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ETA 2834-2 Day Date Question

2005 Seadweller

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Hello Members,

I’m working on a day date build , the dial will line up with the 2834-2 movement, from what I see the movement can be used in 2 ways as illustrated in the picture.

The question is what configuration can I use for this project, the blue arrow or the Red .

The Dial will also work with a 2836-2 but both day date wheels have to be swapped, and I don’t want to go that route.

Thanks Ed
 

KJ2020

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The day fonts at the red arrow look both too tall and spread too wide to fit properly in the dial day window. So of those two choices I would go with the blue arrow.

Also be aware that the dial date window is quite narrow. Both those datewheels look like the fonts are narrow enough to fit the date window, but they are not Rolex fonts.

These are Rolex fonts, which are much wider. I was applying epoxy to anchor the dial to the movement holder.

hqSWI1.jpeg


IDK why some dial makers use such narrow date windows, especially on a very late model dial. I had one like that recently that I filed out to be wider. I added a window frame to hide any rough edges.

KbidD8.jpeg


KbiTMR.jpeg


KbrKJI.jpeg
 
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KJ2020

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Those fonts on the included datewheel look the same as the ones installed on the movements - narrow (which is needed for your non gen-spec dial) and not Rolex fonts. You really have no choice but to use them with that dial.

It looks like a dial spacer is provided. You can see dial holes in the spacers at 12 and 42 minutes (ETA positions) in both those samples. However, your kit has a movement holder that the movement sits into and then the dial feet go into the movement holder. So you would not use the dial spacer. The movement holder outer perimeter sits above the daywheel and acts as a spacer.

This arrangement can be a blessing or a curse because the movement then has to be anchored to the movement holder from the other side to keep your hands and day/date wheels aligned with the dial. Often this is done with a second set of movement tabs but it can be cumbersome if the movement's tab screw holes are in the same place as the movement holder's tab screw holes that anchor everything to the case.

Sometimes the movement holder has no separate tab screw holes so you have to use one long tab to do both anchoring tasks. This can become a nuisance because to get the movement into the case you can't have a long tab installed. So you can temp anchor the movement to the movement holder with a short tab, put the movement in the case, then remove the short tabs one at a time and replace them with a long tab to the case. Or, just add a long tab on top of the short tab. But you can't let the movement get loose from the movement holder.

If all this sounds like a royal PITA, it definitely can be. For this reason, I have arrived at a point where I use 4 small rectangles of GSHypo cement to anchor the movement to the movement holder. I just find some places not near any moving parts and apply a thin bead that spans both the movement and the holder.

Whatever method you choose, the two parts need to be solidly anchored together in the correct rotational alignment for day/date wheels and windows BEFORE pressing the hands. After that is done the anchoring cannot be lost or all the alignments will suffer. Or worse, the dial or hands can get scratched (or the hour hand come loose) from the movement pulling away from the dial vertically.

I also put a small blob of GSHypo into the movement holder's dial feet holes before mounting the dial. This keeps it from lifting up accidentally during all these installation tasks.
 
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2005 Seadweller

Active Member
13/1/24
463
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43
Those fonts on the included datewheel look the same as the ones installed on the movements - narrow (which is needed for your non gen-spec dial) and not Rolex fonts. You really have no choice but to use them with that dial.

It looks like a dial spacer is provided. You can see dial holes in the spacers at 12 and 42 minutes (ETA positions) in both those samples. However, your kit has a movement holder that the movement sits into and then the dial feet go into the movement holder. So you would not use the dial spacer. The movement holder outer perimeter sits above the daywheel and acts as a spacer.

This arrangement can be a blessing or a curse because the movement then has to be anchored to the movement holder from the other side to keep your hands and day/date wheels aligned with the dial. Often this is done with a second set of movement tabs but it can be cumbersome if the movement's tab screw holes are in the same place as the movement holder's tab screw holes that anchor everything to the case.

Sometimes the movement holder has no separate tab screw holes so you have to use one long tab to do both anchoring tasks. This can become a nuisance because to get the movement into the case you can't have a long tab installed. So you can temp anchor the movement to the movement holder with a short tab, put the movement in the case, then remove the short tabs one at a time and replace them with a long tab to the case. Or, just add a long tab on top of the short tab. But you can't let the movement get loose from the movement holder.

If all this sounds like a royal PITA, it definitely can be. For this reason, I have arrived at a point where I use 4 small rectangles of GSHypo cement to anchor the movement to the movement holder. I just find some places not near any moving parts and apply a thin bead that spans both the movement and the holder.

Whatever method you choose, the two parts need to be solidly anchored together in the correct rotational alignment for day/date wheels and windows BEFORE pressing the hands. After that is done the anchoring cannot be lost or all the alignments will suffer. Or worse, the dial or hands can get scratched (or the hour hand come loose) from the movement pulling away from the dial vertically.
Wow thanks for the detailed explanation!
I think I will opt for your method , I’m ok with the 2834-2 fonts , I just want it all to work properly 🙏
Thanks again Ed
 
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2005 Seadweller

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This guy built a similar one , but the quality of the video is not good .
I plan to use the dial feet and glue to keep everything aligned ?

 

KJ2020

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Wow thanks for the detailed explanation!
I think I will opt for your method , I’m ok with the 2834-2 fonts , I just want it all to work properly 🙏
Thanks again Ed
You can also use some carefully positioned rectangular dial dots to anchor the movement to the movement holder. This is a similar concept.
It's not as secure IMO but can be a little cleaner if you aren't quick and dexterous with the GSHypo. GSHypo can leave stringers which get messy if you aren't careful, but they are easily removed.
 
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2005 Seadweller

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You can also use some carefully positioned rectangular dial dots to anchor the movement to the movement holder. This is a similar concept.
It's not as secure IMO but can be a little cleaner if you aren't quick and dexterous with the GSHypo. GSHypo can leave stringers which get messy if you aren't careful, but they are easily removed.
I feel the Dial Dots I have , have little adhesive, I think I will use the 3m adhesive that come with the Bezel inserts , I feel it’s a tighter bond than DD.
Thanks again! Can’t wait to start this build 👍🏼
 

KJ2020

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This guy built a similar one , but the quality of the video is not good .
I plan to use the dial feet and glue to keep everything aligned ?

His movement holder has lots of tab screw holes. It looks like he used a second set of tabs to anchor the movement to the movement holder. This is the best way if you have available tab screw holes in other places around the movement holder.

hq0HkF.jpeg
 
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2005 Seadweller

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His movement holder has lots of tab screw holes. It looks like he used a second set of tabs to anchor the movement to the movement holder. This is the best way if you have available tab screw holes in other places around the movement holder.

hq0HkF.jpeg
Interesting will explore that option!
Thanks again!
Ed
 
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KJ2020

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Interesting will explore that option!
Thanks again!
Ed
Heh, looking over that pic again I see that those are dial feet anchor hooks. That would indeed be a viable arrangement. But personally I've never had a movement holder that allowed me to do that. If yours does, try that and see how secure it is.
 
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2005 Seadweller

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Heh, looking over that pic again I see that those are dial feet anchor hooks. That would indeed be a viable arrangement. But personally I've never had a movement holder that allowed me to do that. If yours does, try that and see how secure it is.
Those hooks are to secure the dial feet on the ETA , but in this case , the dial feet go directly into the movement holder .
It’s going to be a challenge!
 

KJ2020

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Those hooks are to secure the dial feet on the ETA , but in this case , the dial feet go directly into the movement holder .
It’s going to be a challenge!
Right, but it looks like he pulled them out to use for support somehow.

I did something similar once, using the dial feet hooks to help anchor the movement to the movement holder. I drilled some extra holes for some beefy screws. The feet hooks are epoxied in place.

hqbAgv.jpeg


hqb2MK.jpeg


There is always a way, haha.
 
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2005 Seadweller

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Right, but it looks like he pulled them out to use for support somehow.

I did something similar once, using the dial feet hooks to help anchor the movement to the movement holder. I drilled some extra holes for some beefy screws. The feet hooks are epoxied in place.

hqbAgv.jpeg


hqb2MK.jpeg


There is always a way, haha.
Wow those mods are way beyond my watch modding capabilities;) ..
Thanks for all your help !
I think I’m ready for this project!
 
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Hor-Fan

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