Franken 16234 Transitional Rolex Datejust Transitional Pics and Q's

[Patek570fan]

I ended up here after looking into building a gen from parts and then stumbled across @pompompurin 's excellent franken DJ threads. Thanks for the inspiration!
After reading and re-reading countless threads and arming myself with some tools here's what I landed on: a late 80's transitional build (drilled lugs and open 6 & 9 datewheel)
- Raffles 2836 case - got the lugs drilled / smoothed off all edges / removed the "OG POFY" and the "18k" with a polishing stone / aged the case a tad
- ETA 2836 new from Switzerland - $ ouch but wanted this to last.
- Riyi/Raffles Open 6 and 9 datewheel overlay (DWO)
- Gen Dial from Ebay from reputable dealer, starting to turn champagne
- Gen 603 Crown from another forum
- Tudor Handset from Clarks
- Movement ring #2 from riyi/raffles
- Extra dial spacer ring for DWO clearance
- 24g x 1/8" Brass and 28g x 1/8" Bronze strip wire for movement spacer shims - more on that later

This got pricey haha I almost sprung for a gen bezel but that would've put this project into a ridiculous price category. These projects suck you in. This has been a challenge and I've been working on it for months and I'm still not quite done.

The build so far:

Tips:
- Two dial spacer rings (one snipped so it can expand and fit over the first one) are perfect for DWO clearance (Credit to Pompompurin)
- Use the case clamps upside down on these 2836 builds
- Elevate your workspace when putting on the hands, I used a shoebox on top of my desk
- The Spyderco "Tri-Angle Sharpening Stone Ultra Fine" is perfect for taking off the rough and sharp edges on a case without taking off to much.

The issues:
- So my dial BARELY fits the rehaut. I mean if you nudge it it falls through. I bought a second case and had the same problem. this wouldnt be an issue, except:
- The movement ring still leaves a gap of about 0.5 mm between it and the case! The dial/movement combo just slides around. I tried to resolve this by adding some shims as you can see, but it's still not quite perfect. I tried a ring of strip wire all the way around but that made it to tight and nearly impossible to remove, I would not recommend that method. The 4 pieces I have in now can be removed with patience and tweezers.
- Hands - I'm pretty sure I have a H4 pinion set since its a stock 2836 but its still not tall enough, the indices are pretty tall and I'm having to angle the minute and second hands up to get them to clear. I think a H5 pinion set is to tall? I could go with the longer post handset from raffles, but then they're not long enough.
- Minor gripe: The crown screwed in is upside down I tried to see if I could get it to catch a different thread but that didnt work.

I'm pretty tempted to part this build out and start over with a Korean case and a different movement.
Any tips for this noob?

 

[Perpetual]

If you go Korean case use 2824 movement, much better clearance for DWO but you'll need to install h4 Pinon set.

See my build here using this method

84" DateJust franken build

Hello repizins! Sneak peek at my second build of an 1984 rolex datejust stay tuned!

forum.replica-watch.info

Or use the Korean case and fit vs3135 movement with light modifications

Franken Rolex Datejust build with VS 3135

Some years ago, my Datejust 1603 was stolen. I got this watch from my father, who got it from his father. So it was a bit more than just a watch to me and I decided this year to get a similar Datejust. After searching here at the forum, I found that it is not that difficult to create a Rolex...

forum.replica-watch.info

Good luck hope this helps

 

[pompompurin]

Raffles 2836 case

- So my dial BARELY fits the rehaut. I mean if you nudge it it falls through. I bought a second case and had the same problem. this wouldnt be an issue, except:
- The movement ring still leaves a gap of about 0.5 mm between it and the case! The dial/movement combo just slides around. I tried to resolve this by adding some shims as you can see, but it's still not quite perfect. I tried a ring of strip wire all the way around but that made it to tight and nearly impossible to remove, I would not recommend that method. The 4 pieces I have in now can be removed with patience and tweezers

Which Raffles 2836-2 case did you buy?

Raffles sells two major types of 2836-2 datejust case:
1. Typical 2836-2 case for 28.0mm dials = https://rafflesdials.com/rolex-sign...t-with-date-wheel-overlay-and-dial-in-28-0mm/
2. Special 2836-2 case for 28.5-29.5mm dials = https://rafflesdials.com/rolex-sign...2836-movement-with-date-or-day-wheel-overlay/

It is better to use typical type 1 case for Datejust builds. I think you bought Type 2 case because your dial is nearly falling through the wider rehaut.

The type 1 case comes with a well-fitted brass movement ring, while the type 2 case comes with a nylon/ plastic movement ring.

- Hands - I'm pretty sure I have a H4 pinion set since its a stock 2836 but its still not tall enough, the indices are pretty tall and I'm having to angle the minute and second hands up to get them to clear. I think a H5 pinion set is to tall? I could go with the longer post handset from raffles, but then they're not long enough

From my observation, 2836-2 mostly come with H3 wheels/ cannon pinion, although I think some did come with H4 wheels/ cannon pinion. In my opinion, you should leave the hands slightly bent as it is not worth the extra hassle to swap the wheels/ cannon pinion. Changing the seconds wheel in a 2824-2/ 2836-2 is a tricky task that can screw up quickly.

If you plan to upgrade to Korean 16200 case, I highly recommend using a VS3135 movement with gen hands (or maybe you can settle for Clarks 3135 datejust hands). The VS3135 movement is straightforward to assemble.

- Minor gripe: The crown screwed in is upside down I tried to see if I could get it to catch a different thread but that didnt work.

Unless you have OCD for this aspect, not even all gen Rolex have crowns that faces upwards. This has not been a factory requirement for gen Rolex.

 

[Patek570fan]

Which Raffles 2836-2 case did you buy?

Raffles sells two major types of 2836-2 datejust case:
1. Typical 2836-2 case for 28.0mm dials = https://rafflesdials.com/rolex-sign...t-with-date-wheel-overlay-and-dial-in-28-0mm/
2. Special 2836-2 case for 28.5-29.5mm dials = https://rafflesdials.com/rolex-sign...2836-movement-with-date-or-day-wheel-overlay/

It is better to use typical type 1 case for Datejust builds. I think you bought Type 2 case because your dial is nearly falling through the wider rehaut.

The type 1 case comes with a well-fitted brass movement ring, while the type 2 case comes with a nylon/ plastic movement ring.



From my observation, 2836-2 mostly come with H3 wheels/ cannon pinion, although I think some did come with H4 wheels/ cannon pinion. In my opinion, you should leave the hands slightly bent as it is not worth the extra hassle to swap the wheels/ cannon pinion. Changing the seconds wheel in a 2824-2/ 2836-2 is a tricky task that can screw up quickly.

If you plan to upgrade to Korean 16200 case, I highly recommend using a VS3135 movement with gen hands (or maybe you can settle for Clarks 3135 datejust hands). The VS3135 movement is straightforward to assemble.



Unless you have OCD for this aspect, not even all gen Rolex have crowns that faces upwards. This has not been a factory requirement for gen Rolex.

Wow. I bought from Riyi on ebay and I did not realize that the case was larger. Thanks!

 

[TheAmazingMrZ]

We have another thread that might be helpful.


Post in thread '16233 build / Raffles 2824 holes case questions / H4 questions'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/th...-questions-h4-questions.9530763/post-11108763

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Getting a gen 16234 fluted bexel is tough and expensive, but it's a worthy upgrade should you decide to down the road.

 

[TheAmazingMrZ]

Getting a gen 16234 fluted bexel is tough and expensive, but it's a worthy upgrade should you decide to down the road.

Actually they are very easy to find and for less than $200.. Try eBay. And if that’s still out of budget then get an gen engine turned bezel for $70.

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Actually they are very easy to find and for less than $200.. Try eBay. And if that’s still out of budget then get an gen engine turned bezel for $70.

Really? Haven't checked in a while. I know the 1601 and 16014 are easier to find, but that has completely different dimensions to the 16234. Also a lot of ebay listings are third party aftermarket and not made of white gold. I got my 16234 bezel years ago on ebay as well, but took a bit of waiting to find the best deal.

 

[Patek570fan]

Actually they are very easy to find and for less than $200.. Try eBay. And if that’s still out of budget then get an gen engine turned bezel for $70.

MrZ I only saw 1 bezel for a 16234 and it was around $600 . Like Faber said the dimensions are different, the 1601 and 16014 bezels are almost half as tall and thinner. I think someone here did use a 1601 bezel and the crystal sat very proud.
I do like the engine turned bezels but I'm going to go classic here
Thanks for the input!

 

[TheAmazingMrZ]

MrZ I only saw 1 bezel for a 16234 and it was around $600 . Like Faber said the dimensions are different, the 1601 and 16014 bezels are almost half as tall and thinner. I think someone here did use a 1601 bezel and the crystal sat very proud.
I do like the engine turned bezels but I'm going to go classic here
Thanks for the input!

In my opinion I think you’re overthinking this. What’s your objective? To use a sapphire crystal and have that aligned well with the bezel? It’s the gasket height that matters and that can always be trimmed with sandpaper to the desired height. Waterproofness isn’t a concern because it’s the bezel‘s job to squeeze the gasket to form a seal.

I made the below example for you. This is a Raffles case that comes with the more modern higher style bezel. I took that bezel off, sanded down the gasket, and used a vintage bezel. Fits perfectly, no issues.

 

[Patek570fan]

In my opinion I think you’re overthinking this. What’s your objective? To use a sapphire crystal and have that aligned well with the bezel? It’s the gasket height that matters and that can always be trimmed with sandpaper to the desired height. Waterproofness isn’t a concern because it’s the bezel‘s job to squeeze the gasket to form a seal.

I made the below example for you. This is a Raffles case that comes with the more modern higher style bezel. I took that bezel off, sanded down the gasket, and used a vintage bezel. Fits perfectly, no issues.

@TheAmazingMrZ thats awesome, thank you! Would you mind sharing how tall your new bezel is?

 

[TheAmazingMrZ]

@TheAmazingMrZ thats awesome, thank you! Would you mind sharing how tall your new bezel is?

I’m sorry I don’t yet have any calipers to measure but that is on my short list of needed tools (along with a sonic cleaner).

 

[TheAmazingMrZ]

@TheAmazingMrZ thats awesome, thank you! Would you mind sharing how tall your new bezel is?

Here is another example showing the taller gasket and what it looked like after sanding it down (which is literally just rubbing the gasket on a piece of sandpaper). The correct gasket height is 2.3mm so when I eventually upgrade to a better crystal (Clark’s which can be found on eBay) I’ll get the correct height gasket but this will do for now.

Before is the wooden table background.

 

[Perpetual]

Here goes mine for an example, unfolding into an explorer build

Don’t mind the cyclop lens on this domed ginault crystal...it's coming off.
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This is all stock raffles 2836 explorer case set. Except the ginault crystal and a 2.7mm gasket

I like this look its basically a oyster perpetual bubble-back