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Mod log - Cartel 5512 including full RA case work

Bonesey

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15/1/11
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I've not done a mod log for a while so thought I would do one for a cartel 5512 that I have in. This is the piece for the winner of the WIKI contribution raffle AskMeAgain and will be my last modding piece for a while as I'm starting a new job soon and will have zero free time to mod watches.

Everyone knows the major flaws of the cartel case sets. Namely the stubby crown guards and tall crown. In this mod log I will perform all the normal modding of the parts, ageing etc, but will also tackle the modification of the case profile and the crown height. This was originally championed by RolexAddict who has done some awesome case work mods in the past and continues to work wonders with stock case sets to make them more gen like.

I will be using all rep parts, no gen or aftermarket parts in this mod log as I believe you can create something awesome just using stock parts and a bit of work.

For those of you who have not already done so I urge you to read through my How to age your Vintage Rolex - New and Improved! thread in the Tutorials section as I cover a lot of the same information there, and in more depth with tool descriptions etc. That thread is now approaching 15,000 views and many many people have contacted me since it was started. I'm proud to have written something that has helped and inspired a lot of folks to get started modding vintage watches on their own. And long may it continue!

This is just a simple job log as I work on this piece over a few days. Hopefully I'll have time to complete this in the next few days and I will keep updating the pics as I go.

So lets get started. As I've said this is a stock Cartel 5512 with a 4 line dial, domed crystal and a 21j movement. The first job is to break it down into its constituent parts for ageing and re-working. Nothing I'm doing is particularly new here, I just thought it would be good to show the full process again.

First job of course is to remove the bracelet. An easy first step using a springbar tool or even a toothpick to push the ends of the spring bars.

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Next we start breaking it down by removing the caseback, I used a sticky ball because it's easy and cheap, you can also use specific Rolex caseback tools but more often than not the teeth on the caseback are not well formed and you can damage them even using the correct tools.

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Use a decent sized screwdriver 1.6mm or so to remove the rotor screw.

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Always good to have some place to store all your parts while working on them. These trays are available from watch supply stores and are stackable which is always handy!

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Next you want to remove the stem and crown from the movement, undo the movement tabs and set the parts aside in your tray. You're going to remove the bezel assembly next so grab a caseback knife and possible a razor blade or craft knife.

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Use the caseback knife to pry off the bezel assembly. As you can see it's fairly simple to do and is pretty much gen spec. Retaining ring is still on the case, but to the left you have the bezel, the washer spring and the bezel insert.

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Use a screw remover to remove the tube. Remember to remove the gaskets in the tube before you do this! Keep them safe.

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Here you can see the retaining ring holding the crystal down on the case. Great to see there's no plastic gasket as it will make using the stock crystal much easier.

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Previous cartel case sets have had no engravings, wrong engravings, correct engravings. It's kind of pot luck what case you will get.

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Here I had to use a craft knife to get under the retaining ring before being able to pry it off with a case back knife. Crystal and ring came off as one unit.

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So there you have step one, breaking everything down and keeping things neat and tidy while you do :p

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Bonesey

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So next step is to gather all the parts for major modding in the outside workshop. Caseback, end links, mid-case and bracelet parts.

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On the way make some awesome coffee!

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Drill out the mid-case lug holes to 1.25mm

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Drill out the final mid link of the bracelet to 2.1mm

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Use a dremel with cutting disk to completely remove the springbar loops inside the end links. Even removing them completely the end links will still fit snug to the case as the tension of the new springbars are enough.

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Use a 240 grit sandpaper wheel to take the sharp edges off the caseback edge.

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Give it all a quick wash in soapy water to remove swarf and cutting fluid residue from them and let them dry on some paper towel.

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txrob779

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Brilliant...I always learn so much by your tutorials and suggestions. Graeme won a killer watch too. :woot:

Good luck with the new gig R. That coffee looks YUMMY too.
 

rols16610

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Wow very impressive Bonesey, looking forward to seeing this one when its done :cheers:
 

Bonesey

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I just realised how out of focus some of those shots are :facepalm:

Anyway, on with the general case re-shaping. I use a bench mounted vice with rubber jaw pads to avoid damaging the case. I also use both metal and diamond files to re-shape.

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Step one is to cut a starting notch where you want to remove material. The idea is to remove a circular portion of metal down to about the flat area on the caseback just as a reference point. So this is our starting profile on the crown guard area.

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Take out the little starting notch using an oval profile metal file.

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Once you've started just keep going with the oval metal file until you have reduced the profile all the way through the case. Best to have the case and clamp set up horizontal to the desk as it's easier to find your correct profile that way. Once done it should look like this.

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How long this all takes depends on your confidence, level of skill and what margin of error you are happy to work to! Once you've done one side, repeat on the other. You can see that the cartel case set has a much thicker crownguard on the right side than on the left, but we can re-profile this to look much more matched.

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Next step is to take a flat metal file (with both edges ground off as safety edges) and remove the material on the mid case sides to match the the depth you have cut.

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And now I need to take the dog for a walk so a bit of a break in proceedings :)
 

Bonesey

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So this will be the last update for today. I've been going for at least 5 hours or so I think.

So next step is to take down the height of the other side of the crownguards. Remember guys, this is all rough work and will be refinished when we get to the polishing and finishing stage. At the moment all we want is the rough shape.

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Now that the sides are done we want to start at the height of the crown inside the crownguards. There's no point profiling the outside if we can't match the inside. As you can see the different in crownguard width is still very pronounced. I started re-working the inside with several different files, triangle, square and flat all depending on what part I'm working on.

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I know it looks rough, but keep reading :p

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Looking a bit better, need the profile to be flat, level and in line with the bottom of the crownguards.

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Now that's done, as well as the inside profile I can work on the outer profile and blend to the circular shape we took out earlier.

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Once the left is done we can re-do the right hand side.

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So this is the results of a good few hours of re-shaping the sides of the case and the crownguards. I think even at this rough stage we can see it is vastly improved over the original stubby shape.

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Before we move on to smoothing the case up for polishing remember to go to the non crownguard side and use the files to remove any sharp edges on the lugs where we drilled out the lug holes. Just give them a rough smoothing for the time being.

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So back through to the outside workshop for some rough work with the 240 grit sand wheel. This is just to take off some of the rough edges, smooth the sides a bit, and give the case a bit of softening before we start the long slow process of re-working all the sides with various grits of sandpaper.

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More tomorrow hopefully folks.
 

DVNE

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7/11/12
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Wow... This takes plenty of patience, skill and a good eye. Great stuff Bonesey!
 

JAYJ48

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Nice work! Your photos look great to me!:thumbsup:
 

Bonesey

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So, next step in the modding of the mid-case. Basically now that we've reworked the shape we're working to get back to a mirror polish finish (or as close to it as we can). This takes a fair amount of time to get right. I think I spend at least 2-3 hours overall taking the case back to a polishable state.

1: rework with coarse grit 150/240 etc
2: rework with medium grit 500/600
3: rework with fine grit 1200
4: rework with super fine grit 2000
5: repolish on bench polisher

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So we still have slightly uneven crownguards, most of that will be hidden by the bezel assembly when it is installed. As long as they are close in width at the tip it will look fine. At any rate, whilst it may not be perfect it's a damn sight better than they were before.

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So now we return to the caseback, remember we took down the sharp edges around the outer edge with the fine grit sanding wheel on the dremel. Now we take the sandpaper to the back and refinish the entire back.

Again, start with a coarse grit and work your way back to superfine. If you want to give scratches and marks then do that before you re-finish it. It won't take them away entirely but leave what looks like weathered and old marking. Also remember that whilst we might polish it back to a very mirror like finish we have induced subtle ageing by removing all the sharp edges.

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So it will look pretty dull before repolishing but this is fine.

Having issues uploading so will update in a few hours hopefully.
 

PokerLover

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17/6/13
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Wow, this is insane. I'm really looking forward to the rest of the pictures and progress.
Thanks for making a log of this! :)
 

set2374

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Wow... Bonnessy, you have some really amazing skills (and tools). Reading this thread and looking at the pictures is like watching an episode of Wheeler Dealers where they recondition a beat up car in one episode and it looks so easy until you try this yourself. :) This is not an easy job at all and you can easily shave too much off the CG's if you're not careful and then you're really f--ked. Whoever wins this watch will be a lucky guy!!!

BTW, rep points added big time (not that you need them). Now, I am going to be checking every few hours to see how things are going! ;)
 

Ephry73

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Awesome! I may have to jump on one of these for the bezel! Keep sharing brother !

Btw , p/n for the base watch?