This is one of the things that I've asked time and again how to do. So I thought I would throw up a quick pictorial on doing this.
I bought a bench drill press specifically to be able to drill lug holes in rep cases. This one cost me about £110. Spending that extra £40-50 over basic ones like Silverline really makes a difference. The clamp on the table was another £20-30 but is essential. Even though they are both Clark they weren't compatible so I've had to jury rig a fixing system which is basically 4 long bolts to secure it to the table.
First up I check that it is in the correct drive mode for small high speed stainless steel.
Next you need the correct drill bits. I use HSS 1.25mm. 1.2mm is too small but if you can't find 1.25mm you can always use 1.3mm. These were really cheap. Like £10 for 10. You can find them on eBay around the world.
Next up is some tapping fluid. Not breaking the bank here either. Helps transport the metal swarf and keep the drill bit cool.
An important step is making sure that what you're drilling through is level. Here I'm just using some old metal brackets to support the watch case while I tighten up the clamp. I'm sure there are professional metal works cringing at this, but it does work.
Once the clamp is tightened your case isn't going anywhere. I use rubberised inserts on the clamp. This does two things, protects the case from any unwanted damage whilst using the clamp, and also allows a little bit of movement from the case.
So, next you need to align your case underneath the drill. I loosen the bolts holding the clamp to the table, and I also loosed the clamp on the table adjustment at the back. I lower the drill bit to near the case and then adjust the table and the clamp until it's reasonably correct.
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT. You get the alignment wrong and it's not going to forgive you. Take the time and make sure it is perfectly aligned. With the table fixed I use the small amount of play in the clamp to move the case into position. As you lower the drill bit the tip will seat itself into the top of the already existing lug hole. Slowly bring down the bit and see where it sits. If it bends slightly in one direction you need to move the clamp slightly in that direction. Keep doing this until as you bring the drill bit down it is completely vertical with no motion to any side. Check at front, check at sides, check at an angle. CHECK CHECK TRIPPLE CHECK AND CHECK AGAIN before even thinking about turning on the power.
Place a small amount of tapping fluid on top of the lug hole, this will seep through a little bit so make sure you have something underneath unless you are working on a workbench or something.
Finally, place the bit guard or wear some safety glass so that you dont have a chance of blinding yourself. Because if you do that, how are you going to look at all the awesome watches your building.
The drill bit literally takes about 3 seconds to go through the lug. You will take soooo much more time aligning it that actually drilling.
Tada! You've successfully drilled a lug hole. Now repeat all these steps another 3 times.
I bought a bench drill press specifically to be able to drill lug holes in rep cases. This one cost me about £110. Spending that extra £40-50 over basic ones like Silverline really makes a difference. The clamp on the table was another £20-30 but is essential. Even though they are both Clark they weren't compatible so I've had to jury rig a fixing system which is basically 4 long bolts to secure it to the table.
First up I check that it is in the correct drive mode for small high speed stainless steel.
Next you need the correct drill bits. I use HSS 1.25mm. 1.2mm is too small but if you can't find 1.25mm you can always use 1.3mm. These were really cheap. Like £10 for 10. You can find them on eBay around the world.
Next up is some tapping fluid. Not breaking the bank here either. Helps transport the metal swarf and keep the drill bit cool.
An important step is making sure that what you're drilling through is level. Here I'm just using some old metal brackets to support the watch case while I tighten up the clamp. I'm sure there are professional metal works cringing at this, but it does work.
Once the clamp is tightened your case isn't going anywhere. I use rubberised inserts on the clamp. This does two things, protects the case from any unwanted damage whilst using the clamp, and also allows a little bit of movement from the case.
So, next you need to align your case underneath the drill. I loosen the bolts holding the clamp to the table, and I also loosed the clamp on the table adjustment at the back. I lower the drill bit to near the case and then adjust the table and the clamp until it's reasonably correct.
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT. You get the alignment wrong and it's not going to forgive you. Take the time and make sure it is perfectly aligned. With the table fixed I use the small amount of play in the clamp to move the case into position. As you lower the drill bit the tip will seat itself into the top of the already existing lug hole. Slowly bring down the bit and see where it sits. If it bends slightly in one direction you need to move the clamp slightly in that direction. Keep doing this until as you bring the drill bit down it is completely vertical with no motion to any side. Check at front, check at sides, check at an angle. CHECK CHECK TRIPPLE CHECK AND CHECK AGAIN before even thinking about turning on the power.
Place a small amount of tapping fluid on top of the lug hole, this will seep through a little bit so make sure you have something underneath unless you are working on a workbench or something.
Finally, place the bit guard or wear some safety glass so that you dont have a chance of blinding yourself. Because if you do that, how are you going to look at all the awesome watches your building.
The drill bit literally takes about 3 seconds to go through the lug. You will take soooo much more time aligning it that actually drilling.
Tada! You've successfully drilled a lug hole. Now repeat all these steps another 3 times.
not something I will be attempting anytime soon but its great to know how its done for the future.
