Movement selection, NH35 or 2824.

[HulkyGalore]

Hi!
I have played around with cheap 2813 type movements, replacing them, trying to regulate them, fixing them, (date, keyless works etc). They are OK and cheap. I have managed to damage them - but in a way that was good as it forced me to buy more then learn some basics by having a go at fixing them. I cant strip a whole movement down but am on the learning curve, so can do basic stuff.

I got a NH35 a while back and its a much better movement, no use in most date subs as the date is so far to the outside. I now want to put together an older style sub without the date on it. I have a case which could fit a NH35 or 2824 movement. Before I decide I welcome info from more experienced people on this. Since the date wheel won't be seen, does it really matter, or is there a reliability or robustness difference between them, or is one easier to fix and regulate than the other.

Thanks for any comments.

 

[NCRich]

Well, the obvious thing is the beat rate is different. Different feet and hands. I don't know that there is a big reliability difference either, though the NH35 is pretty bulletproof.

 

[HulkyGalore]

I want to make a 14060, so need to make sure the dial fits, thanks for pointing that out. For hands, I have some nice sub hands from a more modern version of that watch. I suppose availability of the 'right' hands for that watch could affect my choice too.

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

I have used both (NH38 and ETA 2824; ETA 2840). They are both long-lived workhorses that are readily available and can be serviced by any watchmaker.

The NHs are much cheaper, very robust for a fumble-fingered noob like me, and surprisingly accurate (my NH build need setting once a month). The downside is that they are held in place by a plastic ring, which gives a plastic sound when the rotor turns. Also, you are limited to a limited range of NH hands and dials (or need to use dial dots to fit the more accurate dials, which tend to be for ETA). They are also relatively low-beat, which is what I am looking for in vintage builds.

The ETAs are more expensive, and less forgiving (check threads for keyless works) for a fumble-fingered noob like me, and surprisingly accurate (my ETA builds need setting once a month). The upside is that they are held in place by a metal holder with case clamps, and you have the choice of an almost unlimited range of ETA hands (the accurate 1016 hands fit ETA but not AFAIK NH) and dials (which have dial feet for ETA movements). They are generally relatively high-beat, but also available as low-beat, which is what I am looking for in vintage builds.

So:

- if your choice of dial and hands is less demanding, you can save money and get a great NH movement. Also, I appreciate that my Seiko-dialed homage is powered by a Japanese movement, despite me only being able to fit broader, Sub hands:



- if your dial and hands requirements are more demanding, the ETA range is the way to go. Also, I appreciate that my Rolex-dialed rep is powered by a Swiss movement, and that I could find more accurate 1016-type hands:



Both are good, robust and dependable. Go Seiko for a cheap and cheerful build, or ETA if the details matter.

 

[HulkyGalore]

I have used both (NH38 and ETA 2824; ETA 2840). They are both long-lived workhorses that are readily available and can be serviced by any watchmaker.

The NHs are much cheaper, very robust for a fumble-fingered noob like me, and surprisingly accurate (my NH build need setting once a month). The downside is that they are held in place by a plastic ring, which gives a plastic sound when the rotor turns. Also, you are limited to a limited range of NH hands and dials (or need to use dial dots to fit the more accurate dials, which tend to be for ETA). They are also relatively low-beat, which is what I am looking for in vintage builds.

The ETAs are more expensive, and less forgiving (check threads for keyless works) for a fumble-fingered noob like me, and surprisingly accurate (my ETA builds need setting once a month). The upside is that they are held in place by a metal holder with case clamps, and you have the choice of an almost unlimited range of ETA hands (the accurate 1016 hands fit ETA but not AFAIK NH) and dials (which have dial feet for ETA movements). They are generally relatively high-beat, but also available as low-beat, which is what I am looking for in vintage builds.

So:

- if your choice of dial and hands is less demanding, you can save money and get a great NH movement. Also, I appreciate that my Seiko-dialed homage is powered by a Japanese movement, despite me only being able to fit broader, Sub hands:



- if your dial and hands requirements are more demanding, the ETA range is the way to go. Also, I appreciate that my Rolex-dialed rep is powered by a Swiss movement, and that I could find more accurate 1016-type hands:



Both are good, robust and dependable. Go Seiko for a cheap and cheerful build, or ETA if the details matter.

Thank you for a very detailed and informative reply - you have even (I think) identified the hands that I think I need. So for 14060/16610 and probably many others the hands are slimmer. This detail is important to me even though I like the hands from the maxi (bigger dot) dials. I am still trying to find the exact description and type of hands (for example are they flat or curved, despite being narrower?)

So I may consider the 2824 based on this, unless I can find the right hands for the NH35. I will in the meantime do some research on the hands. For a 14060 I am not finding much information in searches compared to other models but will keep looking.

Thanks again for the help here, really appreciate it. I will dig out the NH watch that it is currently in and put a picture of it just need to find it, first.

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

Thank you for a very detailed and informative reply - you have even (I think) identified the hands that I think I need. So for 14060/16610 and probably many others the hands are slimmer. This detail is important to me even though I like the hands from the maxi (bigger dot) dials. I am still trying to find the exact description and type of hands (for example are they flat or curved, despite being narrower?)

So I may consider the 2824 based on this, unless I can find the right hands for the NH35. I will in the meantime do some research on the hands. For a 14060 I am not finding much information in searches compared to other models but will keep looking.

Thanks again for the help here, really appreciate it. I will dig out the NH watch that it is currently in and put a picture of it just need to find it, first.

... be aware that if you look for 13mm hands, some vendors measure the whole hand, while others measure from the pinion. I ordered 13mm hands and they are shorter than I would have liked (but still correct for a 1016, as some gens have the shorter hands like mine, others the longer 13mm hands)

 

[HulkyGalore]

... be aware that if you look for 13mm hands, some vendors measure the whole hand, while others measure from the pinion. I ordered 13mm hands and they are shorter than I would have liked (but still correct for a 1016, as some gens have the shorter hands like mine, others the longer 13mm hands)

I have got these coming soon, not sure if they will be the right hands until they are in my hands!

 

[HulkyGalore]

I went for the 2824 in the end. What a movement, it even has micro adjustment of the rate, not that I needed it as it keeps excellent time right out of the box! A nice bearing on the rotor, it is much quieter than the 2813's I am used to.