Above: Shell Cordovan Rolls
As you can see above, unlike calf leather, shell cordovan does not crease if taken care of. The leather "rolls" instead of crease.
Shell Cordovan
Introduction to Shell Cordovan
GENUINE SHELL CORDOVAN
Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan® is the art of tanning at its finest. More than just a color, it is a very specific leather, from a particular part of a horsehide. The irregular oval shaped shells are tanned, stuffed, shaved, and then polished – a process taking at least six months. Each shell is slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors. The shells are genuine hot stuffed then slicked onto glass frames to dry. Each shell is hand curried and shaved by highly skilled artisans to expose the shell. Dyes are hand rubbed on for a deep aniline finish. Finally, the shells are hand glazed to achieve the rich, glossy look and feel prized by fine craftsmen.
Additionally, shell cordovan is a material which really isn't skin unlike calf leather, Shell cordovan is a membrane taken from the horse's ass. As such, the tanning process requires 6 months of prep time due to it's structure. Cordovan is a material which requires little to no need for excessive care. Unlike calf skin which requires frequent nourishment and conditioning, cordovan has a high oil/wax content, requiring only brushing to bring up the natural luster and shine.
Above: Shell Cordovan Straps
Below: The Shell Cordovan's location on the horse
I got interested in shell cordovan as a material from straps, which proceeded on to shoes and wallets. The natural patina that this material is nothing like I have on my standard calf straps.
When I first got hands on a strap from cordovan, what immediately struck was the depth of color and natural luster that looked natural instead of artificial. Till this day, none of my calf leather straps could come close to the patina that was achieved through prolonged use. While a pricey endeavor, I felt that I was getting more money for buck as cordovan ages beautifully.
Horween's Tanning Process
Introduction About Horween
https://www.horween.com/
Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905. For more than 100 years and five generations our goal has been to make the world's best leather. Making the best means doing lots of little things right. It means never mistaking fastest or cheapest with the best. It means always using formulas that do not cut corners, and choosing components strictly for their quality.
Horween Leather offers an unparalleled blend of quality, consistency, responsiveness, and innovation. Through the years, we have cultivated our experience to offer dynamic lines of leathers. Our products include traditional, old world tannages and techniques, carefully updated with modern applications. Today, our leathers are still made by hand, the same way as generations ago.
What is shell cordovan made into?
In our circle, shell cordovan is used to make straps. They range from entry level Fluco (Germany), to higher priced Hodinkee straps.
They are extended to make shoes as well. Most notably, Alden and Allen Edmonds are the biggest names for shell cordovan shoes.
They extend to wallets, bags and belts. However, bags and belts are on the pricey side due to the limited length cordovan has.
-Ret
