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Milguass 1019 - another kick at the can.

369mafia

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Many moons ago , very early in my watch building journey I decided that I liked shiny things and realized that I had to own a 1019 and the only way to do that without selling the farm was to build it myself.

Before the great (forum ) reset I had started a thread on my first watch project. At the time it was a toss up between a 6542 and the 1019 at that time , pieces fell into place for the gmt build and the 1019 fell to the back burner for a bit.

a year after I decided to tackle the challenge with the help of Tripdog.

I originally started with a 1655 cartel base that I then polished the machined and polished the bezel smooth and was going to use .
This case set ended up being used on the GMT , which I am sure a number of you have seen by now.



Fast forward, I got distracted and instead of buying another 1655 case I picked up a modified 6538 case set that had been machined to accept a smooth bezel and , so I went that route.

It was close in size 38.6mm
however I was never a fan of how the crystal and bezel fit and the gap between the dial chapter ring and the ring of the bezel the proportions were off and I hated it.



@tripdog was kind enough to assist with this build at the time as the only hands available were from Yuki to fit the 1570 gen cal. so they had to be broached which made them very delicate and eventually came lose and the metal deformed and the hands were garbage after a few failed attempts to reinstall them. No shade to tripdog He did the best he could with what he had to work with, but the metal was just too thin.

Also finding a beveled crystal to fit the modified sub case was a challenge as well and after a few attempts I used a modified Tudor jumbo crystal but it wasn't ideal or fit well.

mind_the_gap.jpg.45c624820f08088217b2321def910fd3.jpg



Since there was no reasonable hand set for an ETA in the Milgauss style I abandoned the project. and it ended up in the parts bin.

Years later @1016 lover and I were discussing a milgauss build and I shared my experiences with him and passed on my second YUKI dial and hands that I had bought to him for his project.

The major roadblock for me on this build was the hands..... Yuki and others in the past just used a variation of dj hands. not correct.

(pick from Yuki site way back when showing their dial - note the hand set. .


Just when I thought I had gotten over my obsession....I stumble across a nice set of hands that would be suitable for a 1019 on ebay so I picked up a few sets. Rare as hens teeth.

Well they arrived yesterday.

s-l1600.jpg


This , and I have been noticing ppl; posting pics of their 1019s on instagram lately...its like it happens in cycles. - this was the universe telling me it was time.

So last night I did a thing.


When the hands arrived, I dug out my old Yuki dial and Ofrie seconds hand and decided to do a quick and dirty to see if the spark returns..

well it did rekindle my love for it. 🔺

Specs:
Raffles Explorer case set.
5,3mm crown
drilled lugs to 1.3
no case work at all
Yuki Silver chapter ring dial
T22 beveled service crystal
1016 L T 22 bezel
Asian 2824
Ebay Hands
Ofrie red arrow seconds hand 🔺
Folded oyster bracelet.

I am more pleased with the results that I expected. I have tried this build with an explorer case in the past but it just didnt scratch the itch. however with the new hand set and the flat bezel, it really hits those design cues for me .

The sharp stock lugs on the case give the case some size to it.
The smooth very flat and wide bezel from 1016L really sells me on this build its really quite similar to gen. the flatness of the bezel makes it look wider than it is which is a noticeable design feature of the 1019

The hands , aged to match the dial lume look great in my opinion. not perfect, as the lume plots are bigger than gen, but its an acceptable compromise for having the correct shape and perfect lengths for this project. to match with the 29mm yuki dial

Using a raffles 5.3 crown also gives the visual appearance that the case set is larger than it is.
Id say its a solid 7/10 . giving the few mentioned issues earlier and that the case is 2mm smaller in diameter.

I think I want to add it back into my personal collection so I have 2 options here.

Keep the explorer case bezel crown combo and add some bevels to the lugs and some minor lug and side shaping to the mid case.
The gen has flatter case flanks.

or

As a Christmas gift to myself, I am about to pull the trigger on 1655 case set from Tiger concepts and go that route.
shave crown guards.
drill lug holes.
machine and polish the bezel
shave the cyclops off the crystal

I was considering the new raffles gmt case but the way the crown guards are in relation with the crown, I dont think it will look right once I grind off those crown guards. where as I know the 1655 case will work for me as I had done it previously.

Stay tuned for when those parts arrive and I go in hot on that mid case to make some milgauss magic.
In the meantime, Here is some eye candy for ya . not bad, but that extra 2mm will make all the difference.

Size apparently does matter. :ROFLMAO:

As always, questions and comments welcome, Thanks for looking.








The flat bezel makes it look wider than it is , which is a design cue of the 1019 - this flatter bezel combined with the flat service crystal really nails the proportions for me and makes the watch look larger than it is.

a tell is the proportion of the width of the bracelet in relation to the case . If someone was to analyze this they would notice that the case appears smaller than the gen spec of 38mm but the smaller crown, flat bezel and T22 crystal fool the eye to make it larger than it is.
 
Last edited:

1016 lover

Active Member
4/10/22
490
820
93
Many moons ago , very early in my watch building journey I decided that I liked shiny things and realized that I had to own a 1019 and the only way to do that without selling the farm was to build it myself.

Before the great (forum ) reset I had started a thread on my first watch project. At the time it was a toss up between a 6542 and the 1019 at that time , pieces fell into place for the gmt build and the 1019 fell to the back burner for a bit.

a year after I decided to tackle the challenge with the help of Tripdog.

I originally started with a 1655 cartel base that I then polished the machined and polished the bezel smooth and was going to use .
This case set ended up being used on the GMT , which I am sure a number of you have seen by now.



Fast forward, I got distracted and instead of buying another 1655 case I picked up a modified 6538 case set that had been machined to accept a smooth bezel and , so I went that route.

It was close in size 38.6mm
however I was never a fan of how the crystal and bezel fit and the gap between the dial chapter ring and the ring of the bezel the proportions were off and I hated it.



@tripdog was kind enough to assist with this build at the time as the only hands available were from Yuki to fit the 1570 gen cal. so they had to be broached which made them very delicate and eventually came lose and the metal deformed and the hands were garbage after a few failed attempts to reinstall them. No shade to tripdog He did the best he could with what he had to work with, but the metal was just too thin.

Also finding a beveled crystal to fit the modified sub case was a challenge as well and after a few attempts I used a modified Tudor jumbo crystal but it wasn't ideal or fit well.




Since there was no reasonable hand set for an ETA in the Milgauss style I abandoned the project. and it ended up in the parts bin.

Years later @1016 lover and I were discussing a milgauss build and I shared my experiences with him and passed on my second YUKI dial and hands that I had bought to him for his project.

The major roadblock for me on this build was the hands..... Yuki and others in the past just used a variation of dj hands. not correct.

(pick from Yuki site way back when showing their dial - note the hand set. .


Just when I thought I had gotten over my obsession....I stumble across a nice set of hands that would be suitable for a 1019 on ebay so I picked up a few sets. Rare as hens teeth.

Well they arrived yesterday.

s-l1600.jpg


This , and I have been noticing ppl; posting pics of their 1019s on instagram lately...its like it happens in cycles. - this was the universe telling me it was time.

So last night I did a thing.


When the hands arrived, I dug out my old Yuki dial and Ofrie seconds hand and decided to do a quick and dirty to see if the spark returns..

well it did rekindle my love for it. 🔺

Specs:
Raffles Explorer case set.
5,3mm crown
drilled lugs to 1.3
no case work at all
Yuki Silver chapter ring dial
T22 beveled service crystal
1016 L T 22 bezel
Asian 2824
Ebay Hands
Ofrie red arrow seconds hand 🔺
Folded oyster bracelet.

I am more pleased with the results that I expected. I have tried this build with an explorer case in the past but it just didnt scratch the itch. however with the new hand set and the flat bezel, it really hits those design cues for me .

The sharp stock lugs on the case give the case some size to it.
The smooth very flat and wide bezel from 1016L really sells me on this build its really quite similar to gen. the flatness of the bezel makes it look wider than it is which is a noticeable design feature of the 1019

The hands , aged to match the dial lume look great in my opinion. not perfect, as the lume plots are bigger than gen, but its an acceptable compromise for having the correct shape and perfect lengths for this project. to match with the 29mm yuki dial

Using a raffles 5.3 crown also gives the visual appearance that the case set is larger than it is.
Id say its a solid 7/10 . giving the few mentioned issues earlier and that the case is 2mm smaller in diameter.

I think I want to add it back into my personal collection so I have 2 options here.

Keep the explorer case bezel crown combo and add some bevels to the lugs and some minor lug and side shaping to the mid case.
The gen has flatter case flanks.

or

As a Christmas gift to myself, I am about to pull the trigger on 1655 case set from Tiger concepts and go that route.
shave crown guards.
drill lug holes.
machine and polish the bezel
shave the cyclops off the crystal

I was considering the new raffles gmt case but the way the crown guards are in relation with the crown, I dont think it will look right once I grind off those crown guards. where as I know the 1655 case will work for me as I had done it previously.

Stay tuned for when those parts arrive and I go in hot on that mid case to make some milgauss magic.
In the meantime, Here is some eye candy for ya . not bad, but that extra 2mm will make all the difference.

Size apparently does matter. :ROFLMAO:

As always, questions and comments welcome, Thanks for looking.



🔺
The flat bezel makes it look wider than it is , which is a design cue of the 1019 - this flatter bezel combined with the flat service crystal really nails the proportions for me and makes the watch look larger than it is.
a tell is the proportion of the width of the bracelet in relation to the case . If someone was to analyze this they would notice that the case appears smaller than the gen spec of 38mm but the smaller crown, flat bezel and T22 crystal fool the eye to make it larger than it is.
Proportions seem to be better on the 36mm case, i took a look to rolojack exemplar and thé dial look small in thé case compare to your New attempt, congratulations my friend 🥳
 

369mafia

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Proportions seem to be better on the 36mm case, i took a look to rolojack exemplar and thé dial look small in thé case compare to your New attempt, congratulations my friend 🥳
Thanks brother.

Yes , his build way back when was defiantly inspirational as he claimed to have had the mid case custom made.

This was his first build. still looks good. I wonder who ended up with it and where it is now?

His second build in the mid 2010s , the bezel did look huge and the case set he used look more ideal for a 6541 smooth bezel watch than a 1019
 
Last edited:
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369mafia

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Proportions seem to be better on the 36mm case, i took a look to rolojack exemplar and thé dial look small in thé case compare to your New attempt, congratulations my friend 🥳

This was his second attempt IIRC

I agree with you , the bezel looks enormous and makes dial and rest of the watch small just not the right proportions Not knocking RoloJack. It is a difficult build I know I struggled with it big time on my first attempt .

P1360812.JPG.bbdc712d815c65d6ef9ef4f0c74696df.JPG

P1360820.JPG.30d5e6f7f29d5b505f34b0983450d82f.JPG

P1360823.JPG.4fc59b2162054f4c945cca539d525917.JPG


I think this case, bezel and crystal combo would have been better suited for a 6541 build.


 
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369mafia

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I found the link to my first project build thread next door. for the 1019 6542 .

the struggle was real back in the day.....kids these days dont know how good they got it *old man shaking fist and yelling at clouds *

 
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369mafia

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From my first attempt. In retrospect I dont know if I like the polished 1655 bezel any more .
IMG_8288.jpg.a9ae14b742815ee72094bf93e17bd2ae.jpg


IMG_8384.jpg.3f4ea84d9cc7c24408f66e807f13f244.jpg

1117614555_1019dusk.jpg.a5d10580bfdef8778ef81ada1c56963b.jpg


a gen example its a lot closer to the 1016L bezel I am using currently.

uydhgrshd.png.89e8f8bebaef16ecdac29abecb78fed9.png


I am starting to lean towards sticking with what I got modifying the explorer mid case with some flatter sides and chamfers
 
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369mafia

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This was an example that was offered on Ali Express in the mid 2010s I wanted to buy one for the hands but looking back I am glad I didn't waste the money
although it was a 36mm case the proportions and bezel look good on it.

text is too small
bad lume work
bad cornet
hands are better but not great but was the best option at the time. for eta dg movements




This was offered by another chinesse company . the dial was better but the used date just hands.

post-43268-0-25796500-1331390148.jpg
 
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pafou

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Very impressed with your build. And here I was recently looking for reps of vintage Milgauss, ideally Franken. Beauty!
 
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Procurator

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Thanks to posts like these and work like 369mafia’s forced me to a realization, that Im an old fart now and Im in love with these vintage things. 😍😵‍💫

Congratulations on a wonderful piece!
 

1016 lover

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Is 2 mm that big of a deal ?
I ve Saw lot of 1019 quote to 37mm on various web source, 36mm is not to far, and the Yuki dial seem to small to go in a bigger case, on one spare gen dial, the diamètre is 29.1mm and the indexes seem way more close to the contour than yuki thing
The flank could be reworked to go flat but to go to 35mm , a ladys 1019 😄
This dial seem to be design for 36mm, your attempt finish to convince me
 
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369mafia

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update:

I HATE WATCHES!! 🤬🤬🤬

okay now that I have that out of my system. I can continue .

Years ago I picked up DH GATE shitter 1655 with the intent of using it for a build.

Fast forward to this week I thought I would take a crack at it and see if I can get this milgauss done.


I first ground off the crown guards. , sanded and polished the the case flank I double checked the dial seat and it looks like the yuki dial would just fit.

The tube was larger , for a 7mm crown. the hole in the case was too large for a 5.2mm or even a 6mm crown tube. wasnt sure how I was going to deal with that , but I thought if I can get the watch to look the way I want , Ill deal with that issue later on. I wanted to do a quick and dirty build to see if this would work.

my idea was to use the 1655 bezel . machine it smooth paying attention to the pitch and angle of the bezel so that I can achieve. The proper look.




So i was content with the proportions so i went into my shop today and machined the bezel smooth. I did much better than my first attempt. But still left me disappointed.



The smooth bezel looks huge in comparison to how it looked originally.
It just doesn’t speak to me

The rehaut is too deep and natrow.
The bezel is too wide for a 1019

Feeling gutted. Ive decided that i will use this case for a 6541 smooth bezel build which it will look perfect for. But for a 1019 its not the result I was after.

My solution was much simpler than all of this.
 
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369mafia

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19mm oyster bracelet with snug fitting spring bars and 20mm end links.

Again , it tricks the eye to make the head of the watch look larger

That is the balance and proportions that was after. 😍. I feel like I have achieved the golden ratio of the dial to the bezel to the case to the bracelet.

As with most reps. There are compromises. For me its the size of the case and the flanks of the mid case. However with the 19mm bracelet it makes the case look bigger on the wrist.

I will live with it for now until I find a suitable case set ....if there is one for a reasonable price.
 
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369mafia

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The only suitable case set avalible is from phong and its 1400 usd.

This went up for sale in 2020 and it was as good as you can get without going gen.

IIRC it had a gen dial , hands and 1580 movement.


 

369mafia

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Phong sells a complete build with gen 1580 mvmt

l_IMG_6219_20221001172157.JPG


complete case set with faraday cage.

1019-5.jpg


I really dig the 1019 but I cant justify dropping 1400 usd for the case or 9000 ish usd for a complete build. Yes , its as close to gen as you can get but .......
 

1016 lover

Active Member
4/10/22
490
820
93
update:

I HATE WATCHES!! 🤬🤬🤬

okay now that I have that out of my system. I can continue .

Years ago I picked up DH GATE shitter 1655 with the intent of using it for a build.

Fast forward to this week I thought I would take a crack at it and see if I can get this milgauss done.


I first ground off the crown guards. , sanded and polished the the case flank I double checked the dial seat and it looks like the yuki dial would just fit.

The tube was larger , for a 7mm crown. the hole in the case was too large for a 5.2mm or even a 6mm crown tube. wasnt sure how I was going to deal with that , but I thought if I can get the watch to look the way I want , Ill deal with that issue later on. I wanted to do a quick and dirty build to see if this would work.

my idea was to use the 1655 bezel . machine it smooth paying attention to the pitch and angle of the bezel so that I can achieve. The proper look.




So i was content with the proportions so i went into my shop today and machined the bezel smooth. I did much better than my first attempt. But still left me disappointed.



The smooth bezel looks huge in comparison to how it looked originally.
It just doesn’t speak to me

The rehaut is too deep and natrow.
The bezel is too wide for a 1019

Feeling gutted. Ive decided that i will use this case for a 6541 smooth bezel build which it will look perfect for. But for a 1019 its not the result I was after.

My solution was much simpler than all of this.
Had the same problem with the 39mm explorer case but thought it was due to the facture that IS saphire case...