A while back I sold a DSSD here on RWI that I had modded with a Matt Dial. A few members asked if I would do a tutorial, which I did promise to do, so here it is (albeit slightly later than planned).
Firstly, I am just going to show how to apply the matt coat to the dial rather than a step by step on how to disassemble the watch etc. There are plenty of other threads on RWI showing this, and I am going to assume you can do that already if you are going to tackle this job. Hope that is ok...
OK, so I am starting from the point that you have removed the dial from the movement and removed all of the dial markers.
So here is the 'glossy dial' which is mounted onto a clean piece of scrap wood (no dust!) using rodico:
The reasoning behind the piece of wood (approx 8 inches long) is to be be able to place the dial in the best posssible position for coating with the matt lacquer, and also to allow it to be moved when drying, without being touched by my hands!
I am using a Humbrol model spray which I purchased from my local toy and hobby shop:
The main reason for choosing enamel is that it will not yellow with age, will not react with the plastic surface of the dial and, because it is for small model work, has a very fine nozzle for spraying.
Ok, so I am going to doing the work in my garage where it will be undisturbed whilst curing. You need to choose your workspace carefully. A major problem with spraying is damp getting into the paint and causing a 'blooming' effect (where the paint appears cloudy). You need an area that is dry and with an even temperature. If you choose to paint in an outdoor building, you don't want to be doing this in the winter (well certainly not in the UK!). Also, if you are painting in an outdoor building, make sure you don't open the door while the paint/lacquer is still wet, a sudden change in temperature can also cause the 'blooming' effect.
Using a dust blower I make sure the surface of the dial is immaculately clean. As with any paintjob, preparation is the key to success. I double and triple check that it is clean and free from dust before beginning the spray work.
Next I shake the spray can (away from the dial so as to ensure no dust gets on it!). This is essential to make sure the lacquer is a good consistancy and doesn't come out of the can in blobs, which will ruin the surface of the dial.
I start off by testing the spray on a the surface of the scrap wood, away from the dial. Holding the can approximately 12 inches away from the surface, depress the nozzle for a very short burst (less that a second!) and keep your hand moving, as though you are painting a line, i.e. don't just spray one spot. If the lacquer is coming out of the nozzle in a fine spray, you are ready to go.
So now, apply the same technique as above, again, a short burst for less than a second, applying the lacquer to the dial, whilst keeping your hand moving. As a guide, I try and spray 3 or 4 inches either side of the dial. So imagine you are painting a line approx 6-7 inches long with the dial in the middle. You are looking to put a VERY LIGHT dusting of lacquer on the dial, so it looks almost speckled. Leave this dry for 2 minutes, then repeat. Leave a further 2 minutes then do the same, until the dial is completely coated and looks 'wet' like this:
Now leave it to cure. You can se it will look patchy for a while like this:
It is important to leave it to cure naturally. This is why I chose to use the garage, where it can be left undisturbed. I left this dial for several hours before checking if it was cured then brought it back into the house where the air is slightly warmer.
Now I leave the dial to cure fully overnight, so it looks like this:
Then reapply the markers:
And then the hands:
And reassemble the watch:
I hope this is clear, and makes sense! It's one of those things that is easier to do than to explain!
-OW
Firstly, I am just going to show how to apply the matt coat to the dial rather than a step by step on how to disassemble the watch etc. There are plenty of other threads on RWI showing this, and I am going to assume you can do that already if you are going to tackle this job. Hope that is ok...
OK, so I am starting from the point that you have removed the dial from the movement and removed all of the dial markers.
So here is the 'glossy dial' which is mounted onto a clean piece of scrap wood (no dust!) using rodico:
The reasoning behind the piece of wood (approx 8 inches long) is to be be able to place the dial in the best posssible position for coating with the matt lacquer, and also to allow it to be moved when drying, without being touched by my hands!
I am using a Humbrol model spray which I purchased from my local toy and hobby shop:
The main reason for choosing enamel is that it will not yellow with age, will not react with the plastic surface of the dial and, because it is for small model work, has a very fine nozzle for spraying.
Ok, so I am going to doing the work in my garage where it will be undisturbed whilst curing. You need to choose your workspace carefully. A major problem with spraying is damp getting into the paint and causing a 'blooming' effect (where the paint appears cloudy). You need an area that is dry and with an even temperature. If you choose to paint in an outdoor building, you don't want to be doing this in the winter (well certainly not in the UK!). Also, if you are painting in an outdoor building, make sure you don't open the door while the paint/lacquer is still wet, a sudden change in temperature can also cause the 'blooming' effect.
Using a dust blower I make sure the surface of the dial is immaculately clean. As with any paintjob, preparation is the key to success. I double and triple check that it is clean and free from dust before beginning the spray work.
Next I shake the spray can (away from the dial so as to ensure no dust gets on it!). This is essential to make sure the lacquer is a good consistancy and doesn't come out of the can in blobs, which will ruin the surface of the dial.
I start off by testing the spray on a the surface of the scrap wood, away from the dial. Holding the can approximately 12 inches away from the surface, depress the nozzle for a very short burst (less that a second!) and keep your hand moving, as though you are painting a line, i.e. don't just spray one spot. If the lacquer is coming out of the nozzle in a fine spray, you are ready to go.
So now, apply the same technique as above, again, a short burst for less than a second, applying the lacquer to the dial, whilst keeping your hand moving. As a guide, I try and spray 3 or 4 inches either side of the dial. So imagine you are painting a line approx 6-7 inches long with the dial in the middle. You are looking to put a VERY LIGHT dusting of lacquer on the dial, so it looks almost speckled. Leave this dry for 2 minutes, then repeat. Leave a further 2 minutes then do the same, until the dial is completely coated and looks 'wet' like this:
Now leave it to cure. You can se it will look patchy for a while like this:
It is important to leave it to cure naturally. This is why I chose to use the garage, where it can be left undisturbed. I left this dial for several hours before checking if it was cured then brought it back into the house where the air is slightly warmer.
Now I leave the dial to cure fully overnight, so it looks like this:
Then reapply the markers:
And then the hands:
And reassemble the watch:
I hope this is clear, and makes sense! It's one of those things that is easier to do than to explain!
-OW
