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Swapping the white gasket in a Noob v4 Daytona (my first "mod").

dogwood

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This is my first "mod", and I'm putting it in scare quotes, because by modding standards, this is pretty light weight. Nonetheless, with a bit of reading on the forums I felt confident enough to give it a try since the white ring around the Noob Daytona crystal has been bugging me ever since I received my Clean Factory Panda. And I felt I'd document the process and comment on what was harder and what was easier than I expected.

Stuff that was easier than I thought it would be:
  1. Getting the bezel / crystal / gasket off the watch. I was terrified that this would be impossible, but I bought a cheap bezel removal tool from Amazon and it turned out to be by far the easiest part of the job.
Stuff the was harder than I thought it would be:
  1. Keeping the inside of the crystal clean from finger prints and dust. I started the job using finger cots, but was still shocked by how much of my hand oil somehow managed to get onto the crystal. I also made extensive use of a little air blower brush to get rid of the dust and lint that I kept finding on the bottom of the crystal when it came to re-assembly time.
  2. Aligning the markers on the bezel with the correct position on the dial was hard. I bought an extremely cheap bezel / crystal press, so I'm not really surprised this was hard (bad tools + inexperienced operator). Even so, I had to try 6 times before I managed to get the crystal + bezel pressed on correctly.
  3. Getting the crystal + bezel to press on evenly. As in making sure the crystal didn't sit higher on one side than the other after I pressed the bezel down. This was hard and I was never able to get the bezel to go down in nice even steps, it would always go down almost all the way on one side first and then I'd press again and the other side would go down. I was terrified that the bezel would shatter since ceramic really doesn't like being placed under tension stress. And twice when I did this, the crystal and gasket kind popped up on one side so it wasn't level. I didn't try to push the crystal down because I figured this would be asking for trouble, but rather removed everything again, and started over.
Now for some pictures.

This was the bezel tool I bought. Well worth the money. It was super easy to use.

Watch in the tool with a plastic bag to protect everything from getting scratched.

The case once the bezel, crystal, and gasket were removed. I cleaned off the edges with a q-tip and some alcohol. Then I kept the case under a drinking glass to prevent any dust in the air of my workspace from settling on top of the dial.

This is what the OEM Noob V4 gasket looks like. It is very white and opaque.

Comparing the new gasket and the original noob one. I bought the gasket on AliExpress and got two for around $8 with free shipping. The correct size is 29.5mm x 0.55mm x 2.5mm. The gen gasket is only 2.3mm tall, and some people sand these aftermarket gaskets down to get the crystal to sit a little lower. I didn't bother since it was the colour, not the thickness that was bothering me.

The watch with everything pressed back into place. I didn't take any pics during the pressing process since I was getting a bit frustrated with how hard it was.

And finally a pic of the Noob beside the Clean Panda. Compared to the Clean Panda and the original pic above, I'm happy with the way there's no longer a white ring around the crystal.

From start to finish this took me a few hours. I'm sure I'd be quicker next time, but it was a fun way to spend a Sunday morning. And the process has given me a bit more confidence with what I can do with my reps. Thanks for reading. Hope this helps anyone else who's thinking of dabbling is this sort of stuff.
 

KJ2020

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Great work bro. There's a lot to be said for success on your first try. It bodes well for many more to come!
 

Plaasbaas

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Congrats mate, that is a job well done and well documented! I was in the exact same situation, extremely scared when the bezel tilted while putting it back on. All went well but I'd rather not challenge my luck again lol.
 
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dogwood

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OP - The labor cost for that gasket mod is worth at least $250.

Wow! That makes the 2 hours I spent working on it feel like time well spent. Heck, even considering the cost of the tools ($50 for the bezel tool, and $20 for the press), it makes it a pretty good deal in terms of money for time.
 

BlueLineFarmer

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Wow! That makes the 2 hours I spent working on it feel like time well spent. Heck, even considering the cost of the tools ($50 for the bezel tool, and $20 for the press), it makes it a pretty good deal in terms of money for time.

I was kidding when I said the labor for the mod was worth $250.
 
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shyreplover

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And this amazon press worked for you, thx for this insight. On every youtube channel watchmakers recommend bergeon and that is very expensive for DIYer
 
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macarone

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This was the press I bought on Amazon.

I think if I ever do this again, I'll upgrade to a better press, something like this perhaps.

Just grabbed this myself, be carful because the 90’ lower support clip has tendency to bend even break. I suggest a shim/washer to help support it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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dogwood

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And this amazon press worked for you, thx for this insight. On every youtube channel watchmakers recommend bergeon and that is very expensive for DIYer

It worked on the 6th attempt. It was a frustrating experience. I’m not sure how much of the struggle can be attributed to low skill of the operator or poor quality tool… but I feel like the tool was pretty inferior compared to the bezel removal tool. Which is much more sturdy and less flexible.
 
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Jerrix96

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Congrats, a very good job indeed! With experience next time will be a lot easier for sure
 
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Tony Clifton

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Great job!

A modder takes usually about 50 EUR for the bezel/gasket swap. So after one swap your cost for the tools are already amortized.
If you have changed one or two bezels it becomes a pretty easy and fast job (especially with steel bezels as there is no risk of breaking).
The hardest part besides correct positioning the bezel, is actually to keep the inside of the crystal clean. I always use quality Zeiss cloths and a dust blower to get them clean.

I have now changed more than 10 bezels, with only one fatal crack of a CF bezel. However this lesson cost me 130 EUR.
 
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dogwood

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Alright, that's some good advise. So you recommend this other type the lever maneuvered?

I've been looking at this site to purchase, but I am unsure which is better. All seem very similar to me. Any thoughts?

https://www.watch-tools.de/tools/case-closer.php

Honestly I don't know... I had a look at the site you linked. I'm not really sure what to recommend. The problem I found with the version I used was that here seemed to be quite a bit of flex in the blue "structure" of the device. The version I have has the look of being a solid cast metal part, but it's not. It is made out of several pieces of stamped metal which are then welded together. When I was applying pressure there was quite a bit of deflection in the mechanism that I think caused mis-alignment between the two sides of the press. So I would go for something that is made of solid metal parts if you can. The next thing to consider is that some presses have a twist control and some have a lever control. I think the twist control would be good because it would give you very precise control over the compression force. However, a twisting mechanism might impart some torque onto the crystal / bezel. This could be a problem since I really struggled to get the bezel on my Daytona to line up correctly with the dial. That's why I assume the most expensive tools you can get are solid cast iron and use a long lever for actuation of the press.
 
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dogwood

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Just grabbed this myself, be carful because the 90’ lower support clip has tendency to bend even break. I suggest a shim/washer to help support it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How good is this press at not imparting a twist or torque on the bezel / crystal as you screw it down? I can see there's a machine screw that looks like it fits into a keyway on the upper part of the press' barrel; does this keep the piston from rotating at all when you screw it down?
 

dogwood

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So after my previous re-assembly, I felt my crystal was sitting a little bit too proud of the bezel. And sure enough when I measured my Daytona was now 12.6mm thick… I wasn’t gonna let my Daytona have a dad bod.

So I ordered the better version of the press and it arrived today. The first thing I did was disassemble it to figure out how it worked (see pic below) and to figure out how to add shims since there’s not much throw to this press — although it’s far more stable and level than the cheap blue version from before.

Next I disassembled the watch again, this time I wore vinyl gloves rather than finger cots to make sure I kept my finger oils away from the crystal. I then sanded down the crystal gasket by taping some 800 grit sandpaper onto my flat plate and rubbing the gasket around on it. I kept moving my grip and rotating the gasket to be sure I didn’t sand down any one part too much. In the end I think the thinnest part was 2.29mm and the thickest was 2.34.

I washed the gasket to remove any dust from the sanding and dried it. Then re-assembled the watch and bezel. And I painted a very slight amount of silicone o-ring lubricant around the outside of the gasket (as per KJ2020 suggestion), before pressing the bezel back into position. I’m happy to say the new press is far better and easier to use.

some pics of the process.