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What's your personal wish for 2025 in terms of horological novelty/novelties?

Feefo

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This year Watches and Wonders will take place beginning of April in Geneva. As you know, most (but not all) new issues from watch brands will be presented there. The internet is already full of predictions of what will happen, what new watches may be issued, where the trends will go. Many of those are based on the anniversaries falling this year.

I'm not asking you to echo those predictions (please, you can google them and get millions of opinions already, all threading more or less the same topics), rather I would like to know what you PERSONALLY want to see. What have you been waiting for and hope this is the year it finally happens. Do not limit yourself to a watch you want to see, maybe also say what trends you would like to see starting or which one you wish to die. Or even, which brand you wish would change its game and which one you wish would step it down.

Personally, I would like to see more innovation/inventiveness and risk taking in dial designs. While vintage inspirations have brought us a lot of nice watches in the last years, slowly it's beginning to be boring unless new, brave twists are added to those designs.

I also wish for the big brands to be bolder, i.e. I really am fed up with the millionth iteration of the Speedmaster, the minimal changes in Rolex models, the Black Bay series. Changing material to a known model doesn't necessarily make it new (Rolex, Tudor...). Neither changing just the dial (I'm talking to you AP).

Specifically regarding Rolex, while I'm curious about a new Coke GMT master, I'm also a bit afraid it could be disappointing in the end. Let's hope not, this seems to be the year for a new Coke. Generally though I wish they returned to more elegant and "dainty"/5-digit-like case shapes.

I wish brands like Panerai or Breguet found their roots and their raison d'être again and stopped just being autoreferential ("like the whole industry you mean?", "Yes I know, I'm an incurable romantic").

I could go on and on.

So, what do you wish? What do you expect? What do you deserve?!
 

p0pperini

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I'm inclined to think the Age of Risk Aversion, intrinsically tied to the Age of Shareholder Return Obligation is what drives the decision making processes for these companies now. They have armies of consultants doing market research and focus testing and as a result, very little of true innovation gets to see the light of day and instead we get what you mention @Feefo - endless tweaks and iterations of tried and tested successful formulae.

Occasionally someone like Musk comes along, who has the money and ego to call all the shots, ignore the shareholders' or any opinion except their own, and produce whatever the hell they want. But power corrupts, leads to madness, and you end up with the Cybertruck. So we can't win really.
 

Feefo

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60 Seconds View GIF by Robot Gentleman
 

Reaps

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2025 is 70th anniversary of the GMT so I'm expecting something for that.
 
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Feefo

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2025 is 70th anniversary of the GMT so I'm expecting something for that.
Do you also really really want to see it? What exactly?
 

Manuahdha

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I saw Xing announcing a Minute repeater , so having a nice Rep with a minute Repeater would be absolute bonkers. I really hope the movements are reliable and that the watch they put them on looks good.
 

Feefo

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I saw Xing announcing a Minute repeater , so having a nice Rep with a minute Repeater would be absolute bonkers. I really hope the movements are reliable and that the watch they put them on looks good.
Ok, that's the rep world though, I think there is a thread for that already. What about gen world?
 
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Do you also really really want to see it? What exactly?
Well, my dream would be a new variation of the GMT with slimmed down lug profile similar to how the 11x Sub series jumped to the 12x series. Similar to what you want, a slimming down, a return to the 5 digit shape.

And a rework of their GMT bezel assembly would be nice. I mean how can the VSF/GSC GMT have a better system for bidirectional bezel than Rolex themselves? It's funny, maybe I'm missing something.

And I know Rolex has been trending towards making after market straps almost impossible with the newer 6 digit systems but I would like to see something along the lines of allowing newer GMT to accept after market straps. I mean 1675 can accept leather because the lug holes are further away from the case, but the 126710 is universally seen with either thick chunky leather straps on a curved spring bar to match the "heavy" set lugs, or an endlink system. Both of which reduce the elegance of the GMT.

For me, bezel color, sure, whatever, new variations are cool but an updated shape would be much nicer.

I don't wear my GMT very often because I can't see the giant, thick, lugs, I know some people love the GMT but that's my honest fact of the matter.
 

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Oh, and if Rolex really wants to up their ball game and call themselves at the "forefont" of horological innovation, hot take, they should allow upgrade their 24 click bezel to 48 click. There are some niche time zones that are +30 minutes not +1 hour.
 
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JayBee0815

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To be honest, I'm just sick of all the hype surrounding Rolex in particular. Of course, a nice (re)introduction would be the Coke GMT, for example. But since all the hyperactive stupid influencers have been demanding exactly that for the last few years, I, as a customer, would feel like I'm not being taken seriously again. The annoying kids whine – so we'll give them what they want, at least they'll shut up. And we can be sure that the crazy influencers will be over the moon, that there will be nothing but Rolex hype content for months and that prices will go through the roof. Oh yes, normal customers won't get the hype models anyway. Maybe there will be a revival of ‘masterclasses’ where you learn how to properly kiss the AD's ass.

Otherwise, I'll wait and see, but I'm rather pessimistic. @p0pperini has said everything that´s on my mind.
 

p0pperini

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Oh yes, normal customers won't get the hype models anyway. Maybe there will be a revival of ‘masterclasses’ where you learn how to properly kiss the AD's ass.
100% this. What's most futile about new model daydreaming is the chance almost all of us have of ever being able to walk into a Rolex AD and simply buy one.

Thank you rep factories for making it possible to buy a Rolex under RRP.
 

dewieduck

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I was blown away when IWC took the huge risk of redesigning the Ingenieur at Watches and Wonders 2023. The dial redesign was so bold with the daring aqua color and checkerboard texture. We need more companies to take design risks like this.
 

Feefo

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I was blown away when IWC took the huge risk of redesigning the Ingenieur at Watches and Wonders 2023. The dial redesign was so bold with the daring aqua color and checkerboard texture. We need more companies to take design risks like this.
I'm not sure it was a huge risk, the Ingenieur had its solid base of aficionados and integrated bracelet watches have been en vogue for a while, taking traction the past 2-3 years, so it was a very smart move. But yes, I'm always happy when I see alternatives to the omnipresent Nautilus and Royal Oaks. Seen like that, Girard Perregaux was braver doing it 2017 (the Laureato re-issue), Chopard followed 2019 with the Alpine Eagle. I'm sure there's others beyond the obvious Tissot PRX, who brought the design to the masses. The question then could be: do we need more integrated bracelet watches?
 
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dewieduck

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I'm not sure it was a huge risk, the Ingenieur had its solid base of aficionados and integrated bracelet watches have been en vogue for a while, taking traction the past 2-3 years, so it was a very smart move. But yes, I'm always happy when I see alternatives to the omnipresent Nautilus and Royal Oaks. Seen like that, Girard Perregaux was braver doing it 2017 (the Laureato re-issue), Chopard followed 2019 with the Alpine Eagle. I'm sure there's others beyond the obvious Tissot PRX, who brought the design to the masses. The question then could be: do we need more integrated bracelet watches?
I'm not sure I would put the 2017 Laureato in this category. I found the redesign dull and uninspired. The 2019 Alpine Eagle's dial was definitely an eyecatcher. However, the bracelet design was one of the worst I've ever seen. When I tried on the 36mm, the bracelet looked like I was wearing a children's toy. I would argue that it's quite difficult to get an inspired integrated bracelet watch design where all elements of the dial, bezel, bracelet, and clasp stay interesting while avoiding looking like PP and AP.
 

Feefo

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I'm not sure I would put the 2017 Laureato in this category. I found the redesign dull and uninspired. The 2019 Alpine Eagle's dial was definitely an eyecatcher. However, the bracelet design was one of the worst I've ever seen. When I tried on the 36mm, the bracelet looked like I was wearing a children's toy. I would argue that it's quite difficult to get an inspired integrated bracelet watch design where all elements of the dial, bezel, bracelet, and clasp stay interesting while avoiding looking like PP and AP.
I didn't mean to make any classification, it was just an observation on the "huge risk" of issuing the new Ingenieur. I don't think IWC risked anything, integrated bracelet watches were the hype of 2023-2024, it was just intelligent marketing. The fact their issue is more or less successful than the ones I mentioned was not for debate.