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Thin watches

PRS

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12/6/23
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HOH2KI.webp

Throughout the history of watches, there has always been a drive to make timepieces more accurate, durable, long-lasting, and portable. Being portable also means being smaller, but if a watch's diameter becomes too small, it's difficult to read the time. Therefore, the focus shifted towards creating slim watches, which also exude elegance. The second factor: the subject of slim construction requires engineering prowess and innovation. That's why particularly thin watches are considered on par with complications like the tourbillon.

All these brands are distinguished not only for their craftsmanship but also for their history, design philosophy, and contributions to the world of horology. If you're in the market for a slim watch, any of these brands would offer impeccable options.


HO30NW.jpeg

From 2020 to March 2022, Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate held the title of the thinnest watch. With a height of just two millimeters, it achieves this using floating-mounted wheels and an hour disc beneath the minute hand. There's a tool for the flat crown which makes winding it faster. The watch is built to order and starts at 420,000 euros.

HOHDo8.jpeg

In March 2022, Bulgari surpassed the Piaget record with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, having a total height of just 1.8 millimeters. Hours, minutes, and seconds each have their own dials on the same level. Instead of a crown, there are two wheels for winding and setting. The watch costs 400,000 euros in a titanium case.

HO3cgR.jpeg

In July 2022, Richard Mille set the record with its RM UP-01 Ferrari, reducing the thickness to just 1.75 millimeters. This makes it the flattest mechanical watch in the world currently. To achieve this, among other things, they did away with the return pointer and the limiting pins for the anchor. It is wound with a tool via a recess on the front side. It displays the hours and minutes on a shared dial. Priced at 1.7 million Swiss Francs, it is also more expensive than its competitors

I don't want to add all timepieces to this thread but the following list of renowned watch brands (I maybe miss some, but take it as a base for it) known for crafting slim or flat watches. Here's a brief introduction to each brand, particularly emphasizing their reputation in producing thin timepieces:
  1. Patek Philippe: This Swiss watchmaker, founded in 1839, is renowned for its impeccable craftsmanship and innovative timepieces. They have a collection of ultra-thin watches, including some from their Calatrava range.
  2. A. Lange & Söhne: Based in Germany, A. Lange & Söhne has been producing luxury watches since 1845. Their Saxonia collection includes models that are notably slim.
  3. Breguet: Established in 1775 in France, Breguet is considered one of the oldest watchmaking companies. They're credited with the invention of the tourbillon and have some remarkably flat watches in their Classique collection.
  4. Vacheron Constantin: Founded in 1755, this Swiss watch brand is one of the most prestigious in the world. Their Patrimony collection includes ultra-thin models that are a testament to the brand's meticulous craftsmanship.
  5. Jaeger-LeCoultre: Established in 1833 in Switzerland, Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for its inventive timepieces. The Master Ultra Thin models are a highlight of their commitment to slim watch design.
  6. Blancpain: Another Swiss giant, Blancpain was founded in 1735 and boasts of the Villeret Ultraplate, a particularly slim watch.
  7. Audemars Piguet: Founded in 1875, this Swiss watchmaker is known for its Royal Oak collection, but they also have some ultra-thin models, showcasing their mastery in watch craftsmanship.
  8. Cartier: A French luxury goods conglomerate, Cartier, established in 1847, is particularly known for its jewelry and watches. Their Tank and Santos collections have featured slim designs.
  9. Chopard: Established in 1860 in Switzerland, Chopard is a luxury watch, jewelry, and accessories company. They have several slim designs, especially in their L.U.C collection.

It's uncertain whether we will see even thinner watches in the future, or if replica manufacturers will be able to produce watches with this level of precision and delicacy. However, I believe we will continue to see thin watches as a distinct segment. Thank you for your time and reading.
 

PRS

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Amazing engineering.
Indeed, and I actually think that from the cost/investment balance, it would also make sense for replica manufacturers to produce such items. On the other hand, if some people produce items just to say 'only we can do this', I wouldn't be surprised.
 
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eBoy

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When you go through T1 in Frankfurt Airport while returning from an EU flight, you will briefly pass through the publicly accessible part of the terminal on your way to baggage claim. Right above the escalators / stairs leading back down to the restricted area is a big static ad panel that's been occupied by Richard Mille since at least July. It carries an ad for the slim Ferrari watch... I pointed at it last week and said to my wife: "Look honey, an RM watch. This one surely costs a few hundred grands...".

Oh boy, I had no idea how wrong I was! 😆
 

shinynewbling25

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Wow, I knew of these thin watches but the thinness in mm never registered until seeing your pictures posted and these watches are paper thin!!! Freakishly thin. When people say "mechanical art" or "little marvels" about a mass produced JLC master slimline or whatever it's called JLC et al bread and butter watch I always roll my eyes but these types of watches along with MB&F and other experimental/engineering type producers do achieve that term in my book. Pretty amazing. Not sure 1.7 million amazing or maybe even 400k amazing but pretty pretty darn amazing.
 

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I 100% doubt any watches thinner than 8mm will come from replicas but I would love to eat my words.

I dont think rep factories have the capabilities to work with the materials required to craft such a watch.

If I recall the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo was using tungsten carbide in it's ultra thin watch as a backplate, which is insane - machining tungsten carbide at a sub 1mm thickness is cutting edge stuff.
 
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magge87

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I have a nice Sternglas Hamburg watch. It is quartz, but very nice, can easily compete with Nomos and the likes...