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Rolex 16233 Project

JSL121

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I'm new here, so I hope I am posting in the correct place. I'm looking for some advice. I want to build a watch for someone who the year 1996 is important/special. I'm open to any and all suggestions to my plan below. I'd obviously like to save as much money as I can. If money were no object I would buy this person a brand new DJ 36 #126283RBR. Like the picture below. Since I can't do that, I'd like to make one that's close.

What I am thinking is to go with the 12633 with:

1) A 1996 Ref# 12633 (no hole serial number) with a mint/tight (maybe even restored or unworn jubilee bracelet).

2) Clean crystal. I’d even be OK with a replacement crystal bc I want it to look new.

3) Replacement custom/aftermarket champagne diamond dial or a mint original, bc I want it to look brand new like the ref# 126283RBR

4) Replacement/custom diamond bezel that is like the factory Rolex one on the ref# 126283RBR.

5) Besides the replacement parts, I’d like all of the other parts/numbers to match


 

alligoat

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First of all, welcome aboard. There's a lot to learn here. You have a problem with your numbers. A Datejust from 1996 would be a 16233. But since then Rolex has come out with a 116233, maybe after 2000 or so. Recently Rolex has come out with a 126233. But your best bet is to look at the trusted dealers here and try to find the watch you're looking for.
But here's a dial
https://rafflesdials.com/28mm-champ...3-or-miyota-8215-automatic-movement-with-dwo/
to whet your appetite!
At any rate, this is a learning process. Good luck with your journey!
 
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RDRoss

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Honestly, if you really want to build something like this now you would be hard pressed to find a case set for less than $1700 and a bracelet will run you another $750 or so. Throw in a dial (Gen could run about $500 for a diamond model if you really look) and bezel and you are looking at $3000 already. A Gen 16233 would run you about $4500-$5000 or so. If you don’t mind using rep parts or are willing to use a five digit case set you can cut your costs down to a point where a franken might work.
Either way you look at it, it won’t be a cheap project.
 

JSL121

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Honestly, if you really want to build something like this now you would be hard pressed to find a case set for less than $1700 and a bracelet will run you another $750 or so. Throw in a dial (Gen could run about $500 for a diamond model if you really look) and bezel and you are looking at $3000 already. A Gen 16233 would run you about $4500-$5000 or so. If you don’t mind using rep parts or are willing to use a five digit case set you can cut your costs down to a point where a franken might work.
Either way you look at it, it won’t be a cheap project.
Great advice and feedback. Much appreciated.
 

eBoy

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A place of darkness and light a.k.a. EU
Honestly, if you really want to build something like this now you would be hard pressed to find a case set for less than $1700 and a bracelet will run you another $750 or so. Throw in a dial (Gen could run about $500 for a diamond model if you really look) and bezel and you are looking at $3000 already. A Gen 16233 would run you about $4500-$5000 or so. If you don’t mind using rep parts or are willing to use a five digit case set you can cut your costs down to a point where a franken might work.
Either way you look at it, it won’t be a cheap project.

Sounds like one of those cases where a Franken project is more about the "journey" than the end result.

To me, personally, once it's past 50% of the costs to go gen, it gradually keeps making less sense with every Euro or Dollar.

3000 USD vs 4500 USD for all-gen would be a no-brainer for me to go gen.

But then again, for someone other than me, the journey could be priceless. Or, like apparently in this case, every extra dollar counts. Absolutely nothing wrong with that, but it's important to at least point out that a gen with a real 1996 serial number would have a much different significance to that person than a Franken build that "pretends" to be the same. Just some food for thought...
 
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JSL121

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Sounds like one of those cases where a Franken project is more about the "journey" than the end result.

To me, personally, once it's past 50% of the costs to go gen, it gradually keeps making less sense with every Euro or Dollar.

3000 USD vs 4500 USD for all-gen would be a no-brainer for me to go gen.

But then again, for someone other than me, the journey could be priceless. Or, like apparently in this case, every extra dollar counts. Absolutely nothing wrong with that, but it's important to at least point out that a gen with a real 1996 serial number would have a much different significance to that person than a Franken build that "pretends" to be the same. Just some food for thought...
Absolutely excellent advice. I'm a newbie and I'm learning. Feedback like this is very much appreciated and why I joined RWI. I've been looking for a gen with a real 1996 serial number and the lowest I've seen has been ~$5,250 (ebay/Chrono24), plus tax. But, I will keep looking. I have time.
 

RDRoss

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Absolutely excellent advice. I'm a newbie and I'm learning. Feedback like this is very much appreciated and why I joined RWI. I've been looking for a gen with a real 1996 serial number and the lowest I've seen has been ~$5,250 (ebay/Chrono24), plus tax. But, I will keep looking. I have time.
Saw one on chrono24 today for $4500 ish.
 
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eBoy

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Saw one on chrono24 today for $4500 ish.

My guess is that these in this range are without box and papers and probably not in NOS condition.

But then again, you can always get it verified by a pro that it's all gen and that is still better w/out B&P than a Franken that by default comes w/out B&P (well, w/out genuine B&P, to be precise 😆).

About the condition (since the OP wants it to "look new"): If it's a younger vintage watch (for a few collectors, 1996 probably won't even be old enough to be considered "real vintage"), I think it makes less of a difference, but just generally speaking: on a used, older Rolex, patina and marks of use are actually a very desired thing.

On the other hand, I could imagine that with a vintage Daytona of those references that go close to 7 figures, a watch in actual perfect 100% NOS state would probably go through the roof like crazy in its value. But now we're talking about very different territory as opposed to 20 to 40 year old Date Justs. 😜
 
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