How to tell the Gen and Rep Omega

[CHRONOPISS]

Hello all the Masters,

I am a Panerai fan and I can tell the Gen and Rep by looking at it. But for Omega, Can you guys teach me some tricks to tell the difference?

Thanks

 

[takashi]

Any specific model?

On the Seamaster Pro 300m, the easiest tell is to observe the Seamaster writing on the dial. the m looks more like n and check out the lume too. Next will be He valve position and crown shape. A more subtle details will be the pearl and the caseback (sometimes the pearl is really bad making it an obvious tell).

On Planet Ocean, concentrate on Omega logo on the dial, the pearl and luminosity. At the same time, check out the serial number too. 42.5mm PO doesn't have the serial number on the lug (the gen should have it). Crown and He valve are good tell too.

On Speedmaster date, check out the datefont and overall lume dots on the dial. Check out luminosity too.

There are more but it will be easier if you are more specific.

 

[CHRONOPISS]

Taka,

Thanks, I found I interested post about a fake planet ocean sale on ebay, That's why I am curious about how to tell the difference. I like to know seamaster diver series too cause I like those models as well.

Thanks again,
P

 

[takashi]

So far the best Omega rep on the market is IMHO the chronograph Seamaster Pro.

Check out bracelet too... I have not seen an outstanding rep Omega bracelet, including those from closed old factory model.

 

[Exploder]

Hi there - good to get some insightful Omega help!

I'm in the market for a Seamaster Pro and have found one posted by Time4Direct (viewtopic.php?f=196&t=44605), but not sure about how accurate it is. There is a choice of black or blue, see photo below, but they differ a bit from each other, for instance datewheel and hands. I have not been able to find any good photos of gens for comparison, but for the ones I have found "Seamaster" is in red. Anyways Taka, I would be grateful if you could point out the obvious rep give-aways in this piece! (It's only $99 so I will probably get one, but it would be nice to know the flaws. )

Thanks Xplodr

 

[Importr]

Ok, for the price, you're gonna get a number of flaws. Just a case of whether you're bothered?! :lol:
Maybe I've missed some, but this is what I see:

1) Rep date windows have a curve - the gen is straight
2) bad pearls
3) 1 piece cast end links instead of having 4 separate polished inserts
4) bezel misalignment
5) HE valve placement is a little low?
6) crown a tad long?

 

[rooster133]

Hey Exploder, I did a bit of reasearch on this model a while back, and from memory I think it's a good rep with a number of small issues. These, if I remember correctly, are mainly in the bracelet, the pearl, the position of the He valve, and the bezel (which someone complained often tends to be poorly aligned). Also, the black dial and bezel model is a fantasy model. I think that's about it, from what I can remember. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong or elaborate on some of these issues.

 

[Importr]

Hey Exploder, I did a bit of reasearch on this model a while back, and from memory I think it's a good rep with a number of small issues. These, if I remember correctly, are mainly in the bracelet, the pearl, the position of the He valve, and the bezel (which someone complained often tends to be poorly aligned). Also, the black dial and bezel model is a fantasy model. I think that's about it, from what I can remember. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong or elaborate on some of these issues.

Hey I think you're right about the Black being fantasy! lol

I couldn't find it anywhere in my Omega book

 

[takashi]

Yes, the black is fantasy model. I think more or less you have covered the flaws of this piece. Pretty obvious IMHO. Just to add a bit, datefont is wrong and the lume on markers are too green.

 

[Exploder]

Thanks guys! The black one being a fantasy explains a lot.

Ok, for the price, you're gonna get a number of flaws. Just a case of whether you're bothered?! :lol:
Maybe I've missed some, but this is what I see:

1) Rep date windows have a curve - the gen is straight
2) bad pearls
3) 1 piece cast end links instead of having 4 separate polished inserts
4) bezel misalignment
5) HE valve placement is a little low?
6) crown a tad long?

Live with:

1) Date window - Ok. And the gen date wheel is white - correct?
2) Pearl - Hmmm. Probably, but those things can really bug me.
3) Can live with that.
4) Bezel misalignment - No, no, no. That is really annoying. Why is it so hard to get it alligned? Is there a fix? Pry the insert off and glue it back on?
5) Can live with that.
6) That is ok, I think.

What about Seamaster? Shouldn't that be in red and is it placed correctly? Should it be just under "Omega"?

And by the way. I bought a Planet Ocean Chrono QUARTZ from Rooster. I mainly intended to use it for sports but it actually gets a lot of wrist time, so I'm not so anal I guess. The ticking second hand bothers me less that the subdial spacing would... Thank's Rooster! I really like the heavy, solid feel of that watch.

Xplodr

 

[rooster133]

Thanks guys! The black one being a fantasy explains a lot.

Ok, for the price, you're gonna get a number of flaws. Just a case of whether you're bothered?! :lol:
Maybe I've missed some, but this is what I see:

1) Rep date windows have a curve - the gen is straight
2) bad pearls
3) 1 piece cast end links instead of having 4 separate polished inserts
4) bezel misalignment
5) HE valve placement is a little low?
6) crown a tad long?

Live with:

1) Date window - Ok. And the gen date wheel is white - correct?
2) Pearl - Hmmm. Probably, but those things can really bug me.
3) Can live with that.
4) Bezel misalignment - No, no, no. That is really annoying. Why is it so hard to get it alligned? Is there a fix? Pry the insert off and glue it back on?
5) Can live with that.
6) That is ok, I think.

What about Seamaster? Shouldn't that be in red and is it placed correctly? Should it be just under "Omega"?

And by the way. I bought a Planet Ocean Chrono QUARTZ from Rooster. I mainly intended to use it for sports but it actually gets a lot of wrist time, so I'm not so anal I guess. The ticking second hand bothers me less that the subdial spacing would... Thank's Rooster! I really like the heavy, solid feel of that watch.

Xplodr

Hey mate, great to hear you've been enjoying the PO! I agree that if subdial misalignment is a source of frustration, the ticking seconds is a minor hassle in comparison... Say hello to the PO from me and tell her I miss her! :lol:

I think the colours on the dial are ok. The bezel can be fixed. The bracelet can be changed (can't tell for sure, but this one might be the one with screws rather than the correct pins), if it bothers you (it wouldn't bother me).

 

[CHRONOPISS]

Yes, the black is fantasy model. I think more or less you have covered the flaws of this piece. Pretty obvious IMHO. Just to add a bit, datefont is wrong and the lume on markers are too green.

i agree w/ taka, Lume is obvious thing to tell most the time. They just can't get the color right.

 

[CHRONOPISS]

This is the one on ebay, where is the fake about it?

 

[rooster133]

Mmmhh... from what I can see in that picture the 10 o'c clock valve is in the wrong position, the hands are too small, and the pearl looks too big. The pic is too tiny to clearly see the date window, but if it's black on white that's wrong too.

 

[CHRONOPISS]

Thank, Rooster,
May I know what the pearl is? is the braclet?

 

[hk45ca]

the pearl is the lume dot on the bezel insert.

 

[Tommy Tom]

Checking out a friends gen Speedmaster the other day, he told me that there was a tiny Omega logo engraved onto the centre of the crystal which can only be seen with a loupe....and there it was.

I certainly didn't know that until then.

 

[manydivers]

Hi,

An obvious facet of some of the $100 SMP's is the bracelet is in flat sections, it should be smoothly rounded.

The flattish rep bracelet has pins,

the more rounded rep bracelet usually $200 ETA SMP's annoyingly small screws.

/mds.