Differences on Rolex gen dials - compared on chrono24

[msc1967]

Just by chance I looked on the dials of the Rolex Kermit on chrono24 comparing the lettering of "SWISS MADE". is this usual, that there are so many variants? If I would have a gen, and see such a different lettering, I would ask myself, which one is the fake? ;-)

 

[Feefo]

The Rolex Submariner Kermit: Exploring the 16610LV and its variations

Produced over a brief period of 7 years, the Submariner "50th anniversary" presents different variations of bezels and dials that will have a significant influence on its value and desirability.

www.41watch.com

 

[p0pperini]

is this usual, that there are so many variants?

Yes, it's usual. See the link from Feefo above. Any Rolex model produced over a number of years will go through a range of tweaks and changes. There will be any number of refreshes and design alterations. Sometimes changes occur simply because the hardware used for printing the bezel or dial wears out through repeated use. and sometimes it's just for the sake of change. Then again it can be due to production/producer changes.

 

[msc1967]

Solving the mystery through AI

in the early 2000s, especially around 2003–2004, Rolex sourced dials from several specialized suppliers. This practice led to subtle but highly relevant differences in printing, typography, and finishing—especially important for collectors. The most well-known dial suppliers during this period were:

1. Stern (Stern Créations)​

• One of the most traditional dial manufacturers for Rolex.
• Known for very fine print quality and consistent lacquer finishes.
• Frequently used for classic models like the Datejust and Submariner.

2. Beyerle​

• Less well-known but also a Rolex supplier.
• Differences in typography and text positioning have been documented by collectors.

3. Lemrich​

• Another manufacturer that produced dials for Rolex.
• Especially relevant for models using Super-Luminova.

4. Singer​

• Known for producing dials for the Rolex Daytona, but also involved in other models.
• Characterized by slightly different fonts and printing techniques.

Why this matters:​

These differences are crucial for collectors because they:

• Influence the rarity and originality of a model,
• Provide clues about transitional models,
• And can significantly affect the value of the watch.

My conclusion: It´s not that "one Gen", that the rep collectors need to compare "gen vs. rep"

 

[wtrbrdm]

I'm slowly catching on to the fact that comparing gen / rep, no matter which refs, is deeper than "that font is off" or "that spacing is off". Seems like the more important part is the actual quality and precisionof the parts, engraving, printing, etc. Interesting read on the Kermit...

 

[Feefo]

Fun fact: the Stern dial manufacturers are the same from the Stern family, owners of Patek Philippe.
The Sterns bought Patek in the 1930's. In 1996, they sold Stern Cadrans to a - of all possibilities - Orior Holding, a food and beverage group which focuses on premium convenience foods and beverages (Stern also had a banking business branch that was sold 1988 and is today UBS). Not a good idea. Richemont bought the Stern Group in 2000. Richemont then killed the name in 2016.

 

[Got20Mate]

I'm slowly catching on to the fact that comparing gen / rep, no matter which refs, is deeper than "that font is off" or "that spacing is off". Seems like the more important part is the actual quality and precisionof the parts, engraving, printing, etc. Interesting read on the Kermit...

Spacing is always a big one for me, seemingly something that the rep factories could get really right if they wanted.

 

[wtrbrdm]

Interesting point. I'll say that I've gotten into doing some rep QC comparisons on peoples watches (say on Reddit) with gens. I've definitely seen some gens where I thought the spacing was off..rehaut was a bit off....etc. Even with these slight things being potentially off...the quality is definitely there. The gen pics were on chrono24 and other larger watch sales sites. There do seem to be some definite re vs gen points I've started looking at, like SELs, floating M, clasp nub soldering (or whatever that thing is called...etc. It's like a "where's waldo" for watches.