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[Pompompurin's] Let's build a Rolex Submariner 1680 using a Milk case

vcelkama

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Hi, does milk case accept eta movements with higher stem height of 2.25 mm (2836, 2846) or rather a lower one of 1.8 mm which is a spec for gen 1575 movement ((and also some eta such as 2824 or 2842)

Thanks
 

pompompurin

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Hi, does milk case accept eta movements with higher stem height of 2.25 mm (2836, 2846) or rather a lower one of 1.8 mm which is a spec for gen 1575 movement ((and also some eta such as 2824 or 2842)

Thanks

Milk 1680 case accepts ETA 2846 and 2836-2. It works perfectly for me.

As listed in my first post:

Ingredients:
- Milk 1680 mid-case
- Milk 1680 case-back
- Aftermarket insert with service fonts (not pictured)
- Vietnam pip from Ruby (not pictured)
- Vietnam bezel assembly from Ruby
- Vietnam T19 from Ruby
- Vietnam Rolex 1680 dial (no-lume)
- Replica Rolex 704 crown (RSC sometimes swap 704 crowns and 7030 tubes into vintage subs; therefore, this is still within gen spec)
- 7mm tube
- Rafflestime hands
- Rafflesdial movement ring (not pictured)
- NOS ETA 2846-2 lowbeat movement
- MMM (MyManMatt from Repgeek) open 6/9 DWO (the best open 6/9 dwo currently available, although not cheap)

Also, all gen-spec cases that are made for 1570 / 1575 movements can accept ETA 2846 or ETA 2836-2.
Some people can make it fit and some people cannot: what matters is the skill and the tacit experience needed to make it fit.

For your inspiration, here is a gen 1500 case (which originally uses 1570 movement) with an ETA 2846 inside.
- Gen everything (including the 7835 bracelet and hands)
- Modified ETA 2846 lowbeat movement (to fit gen hands and to remove the quick-set date function, like a gen 1570 movement)
- Cartel open 6/9 DWO
- Modified Helenarou movement ring

20220624-170633.jpg.a70c6dc622a02ff7b0d966c9aeb00d11.jpg
 
Last edited:

GIG

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Beautiful build!

I picked up a lot of tips from your build. I hope to attempt a build like this very soon.
 
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pompompurin

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@pompompurin final thoughts on the milk 1680? How do the crown guards look? I'm about to order one soon.
They need opening up for sure.
As for the external shape of the crownguard, a little bit of dremel work wouldn't hurt.
More importantly, making a plexi fit the milk 1680 case can be tricky. I use Clark tropic 127 with gs hypo
 

Dizzy

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They need opening up for sure.
As for the external shape of the crownguard, a little bit of dremel work wouldn't hurt.
More importantly, making a plexi fit the milk 1680 case can be tricky. I use Clark tropic 127 with gs hypo
Yeah I see that now. I tried 5 different crystals including a genuine t-127 and they are all too big And the bezel press on ring is too big. Good thing I ordered a Vietnam bezel. Maybe it will fit better. I really didn't want to glue my crystal on but oh well.
 
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pompompurin

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My hacks:

In my opinion, gluing the crystal is the only quick, straightforward, and fairly reliable way. I recommend clarks 127 for milk 1680 case sets.

If the crystal retainer ring is loose once it is pressed onto the crystal, you can apply a thin amount of superglue around the inner walls of the crystal retainer, wait for the superglue to dry, then press the crystal retainer onto the crystal again. The dried superglue takes up space which adds more pressure around the crystal, making the crystal and crystal retainer ring fit tighter together. Dried superglue can also chip away slightly to allow leeway (instead of causing too much pressure and cracking the walls of the crystal).

To prevent the milk crystal retainer from getting warped when pressing the crystal retainer down, I like to firstly install the bezel, crystal retainer, and washer together, then press the whole bezel assembly down onto the crystal. Once the bezel is checked to be working, i then install the bezel insert.

Ymmv, but the aforesaid tips can work for milk cases and other projects
 

WatchN3RD

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My hacks:

In my opinion, gluing the crystal is the only quick, straightforward, and fairly reliable way. I recommend clarks 127 for milk 1680 case sets.

If the crystal retainer ring is loose once it is pressed onto the crystal, you can apply a thin amount of superglue around the inner walls of the crystal retainer, wait for the superglue to dry, then press the crystal retainer onto the crystal again. The dried superglue takes up space which adds more pressure around the crystal, making the crystal and crystal retainer ring fit tighter together. Dried superglue can also chip away slightly to allow leeway (instead of causing too much pressure and cracking the walls of the crystal).

To prevent the milk crystal retainer from getting warped when pressing the crystal retainer down, I like to firstly install the bezel, crystal retainer, and washer together, then press the whole bezel assembly down onto the crystal. Once the bezel is checked to be working, i then install the bezel insert.

Ymmv, but the aforesaid tips can work for milk cases and other projects
Thanks for this. I didn't know the entire bezel assembly could be pressed without destroying it. Also have a milk case that I haven't used, just yet. Your advice/comments will be a lifesaver when I start that build.

As for your specific build though, what did you use to hold the hands when you sharpened the edges? More specifically, I have a watch hand holder that's used for reaming, but I was curious if you had a precision clamp that could sandwich the hand and allow for shaving of the hand sides. I'm looking for something if you have any suggestions.