Clone ETA 2824: Minute hand fitment

[HSV726]

Hi

I am trying to fit a set of hands to an eta 2824 clone movement.

The hour hand went on ok

I cannot get the minute hand on as it looks like the round piece that the hand attaches to is too large in terms of outside diameter

I tried a couple of sets of hands and the issue persisted, I have used the same manufacturer hands on a gen ETA and they went on fine.

I’m just wondering the best way to move forward, would broaching the hand be an option? It’s not something be done before and looking at it my concern here is will I have to remove so much material that the collar on the hand will be removed completely and I’ll struggle to align it correctly I’ve put a pic below to show they type of hand I’ll be using



From what I read the hand should have a hole of 0.9mm am I right in thinking that I should be looking for a broach larger than this?

I have also put a picture below of the movement in case I am missing something obvious



Thanks in advance

 

[ward1991]

Interested to see whats going here, I have done plenty of work on 2824s and 2836s over the years, I have not seen this before, you already tested other handsets so that rules out the hands being the issue. Where did the movement come from?

 

[KJ2020]

You are correct about the hole size

2836/24 hand size 90/150/25

Broaching is the usual option for this issue. If you lose some or all of the hole collar while achieving the .90mm hole, you can probably still mount and use the hand. I would take care not to make the hole larger than absolutely necessary.

I have on several occasions had to repair hands collars that separated from the hand. So this is a potential solution if you destroy the collar. You can use loctite to re-adhere a hand collar, one taken from another hand for example.

 

[HSV726]

I bought it from a fellow forum member, no other details other than it came out of a Patek rep, in fact the stem still had the Patek style crown attached

 

[HSV726]

Many thanks appreciate you posting the pictures my plan was to move a small amount of material each time and test fit along the way hopefully this should result in a snug fit

Hand holding tool

Broaches


Selected the above 2 products do you think the hand holding tool is useful ?

 

[KJ2020]

Many thanks appreciate you posting the pictures my plan was to move a small amount of material each time and test fit along the way hopefully this should result in a snug fit

Hand holding tool

Broaches


Selected the above 2 products do you think the hand holding tool is useful ?

I just use a little staking plate or even hold the hand between fingers, haha. But yeah the hands tweezers look OK.

Polish watch hands DIY

Broaching a second hand

 

[Winni1611]

Had to do this several Times on hands. They do not always fit properly. Broaching solved the problem all the time. When you put the hand on the broach first time Mark how deep it goes. Then just screw it a small amount deaper. Do it slowly and in very little steps until the hand fiits.

 

[HSV726]

Thanks again, I pushed the boat out and ordered the Bergeon broaches, should be arriving tomorrow I’ll report back on how I get on

 

[HSV726]

Just to update, my broaches arrived earlier today, I used the 0.89 to open up the hole. I tested on a spare hand and went a bit far so the hand was too loose, i the tried another hand and just a few mm further back up the broach resulted in a good fit, I then marked the position and then ran the hand for this build up to the point.

Another problem has arisen, essentially it’s the hand stack spacing, with the dial in place the hour and minute hand were touching. I noticed that the hour hand still had some distance to go to seat correctly however pushing it all the way down resulted in it hitting the dial.

Lots of backwards and forwards but I ended up removing both dial feet and the spacer ring. I have attached the dial directly to the movement with dial dots which is something I really wanted to avoid.

I looked at the dial and movement side on and there did appear to be sufficient space for the date wheel to rotate without hitting the back of the dial but do you think I will run into issues down the line ?

Next problem is with the dial in the case, with the movement ring and clamps firmly screwed in the assembly still feels loose and can rotate quite easily would I be right in thinking that this is a result of the dial spacer being removed (essentially thinning the whole assembly) ?

 

[Plaasbaas]

Thanks for the update. Many people start what appears to be an interesting thread only to never provide any clue to how it all ended.

From your first post on I can't shake off the thought that maybe you need a longer size cannon pinion (different height), but I am not the best advisor. Still a beginner myself.

 

[HSV726]

No at all, I’ve had so much good advice on this forum I’m happy to contribute anything no matter how small,

Quick update I flipped case clamps over and the movement is now secure, (perhaps this is the correct way and I originally had them upside down )

Pics below for reference



I’ve put a pic below of the uncut stem to check the height with the stem (just wondering if the lack of dial spacer so we will throw the alignment off) I’m new to the hobby so not sure but it looks fairly central if a little high?

 

[Plaasbaas]

Thanks mate. It does seem a bit off centre but might still work, although forcing the stem a bit.

Do you have enough clearance between the hands now?

 

[Plaasbaas]

I have had a similar problem a while ago, not sure if this helps in your case though:

ARF Datejust with A2824: Attempt at full service but advice needed

Hi everybody, apart from collecting watches, I have developped an interest in being able to understand what's going on inside and like to play around with project watches that need some love. As a complete rookie I would never dare to fiddle around with my favourite ones, at least not yet, too...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[HSV726]

yes the hands all clear one another now,

I read through your thread and the different cannon (H1 - H6) pinions makes sense now, again I'm no expert but agree with that being the issue