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remove crown on PO gen 4?

landwomble

Horology Curious
8/9/09
19
0
0
Can anyone post a noob-proof guide to removing crown and stem on an Asian movement PO rep? I've never done it before and want to apply silicone grease to waterproof it...
 

KBH

Mythical Poster
1/11/07
7,168
41
48
Don't take the crown and stem all the way out. The first time you try that you'll have about a 30% chance of getting back in without screwing up something.

Just unscrew it and pull it out to the time setting position and use a toothpick , pin or something like that to push a little silicone grease up inside. When you screw it back down it will spread the grease just fine.
 

landwomble

Horology Curious
8/9/09
19
0
0
KBH said:
Don't take the crown and stem all the way out. The first time you try that you'll have about a 30% chance of getting back in without screwing up something.

Just unscrew it and pull it out to the time setting position and use a toothpick , pin or something like that to push a little silicone grease up inside. When you screw it back down it will spread the grease just fine.

really? It's that risky? Bugger, i was hoping to be able to slide the movemet out and seal the HE valve whilst I was at it.
 

KBH

Mythical Poster
1/11/07
7,168
41
48
The HE valve on a PO is very similar to a crown. It's fully o-ring'ed. I'd just grease it also.

I've had a UPO, a Narikaa Po and a Sead PO and they've all been fine for swimming and use at the beach.

Also, I've heard people suggest using a hot glue gun on the inside of the HE valve. I can't believe that would work to any depth at all if the HE valve was not properly closed. Water pressure you blow that out of the hole at less than 40 feet. If you were to go to all that trouble, at least use a good 2 part epoxy. Marine-tex or JB Weld.
 

landwomble

Horology Curious
8/9/09
19
0
0
KBH said:
The HE valve on a PO is very similar to a crown. It's fully o-ring'ed. I'd just grease it also.

I've had a UPO, a Narikaa Po and a Sead PO and they've all been fine for swimming and use at the beach.

Also, I've heard people suggest using a hot glue gun on the inside of the HE valve. I can't believe that would work to any depth at all if the HE valve was not properly closed. Water pressure you blow that out of the hole at less than 40 feet. If you were to go to all that trouble, at least use a good 2 part epoxy. Marine-tex or JB Weld.

Thanks. I was kind of thinking the same after having a good look at it. I've greased it up on both crown and HE valve and worked the threads a bit: hopefully that'll do the job. When the caseback removing tool I ordered arrives I'll pull that and grease the caseback, too, for good measure.

With regards to the marine epoxy I was also thinking of using something like miliput - the two-part epoxy mix that's used for repairing metal - as I happen to have some in my toolbox. Should be perfect, and as it's the consistency of modelling clay it's easy to work, too. I've seen that seal water pipes very nicely. However, if there's a big risk of me breaking the watch by removing the crown (points up!) then I'm a bit wary!
 

KBH

Mythical Poster
1/11/07
7,168
41
48
Unless you're planning on Scuba diving, I'd just grease the seals and case back and be done with it. If you end up taking it apart invariably you'll either screw up the keyless works or you'll get it all back together and find a spot of lint or dust on the dial or crystal.

If you are planning on Scuba diving, I'd get it professionally tested or at least go in with the possibility in your mind that it may fail. My guess is that it won't but it's always a possibility.