Starter depends on personal tastes... For me, the best "starter" would be whatever Richemont's closest homage to the original Rolex Oysters are.. In that case it would be a 47mm Radiomir model with 2 lines of text at the 12. I don't want seconds, or any extra features, especially "post-V" stuff. I'm not super familiar with the huge variety of models out there, so I don't even know if they ever made this watch, either pre or post Vendome
Also no reps are making Radiomir models right now, afaik
So for me the next best thing is their closest homage to the Rolex Oysters with the locking crown guard, 2 lines of text preferred at 12, with a sandwich dial. No seconds, no logo. But I don't think there are any current models, gen or rep with 2 lines.
That's just me.. For me, nothing beats Bettarini's most basic homages of the early Rolexes, sometimes with GP&F's added features, like an 8 day movement, a logo, or a seconds hand at 9. Richemont has homaged his cases too, and those are the easiest to get.
And then you have to find a good rep of that
There might be an argument for Submersibles to be the closest current homage to an "actual Panerai" watch, because they homage one of the only watches GP&F ever made themselves in Italy in decent numbers, the GPF 2/56. I prefer the look of the Rolex based cases though. They are SO beautiful, with or without the crown guard.
TLDR: Look for a base logo for that 90's homage look. PAM112 or PAM111. Not sure if there are any good reps of those around. Closest decent one might be the HWF PAM914 since it has "8 giorni" instead of a logo, so it's a bit more subtle. And the 914 has a closed case back, so you aren't exposed to the inaccurate movement. The cutouts are fat though, so it looks bad in photos (looks fine in person though imo)