Ultimate 177

[josephag94]

Hey there everyone, I had a quick question as I am currently building a pam177. I was fortunate enough to snag an old Noob 177. However it doesn’t have the Y incabloc and you can tell the movement is a little older.

Fortunately I have a Marlin 111 that I was planning to gut and use the movement and dial. I was planning to put it into the 177.

My question is should I keep the 177 current dial/pinions? Or should I do a full gut of the 111 and put the 111 dial/movement in there?

From my limited knowledge I know that the 111 and 177 have identical dials basically.

 

[Rx4Time]

I would just do a straight swap and keep the dial and hands installed on the movement. The running seconds hand cap is nicer on the Marlin/ noob movement. Keeping them intact will save time and there is not a significant difference visually

 

[josephag94]

I would just do a straight swap and keep the dial and hands installed on the movement. The running seconds hand cap is nicer on the Marlin/ noob movement. Keeping them intact will save time and there is not a significant difference visually

I figured as much. I appreciate your insight. Do you think there’s anything else externally I should do to the watch? Like case wise?

 

[Rx4Time]

I can't tell from the pictures, but sometimes the crown guard pin is slightly raised. There's a few tutorials around on how to make it flush.

 

[marcsp2675]

Very interested in the progress of this build. I'm planning something very similar. Actually, maybe just the same.

I have a NWBIG Noob V4 111 and was considering converting to a pseudo 177 by having the case brushed out (because I understand a good 177 is hard to find). How noticeable is the difference in weight between the SS and Ti? Hont said he could source me an HWF 177, but I've read they are not very good.

So, I'm thinking 1) just brush out the SS 111 - or - 2) get the new 177 and do a straight swap and keep the dial and hands installed on the movement as suggested by @Rx4Time.

 

[josephag94]

I can't tell from the pictures, but sometimes the crown guard pin is slightly raised. There's a few tutorials around on how to make it flush.

Looks like this one is flush

 

[josephag94]

Very interested in the progress of this build. I'm planning something very similar. Actually, maybe just the same.

I have a NWBIG Noob V4 111 and was considering converting to a pseudo 177 by having the case brushed out (because I understand a good 177 is hard to find). How noticeable is the difference in weight between the SS and Ti? Hont said he could source me an HWF 177, but I've read they are not very good.

So, I'm thinking 1) just brush out the SS 111 - or - 2) get the new 177 and do a straight swap and keep the dial and hands installed on the movement as suggested by @Rx4Time.

Don’t brush out the 111. Just get the hwf case if you really want a 177. The difference in weight is noticeable but it isn’t huge. It should be a straight swap iirc.

 

[marcsp2675]

Don’t brush out the 111. Just get the hwf case if you really want a 177. The difference in weight is noticeable but it isn’t huge. It should be a straight swap iirc.

thank you.

 

[Rx4Time]

Agreed on the case .... titanium has a different color tone and is significantly lighter. Don't waste a top tier movement on a low end case.

 

[Woundup]

Hard to tell from the pictures - is the train bridge of the 177 engraved? Looks like the SN adjustment screw is missing - could be lodged in the case somewhere.

You have pre-V style hands on the 111...

Your Marlin 111 also looks to have the typical issue of the jewel dye (Marlin mod) leeching due to the moebius oil - which can be easily cleaned with alcohol on a Qtip.

 

[josephag94]

Hard to tell from the pictures - is the train bridge of the 177 engraved? Looks like the SN adjustment screw is missing - could be lodged in the case somewhere.

You have pre-V style hands on the 111...

Your Marlin 111 also looks to have the typical issue of the jewel dye (Marlin mod) leeching due to the moebius oil - which can be easily cleaned with alcohol on a Qtip.

Looks like it is engraved, I’m not sure what screw you’re referring to, do you happen to have a picture?

Do you recommend swapping the hands out then on the 177 to the Marlin movement?

 

[KOT1917]

The weight may vary depending on the specific model and factory, but it is usually 105-115 g for steel bettarini with HW and 70-85 g for titanium. The color varies greatly, it is not a problem to look at any 1950 case, where you will see satin steel. So tiao no, satinizing 111 is a bad idea.

Very interested in the progress of this build. I'm planning something very similar. Actually, maybe just the same.

I have a NWBIG Noob V4 111 and was considering converting to a pseudo 177 by having the case brushed out (because I understand a good 177 is hard to find). How noticeable is the difference in weight between the SS and Ti? Hont said he could source me an HWF 177, but I've read they are not very good.

So, I'm thinking 1) just brush out the SS 111 - or - 2) get the new 177 and do a straight swap and keep the dial and hands installed on the movement as suggested by @Rx4Time.

 

[KOT1917]

In essence of the post:
- The PAM111 and PAM177 dials are essentially the same for similar years of production.
- In this particular case, I like the PAM111 dial more, and I would put it, with the replacement of movement., hands and CP.
(Regarding the second hand, I would join the comments above, but you need to look at the difference in the tone of the lume, so that there is no obvious difference with the rest of the modern hands).
- There is not much to do with the case, I would only ask someone who can do it well to make chamfers on the edges of the CG and the CG lever.