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The 26238ST ROO: A short review and thoughts

legend

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While waiting for my second 26238 piece (the green dial titanium model for those interested) to arrive, I decided to share my thoughts on the 42mm 26238ST which I had received from the boutique.




The gulf color theme is beautiful in real life, and seems to get its inspiration from the signature gulf edition Porsche. The color theme makes the watch vibrant to look at, especially when paired with a textured rubber straps meant to look like textile. IMHO the color combination is a winner.
The new 26238 ROOs all feature the cal. 4404 first used in the code 11.59 chronograph series. It is a flyback chronograph movement, and IMHO a lot more refined than the predecessing 3126/3840 movement, with a 28800bph beat, a longer reserve (70hrs vs 55hrs) and an integrated chronograph function. Along with this core engine switches comes a new second@6 movement instead of the second@12, equidistant 6-9-12 subdials and a datewheel which is no longer sunken. The new dial layout makes it look neater, along with the removal of the "Audemars Piguet" text which used to sit below the AP logo. The AP logo is still present and is bigger now compared with before. I personally dislike the raised ring around the datewheel, and the datewheel itself. Using a new font and cyclop for the non-sunken datewheel ironically reduces the date legibility vs the preceding 26470 models which feature a clear cyclop and a larger date font size which I found to be very helpful when trying to read the date. Also welcome for me is the decision to revert the hands back to something which very much resemble the 26170 style ROO hands, and also the reversion of the crown and pushers back to rubber, as visual nods to the ROO heritage. One thing I note is that the crystal seems to have upgraded from the previous generation of ROOs, with better clarity and it makes the dial pop like never before seen on previous ROOs.


The use of the 4404 caliber also means that the crown and pushers are now aligned, instead of the crown being sunken vs the pushers like how we have always known ROOs to show. Personally, I like this change as this change, along with the slightly thicker caseback, prevents the crown from the crown biting into my wrist like before (I wear my watches on my right wrist). The crown guards have been also beefed up and while subtle, it is a change for the sharp eyed, and pushes the ROO deeper into masculine territory.



The ROO case is now chunkier than before, and to be honest, the 26470 wears more comfortably for me vs the 26238. The watch is top heavy and protrudes from the wrist like an unwelcome miniature spaceship, which makes it prone to dings and scratches. The change in wear-dynamics will need some getting used to, even for seasoned ROO wearers. Doubt not, the watch looks and feel chunky and for me this is a downside for the new ROO iteration, and this is primarily caused by the caliber switch as well. The previous 3126/3840 mvoement was 7.16mm and this new 4404 movement is 8mm.



The caseback engravings are now minimal and sharp, with a "Royal Oak Offshore" engraved at the top and the serial number of the watch at the bottom. The 4404 caliber proudly presents itself, showing off its glorious finish and the simplified 22k rose gold rotor with a single large AP logo, which ensures that the watch charges well with the wrist movement when worn. The caliber is the central core change in the new ROO, which necessitated the rest of the changes in the dial, datewheel and case thickness. Like it or hate it, it is something which is here to stay in line with AP's move to use in-house movements across its entire range.




Another important, and very welcome change is the quick change straps and buckle. Strap change has always been the nightmare of AP owners in the past, requiring what seems to be 3 hands, a variety of tools and patience of a martyr. The straps can now be released within a couple of seconds with the very clever release buttons found on the underside of the 4 endlinks. I find this superior to the quickchange system employed by the Hublot Unico Big Bangs as the release buttons can only be accessed when the watch is removed from the wrist, as opposed to someone else being able to press the release button when the watch is worn, for the Big Bang. The buckle is a tang type and can be removed and installed as easily by flipping up one end of the clasp, and sliding the entire buckle out. The procedure is easily reversed when putting it on another strap, all in the matter of seconds and without using any tool at all. It is a quickchange system that can be done literally with the eyes closed.

Overall, there are more positive than negative changes for me in the new ROO. The ROO line had needed a refreshment for sometime now to regain its position as a top dog of the range sports chrono watches. The caliber upgrade and the quickchange straps system certainly are very welcome for AP owners. The date font, and date window ring are both ugly for me personally. The wear-feel is also a slight downgrade. Overall, it feels that the ROO has grown up and come of age. It is a much needed evolution from AP and something owners and fans would be mostly happy with, and impressed by.
 

legend

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Thanks for that, Legend!!!! I will be keeping my eyes on these new Roos!!!
You are welcome. You will enjoy it. It’s a watch which needs to be seen and felt in person to appreciate the updates AP did.
 
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TESLA760

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I've loved this piece since the first time I saw it at a grey market reseller here. I would take that strap off and have one custom made in gator with orange stitching.
 
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legend

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I've loved this piece since the first time I saw it at a grey market reseller here. I would take that strap off and have one custom made in gator with orange stitching.
I thought of a custom white straps too but the issue would be the integrated locking pins built into the straps. These connect directly into the endlinks.
I guess like Hublot, it’s only a matter of time before third party makers release wonderful strap options for these ROOs.
 
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Virpag

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LOL even AP decided to drop the decorative plates off the movement
beautiful watch wear in good health L
 
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purplehaze89

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Thank you for the writeup sir. This might be one i go gen on (no AP boutique where I'm at but will be traveling to HK where my brother already has a relationship with the AD there) so I might pick your brain on this a bit later if you don't mind!
 

legend

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Thank you for the writeup sir. This might be one i go gen on (no AP boutique where I'm at but will be traveling to HK where my brother already has a relationship with the AD there) so I might pick your brain on this a bit later if you don't mind!
You’re welcome.

The 26238 is more refined and I’ll sum up my perceived pros and cons for those too lazy to read and for you to make your decision:

Pros
- new caliber is a lot more refined than the older one. Having a beat rate of 28800bph and 70hrs (not that it’s really needed) brings the watch in line with the standard the competitor sport watches are offering.

- love the quickchange straps/buckle system

- love the second@6 movement. It is cleaner and more visible than having the second@12.

- the new crystal has more clarity than the older ROOs

- a revertion to rubber pushers, crown and 26170 style hands are nods toward the AP ROO heritage.

- the overall feel of the watch is familiar and yet novel. Much of the AP DNA is retained in this new generation.

Cons
- watch wears chunkier on the wrist

- undecorated movement is ugly imho

- I prefer the previous rotor decoration

- despite being closer to the dial surface I find the date harder to read.

- dislike the raised ring around the date window. I find that it interferes with the dial lines.

- it is a lot pricier than the previous generation of ROOs.
 

purplehaze89

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Interesting feedback. Thanks Legend. I wonder if it was costs or a function of the case size for AP to 'strip' the movement of the decorations.

I was also considering the 26420 (pending availability) because I kind of like the RO Chrono subdial placement scheme. I like the color scheme above much more though.
 

CptnDeadpool15

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You’re welcome.

The 26238 is more refined and I’ll sum up my perceived pros and cons for those too lazy to read and for you to make your decision:

Pros
- new caliber is a lot more refined than the older one. Having a beat rate of 28800bph and 70hrs (not that it’s really needed) brings the watch in line with the standard the competitor sport watches are offering.

- love the quickchange straps/buckle system

- love the second@6 movement. It is cleaner and more visible than having the second@12.

- the new crystal has more clarity than the older ROOs

- a revertion to rubber pushers, crown and 26170 style hands are nods toward the AP ROO heritage.

- the overall feel of the watch is familiar and yet novel. Much of the AP DNA is retained in this new generation.

Cons
- watch wears chunkier on the wrist

- undecorated movement is ugly imho

- I prefer the previous rotor decoration

- despite being closer to the dial surface I find the date harder to read.

- dislike the raised ring around the date window. I find that it interferes with the dial lines.

- it is a lot pricier than the previous generation of ROOs.
Great info in both your original and now follow up posts, it is greatly appreciated!

Would you please confirm the case thickness? I have seen it listed as a 15.5mm and a 17mm at 2 different TD sites.
 

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Great info in both your original and now follow up posts, it is greatly appreciated!

Would you please confirm the case thickness? I have seen it listed as a 15.5mm and a 17mm at 2 different TD sites.
He is reviewing a GEN not a REP.
 
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legend

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Great info in both your original and now follow up posts, it is greatly appreciated!

Would you please confirm the case thickness? I have seen it listed as a 15.5mm and a 17mm at 2 different TD sites.
The rep will be closer to 17mm (16mm+ if I recall correctly), and the gen is about 15.5mm or so, give or take. I can't remember the exact thickness of the 26238 but it is definitely thicker than the older 26170 or 26470 ROOs.
 
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CptnDeadpool15

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Thank you for the response sir, greatly appreciated as always!

FYI, AP states the AP26238 case thickness as 15.3mm, which is why I got excited that a TD was saying 15.5mm on the rep.
 

legend

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Thank you for the response sir, greatly appreciated as always!

FYI, AP states the AP26238 case thickness as 15.3mm, which is why I got excited that a TD was saying 15.5mm on the rep.
Even if the two thickness is spot on, the tells are way too many. Don’t be too excited just because of the thickness accuracy.