Seamaster 120 build

[paul837]

I spotted this watch on Hont’s website but searching high and low and it’s become apparent there’s no stock of this watch on the usual Chinese or viet marketplace.

This watch is so beautiful, it deserves to be remade. I decided to endeavor to create one out of respect after spotting a case kit on Esty UK. I really want to know where they come from because it doesn't seem to be a typical rep with it being made to take gen movement.
I was very nervous since the people selling this item on Esty don't seem professional sellers, not watchmakers and didn't seem knowledgeable about the overpriced items. They don't seem to want to reveal where they are made.

I'm pretty sure they have no returns and wouldn't stand behind their items given any major flaws or misalignments etc. The return address is a residential property and the sellers that use a fronting company name that doesn't give much info and tend to have very similar pics, was all red flags for me to be honest.


I think real SM120's are about £3k or so on ebay so I didn't fancy getting a gen. Most on ebay are fakes that have a couple of really obvious flaws (the bezel marker, Omega logo placement and color of text), the £2000 ones are almost certainly the kit shown above. Again, I would love to know the origin of this case set that seems to have been around for some time now since its documented on omega forums.

Surprisingly some rep/franken builds are from ebay watch sellers with feedback and even have the “Authenticity Guarantee” where the watch will send firstly to a watch inspector to authenticate before its sent to the buyer. Surely, they couldn’t pass through that process since the watch would be 60+ years old and also that the telltale signs of this fake case kit are well documented.

 

[paul837]

Inspected it, the case height on is about 7.7mm, it’s so neat and beautiful along with the 37mm case diameter (40mm with crown)

Had a look to see if NH35 or 8215 would fit, they are far too high, NH35=5.32mm and the omega cal. 601=3.35mm

I saw seagull clone of ETA 2824-2 might have the dimensions, based on Cousin's size chart but to fit but it looks like it would really need a lot of work to attach it with movement holder/dial spacers/case tabs then finding suitable hands as well so this is pointing me in the direction of a gen movement as per the design of the case set.

I considered one of the omega auto movements instead but the case back serial matches 601 and importantly the caseback looks deeper on the 565 from the sellers photos, the 565 auto is higher due to the rotor etc. (565=5.05mm height).

Next step is find a 601 or 611 off ebay that doesn’t require a service.

THE FOUR REFERENCES (for SM120):
135.027 Manual Movement, No Date, Caliber 601, 611
136.027 Manual Movement, with Date, Caliber 613
165.027 Auto Movement, No Date, Caliber 552
166.027 Auto Movement, with Date, Cailber 565

I’ve seen them go for as low as £200 off ebay for vintage watch’s in ‘working’ condition (such as Geneve’s). Only problem is they seem to be sold by vintage shops that don’t even have timegraphers so its like playing the loto if you can’t service them yourself, which I doubt I could since I’ve never serviced a movement before and don’t have access to omega parts.

 

[paul837]

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[freebalkany]

Hello, very cool project, would you mind sharing the link where you bought it?
As for the calibre 601, there is no way around it, you will have to buy one and get it properly serviced.
Good luck

 

[paul837]

Hello, very cool project, would you mind sharing the link where you bought it?
As for the calibre 601, there is no way around it, you will have to buy one and get it properly serviced.
Good luck

It looks like the seller I purchased from only had the one. If you simply search seamaster 120 in Esty, many will come up. There's acually watches that are pre-build with gen movements as well as the case kits (without movement) which I purchased.

Keep in mind that these aren't trusted dealers and support may be non existent.
They might be the same sellers, not sure.

 

[paul837]

Had a little look to see if there was a bracelet available but it doesn't look hopeful that I can get a matching end-link/bracelet fitting on the cheap (oem should be "1069 / 524 steel bracelet").

Got a 19mm dark brown leather strap with Omega marked buckle. Lovely size on my 7.5" wrist. My speedmaster reduced is excited to meet his brother.

 

[369mafia]

They relisted it

Omega Seamaster 120 Omega Seamaster Case Kit REF. 135.027-CAL - Etsy Canada

This Mens Wrist Watches item by TimexGB has 12 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from United Kingdom. Listed on 25 Jul, 2022

www.etsy.com

 

[369mafia]

IF I can vent for a second, I dont get ETSY.
I am a long time seller on there. and I recently started making 3d printed rolex key chains.
I had it listed for a week on there and rolex filed a copywrite strike on me and the listing was taken down.

rolex picking on a guy selling keychains but ETSY has its only sub section for " rolex replica watches" like selling replicas like its no big frickin deal but the idea of me selling a glow in the dark keychain is CRIMINIAL!!

go fuck youself etsy ..

end rant /

 

[paul837]

So I played the lotto with a Geneve, seems fine, amplitude’s over 250, bit slow rate (-12 sec per day) but perhaps it could be regulated.


Movement very clean so figured its serviced some time.
Caseback and bezel/glass assemble were pressure mounted, removed them with a knife
Movement removal was case tabs in the back and bezel removal



Dial fit on the 601 without mod. The feet were same length/diameter as the Geneve dial, there's 2 screws on the side to secure dial


Mounted SM120 hand with a bit of difficulty on the second hand, it refused to go on. It eventually went on but I noticed that when the hand travelled between 6 and 12 it pointed upwards and hitting the glass so that it stopped ticking, so I was sure the hand pinion or something was bent.

I mounted it on a DG2813 just to try and clear the tube of any scrap then reassembled it and it was actually fine, watched it travel round the whole rotational area without any change.


Attached to case using unrestricted omega items from CousinsUK
Omega 600 Stem (1106), Generic (OME6001106G) 1
Case Clamp, Omega 550 1974 (OME5501974) 2



The case clamps are about 4.5mm long, they were over £11 each with VAT for some reason! I could have cut down a generic one to be just like it but never mind

There is a little bit of play in the dial/movement if you mess around with stem but it can’t go up or down, all seems to fit nicely, perhaps the movement spacer ring could be bigger to stop the play but real thing could be like that as well for all I know.

Stem was 14.7mm in length in the end, had to be quite precise with this type of crown, was nervous about the amount of inserts/retracts but releasing it in time set position gentling pressing the button to release and to lock in didn’t end up hurting anything.



Second hand "back-hacks” to align
Left it over night and kept good time, power reserve seems great but losing more like -20 secs per day after being on this watch, perhaps the hands are heavier? Never bothered to regulate before but might do on this one.





I have noticed that the bezel on this rotates too easily, will rotate just brushing on the sleave of clothing. Additionally, 1 section of the acrylic makes an annoying cheap creak noise around the 9o'clock section like its not sat firmly/fully, it doesn't move around or rotate at all though so likely I will leave it as is and enjoy it for many months/years to come before ageing it and getting the movement serviced.

Overall really happy, feels strange to pick up as its so very lightweight and thin. It was £600 all in but I could perhaps sell the unused Geneve case/dial.

 

[freebalkany]

Nice, good job on that one man.
May I ask, you own a timegrapher, so I assume you also service your own watches?

 

[paul837]

Nice, good job on that one man.
May I ask, you own a timegrapher, so I assume you also service your own watches?

Thanks!
No, I've never touched a movement. One of the best things for me with reps is that you don't need to worry too much about services.

Reason for the timegraph; a few months back I decided that I wanted some watches (this one in particular and a aqua terra midsize) that weren't available though trusted dealers, smaller watches don't tend to be manufactured as often.
Since I knew this one would require some assemble skills I made a plan of attack and invested in some basic tools and have assembled a varity of watches, mostly from raffles to build up my skills and knowledge.

Here's most of builds so far, not planning much more now i've finished this but I'm still going with some of them, for example I'm swapping out the Miyota 8215 from the Cartier and putting a Seagul 2836-2 instead when it arrives from China.


I broke a £85 'Seagul 2824-2' movement during 1 build, the keyless mechanism broke so perhaps that might lead me down the path of movement service since my 34mm tudor build can't progress without it!