Rolli and FGD (aka GPFModDep) have been collaborating on dial projects for the past few years. Project after project has resulted in high end Swiss quality dials, with no detail or expense spared. So, the question that everyone kept asking was... When will you be taking on the Pre-V dials? The wait is over.
The first preview pics on RWGForum delivered more than I expected.
A couple of important notes to consider about this dial. It is not a Chinese replica dial. It is made in the same dial shops that make parts for other Swiss makers. It's lumed with authentic RC Tritec lume (I've done a time elapsed test against gen lume and the Rolli dials match in duration of glow power). The quality and finish is every bit as good as gen. The lacquer fill on the numbers and indices is the same used on the gen Pre-V dials; UV 820, a natural resin lacquer that will dull and age over time, just like the gen dials. Finally, this is the most accurate Pre-V dial ever made and the first one to combine accurate number shape with accurate serif font.
I ordered the day after the original thread was posted and a week later my dial arrived. Luckily I had a Unitas low beat 6497 waiting...
There were only a couple of problems with the movement. First, this was no time for the old nail clipper trick on the seconds pinion... NO WAY. The wheel must be swapped.
It's important to note that you should remove the pallet fork before swapping the seconds wheel. This will keep you from damaging the pallet jewels when rebuilding the gear train.
Much Better!
Next the mounting screw notches on the old school bridge needed to be enlarged to fit wrist watch mounting tabs
Time to mount the dial
Check out the reflection of the light on the dial. This shimmer is from the bead blasted anodized surface. An amazing gen feature, no Chinese rep maker would ever touch.
Time for a lume shot
Next up, the case. The genuine Pre-V case has more than a few hallmark features.
The fat, stubby lugs
rounded and heavily polished cushion shape
Polished rehaut
Fatty CG body
In my opinion, there are only a few rep cases that can serve as a good platform for this build: The David Wong, or the Noob111J, 111M, or 111N
I picked my 111M out of the parts box for the reshape.
Screw you Strap Notch...Goodbye
How can I forget about the crown. One of these is gen and one is a DSN with a little extra polishing.
The Gen cushion shape is not too hard to achieve. Gentle sloping of the edges and corners is all you need. I achieved this with a soft nail file from a beauty supply store. BUT... There are a couple of important features.
To be accurate to get you have to drill the lugs to 1.6mm. This means you have to use WSO lug bars and screws. DSNs lug bars measure around 1.75mm... too large and believe me you can see the difference if you look long enough
The other important point is to not forget to soften the edge between the lugs. Most reshaped neglect this feature. But if you study enough gen pictures you will see this edge too is rounded and polished.
Finally and perhaps most important is the Pre-V CG. It is noticeably more "fat" than the current historic CG. The absolute best readily available option is to use the DSN body along with the Sead A-F CG lever. DSNs new CG body is .10mm skinnier than his previous version, but it can accept the Sead lever with no modification. Quite nice! You'll also note a concentric spin finish on the CG pin. This is a distinctly Pre-V way to finish the CG pin.
Final finishing touches. The David Wong caseback is one of the best ever made. But they all came with no paint fill. Let's get out some Tamiya flat black lacquer....
And now some paint thinner to rub back the surface paint... Perfect.
I can't forget about the ULTIMATE Pre-V buckle from one of the best craftsman in this hobby. Elias on Homage Forum
Some wrist shots...
Time for a new Pre-V team photo
I hope you enjoyed the read and the pictures as much as I enjoyed the process!
The first preview pics on RWGForum delivered more than I expected.
A couple of important notes to consider about this dial. It is not a Chinese replica dial. It is made in the same dial shops that make parts for other Swiss makers. It's lumed with authentic RC Tritec lume (I've done a time elapsed test against gen lume and the Rolli dials match in duration of glow power). The quality and finish is every bit as good as gen. The lacquer fill on the numbers and indices is the same used on the gen Pre-V dials; UV 820, a natural resin lacquer that will dull and age over time, just like the gen dials. Finally, this is the most accurate Pre-V dial ever made and the first one to combine accurate number shape with accurate serif font.
I ordered the day after the original thread was posted and a week later my dial arrived. Luckily I had a Unitas low beat 6497 waiting...
There were only a couple of problems with the movement. First, this was no time for the old nail clipper trick on the seconds pinion... NO WAY. The wheel must be swapped.
It's important to note that you should remove the pallet fork before swapping the seconds wheel. This will keep you from damaging the pallet jewels when rebuilding the gear train.
Much Better!
Next the mounting screw notches on the old school bridge needed to be enlarged to fit wrist watch mounting tabs
Time to mount the dial
Check out the reflection of the light on the dial. This shimmer is from the bead blasted anodized surface. An amazing gen feature, no Chinese rep maker would ever touch.
Time for a lume shot
Next up, the case. The genuine Pre-V case has more than a few hallmark features.
The fat, stubby lugs
rounded and heavily polished cushion shape
Polished rehaut
Fatty CG body
In my opinion, there are only a few rep cases that can serve as a good platform for this build: The David Wong, or the Noob111J, 111M, or 111N
I picked my 111M out of the parts box for the reshape.
Screw you Strap Notch...Goodbye
How can I forget about the crown. One of these is gen and one is a DSN with a little extra polishing.
The Gen cushion shape is not too hard to achieve. Gentle sloping of the edges and corners is all you need. I achieved this with a soft nail file from a beauty supply store. BUT... There are a couple of important features.
To be accurate to get you have to drill the lugs to 1.6mm. This means you have to use WSO lug bars and screws. DSNs lug bars measure around 1.75mm... too large and believe me you can see the difference if you look long enough
The other important point is to not forget to soften the edge between the lugs. Most reshaped neglect this feature. But if you study enough gen pictures you will see this edge too is rounded and polished.
Finally and perhaps most important is the Pre-V CG. It is noticeably more "fat" than the current historic CG. The absolute best readily available option is to use the DSN body along with the Sead A-F CG lever. DSNs new CG body is .10mm skinnier than his previous version, but it can accept the Sead lever with no modification. Quite nice! You'll also note a concentric spin finish on the CG pin. This is a distinctly Pre-V way to finish the CG pin.
Final finishing touches. The David Wong caseback is one of the best ever made. But they all came with no paint fill. Let's get out some Tamiya flat black lacquer....
And now some paint thinner to rub back the surface paint... Perfect.
I can't forget about the ULTIMATE Pre-V buckle from one of the best craftsman in this hobby. Elias on Homage Forum
Some wrist shots...
Time for a new Pre-V team photo
I hope you enjoyed the read and the pictures as much as I enjoyed the process!
