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Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 5089G “Azulejos” (-062) enamel watch - The art of eternity

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    Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 5089G “Azulejos” (-062) enamel watch - The art of eternity

    Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 5089G “Azulejos” (-062) enamel watch
    - The art of eternity











    Watchmaking in itself is an art. Especially when you are in the Haute Horlogerie department. But when you further dive in to Geneva’s great watchmaking you find the centuries old tradition of decoration of timepieces. Patek Philippe is one such brand, that upholds the old traditions and you find that in the rare handcrafts collection.
    Is that a coincidence? Actually not. When you look at history, Geneva was the center of decorative arts at the moment Patek Philippe was established in 1839. And it was an established practice to engage the artisans in the decoration of watches. There is also some common ground in the way artisans and watchmakers are trained many years to obtain and perfect certain manual skills. So it is no coincidence that they were good at it at that moment.



    World time ref 1415 produced in 1939.


    Patek Philippe upholds these skills and raises awareness of its artisanal tradition by releasing unique pieces.


    Enamelling







    Some of the knowledge and two of the pictures are from Glaude 's article about enamel.


    Basically enameling is a process in which a deposit of silica and oxides is heated to create a very robust surface. It gives a glossy even surface, which looks like porcelain. But it can easily crack or become uneven in the process, and therefore many of these dials have to be discarded.


    The most common types of enameling are:

    Champleve
    The surface is carved, chiseled or decorated before the enamel is added, to make it possible to make intricate patterns.

    Cloisonne
    Raised tiny edges of the metal on the dial are made and then the enamel is added. For example in the world timers Patek 5131/5231.

    Pailloné enamel
    Shapes and patterns are added on top of the enamel fx shaped metal.

    Grand Feu (“Grand fire”)
    The enamel powder is burned in an oven at 800+ degree’s and multiple layers are given. Rejection rate is high. Gives a highly even and glossy surface.

    Painted enamel
    Liquidized enamel powder in different colors are used to paint the dial after the dial has been prepared with an enamel surface. Requires multiple drying/heating procedures and has a high rejection rate. Process is similar to the Grand Feu technique, but requires an artisan with painting skills also.


    This is the way the reviewed watch was made.


    The process shown by Patek Philippe, something similar was copied by the chinese maker:







    Azulejos and the gen










    Patek Philippe has made these rare handcraft enamel dials to pay tribute to the Azulejos in Geneve. It’s made by the same technique where the artist paints the motif layer by layer. The Azulejos is a centuries old artistry of Arabic origin, which gained widespread recognition in Portugal and Spain. It consists of multiple ceramic painted tiles which make up a painting, decorating the exterior and interior of buildings and monuments.

    The Patek Philippe Calatrava “Azulejos” ref. 5089G






    This reference was released in two limited edition versions, a 5089G-062 “The Porter” and 5089G-061 “The Barge” for Baselworld 2017.
    Both had miniature painted enamel dials on a 18K gold plate. The backside of the plate was enameled with a “contres-email” process to prevent the metal from damage during the repeated heating processes.

    Gen:


    The case was “borrowed” from the 5296 so to speak, which is nothing negative, on the contrary! The movement was a caliber 240 with a off-center mini-rotor.
    Gen measurements:
    Case diameter: 38,60mm.
    Case thickness: 9,17mm w/crystal, 9,0mm without.
    Lug width: 21mm

    The Patek Philippe Calatrava “Azulejos” 5089G-062 rep














    Off course reps are about usable practical watches. We want them to be as close as possible to gen at a high build quality and with reliable movements. But reps are also about acquiring those dream watches, that just are a distant dream, unobtainable in reality. Because of a price we can’t pay or an AD who won’t sell, or as in this case all of that, plus an limitation in clientele.
    This is the kind of rep we have at hands. Let’s analyze it!


    Facts first
    Case diameter: 38,4mm
    Case thickness: 11,2mm w/crystal, 9,06mm without.
    Lug/buckle width: 21/16mm
    Strap: Not worth using words on.





    Case, crystal and crown
    The case has the same beautiful design as we know it from the 5296 with a polished bezel and beautifully curved lugs, thinning out at the end. A bit downward curved.


    The case has the same thickness as the gen. Although the crystal is domed in the center and makes the watch measure thick in the middle. In the sides it’s the same thickness with the crystal as the gen!


    It seems to me like a good quality crystal and is pretty clear, giving a good view of the dial without reflecting much or clouding.

    Caseback: The rep lacks a hinged cover on the back.

    Crown is not as thin as the gen and has a smaller Calatrava cross on it. They should've made the crown like the ZF Calatrava 5296.

    Gen:



    Hands
    This is a time only piece with a minute and hour hand. It has dauphine formed blue-coated hands like the gen, and beautifully finished. The center pinion of the hands is silver like the gen, which is a nice feature.



    Movement
    The movement is a modified Miyota. It is beautiful and very pleasing to have a mini-rotor movement in the collection. The decoration is very nice. The small engravings have some minor spelling mistakes like fx “isochronish” “fiye” instead of isochronism and five respectively. And there is a lack of spacing between “andfivepositions” and “twenty-seven27jewels”. But these are barely visible with the naked eye in normal lighting.
    The mini-rotor has a gold-plated disc mounted on it, in my opinion the whole mini-rotor should’ve been gold-plated. This bothers me a bit.



    Dial
    The dial is exquisite! I am out of words. Where to begin?

    The surface is glossy and porcelain like and catches light very beautifully. The artistry is fantastic. The detailing as well. Like the gen they have painted the motif in small “tiles”. Which is such an amazing feature. The color is correct as it changes to a proper blue in dark lighting to a lighter azure blue in bright light. Like you find on pictures of the gen.
    The logo is smooth and crisply painted.


    I have spent time comparing the dial to pictures of the gen, and yes, it has small differences in detail, but every one of these dials are handprinted. Therefore there are no two Patek dials that are the same!


    Flaws:
    • Lack of hinged cover on the back
    • The watch is same thickness as the gen, apart from the crystal which is domed giving almost 2mm excess thickness in the center
    • The small engravings on the movement lacks spacing and there are two minor spelling mistakes.
    • Mini-rotor has gold-plated disc on it instead of being gold-plated as a whole.

    I have thought of swapping the crystal to a flat one so the watch will have the exact same thickness as the gen, but honestly it doesn’t bother me, as the watch itself has the same thickness. I therefore feel it’s not worth doing.
    The gen crystal is also domed, although it's not so protruding as the rep:




    Strap
    I feel that the strap i've put the watch on, deserves special mention. The gen comes with a shiny black, which I found a bit boring. This watch deserves the best of straps! I therefore ordered a handcrafted navy-blue shiny alligator strap from Camille Fournet. I chose the same color code of blue shiny that Patek Philippe use in their watches.


    I asked them for stitching with platinum thread! And it was possible to do so. The result is amazing and suits the watch in my opinion.







    On the wrist and concluding remarks
















    This watch has all the elegance of an ordinary Calatrava and adds the sophistication of artistry and spark of blue color.



    There just is something special about enamel dials. Something indeed very special. And It's not just the beauty of it. It's not the work put in it. It's not only that you feel part of a century’s old tradition. Neither is it the artistry and skills put into it. No, it's more than that!
    Like diamonds are forever. In watchmaking, enamels are forever.



    There is a lot of evidence out there in form of enamel pocket watches from the 19th century. In a watch case they can last almost forever and the color will be as vivid and lively as when first made. It’s this feeling of having eternity right there at your wrist. It's that which is what such an exquisite piece is all about. It's the knowledge that this piece of art will exist even when the movement has long stopped beating. Eternal beauty even when the candle is lit no more.



    This watch you probably won’t use very often. But this rep will let you live the dream of having an unobtainable piece, that is only offered to an exclusive limited clientele. At the same time, it’s such an incredible piece of art to have on the wrist. Presented in the iconic 5296 case, which so many of us love, it is understated, yet so refined. There is no drama, no “look at me”, no screaming 100k+, instead it presents beauty in a sophisticated way. It’s the gentleman’s way. It exudes appreciation of art, sophistication and elegance.



    Even if others don’t notice it, you will look at it often and appreciate the artistry, the branding Patek Philippe on it and it will put a smile on your lips – deliberately didn’t wrote “put a smile on your face” (!).
    -------- A special mention to a fellow collector and good friend for letting us know about this watch m1994 -------






    Last edited by jm_brc_7057; 18-03-20, 01:59.
    My reviews: A.L.&S. 1815 Tourbillon V2 - VC Traditionnelle Tourbillon - VC Traditionnelle - Patek 5070P Saatchi London Ltd. Edi - Patek 5089G Azulejos - Patek 5524G - Patek 5975R - Patek 5205G - Patek 6102R Celestial Moon Age - Richard Mille 035-02 ZF (crown rubber change).

    New review released: Patek 3800 gen vs Patek 5711 PPF

    Collection inspirational thread.

    #2
    Hey guys. All of you were interested in this watch, i just want to tag you so that you know about this review:

    m1994 molivio gilrob joonwantswatches Glaude zerohour toni123456 watch_man XLR8R _DC_ mari115 KSwatches Godfathar fire007 majwilliams0308 BIONONE

    I hope you don't mind, or please tell for next time.
    My reviews: A.L.&S. 1815 Tourbillon V2 - VC Traditionnelle Tourbillon - VC Traditionnelle - Patek 5070P Saatchi London Ltd. Edi - Patek 5089G Azulejos - Patek 5524G - Patek 5975R - Patek 5205G - Patek 6102R Celestial Moon Age - Richard Mille 035-02 ZF (crown rubber change).

    New review released: Patek 3800 gen vs Patek 5711 PPF

    Collection inspirational thread.

    Comment


      #3
      Wow, what a fantastic review, once again ! Thanks for taking the time to do it !

      Quick question : the crystal on the gen isn't domed too ? (no idea, but figured it might entirely possible ?)

      That strap really change the "boring" aspect that the watch could have, it add this touch of modernity to the classic enamel design !

      Comment


        #4
        Mate fantastic review as usual thank you for that. I can't see some pictures at mobile nor on phone but from what i read this watch is more than superb and i'm going to purchase both of them twice. One pair for my son and me anyways thank you for your time and dedication to create posts like these and i agree on that this watch is sleeper does not scream but whispers wealth. I would like to know more about movement any noise? accuracy? and which movement is it based on when this movement goes bad it would be nice to know that its not a beautiful paperweight. Anyways take care and have a wonderful day.

        Comment


          #5
          Fantastic review for a fantastic watch. I think you're taking us for a ride and this is a gen. That's how good the watch looks. Well done.
          "Did mcbigmac stole a watch from me?" -oascom
          founder and member of The Official RWI Planet Ocean Club and the RWI Seamaster Club.
          siggy by WingNut

          Comment


            #6
            Took the time that this review deserves to read carefully - full of joy.

            You again amazed me with such an eloquent write up that every word is already said at this point.

            The only thing left is again gratefulness to be abled to have such nice reviews and historical insight.
            thank you for your valuable time to offer us such things in our micro cosmos here at RWI.

            To be honest your recent threads and pictures of your collection made me think also think about a classy patek - to be specific the 5227/J - anyways - thanks again!

            enjoy this piece of artistry at its finest for what it is!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jm_brc_7057 View Post
              Hey guys. All of you were interested in this watch, i just want to tag you so that you know about this review:

              m1994 molivio gilrob joonwantswatches Glaude zerohour toni123456 watch_man XLR8R _DC_ mari115 KSwatches Godfathar fire007 majwilliams0308 BIONONE

              I hope you don't mind, or please tell for next time.
              Wonderful review, where do you rank this in your pantheon on Patek Reps? Could prof do a crystal swap?

              Comment


                #8
                Outstanding review. Excellent celebration to the artistry of these enameled dial watches. Thank you.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Amazing review, thank you so much, changed my mind completely

                  Comment


                    #10
                    What an incredible review, I am too impressed by the way you prepare us to read about the rep, to the point that you already fell in love with the watch without having seen it.

                    Impressive all the data you collected about the types of enamel style there are, it is difficult to find such good information even in gen forums or in watch magazines, thank you for your time spent on it.

                    I will definitely buy this watch.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jm_brc_7057 View Post
                      Hey guys. All of you were interested in this watch, i just want to tag you so that you know about this review:

                      m1994 molivio gilrob joonwantswatches Glaude zerohour toni123456 watch_man XLR8R _DC_ mari115 KSwatches Godfathar fire007 majwilliams0308 BIONONE

                      I hope you don't mind, or please tell for next time.
                      wonderful review, I always liked the enamel dials.
                      GEN - Universal Geneve: Golden Janus; Breguet: Type XX Aeronavale; Girard-Perregaux: WW.TC; Rolex: Daytona, Datejust
                      REP - PP Nautilus 5711 blu - AP Fc sub - Rlx Sub 1680 rosso

                      Comment


                        #12
                        [QUOTE=jm_brc_7057;n8715746]Hey guys. All of you were interested in this watch, i just want to tag you so that you know about this review:

                        m1994 molivio gilrob joonwantswatches Glaude zerohour toni123456 watch_man XLR8R _DC_ mari115 KSwatches Godfathar fire007 majwilliams0308 BIONONE


                        thank you for your time writing this excellent review. I think I'm gonna throw all my doubts overboard and will buy this Beauty - but I like the 061 a little better.
                        For now i have the Patek Pilot in RG incoming...
                        Last edited by watch_man; 18-03-20, 14:17.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Bravo

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Love your reviews mate!!

                            Great work and lovely piece.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Glaude View Post
                              Wow, what a fantastic review, once again ! Thanks for taking the time to do it !

                              Quick question : the crystal on the gen isn't domed too ? (no idea, but figured it might entirely possible ?)

                              That strap really change the "boring" aspect that the watch could have, it add this touch of modernity to the classic enamel design !
                              Thanks mate. You are right, the crystal is domed on the gen too, actually a bit difficult to find that info. But i've added a picture of the gen crystal in the article. But it looks less domed than the rep. Yeah, the strap has really lifted the watch.
                              My reviews: A.L.&S. 1815 Tourbillon V2 - VC Traditionnelle Tourbillon - VC Traditionnelle - Patek 5070P Saatchi London Ltd. Edi - Patek 5089G Azulejos - Patek 5524G - Patek 5975R - Patek 5205G - Patek 6102R Celestial Moon Age - Richard Mille 035-02 ZF (crown rubber change).

                              New review released: Patek 3800 gen vs Patek 5711 PPF

                              Collection inspirational thread.

                              Comment

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