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Difference Raffles and JMB 1016 Case? Are there original measurements available?

Action_Jensen

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20/4/21
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Hi,
so after beeing fascinated wit the 1016 Explorer for quite some time now and realizing that i probably never own a real one, and even if, would not wear it as a daily (most of you probably know all the reasons) i decided on getting a nice rep.
So at the end of last year i got myself some help for planing and building and am now the proud owner of a really nice 1016 rep. Thanks again to @369mafia for his help and advice (j, i know i promised photos but when i had the time the weather and lighting was so bad i decided to try again some other time but i will post some in the future :)).

From the get go my budget was somewhat tighter than some of the other builds shown here (i just cant say anything else but WOW! to some of the recent franken builds) so we decided on a raffles case that got modded to take a plexy and a really nice mate MK II dial from rubys.

I am really happy with my new daily and still in somewhat of a honeymoon phase but i am also, as probably a lot of you here in this forum, interestet in gettin as close as possible to the original. I know that i probably should go with a viet case but since that is right now out of reach, availability- and cost wise i would like to do some more case modding on my raffles case.
I am not sure if i am right on that one but i thought in the past i read that the base for JMB are raffles cases?

After studying some (or maybe a lot) of pictures i think for a more original look i think i would have to slim down the flanks and lugs of the raffles case (since it is based on a 16200 DJ) to get a little bit closer to the 1016 look i desire. But i dont feel like i found good enough pictures that i can use as reference for the case. I always feel like most photos are somewhat distorted through the lenses and the angles the photos were shot from.

So my questions now are how to aproach this endevour? Are there some reliable measurements online that i could use? Probably not since there would be more people just cnc ing theirown cases...

Are there usable photos out there?

And when i got some reliable measures, how would i aproach the slimming of the raffles case? what kind of tools do i need? do i polish it down on a wheel or file and grind first? what is the best way to not destroy the compound curve/ cushion on the case flanks?

Maybe some of you have some input or like to take part in this diskussion :)

Thanks in advance

P.S. I am familiar working with a variety of tools and do not have two left hands, its more about a start to aproach the project.
 

369mafia

Resident Explorer Expert
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7/7/15
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Thanks for the kind words and glad that you are getting on well with the 1016 . On your watch in particular I did do some case softening and some shaping , closer to the ends of the lugs , I thinned them slightly but without loosing the factory edge, ( which is common with polished or over polished cases)or well worn examples - the cases almost are smoothed over towards the tip

I had done a side by side comparison between a JMB case set (based off an older raffles case set) and the Ruby case set.

( I had to use google to search for it cause I cant get the search function to work on this site for some reason)
however in my error I didn't take measurements (which I kick myself now for) of the two cases to compare....and in what you are asking for. You will see in the comparison that the JMB case has the more rounded lugs to give the impression of an older worn watch where the Ruby case still retains its crisp edge that I only softened (by request)

But as you see in the thread and pics. there are some differences.

As far as further shaping , I use a Dremel with a grinding stone, sandpaper drum. Hand tools include diamond files, sanding sticks (used for pedicures) and various grits of wet dry sandpaper up to 2000 and then of course polishing wheels with compound for the Dremel .


5e960be6ee5d77b5d3e74d00a5ac1ba5.jpg


depending on where on the case you want to shape and the amount, you could just use hand files, etc but if you are looking to drastically reduce the size for a desired shape, you will want to use the dremel with the stones. Less is always more and keep in mind any deep gouges and grinding marks that you make, it will take 5x + as long to sand them out . doing the first lug is easy, its getting the other 3 to match that is where the challenge begins..

Best of luck , would all be interested in your progress and results.
 
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johnchpark

Active Member
1/12/22
347
327
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South Korea
Thanks for the kind words and glad that you are getting on well with the 1016 . On your watch in particular I did do some case softening and some shaping , closer to the ends of the lugs , I thinned them slightly but without loosing the factory edge, ( which is common with polished or over polished cases)or well worn examples - the cases almost are smoothed over towards the tip

I had done a side by side comparison between a JMB case set (based off an older raffles case set) and the Ruby case set.

( I had to use google to search for it cause I cant get the search function to work on this site for some reason)
however in my error I didn't take measurements (which I kick myself now for) of the two cases to compare....and in what you are asking for. You will see in the comparison that the JMB case has the more rounded lugs to give the impression of an older worn watch where the Ruby case still retains its crisp edge that I only softened (by request)

But as you see in the thread and pics. there are some differences.

As far as further shaping , I use a Dremel with a grinding stone, sandpaper drum. Hand tools include diamond files, sanding sticks (used for pedicures) and various grits of wet dry sandpaper up to 2000 and then of course polishing wheels with compound for the Dremel .


5e960be6ee5d77b5d3e74d00a5ac1ba5.jpg


depending on where on the case you want to shape and the amount, you could just use hand files, etc but if you are looking to drastically reduce the size for a desired shape, you will want to use the dremel with the stones. Less is always more and keep in mind any deep gouges and grinding marks that you make, it will take 5x + as long to sand them out . doing the first lug is easy, its getting the other 3 to match that is where the challenge begins..

Best of luck , would all be interested in your progress and results.

Hi, a bit unrelated but I had a question about shaping case lugs with a dremel.

I want to do a cheap 5513 build using a Rafflesdials 5513 case.

But one thing bothering me is the thick lugs on the Raffles case; makes it look almost a maxi case.

I am wondering how easily I can remove the bezel and shape the lugs using a hand dremel.
I have most dremel heads, including polish/compound. But I haven't actually attempted anything like this, so I'm not sure if it is doable.

Thanks!
 

maccoretti

Getting To Know The Place
15/8/19
35
19
8
Auckland, New Zealand
Hi, a bit unrelated but I had a question about shaping case lugs with a dremel.

I want to do a cheap 5513 build using a Rafflesdials 5513 case.

But one thing bothering me is the thick lugs on the Raffles case; makes it look almost a maxi case.

I am wondering how easily I can remove the bezel and shape the lugs using a hand dremel.
I have most dremel heads, including polish/compound. But I haven't actually attempted anything like this, so I'm not sure if it is doable.

Thanks!
It's totally doable. If the lugs are thick then you have meat to play with!

Be careful not to dig holes with the dremel - polish flat sides with flat surfaces otherwise you'll get a wavy reflection.
I find it's best to mount your polisher to something first.