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Panerai 299K Review and Pictorial

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
I love fine mechanical watches and I discovered reps a bit over year ago. Before that, all I knew of them were that they were these cheap "POS" knockoffs that screamed "fake" Well, what a surprise! My roommate showed me some reps he got while in NY and I just could not believe how good they were. I know mid-range gen watches. Or at least I thought I did. I've owned quite a few from Ball to Omega to Tag Heuer, etc. I could not tell a gen from a rep on that day. I was hooked.

After reading all the rep forums and pouring over the websites, and taking some not so good (but well intentioned) advice from the experienced members (I'll get to that shortly), I ended up with about 8-9 reps over the course of about 6-8 months time. You can search my posts here at RWI under my user name for them if interested. I eventually sold all of them in the end and promised myself never to get back into the rep game again.

Why sell them all? I purchased mid-range reps (in the $180 to $280 range) and all of them without fail had something not quite right with them cosmetically. This drove me nuts. I'm too picky and perfectionistic to ignore the little things that I ended up eventually seeing. Nothing really glaring or screaming rep/fake, but just enough to let "me" know that it was not quite 99% (one can never get to 100%-even I know that). Now most people will not even notice these little tells. I eventually did, on all of them.

So, for those experienced members who advise "noobs" (no, not the maker) to just get any mid-range rep and "you'll be happy" with it, I beg to differ. My standards are way too high to accept the flaws I found. But, for some members, this might not matter at all. It does matter to me. Anyways, I know the advice was well intentioned. But for those whose "eye" is quite a bit above average, I would not advise this course.

Thus, after a few months hiatus from the rep scene, I have decided to try them again as I cannot afford gens these days. In this instance, I decided to go after the "first-class/super rep/ultimate rep". I should have gone this route from the beginning.

As you can see, I decided on the Panerai 299K version rep as my initial first class/super rep. I am not disappointed. It's a world of difference from the ones I owned before if you have an eye for the details (and I do, but not really as anal as some of the other members who are even more picky than I am-maybe one day! LOL).

I opted for the "K" version because for such a large face watch, the thicker makers and numerals are more becoming and more in keeping with the scale of the watch overall. I found the "N" to be a bit too thin in the markings for my taste.

My Impressions/Review (no particular order):

-Dial is typical classic Pam. This is "the" face of Pam; instantly recognizable and the traditional one to have. I see nothing wrong with it (unless someone wants to do one of those side-by-side comparisons with all the grid lines and the such (now that's even too anal for this anal guy! LOL). Even the curves on the "2" look correct. Although, I have yet to be able to perfectly align each marker to the minute hand as it passes that marker at the minute mark. Perhaps this is an alignment issue with the markings themselves as they are not as perfect at they seem.

-Lume is fantastic. Just like a gen (as far as I can compare to gen lume on other gens I own/owned). Even better than my Hamilton.

-Fit and finish are flawless as is the polish.

-Magnifier just like the gen in terms of mag (as far as I can tell) and amount of pinchuision distortion it generates looks the same to me (compared to the one on the Panerai website). Well centered as well. Although the distortion itself is a bit annoying as it makes the date numeral difficult to see.

-Date font looks good and is even centered (ignoring the distortion as already mentioned above).

-Sapphire crystal is well mounted and is even all the way around; not tilted lower/higher at one side like on some of my other (former) reps and my Hamilton gen.

-Hands might be a tad short, but not in any way that I can tell as I don't have a gen to compare them with be be sure. Plus, they are unscratched with the "micro-scratches" so common amongst most reps. This is most easily seen under bright sunlight and is unmistakable/impossible to ignore once noticed. But there are a few markings on that part of the hand that was pushed into the cannon pin by the hand tool.

-Polished cannon pin just like gen. Nicely done. Makes a world of difference and the most obvious tell if missing.

-Colorless AR seems not too bad. Certainly better than no AR. My Hamilton gen has no AR and that's a world of difference right there. But the reflections that are visible are still annoying, just not as much.

-Properly square and non-chamfered CG with snappy properly shaped lever (also nice and square). Perhaps a bit too tight, though.

-The crown itself is also properly repped with thin webbing and not the too thick webbing on its circumference.

-The caseback can be a bit more deeply engraved and the font could be more accurate (it's almost unnoticeable), but that's something I don't have to look at all the time. I'm not familiar enough with all the numbers there (at least the specific model/edition/part [OP/BP] numbers so I'm going to assume they're correct).

-Finally, the bracelet is very good. Very comfortable and the best rep bracelet I've worn. Locktite the screws. I did not even have to diamond-file chamfer a few sharp edges as it's all good to go from the start. Well, almost. I did come across a very sharp edge on the clasp mechanism itself that I will diamond-file one day. Speaking of the clasp mechanism. I have noticed a bit of play where the two ends meet and there is a some tilt and mis-alignment that I don't know is present on the ten or not. I hate oiling these things as it make a mess of the wrist for quite a while. This one's very smooth and non-squeaky already.

-One of the spring-loaded bracelet release plungers was stuck in very slightly lower position. I'd already noticed it in the QC pix and figured it should be an easy fix. A bit of bracelet wiggle and gentle release pin tapping with a soft-face jewelers hammer and/or drift-pin should solved that I figured. But it turned out to be unnecessary as it was properly spring already. It just sits lower than it should. I noticed this seems to be a common issue with Noob Pams. My other Noob Pam had similar issues with this tiny mechanism, too.

-A few "issues" on the first day: the date did not roll-over all the way last night, it got stuck mid-way between two dates; the minute hand seemed to jump when snapping in the lever (it's too tight as I already mentioned above); and I cannot seem to perfectly align the minute hand to all markers (also mentioned above); the watch is also a lot heavier than I thought it would be (not really an issue, just an impression).

So there you have it. That is my impression/review of the Pam 299K. I think this one is a keeper. I should have started with first class reps when I initially got into the rep game. I know nothing is perfect and there are a few very tiny flaws with it, but not enough to worry about. After all this is a rep and a very good one at that.

Also, beware of good intentioned advice if you are not an "average" person when it comes to seeing/accepting fine details that are not quite what they should be.

One more thing. Not all advice can lead one astray though. Most experienced members do recommend Asian clone movements over questionable "vintage" ETA movements. I have to agree with this one. Of all the reps I've owned so far, all of the them have been clone Asian movements. I did not encounter a single problem with any of them yet. Most kept time within +10-15 seconds (except the SA3135 +20 seconds) per day and one A7750 was bang-on every day. Can't really ask for more than that.

Please be advised that it is not my intent to offend or otherwise insult anyone. These are just my experiences and their impact upon me. Your mileage may vary.

Cheers and enjoy the pix! :D

w

Note:

TD review can be found HERE.

UPDATE:

I discovered that the rep has a loose minute hand. I saw it the first time I set the time as the hand jumped when I snapped back the lever on the CG. I didn't realize until a few days afterwards that it was because the hand itself is loose. I incorrectly attributed it to the lever being too tight.

Also, as noted in my review above, I wondered why the markers were a bit off at times and, again, incorrectly attributed it to poor placement of the markers themselves. The markers are bang-on. If I set the watch up and let it run undisturbed, the minute hand and markers align perfectly.

I'm in the process of returning it to PureTime for a warranty repair. That will take forever!

FINAL UPDATE:

After almost two months, the rep finally arrived back to me once again. The TD did not fix it. I don't think they understood what I was trying to say about what is wrong with the minute hand. It's for sale for anyone who wants to try and fix it, or for anyone with the knowledge to fix it. What a disappointing turn of events.















 
D

d4m.test

Guest
Great watch. I couldn't find any flaws myself. IMO it's better than the 111, but I'm sure experts on this forum would differ.
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
Great watch. I couldn't find any flaws myself. IMO it's better than the 111, but I'm sure experts on this forum would differ.

Yes, it is. I'm enjoying it thus far. I'm not familiar enough with gen Pams, or gen anything, to be able to pick out all the flaws. :facepalm:
 

oreo931

Getting To Know The Place
7/9/12
63
2
8
USA
I can identify with everything you posted in terms of wanting near-perfection in rep watches. I struggled with the same things and ended up selling a couple of reps I was unhappy with. However, my dissatisfaction ended when I received my 299k. I LOVE it. Your review is spot on.

The only other rep that I feel is on par with the 299k is the 111N v3. I have one of those as well, but prefer the 299k over it.
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
I can identify with everything you posted in terms of wanting near-perfection in rep watches. I struggled with the same things and ended up selling a couple of reps I was unhappy with. However, my dissatisfaction ended when I received my 299k. I LOVE it. Your review is spot on.

The only other rep that I feel is on par with the 299k is the 111N v3. I have one of those as well, but prefer the 299k over it.

Thank you.

I guess the delight and subsequent let down might have been the case with other members as well when I comes to reps. I'm happy with my 299K even with it's flaws.

I'm not sure which rep to get next. I want it to be at least as good as the present one. Perhaps a Pam029, AP Diver v3.5 or Breitling SO Abyss 44mm. Dunno!
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
UPDATE:

I discovered that the rep has a loose minute hand. I saw it the first time I set the time as the hand jumped when I snapped back the lever on the CG. I didn't realize until a few days afterwards that it was because the hand itself is loose. I incorrectly attributed it to the lever being too tight.

Also, as noted in my review above, I wondered why the markers were a bit off at times and, again, incorrectly attributed it to poor placement of the markers themselves. The markers are bang-on. If I set the watch up and let it run undisturbed, the minute hand and markers align perfectly.

I'm in the process of returning it to PureTime for a warranty repair. That will take forever!
 

ALE7575

Section Mod
Section Moderator
Certified
18/1/11
19,846
423
83
Thanks for this good review walden
Well done. Nice pics
I have already included it in PAM GUIDE

Congrats for your watch
ALE
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
Thanks for this good review walden
Well done. Nice pics
I have already included it in PAM GUIDE

Congrats for your watch
ALE

Thank you very much. I just wish it didn't need repairs so soon! LOL :facepalm:
 

GWT#1

Renowned Member
1/4/12
704
53
28
Where the bluegrass sways!
walden it isn't terribly difficult to repress minute hand and save loads of hassle! I would get on E@ay and get hand press and good driver set and that is about all you need also some good dial guards. pull cg off, remove crown, take case back off, pull movement, press hand ......reverse order about 30 minutes you are done just take your time it really isn't that difficult...just be careful and get little trays to keep up with small screws!!!
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
walden it isn't terribly difficult to repress minute hand and save loads of hassle! I would get on E@ay and get hand press and good driver set and that is about all you need also some good dial guards. pull cg off, remove crown, take case back off, pull movement, press hand ......reverse order about 30 minutes you are done just take your time it really isn't that difficult...just be careful and get little trays to keep up with small screws!!!

A poor choice of words on my part in my update; the minute hand is not loose on the cannon pin, it's the cannon pin holding the minute hand itself that is loose once the watch mechanism is re-engaged (ie., crown pushed back in). According to what I have read in the 7750 section, this is not an easy fix-it-oneself type of fix. And I do not know enough about movements to attempt such a fix myself.

I also used to have all these tools you mentioned before; hand puller, hand press tools, caseback opener, dip oilers, movement vice, etc. Having worked in cleanroom/super cleanroom environments for over 20+ years (I don't work there anymore), I would be unable to do this work at home myself and end up with as pristine an internal watch face as it comes from the factory. My inability to remove all the dust inside of the space between the dial and the crystal would drive me nuts. That's, unfortunately, my anal-like nature when it comes to doing things to perfection! :facepalm:

The only way I would be happy with the work is to either have it done by a professional here (which would be waaaaay to expensive in this country) or to send it back to the TD for the repair.
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
FINAL UPDATE:

After almost two months, the rep finally arrived back to me once again. The TD did not fix it. I don't think they understood what I was trying to say about what is wrong with the minute hand. It's for sale for anyone who wants to try and fix it, or for anyone with the knowledge to fix it. What a disappointing turn of events.
 

IWC Doppelchronograph

Active Member
29/4/13
408
3
0
PS My genuine IWC Doppelchronograph had a long series of problems not very well dealt with by IWC and was often away for months.....
 

walden

Active Member
13/5/12
223
0
0
A healthy mix of good gens and super reps is the way to go....

I think you're right about that. Let's see what to get next! LOL

Perhaps a development of skills for small tweaks and servicing might also prove invaluable with reps.

This is very true. I know nothing about watchmaking and the skills required for it. But it's never too late to learn something new.

PS My genuine IWC Doppelchronograph had a long series of problems not very well dealt with by IWC and was often away for months.....

This sucks. My gen Hamilton is in the same boat! It's been away longer than this rep I just got back! LOL