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How - To: A Watch Guide For Begginers - Sub Dismantling

Edge

I'm Pretty Popular
15/3/06
1,049
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Tutorial:

How to completely disassemble your watch.


First off, this is not a patronisation excercise this is to try and help educate the plethora of begginers that we have. Lots of people ask how to do tit bits and that's great that is why we are here to help.

But I think that the really basic stuff is covered here, so if you want to open the case and check out the movement or anything like that just check this thread out and it'll be all good. This is a step by step tutorial on how to completely take your watch apart. The test subject watch was the POS SD that you saw in one of my earlier threads, which was bought for this exact purpose, testing and practicing.

Howeve I will not be held responsible for anyone screwing up their watch lol, but if you do follow this it's REALLY EASY.

I have done this with almost no tools, a very small amount are required.

HERE WE GO:

First off a quick shot of the case of the watch, with the bracelet already removed, please note that some vintagising was attempted on the dial prior to this hence some smal scratches and also the tea colour:

sdp1.jpg


Then in order to remove the caseback, take your caseback remover, or rubber gloves/duck tape, whatever you use and twist, COUNTER clockwise:

sdp2.jpg


Hey Presto one removed caseback:

sdp3.jpg


Next it's time to remove the crown/stem, this is done by pressing gently on the release, and then again GENTLY pulling out the crown. The release for this asian POS is very small and the release is a different shape from ETA models but general idea is the same.

sdp4.jpg


sdp5.jpg


Please take time to notice that this is a POS movement and an ETA would have movement clamp screws instead of this plastic thing. The ETA is easily removed by unscrewing the clamps with a 1.2mm screwdriver, whereas this POS just pops out lol.

Next we have to remove the hands. Take a hand remover or a set of tweezers, set the time to 12 so as to keep the date chage in the correct position, and gently pull, they come off reasonably easily.

sdp6.jpg


The Dial can be removed from the movement by gently prying the razor blade between the parts, as there is a little glue on it. On ETA models there are no feet so the dial is glued on, a little prying with a blade and it comes off easily. On the Asian efforts there are dial feet that need to be loosened out of place, but that is OVER SIMPLE, it's just a screwdriver and unscrewing the small screws that clamp them in place.

sdp7.jpg


Next it is the turn of the bezel assembley. This can be done at any point but I chose now lol. Slip a razor blade between the case and assembley and simply push down. Off it pops.

sdp8.jpg


I have taken out the bezel spring and also the O ring but that's immaterial.

Next a VERY techincal point, please note this is not for the handless........remove the crystal, on all non MBW vintage models the trick is to...........

sdp9.jpg


push it with your thumb lol, told you it was technical.

sdp10.jpg


And there you have it a completely dissassembled watch. I have added a couple of pics of all of the parts and also all of the parts and ALL of the tools used.

sdp11.jpg


sdp12.jpg


I hope you found this helpfull if not then F*** Y**. It's dead easy just try it honest, if I can do it anyone can. It's a stepping stone in growing the confidence you need to mod your own watch, which believe me is SOOO satisfying, it's a great feeling to know that you have successfully fixe your own watch and not had to send it off to be done.

At the end of the day, it's nice to experiment but please be carefull these things are delicate, and PATIENCE is KEY. Don't rush things or you will ruin what was a nice piece lol.

Enjoy!

Chris




Edge's Guide To Watches - Part II

What The Hell To Do With The Parts!!


The Eagerly Awaited Part II

I recently wrote a tutuorial on how to take apart a rolex. This is the follow up to that now that you guys have a lovely little collection of parts sitting on your desks lol.

You have fair warning this is a PROPER Modem Burner lol.

First off a quick shot of the watch parts disassembled from last time.

Reas1.jpg


First things first it's time to put the rystal back on. This one is simple just push it in place, yours may not be as simple but you might have to add a little crystal cement and press it into place.

ReasCrysPress.jpg


For me the next step was to reattach the dial, this can be done by alligning the feet with the screws, on the side of the movement, the feet only fit one way so allignment isn't really an issue.

ReasMoveScrew.jpg


ETA movements don't have feet so allignment is more difficult and the dial will need to be glued back onto the ring and attached back onto the movement.

Next the movement and dial were popped back into the plastic holder, which again differs in ETA models. In the ETa models there is no plastic holder the movement is held in place by movement clamps.

ReasMoveAssem.jpg


The nest step is the tricky part, well it WAS it's not now. Many of you struggle as I did with hand putting. I have been asked about tips and tricks, and to be honest I had NONE. Until now, I have solved the issue.

I spent an HOUR putting the seconds hand back on my 1680 which was VERY frustrating and time consuming. However the hand putting this tiem took me 10 seconds, "HOW??" I hear you say.......

The Hour and Minute hands are relatively simple to put, they can be reattached with tweezers and patience very simple. They can be pressed GENTLY into place by using the Hand Removal Tool.

ReasHandTweez.jpg


ReasHandPush.jpg


Now to the tricky part.....

- Take a piece of sellotape, fold it twice so that the sticky bit is no longer sticky
- Leave a sticky portion of enough length to get to the round mount in the middle
- Stick the seconds hand to the tape
- Position the seconds hand in the correct place
- Push gently on the round mount
- The tape then comes easily away without damaging the hand and leaves the hand in place.

ReasTOPTRICK.jpg


I suggest using sellotape as it is not that sticky so will come away easily and is transparent so one can see the mounting clearly.

EASY as that 10 seconds and it's all back together...WOOHOO!!!!

Thanks Chris you are my HERO!!!!.........I know thank you vey much guys........

Next the reassembled movement/dial can be reentered into the case.

ReasMoveinCase.jpg


Next comes the O-Ring....DON@T FORGET THE O-RING!!!!.

Take some Silicon Grease....

ReasSiliGrease.jpg


Put some on your fingers and apply to the O-Ring....

ReasSiliGreaApp.jpg


Then it's time to put the O-Ring back into the case......

ReasSiliORingApp.jpg


Pop it into the groove and gently press around witht a screwdriver or suchlike to get in into place.

Then it's time for the case back. Put it on and screw it round, then take the caseback removal toll and tighten it up nice and secure....

ReasCaseBAckon.jpg


Next it's the turn of the bezel assembly.

Put some glue on the bezel, just a little, then press the insert back into position....

ReasBezPush.jpg


TAH DAH!!

ReasBezReass.jpg


Then it's time for the washer, put the start of the washer into the groove and then gently work it round with your finger.

ReasBezWash1.jpg


It will sit quite happily in it's groove......

ReasBezWashIn.jpg


Then comes the bezel assembly's turn to go onto the case....simple....align it and push lol.....

ReasBezasspushon.jpg


Simple as that and then you are all done......

ReasFinish.jpg


There are some small variances in procedure between ETA and Asian that I hope I have covered, it's all pretty simple stuff just need to get the finger out and try it guys.....

NOW NOTE!!

It is a good idea to use Greaseproof paper to protect the dial, I didn't have any on han and seeing as it's a POS watch I didn't bother going to get any. I higly recommend this as it prevents any damage to the dial.

The crown is pushed into place when the movement is in the case and doesn't really merit a mention but it's just get pushed into position really really simple.

Well guys that's us I really hope you hve enjoyed Part II and that you will try and do some of this stuff for yourself.

I hope that you hav learned some stuff and that you have got the gumption to give using my tutorials a go.

I have to give a massive Thanks to the people who helped me have the balls to give it a go....

Randy, Joe, Rob, Dave, Bob and the others thanks so much for all of your time and help it has been irreplaceable.

Well Peace Out!!

Enjoy!

Chris
 
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iceberg1459

Renowned Member
Certified
27/3/08
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Exellent tutorial,thank you.

Tell me can i change the crystal of a version1 SSD with this method?
 

rolly_olly

Renowned Member
DO NOT TRADE WITH ME
25/2/11
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Great guide Edge. This will help when I do a movement transplant on my Tudor Prince rep. :) +rep given
 
D

d4m.test

Guest
Edge That whole post is great, easy to follow,& learn from. My favorite part is the "how to replace the seconds hand" part, that is GREAT! Thank you!
 

BADWIN BING

Respected Member
30/4/10
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One of the best tutorials I've read. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Rog, did you notice when this thread was posted? And the length of time it took to get a reply?

The OP took a lot of time putting this together. I'm glad it's finally getting some recognition. Incredible.
 

cybee

Legendary Member
Supporter
23/11/06
11,134
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Rog, did you notice when this thread was posted? And the length of time it took to get a reply?

The OP took a lot of time putting this together. I'm glad it's finally getting some recognition. Incredible.

You are right BB. It does take a lot of time to do a tutorial like this. Nowadays I think the toots get more notice and the authors more recognition, and rightly so.

Edge was one of founding members here but he left due to certain actions by Klink who was on staff at the time. Edge and a few other members did not care for Klinks antics. I, on the other hand enjoyed them, not to mention his unique way of posting LoL. If you go back and search old posts you can gradually piece the puzzle together.
 

BADWIN BING

Respected Member
30/4/10
4,784
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You are right BB. It does take a lot of time to do a tutorial like this. Nowadays I think the toots get more notice and the authors more recognition, and rightly so.

Edge was one of founding members here but he left due to certain actions by Klink who was on staff at the time. Edge and a few other members did not care for Klinks antics. I, on the other hand enjoyed them, not to mention his unique way of posting LoL. If you go back and search old posts you can gradually piece the puzzle together.

Thanks cybee. When I have the time I'll do just that.....I like a bit of history.

I like jigsaws too, so it'll be fun putting the pieces together. Cheers.
 

RWIGWH

RWI's Great White Hope
Supporter
10/2/07
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Christ Cy, you are giving homework out, and Klink is the first assignment? That's just wrong lol...
 

cybee

Legendary Member
Supporter
23/11/06
11,134
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Christ Cy, you are giving homework out, and Klink is the first assignment? That's just wrong lol...

I know Z..it's wrong a very difficult assignment indeed. But worth the effort.
 

horn34

Active Member
31/3/12
288
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uh, how do you remove/reseat an ETA movement? You said the process was different than what you were illustrating, but you never mentioned or showed how to do it. I'm trying to build a Tudor and I have no idea how to mount the ETA movement.
 

rocketrancher

Getting To Know The Place
11/12/09
15
0
1
Great illustration!

I started wrestling with bezel removal from an LV rep, thinking it had a conventional click spring and sure wasn't getting anywhere with reasonable effort. But peering into the gap I thought I saw a corrugated wire spring in the groove and this confirms. I think I can approach with renewed enthusiasm.

Thankful for Edge's legacy.
 

razzer

Known Member
23/9/12
127
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I know the tut is old but thanks 4 the ETA description. I really didn't realize.