Quick and Dirty Case set profiles, FYI: New H-Fac, New KW, Old KW

[DR3M3L]

I'm in the middle of modding some watches and it's case polishing time. As an afterthought, I thought you guys might like to see some profile comparison pictures to compare the lugs or whatever else. Unfortunately, these cases do not have CGs on them because they, too, are in the mod process (plus these cases are about to get polished). But I did include some CG comparison photos below. But, take those with a grain of salt. The KW CGs have been modded, but the H-Fac is stock still. The only mods were
1) flushing, flattening (only needed on one), and polishing CG pin (also for one of the cg pins I softened the edge a bit as well); 2) chamfering and polishing the edge; 3) rebrushing (they may get rebrushed again; to the naked eye the brush strokes look even, but under the macro shot, you can tell that the stock H-fac brush stroke is straighter; so, may brush again --> note that every new kw cg I've gotten in the past month has not had a flush cg pin, and only one of the H-fac's I got did from the factory; this stock H-fac does not have a flush cg as you can see and no real chamfer/polished edge to speak of.). All my mods are for my own use, learning, enjoyment, etc.; and all are done on my own watches.

All pictures were taken in my workroom, so you'll have to excuse the ugly plywood photo setting.

Anyway, this is just in case you want to see it:

For Cases: H-Fac Always on Left; New KW always in middle; Old KW always on Right

For CG's: the cg's are labeled or the H-Fac is always on the left if not labeled.

 

[mysterio]

I'm in the middle of modding some watches and it's case polishing time. As an afterthought, I thought you guys might like to see some profile comparison pictures to compare the lugs or whatever else. Unfortunately, these cases do not have CGs on them because they, too, are in the mod process (plus these cases are about to get polished). But I did include some CG comparison photos below. But, take those with a grain of salt. The KW CGs have been modded, but the H-Fac is stock still. The only mods were
1) flushing, flattening (only needed on one), and polishing CG pin (also for one of the cg pins I softened the edge a bit as well); 2) chamfering and polishing the edge; 3) rebrushing (they may get rebrushed again; to the naked eye the brush strokes look even, but under the macro shot, you can tell that the stock H-fac brush stroke is straighter; so, may brush again --> note that every new kw cg I've gotten in the past month has not had a flush cg pin, and only one of the H-fac's I got did from the factory; this stock H-fac does not have a flush cg as you can see and no real chamfer/polished edge to speak of.). All my mods are for my own use, learning, enjoyment, etc.; and all are done on my own watches.

All pictures were taken in my workroom, so you'll have to excuse the ugly plywood photo setting.

Anyway, this is just in case you want to see it:

For Cases: H-Fac Always on Left; New KW always in middle; Old KW always on Left

I would take it you meant right. Thanks for sharing.

 

[pacecar2121]

I would take it you meant right. Thanks for sharing.

Yes. That is correct. Editing it now. Thanks for the catch.

 

[kampachi]

Thanks for the share mate. Looks like KWs are still stucked with the old short lever while the H-factory has the incorrect pin position (too left in most cases). Perhaps you can swap the lever onto the kw crownguard and see if it fits?

 

[pacecar2121]

Thanks for the share mate. Looks like KWs are still stucked with the old short lever while the H-factory has the incorrect pin position (too left in most cases). Perhaps you can swap the lever onto the kw crownguard and see if it fits?

Yea, I'd say that's right.

For switching lever:
I did that with one, but the lever snap was over-tight; that is, it was so tight that it put too much pressure and wear on contacting parts (and possibly cg screws) for daily use, imo. Kind of weird since I would've predicted it'd be more loose since the kw's pin is more right than the H-fac (i.e., H-fac pin is more left), as you note above.

But, I'll bet it's just a matter of trying several combinations, to find the right one (or just getting lucky). I've noticed that these all seem to have degrees of variation in manufacturing results, even within the same maker, model, and version. Could be that it was just the parts that I had that didn't fit...maybe they usually do.

Or could try fitting whatever already have, but might be difficult with the roller ball set up on the lever and difficult with the pin positions as well.

Maybe could adjust the tube to a slightly different position to accommodate.

I've decided just to leave it. At a distance of 18-24inches or more, with naked eye, not a much of a difference with most kw levers that I have.
--see the very last picture with H-Fac on left and KW on right.

 

[Bozz]

Well done mate, thanks for share.