackson - jacksontse_MT - Jackson Tse
- John - TimeWillTell - Lion City Watches
- Josh - Not on RWI - Not on RWI - aka Cartel
- Mark - TimeShopNet - TSwatch International
- Reg - Narikaa - Narikaa
- River - River - River
- Robbie - Not on RWI - Not on RWI
- Ryan - ryanwayer - Intime.co
- Sead -Sead1999 - SuperMirrors
- Sean - Not on RWI - Not on RWI
- Sora - Sora - ShineWatch
- Stan - WackoBirdKeeper - WBK Time
- Thomas - TCtc670207 - TC Watch Parts
- Tony - Asian7750 - Asian7750
- Toro - ToroBravo - ToroBravo
- Trevor - Trevor - Trevor Watches
MOVEMENTS - Basic Concepts
~ 21j (DG2813 / DG4813 / DG2812 / DG4803) ~
21j Movement Tech Forum
Ofrei Chinese Movements List
Asian 21j Disassembly Video in HD
The most basic of all movements to be found in Rolex Replicas. This is a cheap, workhorse movement. Works at low beat (21,600 bph) as opposed to high beat movements (2836 etc). Can be replaced for as little as $10-30 USD.
The DG4813 is a variation that runs at high beat. This is not a direct drop in replacement due to the canon pinion height and would need to be modified to work with most Rolex replicas. These were available for a short period of time in some Rolex replicas but seem to have been out of production for a while. You can still purchase a DG4813 from regular supply companies (CousinsUK/Ofrei) but would need to do a canon pinion swap with a DG2813 with high canon pins.
New project samples ready! High beat 28800 21j Asian
The DG3804 is a true functioning GMT movement working at low beat and is accurate for hand stack and very close to the correct beat rate for older GMT movement Rolex watches.
This is the variation most likely seen in the DayDate replicas and is, as above, low beat but with day as well as date function.
~ Asian Clone (2836 / 2824) ~
2836/2824 Tech Section
Asian 2824 Clone
High beat movement based on the ETA 2824. Reliable high beat movement.
Asian 2836 Clone
High beat movement based on the ETA 2836 with day and date functions. Primary choice for most Rolex replicas.
ETA 2836-2 vs Clone - how to tell "Swiss" from "Asian"
Asian "Superclone" (2836 / 2824)
Not a lot of discussion has been had on these new 'superclone' movements. In understanding the differences between Clone/Superclone/ETA movements you should start here ("Swiss" ETA / Asian Superclones / Asian Clones – What’s the best choice?). In that thread you will find links to teardowns done on this vs Swiss movements. I will quote here from the conclusions of the teardown threads.
~ A3135 Clone ~
3135/3131 Tech Section
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
This is a clone movement that has been 'dressed' up to look like a Rolex 3135 movement. It is considered to be less reliable than the standard clone movement as it has been modified beyond the original specifications. The screw holding the rotor in place is notoriously weak. Please read this thread for more information (3135 Gen vs Rep)
~ A3156 Clone ~
The same stipulations apply to the A3156 Clone movement as do the A3135 movement. This is a clone ETA2836 that has been made to emulate the 3156 movement found in the Rolex Day-Date watches.
3156 clone questions
~ A3131 Clone ~
As above this is the non-date version of the tarted up clone movements. You can find this movement in the Explorer I and Milgauss replicas.
~ A3187 Clone ~
This is the GMT movement that you will find in some of the new Explorer II 42mm 216570 replicas. I have not seen this movement in any other replicas so far.
~ SA3135 Clone ~
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
*Picture credit 1234_Cool_Uncle*
This SA3135 movement was originally described as being a proper clone of the 3135 Rolex movement. And in some ways it is. The V1 of this movement is notorious for having a weak stem (All about SA3135 movement). This has possibly been remedied in V2. There is also a second version out there which is slightly different. Both are reported to take gen dial, hands, and datewheels but information is light on the ground. There is also another version that TC reported on being in production which due to privacy reasons he has decided to withhold the publishing of pictures.
There is more information / discussion on the SA3135 in this thread
Questions on the Rolex 3135
Please also see Warrcrafts thread on
Rolex SA3135 Movement Observations.
Some great comparison photos between the SA3135 and the genuine Rolex 3135 movement by 1234_cool_uncle can be found in this thread
Compare with the 3135s
~ A7750 (Seconds at 6 / Second at 9) ~
7750/7753 Tech Section
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
This movement is found in the Daytona replicas currently available. It comes in two variations. With running seconds at 9 o'clock and running seconds at 6 o'clock. The seconds at 6 movement is notorious for being unreliable due to the additional gearing needed to transfer the running seconds from 9 to 6. There are new versions out that have 29 jewels and an increase in stability.
For information on the upgraded version with 29j movement please read this awesome thread by 14060 or 16610?
The "New and Improved" Seconds-at-6 Movement Explained
The seconds at 9 movement is the native configuration of the 7750 movement and doesn't represent a significant danger of failure. These are present in some replicas representing the Daytona from the period when it used the Zenith El Primero movement.
What Does an A7750 Look Like Disassembled? by 14060 or 16610?
~ Venus 75 / Lemania / ST-19 ~
Seagull Tech Section
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
This is a bi-compax movement (meaning just two subdials, 7750 has 3). This often means that watches with this movement have a false register that follows the hour hand around the dial. You will find this movement in the vintage Daytona replicas. It is a sturdy and reliable movement with no serious issues. Modifications can be done on the faux subdial to freeze it in place.
PRICES - How much should I pay?
~ 21j (DG2813 / DG4813 / DG2812 / DG4803) ~
21j Movement Tech Forum
Ofrei Chinese Movements List
Asian 21j Disassembly Video in HD
The most basic of all movements to be found in Rolex Replicas. This is a cheap, workhorse movement. Works at low beat (21,600 bph) as opposed to high beat movements (2836 etc). Can be replaced for as little as $10-30 USD.
The DG4813 is a variation that runs at high beat. This is not a direct drop in replacement due to the canon pinion height and would need to be modified to work with most Rolex replicas. These were available for a short period of time in some Rolex replicas but seem to have been out of production for a while. You can still purchase a DG4813 from regular supply companies (CousinsUK/Ofrei) but would need to do a canon pinion swap with a DG2813 with high canon pins.
New project samples ready! High beat 28800 21j Asian
The DG3804 is a true functioning GMT movement working at low beat and is accurate for hand stack and very close to the correct beat rate for older GMT movement Rolex watches.
This is the variation most likely seen in the DayDate replicas and is, as above, low beat but with day as well as date function.
~ Asian Clone (2836 / 2824) ~
2836/2824 Tech Section
Asian 2824 Clone
High beat movement based on the ETA 2824. Reliable high beat movement.
Asian 2836 Clone
High beat movement based on the ETA 2836 with day and date functions. Primary choice for most Rolex replicas.
ETA 2836-2 vs Clone - how to tell "Swiss" from "Asian"
Asian "Superclone" (2836 / 2824)
Not a lot of discussion has been had on these new 'superclone' movements. In understanding the differences between Clone/Superclone/ETA movements you should start here ("Swiss" ETA / Asian Superclones / Asian Clones – What’s the best choice?). In that thread you will find links to teardowns done on this vs Swiss movements. I will quote here from the conclusions of the teardown threads.
~ A3135 Clone ~
3135/3131 Tech Section
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
This is a clone movement that has been 'dressed' up to look like a Rolex 3135 movement. It is considered to be less reliable than the standard clone movement as it has been modified beyond the original specifications. The screw holding the rotor in place is notoriously weak. Please read this thread for more information (3135 Gen vs Rep)
~ A3156 Clone ~
The same stipulations apply to the A3156 Clone movement as do the A3135 movement. This is a clone ETA2836 that has been made to emulate the 3156 movement found in the Rolex Day-Date watches.
3156 clone questions
~ A3131 Clone ~
As above this is the non-date version of the tarted up clone movements. You can find this movement in the Explorer I and Milgauss replicas.
~ A3187 Clone ~
This is the GMT movement that you will find in some of the new Explorer II 42mm 216570 replicas. I have not seen this movement in any other replicas so far.
~ SA3135 Clone ~
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
*Picture credit 1234_Cool_Uncle*
This SA3135 movement was originally described as being a proper clone of the 3135 Rolex movement. And in some ways it is. The V1 of this movement is notorious for having a weak stem (All about SA3135 movement). This has possibly been remedied in V2. There is also a second version out there which is slightly different. Both are reported to take gen dial, hands, and datewheels but information is light on the ground. There is also another version that TC reported on being in production which due to privacy reasons he has decided to withhold the publishing of pictures.
There is more information / discussion on the SA3135 in this thread
Questions on the Rolex 3135
Please also see Warrcrafts thread on
Rolex SA3135 Movement Observations.
Some great comparison photos between the SA3135 and the genuine Rolex 3135 movement by 1234_cool_uncle can be found in this thread
Compare with the 3135s
~ A7750 (Seconds at 6 / Second at 9) ~
7750/7753 Tech Section
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
This movement is found in the Daytona replicas currently available. It comes in two variations. With running seconds at 9 o'clock and running seconds at 6 o'clock. The seconds at 6 movement is notorious for being unreliable due to the additional gearing needed to transfer the running seconds from 9 to 6. There are new versions out that have 29 jewels and an increase in stability.
For information on the upgraded version with 29j movement please read this awesome thread by 14060 or 16610?
The "New and Improved" Seconds-at-6 Movement Explained
The seconds at 9 movement is the native configuration of the 7750 movement and doesn't represent a significant danger of failure. These are present in some replicas representing the Daytona from the period when it used the Zenith El Primero movement.
What Does an A7750 Look Like Disassembled? by 14060 or 16610?
~ Venus 75 / Lemania / ST-19 ~
Seagull Tech Section
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
This is a bi-compax movement (meaning just two subdials, 7750 has 3). This often means that watches with this movement have a false register that follows the hour hand around the dial. You will find this movement in the vintage Daytona replicas. It is a sturdy and reliable movement with no serious issues. Modifications can be done on the faux subdial to freeze it in place.
PRICES - How much should I pay?
The bigger question is how much do you have to spend. You can start in the sub $100 range and go all the way up to over $1000 for franken or rare pieces. Here's a rough guide of what you can expect for your money.
~ $1-$99 USD ~
Most sub $100 USD watches are going to be either 21j models or Quartz. These tend to have poor construction, inaccuracies and are at the low end of quality materials. They will generally have mineral glass crystals rather than sapphire. As a result of the lower cost movements in these watches they will tend to be low beat, and generally inaccurate to the genuine Rolex beat rate of 28,800 bph.
If it is a model with complications; Daytona with chronograph, Yachtmaster II with timer etc. Then these are more than likely faux complications. This means that they will not function as per the genuine watch. For example the Daytona which uses the 21j movement (also called Asian Automatic) has sub-dials that will represent the day/date/week and can be moved by the pushers. But it is not a chronograph. See pictures below.
*Picture credit Timeshops.net*
Also in this price range are low end replicas of vintage models. Because the 21j movement is close in beat rate to the original movements they are preferred. It is also a good base for customising or 'vintaging' an older Rolex model.
- 21j or Quartz movement
- Mineral Glass
- Innacurate construction
- Vintage base watches
- Faux complications
~ $100-$200 ~
Now we are entering the region of good replicas. The higher end 21j models will tail off in this price range and you enter clone movement territory. Once you hit the $150+ range you are almost definitely going to be receiving a watch fitted with a clone movement. Either a 2824 or a 2836 variation. It is unlikely that you will find an A7750 movement in this price range without some sort of dealer discount. In combination with better movements you will likely find better construction, sapphire crystal. In addition to this they will generally be more accurate than the cheaper models.
- High end 21j / Swiss Quartz
- Clone movements
- High beat movements
- Sapphire crystals
- Better and more accurate construction
- Decent lume (but generally not superlume)
*Picture credit Timeshops.net*
~ $200-$350 ~
This is the price range where it starts to get a bit more interesting. How much more watch are you getting for that extra $250 over the sub $99 range? Well at the lower end of this price range you are getting watches with clone movements, sapphire crystals, much better accuracy to genuine watches and generally better construction. Creeping into this price range is also the watches with claimed 'super-lume'.
You will also find the A7750 / Lemania movement watches in this price range with working chronograph functions. At the higher range you are getting Swiss (or Superclone) movements and also some of the A3135 movements.
- Clone / Swiss Movements
- A7750 / Lemania Movements
- Working Chronographs
- A3135 Movements
- Sapphire crystals
- More accurate case set
- Superlume
For example, here is the top end of the budget at $348. This Seadweller 16600 comes both superlumed and with the A3135 movement as well as the usual upgrades of sapphire crystal and a much better case construction.
*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*
~ $350-$500 ~
So now we are getting into the realms of expensive replicas. This is where you find the likes of A3135/SA3135 movements, NOS SW220 and ETA movements bought in by smaller specialised dealers. You start to see the offerings from BKLM entering the picture at around the $370 mark for his Explorer II's up towards the modified ceramic noobfactory submariners at around $420.
All of the watches in this price range start to boast the same level of quality. Be it accuracy of construction to the genuine watches, or improved movements (guaranteed Swiss from BKLM) to upgraded QC control. This really is the higher end of unmodified Rolex replicas and the start of either modified or "Boutique" dealer replica offerings.
~ $500 upwards! ~
From here on the sky is the limit. You stop getting standard dealer offerings at this level and start entering the world of custom work, franken pieces, rare and discontinued pieces and the small offerings from "Boutique" dealers (TC, Sean, and BKLM).
For more information you can visit BK's section: BKs Repertorium
Or TCs independent website: TCs independant blog/website
Sean at ETASwiss also does high end case sets of Submariners and Yachtmasters: ETASwiss.net AKA Sean
There's a lot of discussion on these rare and high end pieces, especially on the discontinued WM9 watches.
For more discussion you can read here: Used WM9 Prices still out of hand!
Some frequently asked questions
How do I tell Rolex crowns apart?
Please visit this great thread for lots more information on the subject:
Rolex Crowns - How do you tell which is which? by justlounging
How do I use a GMT watch?
"Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is a time system originally referring to mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London, which later became adopted as a global time standard."
Greenwich Mean Time
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Having a GMT hand on a watch DOES NOT mean that you have to leave it indicating the time in the UK. It just means that it has the ability to track a second time zone should you wish. The fourth hand on the Explorer II and GMT replicas functions as an hour hand that rotates round the dial once every 24 hours. So many people make using and setting a GMT hand a complicated procedure when it really isn't.
As a general note for ALL automatic watches: do NOT change the date or GMT hand between 10pm and 2am. This is when the date change mechanism is starting to engage to automatically change the date. Adjusting the date or GMT hand during this time risks damaging the date change mechanism.
On a GMT movement you have 4 positions to the crown.
1: Screwed on to the crown tube
2: Unwind crown until free from tube - winding position
3: Pull out 1 stop - date and GMT hand setting position
4: Pull out 2 stop - time setting position
In position 2 winding clockwise will wind the mainspring of the watch. Counter-clockwise does nothing.
In position 3 winding clockwise will advance the date, winding counter-clockwise will turn the GMT hand.
In position 4 winding clockwise will turn the hands backwards, winding counter-clockwise will advance the time.
You can use the 24 hour hand in two ways. Firstly you can set it to your home time zone. Whilst like this you can read the 24 hour clock from the bezel. The GMT hand will point to the 24 hour time. So if it says '10' it's 10am. If it points to '16' it is 4pm.
Secondly you can move the GMT forward or backwards in relation to your own timezone. This way you can track any other time zone in the world either +12 hours or -12 hours.
Thanks to gioarmani7428 for this useful information:
Not many people know that on a GMT bezel, the wearer can use the 24-hour dial for approximate navigation anywhere between the Tropic of Cancer and the Arctic Polar Circle. But, both the 12 and the 24 hour hand must be synchronized to display local time.
Method 1: When laid horizontally, the dial will head North if the 24 hour hand is pointed towards the sun.
Method 2: If the 12 hour hand is pointed at the sun, the 24 hour hand will point North.
The margin of error directly depends on the difference between local official time and actual local solar time, which is why you have to be between the Tropic of Cancer & the Arctic Polar Circle. But one doesn't need to get too much in the technical details for approximate North, East, South, West navigation.
Little known fact about GMT watches by gioarmani7428
What is the difference between a 'Chronometer' and a 'Chronograph'?
This is a very common question since people often confuse the two. While their names may sound similar, these terms have very little in common.
Chronometer is the term used to describe a highly-precise timepiece which, after rigorous testing, has received an official timing certificate from the official Swiss timing bureau Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC). Thus, it is a rating or accolade given for the watch's accuracy.
A chronograph on the other hand is a timepiece that, in addition to the normal time telling functions, also performs a seperate time measuring function such as a stop watch -- with a seperate seconds hand which can be started, stopped and reset to zero, via push-buttons on the side of the case. Please do not confuse 'chronographs' with 'complications' (which are described below). While all chronographs can be considered complications, not all complications are in fact chronographs.
What do 'complications' mean when referring to a wristwatch?
A complication is described as any additional function the wristwatch performs beyond basic time telling (i.e. hour, minute and second). A common example of wristwatch complications are calendar models which display the day/date. Additional complications include chronograph models, whereas the watch performs like a basic "stop watch" (as described above). Other complications worth mentioning are: second time zone, moonphase and alarms.
What does the "T" designation at the bottom of the dial mean?
This refers to the chemical used on the hands and hour markers, which causes them to illuminate. Around 1950, watchmakers started using Tritium as their luminous material, and began indicating the amount of that radioactive material with a designation at the bottom of the dial (i.e. T SWISS T or SWISS T < 25). Around 1998, watchmakers changed the designation to read SWISS or SWISS MADE, when they replaced the Tritium with LumiNova (an organic, non-radioactive chemical), as their source of luminescence.
T SWISS MADE T indicates that the radioactive material Tritium is present on the wristwatch. The amount of radioactive material emitted is limited to a maximum of 25 milliCurie.
SWISS T < 25 more specifically indicates that the wristwatch emits an amount of Tritium that is less than the 25 milliCurie limit.
SWISS T 25 indicates that the wristwatch emits the maximum allowable amount of Tritium (i.e. a full 25 milliCurie).
SWISS (or) SWISS MADE on wristwatches produced after (around) 1998, indicates the presence of LumiNova as the luminous material. (Please Note: "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" was also the indication on wristwatches produced prior to the 1950s, when Radium was used as the luminous material. However, at that time "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" simply indicated that the watch was, in fact, made in Switzerland.
Why is the Day-Date sometimes called a "President"?
Actually, Rolex has never referred to the Day-Date watch as a "President". However, the BRACELET we are used to seeing on the Day-Date is known as a President, since one was fitted to President Dwight D. Eisenhower's watch during a service overhaul in 1956 -- the same year the Day-Date was first introduced.
And as a little known trivia fact, President Eisenhower's watch wasn't even a Day-Date... it was an 18kt Datejust given to him by Rolex in 1946 to celebrate the WWII victory -- and Winston Churchill was also given one at the same time.
What kind of Stainless Steel does Rolex use in their watch cases?
SS 316L vs. 316F vs. 904L- A technical study *Award winning post*
While most high-end watch companies utilize 1.4435 (or 316L) Stainless Steel, Rolex uses 1.4439 (or 904L) Stainless Steel. While they both have the same grade of hardness, 904L has a slighytly higher nickel discharge, and thus a slightly higher resistance to corrosion. 904L is mainly used in industry applications handling chlorides, sulfer dioxide gas or other toxic materials. While this may sound like overkill for use with wristwatches, it's just another exaple of over'engineering on the part of Rolex where only the best will do.
What is Rolesor?
This is a Rolex term to indicate the case/bracelet configuration of Stainless Steel and Gold.
What is Rolesium?
This is a Rolex term to indicate the case/bracelet configuration of Stainless Steel and Platinum.
Is there anything I can do to make my watch run a few seconds fast/slow each day?
If your watch is off a few seconds per day (fast or slow) you can regulate it depending on the position you leave the watch at night when you're not wearing it, as follows:
By leaving the watch's dial (or face) up can cause it to gain (or run fast) up to a few seconds per day. On the other hand, by leaving the watch's dial (or face) down can cause it to lose (or run slow) upto a few seconds per day.
What is an SEL?
Solid End Links (or SEL) refers to the final link on select modern Rolex bracelets. On these SEL bracelets, the final link is made from a solid piece of metal where the bracelet attaches to the watch's case (or head). This new design makes for a stronger bracelet and a cleaner look. On older bracelets, they utilized a hollow end piece to attach the bracelet to the watch's case
What is a "Nipple Dial"?
This is a variation of the regular dial markers seen on vintage Submariners and GMTs. See the picture below for reference.
What is a "Serti Dial"?
The French (or Swiss) word 'Serti' translates as 'inset'. A Diamond or other gem-set dial is thus described in the Rolex catalogue as 'Cadran Serti', meaning, inset dial.
What Do The Numbers Mean... Model numbers explained
Rolex model numbers currently four, five or six digits long. The first two or three describes the type of watch. If the watch has five digits, the second from the last describes (some exceptions) the type of bezel and the last describes the material that the watch is made from.
Typically the reference number only changes when major changes are introduced to the watch. If only minor changes are made a "1" is added to the beginning of the old reference. So in the early 2000s when the 14270 Explorer was remodeled only slightly it became the 114270. Major changes such as the introduction of a larger case or major cosmetic differences will result in a totally new reference number all together.
Type of Watch:
Oyster Perpetual - 10, 140, 142
Airking - 55 & 140
Date - 15 & 150
Datejust - 16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind - 62
Daytona Cosmograph - 165, 1165
Explorer II - 165
Sea Dweller - 16 & 166
Submariner - 16, 166 & 168
Submariner (no date) - 55 & 140
GMT Master - 16, 65, 167
GMT Master II - 167, 1167
Oysterquartz Datejust - 170
Oysterquartz Day-Date - 190
Day-Date (President) - 65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Yachtmaster - 166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ - 68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual - 67, 671, 672
Ladies Date - 65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust - 65, 69, 691 & 692
Type of Bezel (does not include Sports/Professional models)
0 = Smooth/Domed
1 = Engine Turned
2 = Engraved
3 = Fluted
4 = Bark
5 = Pyramid (Not Used)
6 = Turn-O-Graph
7 = Various
8 = Special (Not Currently Used)
9 = Open (Not Currently Used)
Type of Material...
0 = Stainless Steel
1 = Yellow gold Placor (Tudor)
22 = Stainless steel and Platinum (Yachtmaster)
3 = Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor)
4 = Stainless Steel and 18k White gold (White Rolesor)
5 = Gold Shell (No Longer Used)
6 = Platinum
7 = 14k Yellow gold (No Longer Used)
8 = 18k Yellow gold
9 = 18k White gold
What clasp should my Rolex have?
Note: You can change the older style fliplock clasp for the newer Glidelock clasp on most Rolex replicas without issue.
You can also see all the current bracelet codes here: Rolex bracelet references by Carlton
Old clasp vs. Glidelock by Bonesey
Historical Timeline and Listing of Technical Achievement
How do I tell Rolex crowns apart?
Please visit this great thread for lots more information on the subject:
Rolex Crowns - How do you tell which is which? by justlounging
How do I use a GMT watch?
"Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is a time system originally referring to mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London, which later became adopted as a global time standard."
Greenwich Mean Time
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Having a GMT hand on a watch DOES NOT mean that you have to leave it indicating the time in the UK. It just means that it has the ability to track a second time zone should you wish. The fourth hand on the Explorer II and GMT replicas functions as an hour hand that rotates round the dial once every 24 hours. So many people make using and setting a GMT hand a complicated procedure when it really isn't.
As a general note for ALL automatic watches: do NOT change the date or GMT hand between 10pm and 2am. This is when the date change mechanism is starting to engage to automatically change the date. Adjusting the date or GMT hand during this time risks damaging the date change mechanism.
On a GMT movement you have 4 positions to the crown.
1: Screwed on to the crown tube
2: Unwind crown until free from tube - winding position
3: Pull out 1 stop - date and GMT hand setting position
4: Pull out 2 stop - time setting position
In position 2 winding clockwise will wind the mainspring of the watch. Counter-clockwise does nothing.
In position 3 winding clockwise will advance the date, winding counter-clockwise will turn the GMT hand.
In position 4 winding clockwise will turn the hands backwards, winding counter-clockwise will advance the time.
You can use the 24 hour hand in two ways. Firstly you can set it to your home time zone. Whilst like this you can read the 24 hour clock from the bezel. The GMT hand will point to the 24 hour time. So if it says '10' it's 10am. If it points to '16' it is 4pm.
Secondly you can move the GMT forward or backwards in relation to your own timezone. This way you can track any other time zone in the world either +12 hours or -12 hours.
Thanks to gioarmani7428 for this useful information:
Not many people know that on a GMT bezel, the wearer can use the 24-hour dial for approximate navigation anywhere between the Tropic of Cancer and the Arctic Polar Circle. But, both the 12 and the 24 hour hand must be synchronized to display local time.
Method 1: When laid horizontally, the dial will head North if the 24 hour hand is pointed towards the sun.
Method 2: If the 12 hour hand is pointed at the sun, the 24 hour hand will point North.
The margin of error directly depends on the difference between local official time and actual local solar time, which is why you have to be between the Tropic of Cancer & the Arctic Polar Circle. But one doesn't need to get too much in the technical details for approximate North, East, South, West navigation.
Little known fact about GMT watches by gioarmani7428
What is the difference between a 'Chronometer' and a 'Chronograph'?
This is a very common question since people often confuse the two. While their names may sound similar, these terms have very little in common.
Chronometer is the term used to describe a highly-precise timepiece which, after rigorous testing, has received an official timing certificate from the official Swiss timing bureau Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC). Thus, it is a rating or accolade given for the watch's accuracy.
A chronograph on the other hand is a timepiece that, in addition to the normal time telling functions, also performs a seperate time measuring function such as a stop watch -- with a seperate seconds hand which can be started, stopped and reset to zero, via push-buttons on the side of the case. Please do not confuse 'chronographs' with 'complications' (which are described below). While all chronographs can be considered complications, not all complications are in fact chronographs.
What do 'complications' mean when referring to a wristwatch?
A complication is described as any additional function the wristwatch performs beyond basic time telling (i.e. hour, minute and second). A common example of wristwatch complications are calendar models which display the day/date. Additional complications include chronograph models, whereas the watch performs like a basic "stop watch" (as described above). Other complications worth mentioning are: second time zone, moonphase and alarms.
What does the "T" designation at the bottom of the dial mean?
This refers to the chemical used on the hands and hour markers, which causes them to illuminate. Around 1950, watchmakers started using Tritium as their luminous material, and began indicating the amount of that radioactive material with a designation at the bottom of the dial (i.e. T SWISS T or SWISS T < 25). Around 1998, watchmakers changed the designation to read SWISS or SWISS MADE, when they replaced the Tritium with LumiNova (an organic, non-radioactive chemical), as their source of luminescence.
T SWISS MADE T indicates that the radioactive material Tritium is present on the wristwatch. The amount of radioactive material emitted is limited to a maximum of 25 milliCurie.
SWISS T < 25 more specifically indicates that the wristwatch emits an amount of Tritium that is less than the 25 milliCurie limit.
SWISS T 25 indicates that the wristwatch emits the maximum allowable amount of Tritium (i.e. a full 25 milliCurie).
SWISS (or) SWISS MADE on wristwatches produced after (around) 1998, indicates the presence of LumiNova as the luminous material. (Please Note: "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" was also the indication on wristwatches produced prior to the 1950s, when Radium was used as the luminous material. However, at that time "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" simply indicated that the watch was, in fact, made in Switzerland.
Why is the Day-Date sometimes called a "President"?
Actually, Rolex has never referred to the Day-Date watch as a "President". However, the BRACELET we are used to seeing on the Day-Date is known as a President, since one was fitted to President Dwight D. Eisenhower's watch during a service overhaul in 1956 -- the same year the Day-Date was first introduced.
And as a little known trivia fact, President Eisenhower's watch wasn't even a Day-Date... it was an 18kt Datejust given to him by Rolex in 1946 to celebrate the WWII victory -- and Winston Churchill was also given one at the same time.
What kind of Stainless Steel does Rolex use in their watch cases?
SS 316L vs. 316F vs. 904L- A technical study *Award winning post*
While most high-end watch companies utilize 1.4435 (or 316L) Stainless Steel, Rolex uses 1.4439 (or 904L) Stainless Steel. While they both have the same grade of hardness, 904L has a slighytly higher nickel discharge, and thus a slightly higher resistance to corrosion. 904L is mainly used in industry applications handling chlorides, sulfer dioxide gas or other toxic materials. While this may sound like overkill for use with wristwatches, it's just another exaple of over'engineering on the part of Rolex where only the best will do.
What is Rolesor?
This is a Rolex term to indicate the case/bracelet configuration of Stainless Steel and Gold.
What is Rolesium?
This is a Rolex term to indicate the case/bracelet configuration of Stainless Steel and Platinum.
Is there anything I can do to make my watch run a few seconds fast/slow each day?
If your watch is off a few seconds per day (fast or slow) you can regulate it depending on the position you leave the watch at night when you're not wearing it, as follows:
By leaving the watch's dial (or face) up can cause it to gain (or run fast) up to a few seconds per day. On the other hand, by leaving the watch's dial (or face) down can cause it to lose (or run slow) upto a few seconds per day.
What is an SEL?
Solid End Links (or SEL) refers to the final link on select modern Rolex bracelets. On these SEL bracelets, the final link is made from a solid piece of metal where the bracelet attaches to the watch's case (or head). This new design makes for a stronger bracelet and a cleaner look. On older bracelets, they utilized a hollow end piece to attach the bracelet to the watch's case
What is a "Nipple Dial"?
This is a variation of the regular dial markers seen on vintage Submariners and GMTs. See the picture below for reference.
What is a "Serti Dial"?
The French (or Swiss) word 'Serti' translates as 'inset'. A Diamond or other gem-set dial is thus described in the Rolex catalogue as 'Cadran Serti', meaning, inset dial.
What Do The Numbers Mean... Model numbers explained
Rolex model numbers currently four, five or six digits long. The first two or three describes the type of watch. If the watch has five digits, the second from the last describes (some exceptions) the type of bezel and the last describes the material that the watch is made from.
Typically the reference number only changes when major changes are introduced to the watch. If only minor changes are made a "1" is added to the beginning of the old reference. So in the early 2000s when the 14270 Explorer was remodeled only slightly it became the 114270. Major changes such as the introduction of a larger case or major cosmetic differences will result in a totally new reference number all together.
Type of Watch:
Oyster Perpetual - 10, 140, 142
Airking - 55 & 140
Date - 15 & 150
Datejust - 16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind - 62
Daytona Cosmograph - 165, 1165
Explorer II - 165
Sea Dweller - 16 & 166
Submariner - 16, 166 & 168
Submariner (no date) - 55 & 140
GMT Master - 16, 65, 167
GMT Master II - 167, 1167
Oysterquartz Datejust - 170
Oysterquartz Day-Date - 190
Day-Date (President) - 65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Yachtmaster - 166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ - 68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual - 67, 671, 672
Ladies Date - 65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust - 65, 69, 691 & 692
Type of Bezel (does not include Sports/Professional models)
0 = Smooth/Domed
1 = Engine Turned
2 = Engraved
3 = Fluted
4 = Bark
5 = Pyramid (Not Used)
6 = Turn-O-Graph
7 = Various
8 = Special (Not Currently Used)
9 = Open (Not Currently Used)
Type of Material...
0 = Stainless Steel
1 = Yellow gold Placor (Tudor)
22 = Stainless steel and Platinum (Yachtmaster)
3 = Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor)
4 = Stainless Steel and 18k White gold (White Rolesor)
5 = Gold Shell (No Longer Used)
6 = Platinum
7 = 14k Yellow gold (No Longer Used)
8 = 18k Yellow gold
9 = 18k White gold
What clasp should my Rolex have?
Note: You can change the older style fliplock clasp for the newer Glidelock clasp on most Rolex replicas without issue.
You can also see all the current bracelet codes here: Rolex bracelet references by Carlton
Old clasp vs. Glidelock by Bonesey
Historical Timeline and Listing of Technical Achievement
1905 Founding of “Wilsdorf & Davis.” A distribution company of watchcases and other horological items headquartered in London.
1908 Hans Wilsdorf registers the Rolex trademark located at La Chaux-de Fonds, later moving to Bienne.
1910 Rolex obtains the first Official Swiss Chronometer certificate
1914 Rolex obtains a Class “A” certificate, Kew Observatory in English as the first wristwatch to outperform a pocket watch.
1919 Hans Wilsdorf moves the company office to 18 Rue du Marche, Geneva and establishes the manufacturing company, Montres Rolex S.A.
1926 Rolex patents the screw-down crown, and creates the oyster case with a screw down caseback and bezel.
1927 Mercedes Gleitze swims across the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster. The swim lasted 15 ¼ hours. Serial Numbers Engraved On Oyster Case
1928 Rolex obtains a First Class Certificate from the Geneva Astronomical Observatory, the first ever awarded for a 6 ¾” wrist watch.
1931 Rolex invents and patents the “Perpetual Automatic Rotary Winding Mechanism.”
1935 Sir Malcom Campbell breaks the world automobile speed record (300 MPH) wearing a Rolex wristwatch
1938 Rolex introduces the "bubble back"
1939 Rolex introduces the fist chronograph with 30-minute and 12 hours totalizers.
1945 Rolex introduces the DateJust, the first automatic and water wristwatch chronometer. Rolex also introduces the Jubilee bracelet.
1947 Rolex introduces the waterproof chronograph with 12-hour totalizer and triple date. Also releases the Oyster bracelet.
1947 Chuck Yeager breaks the “Sound Barrier” in a Bell X-1 wearing a Rolex Oyster, the same one he had worn throughout his deployment in WWII.
1950 Rolex introduces the Turn-O-Graph, the first Rolex with a rotating bezel and the precursor to the Submariner. Introduces the signature Mercedes hands.
1953 Rolex introduces the Submariner, the first automatic diver’s wristwatch water-resistant to 100 meters.
1953 On May 29, Rolex rose to 29,035 ft above sea level on the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay
1954 Rolex introduces the Submariner Ref. 6200, water-resistant to 200 meters. Rolex introduces the GMT-Master, an automatic chronometer with a 24 hour hand for aircraft pilots. Also debuted the date cyclops on the watch crystal as well as the ladies Oyster Perpetual.
1956 Rolex introduces the Day-Date model, first wristwatch to spell the day of the week as well as the numeric date. Also included is the President bracelet.
1957 Rolex patents a new Microstella regulated balance in Beryllium
1959 Rolex introduces the Submariner Ref 5512 water resistant to 200 meters complete with crownguards for the first time.
1960 Rolex straps a specially designed Deep Sea to the bathyscaphe Trieste which descended 10,916 meters to the bottom of the Mariana Trench being the first watch to reach such a depth.
1960 Hans Wilsdorf passes away on July 6, leaving Rolex to appointees stated in the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.
1961 Rolex launches the first Oyster Cosmograph series ref. 6239
1962 Rolex launches the Cosmograph Daytona
1963 Andre J. Heiniger leads Rolex to 1992, when his son Patrick takes over.
1964 Rolex patents a pressure-proof screw-down push button for chronographs
1967 Rolex, in conjunction with Comex , a French diving company, releases the Sea Dweller guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 610 meters.
1967 Pete Knight breaks Mach 6.72 (4,534 MPH) in an X-15 aircraft wearing a GMT-Master; a record that still stands today.
1969 Rolex releases a Submariner with date and water resistant to 200 meters.
1970 Rolex starts using synthetic sapphire crystals with the introduction of the all gold OysterQuartz beta ref 5100. Rolex started rolling out sapphire crystals throughout the 70’s and 80’s. By 1989, all Rolex watches were fitted with sapphire crystals.
1971 Rolex releases Reference 1655, the first Explorer II with the solid steel 24 hour bezel famous orange 24 hour hand, and also the first Sea Dweller.
1972 Introduction of the first hacking movement.
1977 First use of the quick set date feature, release of the Oyster-Quartz.
1978 Conquest of Mt. Everest without oxygen by Reinhold Messner, who wore an OysterQuartz
1980 Release of the Sea Dweller 4000.
1982 Rolex redesigns the GMT Master II and allows timing in three different time zones rather than two by allowing an independently set 12-hour hand.
1984 Rolex updates the Explorer II to reference number 16550 to resemble other successful selling models, the Submariner and GMT II. The 16550 was available in either white or black dial and shared the same independent 12 hour hand as the GMT Master II.
1985 Rolex surpasses more than 4 million movements officially awarded the “Chronometer” title.
1986 Guided by only a sextant and their Rolex chronometers, Will Steger and Paul Schurke lead the first expedition without resupply to reach the North Pole
1987 Rolex starts using 904L stainless steel in its Sub Date 168000 that uses a high Nickel and Molybdenum content to help prevent pitting between the caseback and the case that results in salt water seeping into the threads. Rolex previously used 316L Steel. Rolex used a mixture of 316L in its bracelets and cases until the mid-2000’s when the DeepSea was made exclusively with 904L steel. Modern Rolex stainless models introduced later than 2011 use 904L in the bracelet, case, clasp, and caseback.
1988 Rolex redesigns and releases the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Chronometer “Daytona" using the modified Zenith El Primero Movement.
1988 Rolex purchases its watchband supplier РGay Fr̬res
1992 Patrick Heiniger takes the reins from his father leading Rolex until December 17, 2008. Heiniger, a lawyer by training specialized in intellectual property and international law. Also released is the Yacht-Master.
1996 Rolex manufactures more official Swiss Chronometers than all other manufacturers combined.
1998 Introduction of the Solid End Link (SEL)
1999 Start using Luminova in favour of Tritium.
2000 Roles launches the new Oyster Perpetual Chronometer Cosmograph “Daytona” with Rolex’s in-house movement, the 4130 with 72 hours power reserve.
2001 Introduction of the Laser Etched Crown (LES) on the sapphire crystals.
2003 In celebration of 50 years of the Submariner releases the Anniversary 16610 LV with green bezel.
2007 Rolex re-releases the Milgauss, a newly redesigned watch from a old classic that is resistant to magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss; Rolex releases the Yacht-Master II, the first yachting watch with a programmable countdown feature and memory utilizing side pushers and the bezel.
2008 Launch of the new GMT-Master II, with a new 3186 movement, Paracrom hairspring, and ceramic bezel.
2008 Rolex introduces the new Deep Sea SeaDweller water resistant to 3,900 meters.
2008 Patrick Heiniger suddenly resigns from his position, two days after Rolex today denying a L’Agefi report that the company lost 1 billion Swiss francs ($900 million) invested with Bernard Madoff, who was later convicted of the largest financial fraud in U.S. history. Bruno Meier, Rolex’s CFO takes over as CEO.
2008 Rolex employs over 4000 people and is estimated to be worth over 5 billion dollars.
2010 Rolex releases the updated 116610 LN Submariner with ceramic bezel
2011 Rolex names a new CEO, Gian Riccardo Marini, formerly Rolex Italy SpA’s chief.
2012 On March 26, Rolex revisits the Mariana Trench with an experimental DeepSea Challenge watch strapped to the outside of James Cameron’s vessel. The watch survived the 2.5 hour decent, 60 minutes on the trench floor, and the 70 minute ascent back to the surface.
Contributers to this WIKI:
I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.
AskMeAgain
justloungin
Thinkbachs
iamthestig
I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.
AskMeAgain
justloungin
Thinkbachs
iamthestig
