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How to regulate your watch( for watches with regulation lever). Step by step pictorial

alvinado

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Step 1: Prepare the tools and equipment you'll need


Before you start regulating a watch, you'll need to make sure you have the right tools and equipment. Here's what you'll need:


A watch timing machine
A case opener
A pair of tweezers
A screwdriver set
A demagnetizer (optional, but recommended)
A watch movement holder (optional)
A magnifying glass or loupe (optional)

Do a first test of the watch on the timegrapher

Before demagnetization


Demagnetize the watch

Step 2: Open the watch case



Use the case opener to remove the back cover of the watch. Be careful not to scratch or damage the case or crystal. In my case l, I have to tape up the front of the watch so the screws don’t fall out

Step 3: Remove the watch movement (optional)

Once you have the back cover off, carefully remove the watch movement from the case using a pair of tweezers. Place the movement in the movement holder to keep it secure and stable.

Step 4: Check the watch's current rate with caseback off

Use the watch timing machine to measure the watch's current rate. This will tell you how fast or slow the watch is running. If the watch is running fast, it will need to be slowed down. If it's running slow, it will need to be sped up. In this case it’s running approximately 20 secs fast.

Step 5: Adjust the regulator

The regulator is a small lever on the watch movement that controls the length of the hairspring, which in turn affects the watch's rate. Use a screwdriver to move the regulator lever slightly in one direction or the other, depending on whether you need to speed up or slow down the watch. Use the timing machine to check the watch's rate after each adjustment until you get it as close to perfect as possible.



In our case, the regulator arm is the longer one with 1 dot. To slow the watch down move it closer to the other arm ( known as the beat lever), to make it faster, move it away from the beat lever.

Step 6: Check the watch's beat error



The beat error is a measure of how evenly the watch's balance wheel is swinging back and forth. Use the timing machine to check the beat error, and adjust it if necessary. The beat error should ideally be between 0.1 and 0.6 milliseconds.

The picture shown is the beat error arm, in our example, beat error doesn’t have to be adjusted as it’s 0ms.

Step 7: Check the watch's amplitude

The amplitude is a measure of how far the balance wheel swings back and forth. Use the timing machine to check the watch's amplitude, and adjust it if necessary. The amplitude should ideally be between 250 and 300 degrees.

Step 8: Check the watch's positional error

The positional error is a measure of how much the watch's rate varies depending on its position. Use the timing machine to check the watch's positional error in several different positions (face up, face down, crown up, crown down, etc.), and adjust it if necessary.

Face UP - 2 secs

Crown down- 7 secs
Face down 0 secs

Crown up -6 secs

Crown left - 10 secs

Crown right- 4.5secs


Average rate across 6 positions .4.91 seconds/day. I am sure I could get it down further. But that’s it’s for the purpose of this tutorial.

Step 9: Demagnetize the watch (optional)

If the watch is running fast or slow even after you've regulated it, it could be magnetized. Use the demagnetizer to demagnetize the watch, and then check its rate again to see if it's improved.

Step 10: Put the watch back together

Once you're satisfied with the watch's rate, beat error, amplitude, and positional error, it's time to put the watch back together. Carefully place the movement back into the case, secure the back cover, and then set the time.




That's it! With these steps, you should be able to regulate a watch and get it running accurately and reliably. Just remember to be patient and careful, as watch movements are delicate and can easily be damaged if mishandled.
 
Last edited:

alvinado

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i am far from an expert- but if your beat error is off, that needs to be corrected prior to the rate.

Someone with more knowledge than i please chime in if i am wrong.

It can be done concurrently depend on the tightness/looseness of the levers.

Sometimes adjusting one will cause the other to fluctuate.

So yes you can adjust the beat error first .
 

RDRoss

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Great write up Sir! I always appreciate the effort people put in to doing these helpful tutorials.
 

SS72

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Thanks for the time when effort to share this.
Do you find results vary depending on whether you test the watch with the crystal seated on the mic vs the back of the watch, and then with the case back on and off?
 

alvinado

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Thanks for the time when effort to share this.
Do you find results vary depending on whether you test the watch with the crystal seated on the mic vs the back of the watch, and then with the case back on and off?
For Crystal seated on the watch vs the back of the watch there is a variation due to positional difference. Caseback on and off there is no difference.
 

SS72

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For Crystal seated on the watch vs the back of the watch there is a variation due to positional difference. Caseback on and off there is no difference.
Thanks. Interesting. Sub case backs interfere less than a Deepsea, but I find there is a definite difference either way. With the position variation, crystal down or up, I rotate the mic/holder so that the position is the same. But, again, different results through the crystal every time. Perhaps the 1000 series I'm using is just cheaper and more succeptible to interference than yours.
 

alvinado

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Thanks. Interesting. Sub case backs interfere less than a Deepsea, but I find there is a definite difference either way. With the position variation, crystal down or up, I rotate the mic/holder so that the position is the same. But, again, different results through the crystal every time. Perhaps the 1000 series I'm using is just cheaper and more succeptible to interference than yours.
yes, the lower ranges of the timegrapher has less sensitive mics. Maybe it is interfering
 
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