Now for Part 2 Oiling and Assembly of the 6497 movement 
Oiling the Balance wheel jewels. This is the most important part of the watch movement service and the hardest part to do, as it's very fiddly!!.
Starting with the Jewelled shock–absorber for balance, bottom (although it is the same procedure for the top jewel!), to press–in, cylindrical (Part # 205).
Figure 15 Bottom jewel assembly (Part #205).
Press the spring on one side indicated with a red arrow to release one spring end from the jewel mounting and then repeat on the other side. One released, the spring can be flipped up into the upright position, thus releasing the jewel cap (indicted with the green arrow).
Figure 16 Top Jewel assembly.
The easiest way to remove the jewel cap, is to place a small amount of Rodico on a cocktail stick and press down on the jewel to allow it to be lifted off. (If the jewels need cleaning, then you will need to clean them in Bergeon ‘One-Dip').
Apply Mobius 9010 oil to ¾ of the area on the jewel as shown with a red circle.
Carefully, place the jewel cap back on top of the main jewel and refit the bottom jewel assembly into the movement base plate.
Lower and refit the jewel spring to ensure that the jewel is properly seated and over the balance wheel spindle. Try not to allow the jewel assembly to fly off, never to be found again!
You can of course, fit the (or leave the) the main jewel in the movement and only remove the jewel cap (using Rodico on a stick) and oil in situ.
Repeat the procedure for the top balance wheel jewel assembly (Part #3024, shown in Figure 16.
Figure 17 Balance Wheel jewel removed. (Jewel cap is on the left).
We now move onto oiling the mainspring in the barrel assembly.
The Barrel assembly (Part #180) is made up of 4 parts:-
(1) Barrel drum (Part #185).
(2) Barrel Cover (Part #190).
(3) Barrel Arbor (Part #195).
(4) And of course the main spring (Part #770)
To remove the barrel cover, place the barrel on a hard surface with the threaded part of the barrel arbor pointing down (Peg end of the arbor pointing up)
Gentally press down and the barrel cover should unclip, leaving the main spring exposed as shown in Figure 17.
Apply beads of Bergeon 8141 oil, to the areas shown in Figure 17. Refit the barrel cover and press hard against the barrel drum until it clicks into place.
Figure 18 Barrel Main Spring, oiling positions.
Oiling Jewels
When oiling jewels, the key thing to think is, have I put too much oil on the jewel such that if the watch is jolted, the oil could fly off??
So we are talking about applying the smallest amount of oil, to just cover the pinion and/or jewel hole.
If you apply too much oil, remove the excess with some Radico.
Figure 19a & 19b Show the cross-sections of a typical gear jewel. You can see that all you need to do is add a tiny amount of oil around the exposed pinion.
Figure 19a Cross section of a balance wheel jewel.
Figure 19b Cross section of a typical gear jewel.
Apply tiny amounts of Mobius 9010 to the Escape wheel and Second wheel jewels. Apply a tiny amount of Mobius 9020 to the third wheel jewel.
Figure 20 Refit the Escape Wheel.
Apply some Moibius D5 around the movement plate hole where the peg end of the arbor (on the barrel assembly) is seated.
Figure 21 Oiling Barrel Jewel with Mobius D5.
Oil the centre wheel jewel with Mobius 9020 and refit the barrel assembly. Note that we also apply small amounts of Mobius 9020 to the top pinions of the escape wheel and third wheel, where they mesh with the second wheel.
Figure 22 Barrel Assembly re-fitted and centre wheel oiling..
Drop the centre wheel pinion into the centre wheel jewel and add a tiny amount of Mobius 9020 to the place where the centre wheel meshes with the third wheel.
This completes oiling of the drive train and now it is time to re-fit the drive train bridge.
Figure 23 Refit Centre Wheel.
Now we come to a delicate oiling procedure, the oiling of the pallet fork stones!
Using the finest tipped oiler (ie the black one) apply a tiny amount of Mobius 9010 to the tip of each pallet fork stone, as shown in Figure 23.
You will probably have to manoeuvre the oiler through the balance wheel, although there is some access on the other side of the movement if required.
Figure 24 Oiled pallet stones.
Place the drive train bridge plate (Part #110) over the three pinions of the escape wheel, second & third wheels.
WARNING!! DO NOT press down the drive train bridge, until the drive wheel pinions are correctly located in the drive train bridges.
If necessary, carefully move the wheels, to correctly position the pinions in their jewels using an oiler or cocktail stick.
Only when you are sure that all the pinions are correctly located, can you screw down the drive train bridge!
When the plate has been screwed down, apply a small amount of oil to the three jewels on the drive train bridge plate as shown in Figure 22. You only need to apply enough oil to partially fill the recess immediately around the protruding pinion.
Figure 25 Refit Train Bridge.
Fitting the barrel bridge is easier as you only have to locate the centre wheel pinion and barrel arbor.
Apply a small amount of Mobius D5 to the centre wheel jewel located on the barrel bridge plate (Part #105).
Figure 26 Refit Barrel Bridge.
Now it's time to re-assemble the keyless works.
Drop in the Winding pinion (Part #410) & the Sliding Pinion (Part #407) and then slide the stem in.
Apply Bergeon KT-22 grease in the areas shown by a red arrow in Figure 24. Refit the Setting Lever (Part #443) ensuring that the peg engages with the slot in the stem.
Now fit the three setting wheels, Setting Wheel (Part #450), Intermediate Setting Wheel (Part #453) and Minute Wheel (Part #260). Apply a tiny amount of Mobius D5 to the areas indicated with a blue arrow.
Figure 27 Reassemble the Keyless Works – Part1.
Fit the Yoke (Part #435) so that it rests in the recess of the sliding pinion and the tip rests against the
Setting Lever (Part #443). Apply KT-22 & D5 as indicated in Figure 25.
Now the tricky part, refit the Yoke Spring (Part #440) and......
Figure 28 Reassemble the Keyless Works – Part2.
....carefully fit the Setting Jumper (Part #445) over the keyless works and fit the retaining screw (Part #5445)
Figure 29 Reassemble the Keyless Works – Part3.
The stem is pulled out in this photo (Figure 26). The ‘tail' of the Setting Lever Jumper, engages with the top peg of the Setting lever.
Fit the Canon Driver Pinion (Part #240). You have to press down fairly hard with say the flat part of some tweezers or use a Pin Vice, until you hear it click into place (make sure that the gears are correctly located, before pressing down on the pinion).
Figure 30 Refit the Canon Pinion.
Refit the Crown Wheel (Part #420) and Ratchet Wheel (Part #415).
Ensure that the click wheel spring is correctly seated (refer to Figure 9) and then fit the Click Wheel (Part #425) with the spring tip sticking up between the click wheel recess/cutout.
Figure 31 Refit the Ratchet Wheel, Click Wheel & Crown Wheel.
Also shown in this figure, are the two dial retaining screws (Dark blue arrows). As the screws are turned, they cause a bladed washer to move across the dial foot hole. With the dial foot in the hole, the turning of the screw locks the bladed washer into the dial foot.
Refit the Hour Wheel (Part #250). This wheel is held in place with a Dial (sprung) washer pressed against the wheel and the dial. Without the Dial Washer the hour hand will be able to move up & down !
Figure 32 Refit the Hour Pinion.
Dial sprung washer in position.
Figure 33 Refit the Dial Washer!
The dial can now be fitted. Make sure that the dial screws are correctly positioned to clear the dial foot retaining holes in the movement. Place dial on the movement and hold in position while tightening the dial retaining screws.
Obviously ensure that suitable precautions are used to protect the dial, like wearing surgical gloves/finger cots and placing watch paper over the dial.
Figure 34 Fit the new dial over the movement.
End of part 2!!
Part 3 Covers fitting of the hands, Case, Stem etc
Oiling the Balance wheel jewels. This is the most important part of the watch movement service and the hardest part to do, as it's very fiddly!!.
Starting with the Jewelled shock–absorber for balance, bottom (although it is the same procedure for the top jewel!), to press–in, cylindrical (Part # 205).
Figure 15 Bottom jewel assembly (Part #205).
Press the spring on one side indicated with a red arrow to release one spring end from the jewel mounting and then repeat on the other side. One released, the spring can be flipped up into the upright position, thus releasing the jewel cap (indicted with the green arrow).
Figure 16 Top Jewel assembly.
The easiest way to remove the jewel cap, is to place a small amount of Rodico on a cocktail stick and press down on the jewel to allow it to be lifted off. (If the jewels need cleaning, then you will need to clean them in Bergeon ‘One-Dip').
Apply Mobius 9010 oil to ¾ of the area on the jewel as shown with a red circle.
Carefully, place the jewel cap back on top of the main jewel and refit the bottom jewel assembly into the movement base plate.
Lower and refit the jewel spring to ensure that the jewel is properly seated and over the balance wheel spindle. Try not to allow the jewel assembly to fly off, never to be found again!
You can of course, fit the (or leave the) the main jewel in the movement and only remove the jewel cap (using Rodico on a stick) and oil in situ.
Repeat the procedure for the top balance wheel jewel assembly (Part #3024, shown in Figure 16.
Figure 17 Balance Wheel jewel removed. (Jewel cap is on the left).
We now move onto oiling the mainspring in the barrel assembly.
The Barrel assembly (Part #180) is made up of 4 parts:-
(1) Barrel drum (Part #185).
(2) Barrel Cover (Part #190).
(3) Barrel Arbor (Part #195).
(4) And of course the main spring (Part #770)
To remove the barrel cover, place the barrel on a hard surface with the threaded part of the barrel arbor pointing down (Peg end of the arbor pointing up)
Gentally press down and the barrel cover should unclip, leaving the main spring exposed as shown in Figure 17.
Apply beads of Bergeon 8141 oil, to the areas shown in Figure 17. Refit the barrel cover and press hard against the barrel drum until it clicks into place.
Figure 18 Barrel Main Spring, oiling positions.
Oiling Jewels
When oiling jewels, the key thing to think is, have I put too much oil on the jewel such that if the watch is jolted, the oil could fly off??
So we are talking about applying the smallest amount of oil, to just cover the pinion and/or jewel hole.
If you apply too much oil, remove the excess with some Radico.
Figure 19a & 19b Show the cross-sections of a typical gear jewel. You can see that all you need to do is add a tiny amount of oil around the exposed pinion.
Figure 19a Cross section of a balance wheel jewel.
Figure 19b Cross section of a typical gear jewel.
Apply tiny amounts of Mobius 9010 to the Escape wheel and Second wheel jewels. Apply a tiny amount of Mobius 9020 to the third wheel jewel.
Figure 20 Refit the Escape Wheel.
Apply some Moibius D5 around the movement plate hole where the peg end of the arbor (on the barrel assembly) is seated.
Figure 21 Oiling Barrel Jewel with Mobius D5.
Oil the centre wheel jewel with Mobius 9020 and refit the barrel assembly. Note that we also apply small amounts of Mobius 9020 to the top pinions of the escape wheel and third wheel, where they mesh with the second wheel.
Figure 22 Barrel Assembly re-fitted and centre wheel oiling..
Drop the centre wheel pinion into the centre wheel jewel and add a tiny amount of Mobius 9020 to the place where the centre wheel meshes with the third wheel.
This completes oiling of the drive train and now it is time to re-fit the drive train bridge.
Figure 23 Refit Centre Wheel.
Now we come to a delicate oiling procedure, the oiling of the pallet fork stones!
Using the finest tipped oiler (ie the black one) apply a tiny amount of Mobius 9010 to the tip of each pallet fork stone, as shown in Figure 23.
You will probably have to manoeuvre the oiler through the balance wheel, although there is some access on the other side of the movement if required.
Figure 24 Oiled pallet stones.
Place the drive train bridge plate (Part #110) over the three pinions of the escape wheel, second & third wheels.
WARNING!! DO NOT press down the drive train bridge, until the drive wheel pinions are correctly located in the drive train bridges.
If necessary, carefully move the wheels, to correctly position the pinions in their jewels using an oiler or cocktail stick.
Only when you are sure that all the pinions are correctly located, can you screw down the drive train bridge!
When the plate has been screwed down, apply a small amount of oil to the three jewels on the drive train bridge plate as shown in Figure 22. You only need to apply enough oil to partially fill the recess immediately around the protruding pinion.
Figure 25 Refit Train Bridge.
Fitting the barrel bridge is easier as you only have to locate the centre wheel pinion and barrel arbor.
Apply a small amount of Mobius D5 to the centre wheel jewel located on the barrel bridge plate (Part #105).
Figure 26 Refit Barrel Bridge.
Now it's time to re-assemble the keyless works.
Drop in the Winding pinion (Part #410) & the Sliding Pinion (Part #407) and then slide the stem in.
Apply Bergeon KT-22 grease in the areas shown by a red arrow in Figure 24. Refit the Setting Lever (Part #443) ensuring that the peg engages with the slot in the stem.
Now fit the three setting wheels, Setting Wheel (Part #450), Intermediate Setting Wheel (Part #453) and Minute Wheel (Part #260). Apply a tiny amount of Mobius D5 to the areas indicated with a blue arrow.
Figure 27 Reassemble the Keyless Works – Part1.
Fit the Yoke (Part #435) so that it rests in the recess of the sliding pinion and the tip rests against the
Setting Lever (Part #443). Apply KT-22 & D5 as indicated in Figure 25.
Now the tricky part, refit the Yoke Spring (Part #440) and......
Figure 28 Reassemble the Keyless Works – Part2.
....carefully fit the Setting Jumper (Part #445) over the keyless works and fit the retaining screw (Part #5445)
Figure 29 Reassemble the Keyless Works – Part3.
The stem is pulled out in this photo (Figure 26). The ‘tail' of the Setting Lever Jumper, engages with the top peg of the Setting lever.
Fit the Canon Driver Pinion (Part #240). You have to press down fairly hard with say the flat part of some tweezers or use a Pin Vice, until you hear it click into place (make sure that the gears are correctly located, before pressing down on the pinion).
Figure 30 Refit the Canon Pinion.
Refit the Crown Wheel (Part #420) and Ratchet Wheel (Part #415).
Ensure that the click wheel spring is correctly seated (refer to Figure 9) and then fit the Click Wheel (Part #425) with the spring tip sticking up between the click wheel recess/cutout.
Figure 31 Refit the Ratchet Wheel, Click Wheel & Crown Wheel.
Also shown in this figure, are the two dial retaining screws (Dark blue arrows). As the screws are turned, they cause a bladed washer to move across the dial foot hole. With the dial foot in the hole, the turning of the screw locks the bladed washer into the dial foot.
Refit the Hour Wheel (Part #250). This wheel is held in place with a Dial (sprung) washer pressed against the wheel and the dial. Without the Dial Washer the hour hand will be able to move up & down !
Figure 32 Refit the Hour Pinion.
Dial sprung washer in position.
Figure 33 Refit the Dial Washer!
The dial can now be fitted. Make sure that the dial screws are correctly positioned to clear the dial foot retaining holes in the movement. Place dial on the movement and hold in position while tightening the dial retaining screws.
Obviously ensure that suitable precautions are used to protect the dial, like wearing surgical gloves/finger cots and placing watch paper over the dial.
Figure 34 Fit the new dial over the movement.
End of part 2!!
Part 3 Covers fitting of the hands, Case, Stem etc