• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

PAM lug bar won't come out! Help?

swissaddict

Renowned Member
6/3/08
968
3
0
The good news is I got a new (used) rep last week...

PAM50_wrist2.jpg


The bad news is that one of the lug bars is messed up. I don't even know if it is a lug bar! It has no driving slot to remove the bar with a screwdriver, and it's almost flush with the case, so I can't grip it to twist or pull with pliers.
PAM50_lugbar1.jpg


I do know that it's about 2 or 3 mm shorter than a lug bar should be, because it doesn't even come close to reaching out the other end. I think it does reach some of the threaded part of the lug, though... and if that's true, then it's at least partially screwed in (if the "bar" is threaded at all!)
PAM50_lugbar2.jpg


Can anyone think of a way to get it out? The previous owner had no clue either. As it is, I can't remove the bracelet to swap for a strap or do any other mods... :?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thank you
 

horologie_unitas

Put Some Respect On My Name
3/12/06
5,148
3
0
centerpunch it from both sides. get a small drill bit, and drill it out from both sides. thats your only chance.
 

swissaddict

Renowned Member
6/3/08
968
3
0
Thanks H_U and fakey. Just when I thought I got a decent deal on an old factory PAM 50... and I gotta roll up my sleeves and do some heavy duty surgery! Guess I will take a trip to Home Depot this weekend for the necessary tools. I hope I don't ruin the lugs... I'm not exactly a handyman. Wish me luck... :|
 

gmnorris

You're Saying I Can Sell?
31/10/07
59
0
0
horologie_unitas said:
centerpunch it from both sides. get a small drill bit, and drill it out from both sides. thats your only chance.

Along the same lines, when you're at home depot you can look for a really small screw/bolt extractor.

It basically works like a reverse-threaded tap... so you'll still have to centerpunch and drill like H_U said. Then thread the extractor in, and it should grab hold of the messed up screw and remove it.

This saves you from drilling the thing entirely out, so it will help minimize the damage to the lug-threads that drilling through may cause.

I hope I'm making a minimal amount of sense, and not just confusing the situation more... :roll: :D
 

brtelec

Put Some Respect On My Name
Advisor
16/8/06
4,599
6
0
Phoenix
This would be a lot easier if you have access to a drill press or a mill.
 

fakemaster

Mythical Poster
31/5/07
9,185
63
0
This would be a lot easier if you have access to a drill press or a mill.

And the guy who sold it so you could use the drill press or hammer on him.
 

gmnorris

You're Saying I Can Sell?
31/10/07
59
0
0
one more idea if you're unable to find an extractor small enough...

drill a small pilot hole in the center, and use a quality (hardened) phillip's head screwdriver like a punch, try to get a cross-shaped indentation that you can use to turn it out... eh?? eeehhhhh?? [smilie=dontknow.gif]
 

swissaddict

Renowned Member
6/3/08
968
3
0
Thanks to everyone who has responded.. all the ideas have been great. I appreciate the minds coming together to help with my little problem. Seriously, what a great forum :D

I went on my shopping trip today. Wasn't able to find an extractor small enough, unfortunately... but I did find a center punch and a drill bit that *might* be small enough. I just have to be very careful to drill perfectly down the center of the bar.

Before I try that, though, I also bought some J-B Weld, which is supposed to be an extremely strong metal adhesive epoxy. I also got a screw approximately the same diameter of the bar, sawed it to get a flat tip, and I'm going to "weld" that flat tip to the bar. 15 hours to set and cure completely, and then I'll pray while twisting & pulling... could work? If not, I've got the center punch, drill, and drill bit ready.

I also want to add that the guy who sold the watch to me mentioned the lug bar driving slot was almost gone, so I think he was trying to be honest and disclose the issue before selling it. It just wasn't communicated that the 'lug bar' jammed/glued in there was not even really a proper lug bar, the 'driving slot' was essentially a surface scratch, and he may not have realized how difficult it would be to remove it. His English isn't 100% perfect, either, so that may have been a factor in the lack of communication. So no bad feelings against him... Just an unexpected challenge for me :wink:
 

cybee

Legendary Member
Supporter
23/11/06
11,134
29
48
swissaddict said:
Before I try that, though, I also bought some J-B Weld, which is supposed to be an extremely strong metal adhesive epoxy. :

I can say this about JB Weld. My son's VW got a hole in the bottom of the gearbox, so they told us he needed a new gearbox, around $3,000. :shock: So he went down and bought some JB Weld and patched up the hole in the gearbox. That was 3 weeks ago, the car is running fine with no leaks, that stuff is amazing.

Good luck with the repair SA.


Incidentally anyone want buy a used VW GTI??? :eek:
 

horologie_unitas

Put Some Respect On My Name
3/12/06
5,148
3
0
glueing anything on will never bond enough to hold the forces you need to unscrew the bar....

i had similar problems with my B & R ....tried all the same things..... ruined 3 extractors ! they dont grip cause the pins are hard.

best thing is to drill the thin ends of the pin ( bar off ) and slide out the bracelet.
 

swissaddict

Renowned Member
6/3/08
968
3
0
Progress report: no progress :(

I tried JB Weld THREE times with no success. As H_U said, it would not bond enough... it was very disappointing and frustrating.

Then I went to a tiny extractor... did no good. It just would not get a hold of the bar.

I know what I need to do now.. as many have suggested, I have to drill. But I'm hesitant because I've never done such precise drilling on such a small area. So I've been putting it off. I would hate to ruin the watch case! :?