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GMT crystal sits too low to clear the second hand

KJ2020

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So the crystal sits too low on your GMT for whatever reason and the second hand is hitting its underside. You want to keep the gasket and crystal like they are and try to lower the second hand on its pinion. Can this be done safely?

The first thing I would try is a different second hand. The GMT reps use a “long pinion” second hand which has a longer collar hole surround. It is approximately 1.5mm long to the top of the hole surround. The Submariner reps use a much shorter collar on their second hands. This might work, I think it’s worth trying as it is the simplest potential solution.

Another potential solution is shaving off some of the GMT second hand collar and opening up the hole a bit (broaching) it so the hand will slide down further on the second hand pinion, which is slightly tapered. You can just gently tap a sewing needle into the collar if you don’t have broaching tools.

Here’s some pics of shaving the GMT “long pinion” seconds hand collar.

Starting distance from center wheel to underside of second hand hole surround on my sample was 5.50mm

jLJm4.jpg


jLVPI.jpg


Second hand starting height was ~1.50mm

jeDeX.jpg


I put some bracelet protective tape on the finished side of the hand and taped the hand to my mat. This worked well, I could press down gently on the hand on opposite sides of the center and sand it. I marked a toothpick at 1.0mm to know when to quit. You can put a small non-sticky side piece of tape under the lume to prevent any issue there. A 600 grit sanding stick ended up being perfect for this task.

jejEb.jpg


Hand is now ~1.0mm tall

jeH15.jpg


The hand hole may close a little or become shaped slightly irregularly during sanding. Vary the direction of sanding to minimize this. Restore and open up the hole a little with a needle if necessary, a couple light taps with a jeweler’s hammer. Alternately if the hole should become too large, it can be pinched closed with strong tweezers, working your way around the circle. Finally, if necessary a tiny drop of locktite or GS Hypo cement can be dropped into the collar hole for semi-permanent adhering.

Ending distance from center wheel to underside of second hand hole surround on my sample was ~5.0mm.

jiyLE.jpg


The other way to do this is to shorten the center wheel pinion. You CAN just snip it off a bit with some nail clippers, press your hand on and go. I consider this to be a little crude and prefer to do it more carefully and professionally, but hey it’s your watch. If done the crude way at least turn your movement upside down so debris doesn’t fall into your dial or your movement. Or you can wrap some saran wrap around the center posts. Or use a dry lens wipe with a tiny hole cut out in the middle.

The center wheel is a delicate component so it should be treated carefully.

jeYoP.jpg


A safe way to trim it and finish it nicely is to use a staking plate. Find the smallest hole that the pinion leaves fit in and press some rodico up underneath it to protect the bottom tip of the pinion.

jeLPE.jpg


Snip off about .5mm or more if needed based on how much you need to lower the hand.

jehgt.jpg


jeU53.jpg


Now the pinion top can be sanded and rounded nicely. The 600 grit sanding stick worked fine here as well. Clean it up and reinstall to the watch.

jee0n.jpg


Always be very careful pressing a second hand. The bottom tip of the pinion sits in a jewel under the mainplate and too much pressing force on the hand can snap that pinion bottom or crack the jewel (ask me how I know, lol).

That’s it, happy modding!
 
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Duc

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Well this is brilliant and exactly what I (and others) needed.

Can’t wait to get that new crystal on my GMT. THANKS!
 
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tripdog

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I trim my second hand posts with a Dremel and an 80 grit drum, but that's just me.
 
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KJ2020

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I trim my second hand posts with a Dremel and an 80 grit drum, but that's just me.

This must be the best way if you do it this way bro. Any tips on holding the center wheel while trimming it? Staking plate method look OK? Or were you referring to the hand itself?
 

tripdog

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This must be the best way if you do it this way bro. Any tips on holding the center wheel while trimming it? Staking plate method look OK? Or were you referring to the hand itself?

I was referring to the second hand, but I don't really use an 80 grit drum, that would be crazy . . .
 

Vvvlllooo

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Crazy and very detailed mod, nice work as always brother..game of mm
 

Nivka

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Great mod to fix one of, if not the, biggest problem with the gmf gmt! Thank you.

Modding always looks so much easier when there’s blown up pics to guide you lol
 
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Hinclimincli

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I've just read this as I have the exact same problem trying to install ARF hands on my Ginault. Extremely useful indeed, thanks a lot KJ2020 !!!

​​​​​
 
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KJ2020

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I've just read this as I have the exact same problem trying to install ARF hands on my Ginault. Extremely useful indeed, thanks a lot KJ2020 !!!

​​​​​

Getting ready to do another one myself - here's a good additional precaution. To keep sanding dust from getting underneath the hand hole surround, put a pin hole in a piece of plastic and pull it over the hole collar. Wish I could add this to the original post, but can't edit anymore. If doing larger hands you can also press a tiny bit of Rodico in the hole to block out dust.

jg62P.jpg
 
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EnryDJ36

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Getting ready to do another one myself - here's a good additional precaution. To keep sanding dust from getting underneath the hand hole surround, put a pin hole in a piece of plastic and pull it over the hole collar. Wish I could add this to the original post, but can't edit anymore. If doing larger hands you can also press a tiny bit of Rodico in the hole to block out dust.

jg62P.jpg
I used your explanation to shorten the seconds hand that was too high for my GMT 1675. Perfect, excellent explanation and very practical and useful advice!!
 
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Artyfowl

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Superb thread thank you @KJ2020

Any idiot proof tips for replacing the hand stack? I can get them off ok with levers and dial protection.

I also have a set of manual hand pressers but I’ve only done it once on an AP and hated doing it. I never felt I had film control of how far down I was pushing the hands. Can they all go down too far? Or are they physically set to max out and be ok?
 

neon_7

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I was planning on trimming the centre wheel but did the hands instead. Seems daunting but actually quite simple. 600 grit sand paper does the job perfect.

I used a staking block to lie the hand on.

Bracelet tap underneath the hand and then rodico on both ends of the hand to keep it in place.

Then, using the 600 grit sand block, gentle push in one direction swapping over after every 20 brushes. Takes a while to get it sanded down a whole 0.5mm but result works fantastic.

Finally, I also had to tighten the collet of the seconds hand to make sure the hand stays pressed in deeply just over the minutes hand. Otherwise, over time, the seconds hand would have loosened back up a little. Every 0.1mm counts with this one.

Thank you @KJ2020 - you’re truly a master modder!
 
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KJ2020

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Superb thread thank you @KJ2020

Any idiot proof tips for replacing the hand stack? I can get them off ok with levers and dial protection.

I also have a set of manual hand pressers but I’ve only done it once on an AP and hated doing it. I never felt I had film control of how far down I was pushing the hands. Can they all go down too far? Or are they physically set to max out and be ok?
Sorry just saw this. Pressing hands on a GMT can indeed be a pain, both in getting all the hands aligned rotationally with hour/minute markers and vertically with each other.

In general, hour and second hands can be pressed too far. GMT and minute hands usually not.

You do have to be extra cautious about the bottom hand. If it's a GMT hand (ICHS), the hand usually needs to be bent upward so it clears the hour markers. This snowballs into the rest of the hands often needing to be lifted slightly to miss the hand beneath it. If the bottom hand is the hour hand (CHS) it can sometimes be pressed too far down which can result in dial scraping.

35BVML.jpg


Best to practice on a junk dial with junk hands a few times. I started using manual hand presses too but it's so much easier with a little bench pressing tool, there is just no comparison. Cheaper ones can be found on AliX, some with multiple plungers.


For second hands, using tape and a plastic holder is great to position the hand over the pinion. The plunger tip helps stabilize the hole surround and moving the hand in tiny increments is possible.

KCt3ik.jpeg


KCtZwY.jpeg


In one extreme scenario, I had to add a modified hole surround from another hand to fit the hour wheel and act as a height booster to elevate the hour hand and keep it from scraping the dial.

35BrEI.jpg


35B8r4.jpg


35B6ej.jpg


35B9S1.jpg


Note the hour hand is also slightly angled up at the tip.

3lm49L.jpg


3lmMMR.jpg
 
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