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Servicing a 3135

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Hey all,

Ive been posting over here; https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/on-the-bench-my-watchmaking-journey.10926371/

Thought it maybe worth while posting this 3135 write up I did, where people can find it easier under an appropriate thread name. Enjoy



Hey, Here is the 3135 assembly as promised, does take a while to write up but hopefully worth it and useful to someone out there!

Starting off here with the keyless works, stem receives moebius 9504,


installing winding pinion and sliding pinion to the main plate, these get 9504 to the teeth where metal meets metal. I insert the stem while installing the winding and sliding pinion, because they would fall out the bottom of the movement if you didn't. Then time for the yoke for sliding pinion, this is why you need some 9504 on the cut out of the sliding pinion where this sits as there will be some friction on these parts. How the tech sheet guides you through the 3135 the next part is the spring for yoke, however I like to install the yoke for setting wheel first, this also gets 9504 in three spots, the opening where it sits on the post, the opening where the setting lever will interact with this part and the post where the setting wheel will sit, however this comes a little later. Once installed its time for the setting lever itself, the large post to the underside receives 9504, this then slots into the main plate, the spring for setting lever can then be installed and screwed down. this is where I then install the yoke spring, I find it easier to install at this stage, as most will know these springs like to fly and I don't want to be on my hands and knees searching for a part so thin I can barely see it!
Once this is all correctly installed the jumper for setting lever can be installed, on the 3135 this allows you to be in 3 positions, winding, date selection and time selection, on a 3130 you'd have only two positions, time and winding. Where jumper for setting lever interacts with the setting lever it also receives 9504.


We can now flip the movement over and install the minute pinion, this also gets 9504 to the base and the wall, where it is likely to sit near the main plate. The minute pinion bridge can now be installed and screwed down.

Flip back over and were back on the dial side, we lubricate three posts here, for minute wheel and two setting wheels.
But firstly we install the cannon pinion, proceeded with the minute wheel and two setting wheels, the motion works cover plate can then be installed.

Movement can then be flipped back over, and now we can install the train of wheels. Firstly I like to start with the mainspring barrel, using a mainspring winder we can wind the mainspring back to circular form, ensuring we grease the mainspring barrel walls with 8213, 9504 to the barrel arbour and then install the mainspring into the barrel, a fairly satisfying procedure.
Before installing the escape wheel, I want to treat several parts with Epilame. I use this to the escape wheel, pallet fork and automatic reversing wheels, usually for 2 minutes and dry before installing. I do this all at the same time, dry them on some watchmakers paper, this usually doesn't take long as Epilame evaporates quickly, but I like to use a blower while steadying the parts.
Epilame is a surface treatment which helps prevent the spread of lubricants.
Then I start with the escape wheel, followed by the second wheel, great wheel and third wheel, this then allows you to install the train wheel bridge and screw down.


Balance stop can then be installed to the main plate, along with the crown wheel and winding bridge, this needs to be lubricated separately, starting with the crown wheel core, this gets 9504 to the wall and base, crown wheel can then be installed ensuring this is also lubricated with 9504 to the teeth and top of crown wheel, this can then be screwed down and installed to the main plate.

Barrel bridge can then be installed once train of wheels are spinning freely and screwed down, and then proceed to installing the pallet fork and pallet bridge, pallet jewel receives 9415, in a very small quantity. Once we have all bridges install, we can then lubricate the second wheel, great wheel and third wheel bridge jewels. All shock jewels should be removed and cleaned separately - I like to take my time with these and oil them under a microscope.
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
We now proceed with installing the core for intermediate crown wheel which receives 9504 to the post walls, the intermediate crown wheel then installed to the core, then the yoke for sliding gear, the gear itself gets HP1300. The post for the click, gets lubricated with 9504, then we can install the spring, and then the click and screw down securely, this then allows the mainspring to hold power once the ratchet wheel is installed. Once wound I like to check if the pallet is holding power, this can be done by a little flick of the tail.


Time for the balance to be installed, and it kicks straight into action, followed by installing the balance guard and screwing down.
Now we have a running watch, it's time for the watch to go back onto the timergraph machine, I usually check to see how its running before disassembly and then once the balance is installed. I try to aim for +/- 10 sec/day for rep movements, below 1.0 beat error, after a bit of tweaking, not much this is where we're at; 0 sec/day, 0.0 beat error and 292 amplitude, very happy with this one.


Now we can flip the movement back over to work on the dial side to finish off the motion works, starting here with spring for cam yoke, date wheel post receives 9504 before installing. Cam yoke can then be installed receiving 9504 to the cam jewel post and yoke where this hits the yoke spring. Date finger can then be installed and screwed down, underside of the screw gets lubricated with 9504. Cannon pinion receives HP1300, Hour wheel can then be installed, followed by the intermediate date wheel, intermediate date corrector wheel and date corrector.
I then get the date indicator seating, flip over and install the date jumper, this receives 9504 in various areas, to the post hole and clip where it slide in on the underside, it also gets 9504 to the tip where it meets the date wheel... the pictures will do the explaining more justice than this explanation, instead of using 9504 here I opted for Molykote DX, in this area lubrication minimally is required, however didn't want the possibility of a blue grease making its way onto a date wheel, maybe I'm wrong for doing this but Molykote DX is heavily used in watchmaking. Date indicator seating can then be installed and screwed down with your 4 blue screws, they look awesome! and finally to finish off the assembly the date wheel can be installed. Apologies I though I had taken photos of this process but upon completion and whilst doing the write up, I realised I hadn't :(

But we aren't finished yet, we need to finish off the assembly with the automatic works. I usually start from the bottom up, with the oscillating weight/rotor which received HP1300 to the rotor post, then installing the automatic upper bridge, which allows you to install the pinion for oscillating weight, spring clip and bridle for spring clip, this can be screwed down, its also fairly intuitive with the automatic works. Then we can start with the two reversing wheels and driving wheel for ratchet wheel, this allows us to install the automatic lower bridge and screw down with three screws. all jewels get lubricated with HP1300.
 

Evox

Getting To Know The Place
4/8/22
98
56
18
Awesome run down. Thank you so much!
 

ZMCoupe

Known Member
Certified
5/3/21
120
126
43
Very detailed write up. Just the kind of thing to
give me enough (false) confidence to wreck a
Movement or two… jk lol

It’s amazing how skilled some of you are and your technical abilities and patience to learn how to fix and maintain these tiny intricate parts.
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Very detailed write up. Just the kind of thing to
give me enough (false) confidence to wreck a
Movement or two… jk lol

It’s amazing how skilled some of you are and your technical abilities and patience to learn how to fix and maintain these tiny intricate parts.
Thank you! :)
 

Taylor810

I'm just the strings on the fretboard of life
Supporter
Certified
26/11/20
168
40
28
Nashville, TN., U.S.A
Good work. I can appreciate the time to take and arrange the photos and the lighting was perfect.
Your written descriptions of step by step process were easy to understand and follow.
Especially liked the oil and grease highlights.

Thanks, a lot if work and we'll worth your efforts. Many thanks ! 😊
 
  • Like
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Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Good work. I can appreciate the time to take and arrange the photos and the lighting was perfect.
Your written descriptions of step by step process were easy to understand and follow.
Especially liked the oil and grease highlights.

Thanks, a lot if work and we'll worth your efforts. Many thanks ! 😊
Thanks for the kind words!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Taylor810

ndan246

Getting To Know The Place
Supporter
Certified
26/3/24
29
9
3
This was great! Thanks for the hard work! I am buying some oils/grease to start on my journey to disassemble, clean, lubricate and reassemble a VS3135 I bought for practice.

I have the HP1300 for jewel pivots
I have the 9415 for the pallet stones
I have the 9405 grease for keyless works/datewheel post

Are these the oly 3 oils/grease I need? What do I use to lubricate the posts of the train wheel. I understand I use the 1300 on the jewels after the train bridge has been installed but videos I have seen also lube the posts of the wheels before they are installed and the bridge is screwed down? I still have a lot more reading and video watching before I make my attempt but it looks like these are the only 3 products I need.

Any direction advice or resources is appreciated.