Detached rotor on A2836 movement

[semiregularguy]

Hello, I recently received my first RW. I ordered from puretime— a JF with an A2836 movement. When the watch arrived I immediately noticed a loud sound when tilting the watch like a marble rolling about inside it. I hope I’m using the correct terminology...

I removed the caseback and saw that the rotor and attached gears and plate (?) were detached and sliding around in the movement. I’ve attached photos.

After carefully removing it I tested the movement and was able to manually wind it, set the time date and GMT hand, and it appears to keep time. I have yet to see how long it will run.

I can only assume the movement is missing some screws otherwise how would this piece attach to the rest of the movement? If so, how can I go about finding screws that fit and attaching the rotor piece?

If the screws were never present, how could this have passed QC? What should I have done differently to prevent this?

I am hoping to learn from this experience. I appreciate any help!

 

[Specter1000]

There are 2 screws missing. The complete autowind mechanism is loose. Not sure why...hopefully they are not lodged 'inside' the movement. The movement will work just fine without the autowind mech...it will just be manual wind.

You could fix it yourself or send it to someone for repair. It is rather easy, you just need to make sure the autowind gears mesh properly with the barrel ratchet wheel. The 2 missing screws are unique and are usually black, but not always. I believe the ETA 2836 part numbers for those screws are 901. I'm sure someone has extras here on RWI that could possibly even send you...I would have to check my parts bin...

I would lift it out until you have a chance to have it fixed.

 

[Rx4Time]

Yep, your missing screws. Did they by chance fall out then you opened the case back? It's doubtful they were missing, more likely loose and fell off in transit.

 

[semiregularguy]

Thank you both for the prompt replies! I hoped the screws had simply detached and were floating around inside the movement but to the best of my knowledge they are simply missing. I didn’t feel confident enough to disassemble the movement to search for the screws, though if you suggest that I can learn more about how to do it correctly. I cannot see or hear any loose screws in the movement, and I was very diligent in disassembling it so I don’t believe any screws fell out inadvertently.

If fixing my watch is as simple as correctly placing the autowind mechanism and screwing it down I would love to give it a try. If anyone has a couple screws may I please purchase them from you so I may repair my watch? My sincere appreciation!

 

[Specter1000]

send me a PM, will see if I have extras...no charge.

You set the complete autowind mech on...line up both screw holes...then slowly turn the rotor while GENTLY pushing down to seat the mech and make sure the autowind gears mesh with the ratchet wheel. I usually use pegwood to gently push while rotating rotor...but you could do the same with a toothpick. Once it is seated correctly, drop in both screws and tighten...it would be good to keep slight pressure on the mech to make sure it doesn't pop off while you are securing the screws.

 

[Specter1000]

On the underside of the autowind mech you will see a large screw head sticking out...that screw head drops in hole on the movement next to one of the screw holes...that is how you know you have it aligned properly.

 

[Specter1000]

I bet they were adjusting timing, which is better done with auto bridge off...probably did not tighten down once completed.

 

[semiregularguy]

I’ve since noticed that the watch runs slow by about 6 minutes per day (minutes, not seconds).

Should I try adjusting the regulation screw or leave it alone with the expectation that the accuracy will improve once the autowind mechanism is attached?

Lastly as an update, the seller of the watch, Puretime, would only offer a $30 credit toward the purchase of a different watch. Is that normal? How should I ask the consumer feel about this? I received something that was broken and the suggestion resolution from the seller is to buy another watch from them for $30 off. But this isn’t any regular product, I get that.

 

[Specter1000]

hmmmm....'how should I as the consumer feel about this?"....well, let's first ask how you feel about knowingly purchasing illicit counterfeit watches...

 

[semiregularguy]

That’s exactly what I’m asking. And you answered my question perfectly. I get it now. Buyer beware, seller will not or cannot insure packages, expect to have to make repairs given the uncertain nature of shipping.

 

[J!m1]

This is an easy repair, as stated above.

The screws are large (by watch standards) and the only place they could "hide" would be in the balance wheel. If the watch runs, they are certainly not in there.

Regarding regulation: this is not something you should mess with without having it on a timegrapher. If you inadvertently adjust the hairspring stud and take it out of beat, you will never get it to run correctly. Don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing and have the tools to do it. Live with it, or send it to someone for a full service and regulation. Since the winding bridge screws are missing, I'm reasonably certain the movement has not been lubricated either. Running it "dry" you should expect a year or less from it. It'll then be good for 5-10 years without worry once properly serviced and regulated.

 

[bc1221]

First thing you need to do is hack the bridge and remove the 1 screw holding all of that in place and set the auto winding module aside. Then remove all of the power in the mainspring. This is pretty easy but you have to be careful.

Push the crown in to the winding position. Then turn it forward to winding. You will see a little lever move on the crown wheel, holding in to place after you wind. You get a toothpick or some thing that will hold that click spring back. Now, hold the crown and wind it forward to move the click spring back and hold it in to position with the toothpick or small screw driver. Whatever you decided to use to hold it in place. Hold the crown and the click spring back and slowly loosen your grip on the crown. It will start trying to turn on its own but you don’t want to let that crown just spin. If it’s already off and not running, there’s no need to do that.

Put it back in to the hacking position. Then gently shake it and see if you hear any rattling inside. I always hold it face up and move it up and down. Loose screws rattling in it will be pretty loud.

If there is and it’s losing that much time, I would just replace the movement tbh. If it’s losing time and there definitely is some loose screws in there, the balance spring is most likely bent or a screw is stuck in it or getting stuck and unstuck and repeating that process over and over.

You can just buy a balance cock with the balance wheel complete but you would have to adjust it. It’s not too hard but it’s not easy either. You just need a Timegrapher and a lot of patience.

You can buy the $20 app called Timegrapher. I think it works pretty well. I’ve had good results with it. It just takes shit ton of time and patience to get everything as close as possible.

Tip if you get the app and use it.
Put the watch on a thick towel with the case back open and movement running. Use your phone’s external mic and put it over the balance wheel. Put a cup over it so you don’t get any background noise. That app picks up pretty much any sound around you. Wait a while. Adjust. Wait. Adjust. Over and over again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[semiregularguy]

Thanks to all of you for your replies and help. I was able to get the movement repaired and it’s running, although it’s still running about 6 minutes too fast each day. A friend suggested it may be magnetized, so I ordered a degaussing machine (demagnetizer) and am going to try that first. I also ordered another rep VSF seamaster