Thanks for the info , I thought is was a little older , next one will be the 5513. Is the case good or does it need any modifications to be more gen like? I am going to find a date wheel to go over the eta wheel any suggestions on that ?The 16610 is a 30ish old watch.
So you don’t need to age it like you would a 5513
It’s not a true vintage. The gens in circulation are usually in very good condition
If you really want to, you can put the dial and hands in the oven to get a slight cream off white, and maybe give a very slight ghosting to the insert by bleaching it (just off black, but not grey)
But you just wear it and it will age with you
Thanks@trash3939 would be more pertinent than me on the 16610
Also I never worked on the 16610 raffles so I dont really know
Thanks will get on there website again tonightThe raffles dial is a maxi dial- ok for the 16610 LV 50th anniversary model. It looks like you got the dial that uses an eta movement without a DWO.
The case appears to have decent crown guards. The bezel insert could use a better pearl. The cyclops on the case also appears to be in the eta position.
Maybe Raffles has a DWO with bettter fonts with the numbers in the eta position- that would help. ETA fonts are a dead giveaway that your watch is a fake.
I have a 5513 build from raffles next on the table be a while before I tackle it , when I get straight on cash , going to get a case with serial numbers and reference numbers so I can put a gem movement in eventually , I love this forum wealth of info here . Can I get Yuki info please ?If you can take them apart and put them back together then you are going to have a lot of fun in this hobby. Next you could order something like a Milk 1680 case, get a decent dial from someone like Yuki for $100. Put an ETA into it etc. But the raffles stuff is definatly a good starting point though.