Replacing the Second Wheel with H4 - Easy tips?

[d4m.test]

AHHHHHH!

I decided to keep the watch and swap the movements myself. Unfortunately the datewheel is for a 2824, and I only had a spare 2836 which would have made the datewheel look overly sunken. I decided to splurge and purchase a brand new ETA 2824 from a reputable watch supplier.

I ordered it with an H4 height hour/minute/second wheels. It came with the wheels packaged separately in ETA blister packs. The hour and minute wheels are no big deal, but the second wheel looks like it'll be a nightmare to install! Checking out the documentation here on the 2824, it looks like I'm practically going to have to do a service myself just to get the second wheel in there. Ouch. That's gonna be a bit scary on a brand new ETA movement.

Maybe I should have just sent it back. lol. Unfortunately I brought it to Canada Post and they told me it would be $75 to ship with tracking, and $45 without tracking. Yuck. This is gonna be an adventure. Or perhaps I can just use the 2836 with a sunken datewheel and flip the 2824 here.

Any thoughts? Or perhaps an easy tutorial for replacing the second wheel?

So I bought a watch with a dead "reclaimed swiss 2824" movement that ended up being an old Seagull. I ordered the 2824 with H4 wheels and they didn't come preinstalled, nor are they available preinstalled if I wanted to do an exchange.

Any easy tips or tutorials for doing this? The technical documents make it look really difficult. I hate taking off plates and then trying to realign pinions on gears to the jewels to put the plates back on. I broke a 6497 gear doing that, and that's supposed to be the easy movement to work on. lol

 

[Raddave]

Hey Raj , i do got one tip if you plan to tackle this yourself.

It does not make it EASY to replace the plate, but it does make it easier, at least for me.
When in reassembing a movement, i dont ever leave it flat.
I alway prop up the movement (in the holder) on one side with 2 nickels.

Heres why i think it works.....
with the movement flat, the pinions and wheels can either stand straight up or tip to one side ( any old direction).
With the movement holder tipped to one side they will all lean to same direction, and i slide the plate from down to up and catch the pinions, if you can understand what I mean. And i always tap the plate all the way down with the tweezers before i start any screws. I have yet to damage anything. Its still a PITA, but it seems to make it easier for me....

Of course, it could be a placebo effect. I think it will make it easier, so it seems easier, but ill continue to do it.

 

[d4m.test]

That's an awesome tip. Thanks! I'm excited to try it this weekend, and no longer (as) scared.

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk 2

 

[rb0087]

This is perhaps the trickiest part of reassembling a 2824, but have patience, and you can get it done. I'll give you the tip that has saved me an enormous amount of time and frustration. When you get the wheels in position, and place the bridge down on top, take a piece of pegwood, and press down on the bridge as you get each one of the top pinions aligned. Don't press so hard that you break something, but keep firm pressure down at all times, until you've confirmed that the wheel train is free to rotate, and you have screws tightened down. Doing so makes a world of difference. And for a video of the whole process being masterfully done, check out this video of a 2824 being serviced, from the guy who taught me the pegwood trick: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtgAJBPPefM .

Another point: do not even think about tightening down the screws until you are 100% sure that everything is properly aligned and free to rotate. Doing so is how you break an escape wheel pivot (ask me how I know).

 

[SSTEEL]

Great video of Mark's that, great guy too The peg wood tip is what I use too

 

[ado213]

I know every ones not got one, but the best thing to use to align pinions on the train bridge is a dam good scope, saves all the messing !!

 

[d4m.test]

That's a fantastic video. Thanks so much!

Looks like I can remove the automatic assembly but leave it intact, release tension on main spring, remove ratchet wheel, leave the crown wheel and balance spring alone, then remove the train bridge to get access to the second wheel. That video makes it look a little too easy. Lol

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk 2

 

[rb0087]

The approach that you outlined could probably work, but I would recommend also removing the balance, pallet bridge and pallets. It might seem like more work, and putting the balance back in place can be a little tricky the first time, but there's no way to check the freedom of the train wheels without removing the pallets, because the pallets lock the escape wheel from turning. The train wheels would be much more accessible with the balance wheel out of the way, too. So I would say in the long run, it would be easier with the balance and pallets out of the way. Then again, you could give it a shot with the balance in place, and only remove it when you need to.

Oh, and Mark in those videos makes everything look a little too easy; it can drive you nuts as a beginner when you've spent an hour trying to do something that took him 10 seconds.

 

[ado213]

Good advice off rb0087 on removing the balance and pallet, there are all sorts of minor disasters which may happen with the balance in situ. It's much safer, and in the long run cheaper ( replacement is costly) should anything go wrong. Don't forget you'll be manipulating this movement and it's components frequently to achieve your goal, every manipulation is a possible threat to the very delicate hairspring.

 

[Raddave]

WOW, lots of chimer-in-ers !
Lots of great tips too !

Well here you go Raj, youve got enough information to become dangerous, (Dangerous_Raji).

Keep us posted and let us know how it goes .
Were rootin for ya buddy !!!!


GOOD LUCK !!

 

[d4m.test]

No doubt! Thanks for all the advice! On the plus side, I have a dead seagull to practice with. With my luck, it will start working when I put it together. Lol

I'll keep you all posted!

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk 2

 

[d4m.test]

So it didn't go as planned, but I do have a working watch now!

I decided to watch the video a few times, and have it in front of me on a laptop to refer to step by step. I also decided to practice with the dead seagull movement first. When I put it back together, it worked perfectly! Been wearing it for a full day and it had gained only 2 or 3 seconds! It seems there was something about the pallet fork killing the movement. Or maybe something unrelated that I didn't notice.

I'll test it for a few more days, then will probably return the brand new ETA movement and save about $180. Thanks so much for all the help guys!

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Raddave]

Congrats Raj !!!!!

Kinda cool when that stuff just seems to work out huh?

What watch was it ?

Post a pic of the lil rascal !


Once again CONGRATS BRO !

 

[rb0087]

Sweet! Great to hear; glad you got it fixed. Watch repair can be frustrating but it's very satisfying when it all works out.