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How do you remove those new case sharp edges?

billten

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I'm sure there is a trick to it but i'm looking for the right way to soften the sharp edges on a brand new rep case without scratching the crap out of it. I'm using 400 grit paper right now and not 100% happy with either the process or the results, any suggestions would be much appreciated...
 

velox

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Try more fine one (600/800) and give it some time, this is steel man ;)
 

kilowattore

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A good way to soften an edge without loosing the polished finish is to mount a felt wheel on a dremel and use some medium polishing paste (I use dialux grey). Or if you have a bit more experience and you feel you can control it better you can use some buffing compound (dialux brown) on a felt wheel, then the polishing compounds (in this case I use grey, then green, then white). Use a different wheel for every compound.
 

billten

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Dremmel and a felt wheel, brilliant i never thought about that... Thanks i'll give it a go.

A good way to soften an edge without loosing the polished finish is to mount a felt wheel on a dremel and use some medium polishing paste (I use dialux grey). Or if you have a bit more experience and you feel you can control it better you can use some buffing compound (dialux brown) on a felt wheel, then the polishing compounds (in this case I use grey, then green, then white). Use a different wheel for every compound.
 

Dowbs

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I just use a bit of fine sandpaper honestly, simple and effective.
 

J!m1

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I always attack the high polish areas with 1500 grit dry with a very light touch. Go in a swirling motion and you get a very believable "honest wear" look to the polished areas. Finish with a Sunshine cloth to clean and soften the swirls. Works great for me.

For the edges of the case I'd do as suggested. As part of the normal aging, I end up softening these areas anyway by default.

I mean, it's either sharp, or it's not. Make the decision and take the edges down. Then re-polish the polished surfaces if you need the bling back.
 

Alex_P1

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To take off a sharp edge or burr, a burnisher is the proper tool. I use mine on every watch I buy and it is much more difficult to damage the case and finish than by using an abrasive, it also just removes the edge and not part of the case.
 

Raddave

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To take off a sharp edge or burr, a burnisher is the proper tool. I use mine on every watch I buy and it is much more difficult to damage the case and finish than by using an abrasive, it also just removes the edge and not part of the case.


what exactly is that ?
 

Alex_P1

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what exactly is that ?

A burnisher or burnishing tool looks like a screwdriver someone has made into a prison weapon! It's an extremely hard stainless steel shaft with a blunt tapered tip.

The idea is that the tool is much harder than the item you're using it on, so when you rub it on a sharp edge it results in plastic deformation which smooths it out. You can also use a burnisher to polish a surface by "smoothing out" a scratch, however, that is pretty advanced...
 

kilowattore

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A burnisher or burnishing tool looks like a screwdriver someone has made into a prison weapon! It's an extremely hard stainless steel shaft with a blunt tapered tip.

The idea is that the tool is much harder than the item you're using it on, so when you rub it on a sharp edge it results in plastic deformation which smooths it out. You can also use a burnisher to polish a surface by "smoothing out" a scratch, however, that is pretty advanced...

That's a very interesting tool!
Is that the tool watchmakers use to polish the bevelled edges on movement bridges?
Do you have a link?
 

Alex_P1

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That's a very interesting tool!
Is that the tool watchmakers use to polish the bevelled edges on movement bridges?
Do you have a link?

I have no affiliation to the seller nor endorse the product, but I use something similar to the straight tool shown here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proops-Str...UTF8&qid=1471976024&sr=8-3&keywords=Burnisher

You could probably use it to polish a bevelled edge, but I wouldn't have the balls to try it!

It is absolutely fine for taking sharp edges off cases, buckles and bracelet links, just remember if you're working on bronze or titanium it needs a lot less force than stainless...
 

Raddave

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I have no affiliation to the seller nor endorse the product, but I use something similar to the straight tool shown here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proops-Str...UTF8&qid=1471976024&sr=8-3&keywords=Burnisher

You could probably use it to polish a bevelled edge, but I wouldn't have the balls to try it!

It is absolutely fine for taking sharp edges off cases, buckles and bracelet links, just remember if you're working on bronze or titanium it needs a lot less force than stainless...


Oh heck. ive got one of those....i thought it was a deburring tool........gonna have to dig it out and give it a try !
 

Alex_P1

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Oh heck. ive got one of those....i thought it was a deburring tool........gonna have to dig it out and give it a try !

Deburring is essentially what we're trying to achieve, just picture your burr as being sharp edge and not something which stands proud.

You want to work the edge so as to round it off rather than flatten it, so I'd recommend giving it a couple so strokes at 45 degrees to each face (assuming it's a 90 degree edge), feel what's happened, and then work more aligned with each face in turn to deform the material equally and roll the edge.

Try on a piece of scrap metal first, an old piece of cutlery is good, and try not to apply too much force to speed the process up as if you slip, the point may scratch the case badly.
 

Raddave

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Deburring is essentially what we're trying to achieve, just picture your burr as being sharp edge and not something which stands proud.

You want to work the edge so as to round it off rather than flatten it, so I'd recommend giving it a couple so strokes at 45 degrees to each face (assuming it's a 90 degree edge), feel what's happened, and then work more aligned with each face in turn to deform the material equally and roll the edge.

Try on a piece of scrap metal first, an old piece of cutlery is good, and try not to apply too much force to speed the process up as if you slip, the point may scratch the case badly.



Thanks for the tips !
 

kilowattore

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+1 thanks!
I think I'll try it on a broken molnija I have and see what happens :)