Noob Fifty Fathoms Bezel Construction

[Alex_P1]

Has anyone taken the Noob Fifty a Fathoms bezel apart?

The top edge of my insert has a little bit of vertical movement in it and isn't perfectly aligned, so I'd like to strip it down, line it up better and re-glue it in.

What I'd like to know is if anyone knows how it works? Is it similar to a BP GMT bezel, as that's the only clicking bezel I've taken apart...

Thanks in advance,

Alex

 

[Alex_P1]

Took the plunge myself this afternoon and flipped the bezel off with a case knife.

The bezel is really nicely made, the inset is bonded into a solid ring which is then an interference fit on a standard looking clicking bezel assembly. This means it is infinitely adjustable, you just click the ring, line the insert ring up with the diamond at 12 and press it onto the clicking ring. I did it twice as it was easy and not perfect first time, it is now smack on.

Watch looks perfect now, seals are greased and the lug bars are done up safely with Loctite, will be wearing this one for a while I'm sure as the brand new Swiss movement is at +/- 0 sec a day at the moment!

 

[mech500]

Nice work mate, thanks for sharing. Post pics bro otherwise "it didn't happen". Lol.

 

[Alex_P1]

I've never got a camera handy, or the presence of mind to use one when I'm doing watch work, as I'm always concentrating too much on not screwing it up!

Afterwards I always think I should have taken some pictures of the process to share. Next time I've got something in bits I'll try to remember to take some pics in one of my "it's going wrong and I don't want to make it worse" breaks.

 

[rhaykal]

Took the plunge myself this afternoon and flipped the bezel off with a case knife.

The bezel is really nicely made, the inset is bonded into a solid ring which is then an interference fit on a standard looking clicking bezel assembly. This means it is infinitely adjustable, you just click the ring, line the insert ring up with the diamond at 12 and press it onto the clicking ring. I did it twice as it was easy and not perfect first time, it is now smack on.

Watch looks perfect now, seals are greased and the lug bars are done up safely with Loctite, will be wearing this one for a while I'm sure as the brand new Swiss movement is at +/- 0 sec a day at the moment!

What kind of swiss movement did you get? And if you dont mind my asking, where is the best place to get one? My FF should be here early next week and after trying on the gen at the AD, I know I'll be wearing the hell outta this watch. Thinkin' bout switching out the movement to swiss as well now. Also, in terms of greasing the seals, did you just grease the rear gasket or did you do anything to the crown?

 

[Alex_P1]

Mine has an SW220 in it. This essentially a Swiss clone of the ETA 2836 with an extra jewel. I got it from the factory like this, however, it'd be an easy swap to do as (I'm pretty sure) the hands will fit both as will the movement holder. It'd be a straightforward activity and would take me less than an hour, so don't let a watchmaker overcharge you if you take it to one!

The only thing which might need modification is the whatever the "anti-magnetic" cover mounts to, although I think this was the movement holder, and not the movement itself, so it should all be good. I might take mine out next weekend and either ditch it or modify it anyway, as I fancy I can hear the rotor just kissing it as it spins...

I use a low temperature silicon grease on the seals. I do the caseback gasket and the one in the crown, both on this watch were in perfect shape but dry. They're easy to fish out, grease and replace, just tidy up and extra grease as you don't want it creeping into the movement.

 

[rhaykal]

Mine has an ST220 in it. This essentially a Swiss clone of the ETA 2836 with an extra jewel. I got it from the factory like this, however, it'd be an easy swap to do as (I'm pretty sure) the hands will fit both as will the movement holder. It'd be a straightforward activity and would take me less than an hour, so don't let a watchmaker overcharge you if you take it to one!

The only thing which might need modification is the whatever the "anti-magnetic" cover mounts to, although I think this was the movement holder, and not the movement itself, so it should all be good. I might take mine out next weekend and either ditch it or modify it anyway, as I fancy I can hear the rotor just kissing it as it spins...

I use a low temperature silicon grease on the seals. I do the caseback gasket and the one in the crown, both on this watch were in perfect shape but dry. They're easy to fish out, grease and replace, just tidy up and extra grease as you don't want it creeping into the movement.

Thanks. My FF should be here hopefully monday or tuesday. I already have the Wiha hex drivers on order for delivery on tuesday. Just need to get the silicone grease and I'll be good.

 

[Alex_P1]

I filed down a couple of hex keys to make the T3 Torx drivers as I was too impatient to wait for them to be delivered! Make sure you Loctite the bars together when you do them up so they never come undone by mistake.

 

[rhaykal]

I filed down a couple of hex keys to make the T3 Torx drivers as I was too impatient to wait for them to be delivered! Make sure you Loctite the bars together when you do them up so they never come undone by mistake.

Any suggestions on where to get loctite (store bought vs online). I know I can order the 222 on the bay or amazon but are there any physical stores that sell loctite that can be used in watches.

 

[TimeWillTell]

Mine has an ST220 in it. This essentially a Swiss clone of the ETA 2836 with an extra jewel. I got it from the factory like this, however, it'd be an easy swap to do as (I'm pretty sure) the hands will fit both as will the movement holder. It'd be a straightforward activity and would take me less than an hour, so don't let a watchmaker overcharge you if you take it to one!

The only thing which might need modification is the whatever the "anti-magnetic" cover mounts to, although I think this was the movement holder, and not the movement itself, so it should all be good. I might take mine out next weekend and either ditch it or modify it anyway, as I fancy I can hear the rotor just kissing it as it spins...

I use a low temperature silicon grease on the seals. I do the caseback gasket and the one in the crown, both on this watch were in perfect shape but dry. They're easy to fish out, grease and replace, just tidy up and extra grease as you don't want it creeping into the movement.

hay Alex, i hope you have luck doing the swap.. i was told the fiver don't just adopt any stock cloned etas. I asked this question to the maker when they were out of movts. I hope some techs can chim in here...tia

Thanks. My FF should be here hopefully monday or tuesday. I already have the Wiha hex drivers on order for delivery on tuesday. Just need to get the silicone grease and I'll be good.

rhaykal, i believed the crown stem has to b greased as well...think i read you just said the case back.

 

[rhaykal]

hay Alex, i hope you have luck doing the swap.. i was told the fiver don't just adopt any stock cloned etas. I asked this question to the maker when they were out of movts. I hope some techs can chim in here...tia

rhaykal, i believed the crown stem has to b greased as well...think i read you just said the case back.

Ya, I thought it was just the case back initially. Now to figure out how to grease the crown stem gasket.....hmmmmm.......

 

[Cheesemonger]

Any suggestions on where to get loctite (store bought vs online). I know I can order the 222 on the bay or amazon but are there any physical stores that sell loctite that can be used in watches.

If you have O'Reilly auto parts stores near you, they sell low strength Permatex locking compound. Same as loctite 222. That is what I used and it works well.

 

[ShiroTenshi]

hay Alex, i hope you have luck doing the swap.. i was told the fiver don't just adopt any stock cloned etas. I asked this question to the maker when they were out of movts. I hope some techs can chim in here...tia

Unless they use a modified movement, else I dont see why a stock clone ETA wont fit? Perhaps you can ask the maker that question.

p.s. any chance you getting some stock of the FF?

 

[Alex_P1]

Mine came with the SW220 in, not sure if the TD I got if from had a batch put together specially or if the movement drops straight in. Either way, I've checked and it is a totally standard, factory fresh SW220.

 

[Stealthy]

rhaykal, i believed the crown stem has to b greased as well...think i read you just said the case back.

So true

Do I need to disassembled the watch to be able to grease the crown?

I really have no experience in opening a watch before to be honest....

 

[rhaykal]

So true

Do I need to disassembled the watch to be able to grease the crown?

I really have no experience in opening a watch before to be honest....

+1

 

[peterpl]

Guys hows the bezel rotation on these? Is it loose and have play or nice and tight with good click???

 

[OPdestrolover]

Probably even a bit too tight for my liking.
Definitely good click.